The textile colourist

- - THE
  - TEXTILE COLOURIST:
  - A MONTHLY
  - JOURNAL OF BLEACHING, PRINTING, DYEING,
  - AND
  - FINISHING TEXTILE FABRICS,
  - AND THE
  - e
  - -&*
  - J, I— #
  - EDITED BY
  - CHARLES O’NEILL, F.C.S.
  - Author of “ Chemistry of Calico Printing, Bleaching, Dyeing,” &C., Honorary Corresponding Member ofthe Industrial Society of Mulhouse.
  - NÜL. IV.
  - MANCHESTER :
  - PALMER AND HOWE, I, 3, & 5, BOND STREET. London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. Glasgow : PORTEOUS Bros. Bradford: Thomas Brear. New York: John Wiley & Son, 1877.
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- - MANCHESTER :
  - PALMER & HOWE, PRINTERS, 1, 3 AND 5, BOND STREET,
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- - CONTENTS.
  - ----:o:---
  - PAGE.
  - Notes upon Aniline Black. By M. G. Witz.............. i
  - Microscopical observations upon the changes which take place in the aniline black mixture during one hundred hours—Volatility of muriate of aniline at ordinary températures—Presence of ammonia in the air giving rise to crystals of salammoniac—Hypothesis of the action of vanadium upon chlorates in the production of aniline black.
  - Note upon the Greening of Aniline Black. By M. F. Lamy. ... 12
  - Contents of a paper dated October 20th, 1876—Chromic acid treat-ment prevents greening—Use of hydrofluosilicic acid with bichromate of potash—Tartrate of aniline preferred to other salts—Greening sup-posed to be owing to deoxidation.
  - Further Note upon the Greening of Aniline Black. By M. F. Lamy.
  - Proportions of materials to be used for treating aniline black—Tartrate of aniline the préférable sait for black.
  - Notes from Mulhouse ............................................ 17
  - Acids as aiding the solntion of gum tragacanth— Sulpholeic acids or sulphated oils.
  - Coloured Discharges on Dip-blue ................................ 19
  - Note from M. Depierre upon—Richards’ improvements in.
  - Upon Silk Printing ............................................. 20
  - Continuation of extracts from Koeppelin’s work—Bleaching—Madder colours—Printing, cleansing, and dyeing—Action of bran in cleansing and clearing—Prussian blue styles.
  - Abridgments of Spécifications of Patents ........................ 25
  - Magner, for giving a silky appearance to vegetable fibres—Moulton, for engraving apparatus—Croysdale, for apparatus employed in indigo dyeing—Cross, improvements in singeing fabrics—Rogers, for cleansing woollen cloths for dyeing — Gaudchaux, for separating animal and vegetable fibres by means of acids-—Knowles, for conditioning and age-ing fabrics — Dreyfus, for improvements in dyeing and printing — Dewhurst, for methods of embossing, etc., fabrics—Brochocki, for substances to be used in bleaching—Wilson and Cant, for improvements in the manufacture of aniline dyes.
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- - vi.
  - CONTENTS.
  - PAGE.
  - British and Foreign Patents.......................................... 40
  - Titles of new applications, of patents in progress, completed, and void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, May 25th to June 22nd, 1877. For names and subjects see index.
  - New Colouring Matters from Anthracene. By M. Maurice Prudhomme ........................................................... 47
  - Action of glycérine and sulphuric acid upon alizarine and nitro-alizarine—Colouring matter similar to logwood.
  - Ageing or Mastering Logwood for Dyeing............................... 50
  - Ordinary and quick method by use of glue water.
  - On Chrysoline: A New Yellow Colouring Matter derived from Resorcine. By Frédéric ........................................ 51
  - Benzylresorcine, acting upon, by chloride of benzyl. Silk Printing 53
  - Continuation of extracts from Koeppelin—Discharges upon Prussian blue—Styles from the red woods—Styles from gall-nuts—Buff styles from oxide of iron—Indigo and nitric acid styles—Fatty resist—Indigo vat for silk—Indigo styles—Cochineal styles.
  - Upon a New Colouring Matter. By A. W. Hoffmann....................... 65
  - Obtained by the action of diazobenzol upon sulphonaphthalic acid.
  - Notes from Mulhouse ........................................ 67
  - Green from salts of chromium.
  - Note upon the Treatment and Dyeing of Textile Matters. By E. Durwell 69
  - Textile materials—Wool and hair—Bleaching of wool—Dyeing of wool—Silk and wild silk—Treatment of silk before dyeing—Cotton, flax, and hemp—Mixed silk and cotton goods—Aniline colours.
  - New Work on the Sizing of Cotton Goods............................... 78
  - Notice of Mr. Thomson’s work—Use of waxy matters in warp sizing. Testing Flavine for Turmeric 80
  - By dyeing cotton in the mixture.
  - Abridgments of Spécifications of Patents ........................... 80
  - Lake, for treating threads and fabrics with soap and salts—Alexander, for destruction of vegetable fibres in wool—Ashwell, for improvements in dyeing hosiery goods—Butler, for treating vegetable fibres with strong nitric acid—Rydill, for dyeing a yellow on dark woollen goods by nitric acid, etc.—Fulton, for engraving printing rollers—Wise, for machinery for drying yarn—Wilson, for finishing cotton fabrics—Girard and others, for obtaining colouring matters.
  - British and Foreign Patents.................................................. 106
  - Titles of new applications, of patents in progress, completed, and
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- - CONTENTS.
  - vii.
  - PAGE.
  - void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, June 26th to July
  - 2oth, 1877. For names and subjects see index.
  - Notes upon Aniline Black. By M. G. Witz .......................... 109
  - The Chemical properties of aniline black resulting from oxidation by means of chlorates—Behaviour of the colour to acids, alkalies, oxidizing and reducing agents, etc.
  - Paragraphs........................................................ 140
  - Educts from barwood—Rouen Industrial Society.
  - Abridgments of Spécifications of Patents ......................... 141
  - Crawford, for bleaching and dyeing yams—Birch, for improvements in squeezing machines — Cooper, for finishing velvets—Ashcroft, for construction of bleaching kiers—Gedge, for coal-tar treatments—Birch, for opening and spreading machinery—Tongue, for colouring matters from coal— Chadwick (Harley), for improvements in printing.
  - British and Foreign Patents......................................... 151
  - Titles of new applications, of patents in progress, completed, and void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, July 24th to August 24th, 1877. For- names and subjects see index.
  - Loss and Recovery of Indigo from Vats............................... 155
  - Ferron’s experiments shew that there is no appréciable amount of indigo left after dyeing—Tantin’s experiments on the same materials shew about 4 per cent, indigo left—Underwood’s remarks.
  - Materials for a History of Textile Colouring, No. 7................. 158
  - Nitrate of tin, or dyers’ aquafortis as described by Parkes in 1810— Quality of nitric acid proper for dissolving tin—Préparation of nitrate of
  - tin as carried on in 1875—Phenomena attending the solution of tin in nitric acid.
  - Upon Siik Printing ................................................ 165 Continuation of extracts from Koeppelin’s work—Styles derived from archil—Application of aniline colours—Conclusion.
  - Note upon the Collection of Designs at Peel Park, Salford.......... 169
  - Dates at which certain styles appear in this collection, ranging from 1769 to 1850.
  - Indigo Testing by Hydrosulphite of Soda............................ 171 Muller’s description of the method—Goppelsroder’s report upon the process.
  - De Vinant on Dyeing, Printing, and Bleaching....................... 176
  - Continuation of extracts from this work—Printing and dyeing on silk —Wool and delaine printing and steaming—Chocolaté colours—Red Colours—Steam colours on cotton—Broquette’s animalizing process—
  - Black colours on calico—Chocolatés—Blues—Greens—Resists for blue —Finishing steam colours—Spirit colours—Various discharges on coloured grounds—Methyl green on woollen yarn.
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- - viii.
  - CONTENTS.
  - PAGE.
  - Note upon the Prussiates of Aniline. By M. Wehrlin................ 187
  - Cordillot’s aniline black—Camille Koechlin’s black—Ferrocyanide of aniline—Ferricyanide of aniline.
  - Note upon the Prussiate of Aniline. By M. E. Schlumberger... 190 Préparation of ferrocyanide of aniline and its application for steam black—Brandt’s report upon the two papers.
  - Collected Receipts................................................ 193
  - Colours for woollen and mixed goods—Delaines—Chocolaté colours —Brown colours.
  - British and Foreign Patents....................................... 196
  - Titles of new applications, patents in progress, completed, and void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, August 28th to September 28th, 1877. For names and subjects see index. Testing of Indigo. By M. V. Tantin 201
  - By comparison of the depth of colour of sulphuric solutions—Use of an improved form of colorimeter—Table of the selling price and real value of samples of indigo.
  - Materials for a History of Textile Colouring, No. 8 .............. 207
  - The introduction of chloring by machine—Royet and Steinbach’s paper claiming the discovery of the process in 1846-47—Penot’s report upon the paper—Henri A. Koechlin’s process, using acids instead of heat to effect the bleaching—Royet’s report upon the paper.
  - Collected Receipts ............................................. 217 Receipts for delaine colours—Dark grey—Pearl grey—Cocoa brown —Blues—Crimson—Pinks—Reds—S carlet — Greens—Buff — Y ellow— Orange.
  - De Vinant on Dyeing, Printing, and Bleaching...................... 221
  - Discharge colours on Turkey red—Discharge on madder purple— Catechu brown resists—Green and blue colours with indigo basis—Fast green—Precipitated blue—Aniline blue.
  - Abridgments of Spécifications of Patents ......................... 226
  - Alston and Read, for treating yarns—Johnston, for dyeing, bleaching, etc., yarns—Tracy, for plaiting or folding fabrics—Wilson and Cochrane, for hot-pressing textile fabrics—Byers, for scouring, bleaching, and dyeing yarns—Sumner, for drying yarns, woven fabrics, etc.— Jamieson and Collins, for shrinking textile fabrics—Jackson, for treating aniline colours — Smith and others, for finishing moreens and corded fabrics—Woodcock, for hawking machines for indigo dyeing. British and Foreign Patents 242
  - Titles of new applications, patents in progress, completed, and void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, October 2nd to October 36th, 1877. For names and subjects see index.
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- - CONTENTS. Îx.
  - PAGE.
  - Note upon the Adultération of Ground Madder and Préparations of Madder, such as Flowers of Madder and Garancine 247
  - Practical tests by means of colour of stains given to prepared paper by décoctions of adulterated samples—List of samples of adulterated garancines.
  - Collections of Samples of Madder and its products at Amsterdam 251 Notes upon some of the samples exhibited, abstracted from Dépierre’s account of them.
  - Notes upon the future of Madder: by M. J. Dépierre............. 253
  - Whether madder can still be profitably cultivated or not—Growth of the manufacture of artificial alizarine—Comparison of the values of madder and artificial alizarine—Conditions to be studied by cultivators of madder.
  - Note on the Steaming Apparatus of M. J. Sifferlen ............. 256
  - Description of a cottage arrangement, with a frame upon which the pièces are worked without greys—Prud’homme’s report and comparison with the common French arrangement for steaming.
  - Miscellaneous Extracts......................................... 260
  - Bismarck brown on wool—lodine or methyl green for printing on cotton—Mordant for fixing alkali blue on cotton—Charge of cotton with glucose and dextrin—Prussian blue on wool and silk—Colouring matter from tar—Albumin of commerce.
  - British and Foreign Patents.................................... 262
  - Titles of new applications, patents in progress, completed, and void, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, October 30th to November 23rd, 1877, inclusive. For names and subjects see index.
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- - INDEX,
  - A
  - Acids in chloring, 213
  - ,, on aniline black, 110
  - Acid treatment of fibres, 25, 32
  - Ageing, Knowles, 34
  - Albumin, 262
  - ,, Zingler, 44
  - Alexander, destroying vegetable mat-ters, 83
  - Alizarine, Lalande, 151
  - ,, Dyeing, Miller, 43, 107
  - ,, Simpson, Brook, & Royle, 43
  - ,, versus madder, 253
  - Alkaline reducing agents on aniline black, 134
  - Alkaloids, Casthelaz, 151
  - Alston and Reid, yarns, 108, 153, 226
  - Alumina nitrate, 183
  - Ammonia on aniline black, 112
  - Aniline black, Witz on, 1, 109
  - ,, ,, Brown, (Lightfoot), 41, 42 ,, ,, Clark (Grawitz), 244, 264
  - ,, ,, Lightfoot, 244 ,, ,, Cordillot’s 187 ,, ,, Dreyfus, 35 ,, ,, Greening of, 12, 15 ,, blue, 223 ,, ,, Kinsbourg, 244 ,, colours, Casthelaz, 41 ,, „ Wolff, 43 ,, ,, Jackson, 41, 240 ,, dyes, Butler, 89 ,, ,, Wilson, 39 „ „ Wolff, 197 ,, ,, Leigh, 152 ,, ,, Zingler, 263
  - ,, colours on silk, 167 ,, muriate, observations on, 6
  - ,, prussiates of, 187, 190
  - Animalization of cotton, 75
  - Annatto discharge, orange, 54
  - Anthracene, colours from, 47
  - ,, Cabot, 42
  - Aquafortis dyers, 158
  - Archil in silk printing, 165
  - Armand, linen bleaching, 244
  - Arsenic acid on aniline black, 121
  - Arsenites on aniline black, 139
  - Ashcroft, bleaching kiers, 144
  - Ashwell, dyeing hosiery goods, 85
  - B
  - Barlow, treating wool, 264
  - Barwood, educts from, 140
  - Barthel, scouring textiles, 263
  - Beauregard, drying, 44
  - Beetling fabrics, Connor, 246
  - ,, machines, Smith, 154
  - Benner on adultération of madder, etc., 247
  - Beghin, new black, 197
  - Benzylresorcine, 51
  - Birch, squeezing machines, 142, 153
  - ,, opening and spreading, 107, 146, .265
  - Bismarck brown on wool, 260
  - Bivanadates on aniline black, 120
  - Black, aniline, Witz on, 1, 109
  - ,, colours, Halliday (Grawitz), 244, 263
  - ,, discharge on red, 221
  - ,, on calico, 181
  - ,, on wool, Chalamel, 46
  - ,, new, Beghin, 197
  - ,, Raves, 206
  - Blankets, McBurney, 198
  - Bleaching, Clark (Clement), 196 ,, Imray (Bayle), 196, 244
  - ,, Knab, 41 ,, Wingett, 40 ,, materials, Brochocki, 37, 152, 204
  - ,, of silk, 120
  - Blocks, Scholtz, 198
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  - I
  - ( X
  - Blue colour, Thomas (Girard), 107
  - ,, alkali on cotton, 260
  - ,, colours for delaine, 218
  - ,, discharge on red, 222
  - ,, ,, on silk, 24
  - ,, on calico, 183
  - ,, styles on silk, 61
  - Bouchardat, colouring matters, 41
  - Bousquier, silk scouring, 46
  - Bran for cleansing silk, 22
  - Brandt on prussiate of aniline, 192
  - Brochocki,bleachingmaterials, 37, 152, 244
  - Broquette’s préparé, 181
  - Brown colour, Wachhausen, 106, 151
  - Brown (Lightfoot), 41, 42, 244
  - Browns for delaine, 195, 217
  - Buf for delaine, 220
  - ,, styles on silk, 57
  - Burling, Frézon, 199
  - Butler, aniline dyes, 89
  - ,, vegetable fibres, 87
  - Butterworth, drying cylinders, 246
  - Byers, scouring yarns, 108, 235
  - C
  - Cabot, anthracene, 42
  - Cant, aniline dyes, 39
  - Caro, colouring matter, 107, 243, 262,
  - 263
  - Casthelaz, alkaloids, 151
  - ,, aniline colours, 41
  - Catechu brown resist, 223
  - Cazanave, burring wool, 264
  - Chadwick (Harley), printing, 43, 107, 149
  - Chalamel, black on wool, 46
  - ,, wool dyeing, 263
  - Chlorine and aniline black, 115
  - Chloring by machine, 207, 213
  - Chocolaté colours on silk, 176
  - „ for delaine, 194
  - Chromic acid on aniline black, 14, 121
  - Chromium black, 182
  - ,, chocolaté, 183
  - ,, mordant, 68
  - Chrysaniline, 39
  - Chrysoline, 51
  - Chrystoluidine, 39
  - Clark (Bozzini), printing, 107
  - ,, (Clement), bleaching, 196
  - ,, (Grawitz), black colours, 244
  - ,, (Raulin), wool treatment, 45
  - ,, thread dyeing, 108
  - Cleansing woollens, Rogers, 30
  - Clement, bleaching, 196
  - Clough, wool cleansing, 264
  - Coal tar, Gedge, 146
  - Cochineal styles on silk, 63
  - Cochrane, hot pressing, 46, 154
  - Collected receipts, 193, 217
  - Collineau, colouring matters, 41, 43, 151
  - Collins, yarn treatments, 198, 245
  - ,, aniline black, 140
  - Colorimeter, Sallerons, 202
  - Colouring matters, Tongue, 148
  - ,, ,, Girard, 41, 104
  - ,, ,, Rumpff, 41
  - „ „ Savigny, 41, 43 ,, ,, Caro, 107,243, 262, 263
  - ,, ,, Griess, 243
  - ,, ,, Stanley, 243
  - ,, ,, Hoffmann, 243
  - Connor, beetling fabrics, 246
  - Cooper, velvet finishing, 143
  - Cotton, 75
  - ,, change of into glucose, 260
  - Cotton and silk mixtures, 76
  - Crawford, hank treatments, 141
  - Crimson on silk, 177
  - Crimson for delaine, 218
  - Cross, singeing, 29
  - Croysdale, indigo dyeing, 28
  - Cultivation of madder, 253
  - Cyanides on aniline black, 138
  - D
  - Dargue, yarns and warps, 44
  - David, embossing, 263
  - Dehaitre, enlarging fabrics, 245
  - Delaine colours, 193
  - Delaines, receipts for, 217
  - Dépierre on blue discharging, 19
  - ,, future of madder, 253
  - Dequin, new dye, 152
  - Designs at Peel Park, 169
  - Dewhurst, embossing, etc., 35, 43, 243
  - Dickins, silk yarn dyeing, 153
  - Dicktus, treating woollens, 153
  - Discharges, various, 185
  - ,, on Turkey red, 222
  - Dreyfus, dyeing, etc., 35
  - Drying, Sumner (Tulpin), 44, 153, 238
  - ,, Beauregard, 44
  - ,, Knowles, 264
  - ,, cylinders, Butterworth, 246
  - Dupree (Brown), printing, 107, 152, 197
  - Durancon, Skeins, 45
  - Durwell on dyeing, etc., 69
  - Dyeing apparatus, Gibbs, 197, 198
  - ,, ,, Sauvée, 199
  - ,, machinery, Gibbs, 243
  - ,, yellow, Rydill, 89, 108
  - ,, textiles, Stott, 153
  - Dyes, Dequin, 152
  - Dyeing of wool, 71
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  - E
  - Ehlers, testing cloth, 200
  - Embossing, etc., Dewhurst, 35
  - ,, ,, David, 263
  - ,, „ Vigné, 263
  - Engraving, Moulton’s patent, 26
  - Enlarging fabrics, Dehaitre, 245
  - Enoult, wool treatment, 45
  - F
  - Fast blue colours, 224
  - Fatty salts on fibres, &1
  - Feathers, bleaching, Viol, 152
  - Felted goods, patterns on, 152, 196
  - Feron on indigo recovery, 155
  - Ferrocyanide of aniline, 188, 190
  - Ferrocyanides on aniline black, 138
  - Fibres treated with fatty compounds, 81
  - ,, treating, Magner, 154, 246
  - ,, ,, Wallace, 154
  - Finishing, Short, 246
  - ,, Urquhart, 46, 265
  - ,, Hertzog, 265
  - ,, Wilson, 103
  - ,, Steam colours, 184
  - Fisher, mangling linen, 245
  - Flavine with turmeric, 80
  - Flax, 75
  - Folding fabrics, Tracy, 232
  - Fournier, bleaching, 41
  - Frézon, burling, 199
  - Fulton, engraving rollers, 97
  - G
  - Gall-nut styles on silk, 57
  - Garancine dyeing on silk, 23
  - ,, adultération of, 247
  - Gassing yarns, Manchester, 108
  - Gaudchaux-Picard, unweaving, 32
  - Gedge, coal tar, 146
  - Gibbs’ dyeing apparatus, 197, 198, 243
  - Girard, colouring matters, 41, 104
  - ,, blue colour, 243
  - Goppelsroeder on indigo testing, 174
  - Green discharge, 185
  - ,, on calico, 183, I84
  - ,, for delaine, 219
  - ,, from indigo 223
  - ,, iodine, and methyl, 260
  - Greener, skeins, 265
  - Greening of aniline black, Lamy on, 12
  - Grey colours on delaine, 217
  - Griess, colouring matters, 243
  - H
  - Haggerty, plaiting fabrics, 200
  - Hank treatments, Crawford, 141
  - Harper, suspending fabrics, 44
  - Haubold, skein dyeing, 265
  - Hawking machines, Woodcock, 241
  - Hedtmann and Henkells, plaiting, 200
  - Hemp, 75
  - Herold, printing kerchiefs, 152
  - Hertzog, finishing, 265
  - Hofmann, new colour, 65, 262
  - ,, purple, dyeing with, 77
  - Holliday (Grawitz), black colours, 244,
  - 263
  - Hosiery goods dyeing, 85
  - Hot pressing, Wilson and Cochrane, 46, 154
  - Hunt, plaiting, 154
  - Hydrofluosilicic acid for aniline black, 14, 16
  - Hydrosulphite for indigo testing, 171
  - Hydrosulphites on aniline black, 132
  - Hypochlorites on aniline black, 115
  - Hypophosphites on aniline black, 139
  - Hyposulphites on aniline black, 131
  - I
  - Imbs, silk treating, 46
  - Imray (Bayle), bleaching, 196, 244
  - Indigo blue and green, 224
  - ,, ,, discharges on, 19
  - ,, dyeing, Croysdale’s patent, 28
  - ,, recovery of, 155
  - ,, testing, Muller upon, 171
  - ,, ,, Tantin, 201
  - ,, vat for silk, 60
  - Iodine green on cotton, 260
  - Ireland, printing machines, 198
  - J
  - Jackson, aniline colours, 41, 240
  - Jamieson and Collins, shrinking fabrics, 239
  - Jeannolles' aniline blue, 225
  - Johnson, plaiting fabrics, 200
  - Johnston, treating yarn, 231
  - Jourdan, wool cleansing, 264
  - K
  - Knab, bleaching, 41
  - Kiers, Ashcroft, 144
  - Kinsbourg, aniline blue, 244
  - Kirkham and others, dyeing apparatus, 198
  - Knowles, ageing apparatus, 34 ,, drying apparatus, 264 ,, dyeing vats, 43 ,, and others, wool washing, 199
  - Koechlin, H. A., on chloring, 213
  - L
  - Lake (Garnier), stretching fabrics, 245
  - ,, Salts and soaps on fibres, 80
  - ,, (Zeltner), red colour, 106, 151,
  - 197, 242
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  - s b
  - &
  - N
  - Lake (Zeltner), violet colour, 106, ici, 197, 242
  - Lalande, alizarine, 151
  - ,, purpurin, 197
  - Lamy on greening of aniline black, 12,
  - 15
  - Leigh, aniline dyes, 152
  - Lightfoot, printing and dyeing, 244
  - Lilac discharge, 186
  - Lindsay, finishing, 46
  - Linen bleaching, Armand, 244
  - Logwood, ageing of, 50
  - Lowe, wool cleaning, 199
  - M
  - Macdonald, treating fibres, 200
  - Madder colours for silk, 21
  - ,, products, adultération of, 247
  - ,, ,, exhibition of, 251
  - ,, future of, 253
  - Magner, treating vegetable fibres, 25, 154, 246
  - Manchester, gassing yams, 108
  - Mandarine style on silk, 57
  - Manganèse discharge, 185
  - Mangling, etc., linen, Fisher, 245
  - Mastering logwood, 50
  - Mather, steaming and ageing, 198
  - Mathieu-Plessy on chromium mordant, 68
  - McNaught, wool washing, 245
  - McBurney, blankets, 198
  - Methyl green, 187
  - ,, ,, on cotton, 260
  - Miller, alizarine dyeing, 43, 107
  - ,, dyeing yarns, 108, 265
  - Mixed goods, dyeing of, 76
  - Mordanting, Dewhurst, 43, 243
  - Moreens, finishing, Smith, 154, 199,
  - 241
  - Moulton, engraving, 26
  - Mouzin, red and black colours, 263
  - Mulhouse, notes from, 17
  - Muller, indigo testing, 171
  - Mungall, yarns, 265
  - Munn, warps and yarn, 245
  - Muriate of aniline on aniline black, 111
  - N
  - Naphthaline dyes, Wolff, 197
  - Nawrockie, cloth testing, 200
  - Newton (Lacassaigne), stretching, 154, 200, 246
  - Nitrate of tin, 158
  - Nitric acid styles on silk, 57
  - Nitrites on aniline black, 118
  - Nitrous sulphuric acid on aniline black, 119
  - Nogaret, silk scouring, 46
  - O
  - Oils, sulphated, 19
  - Olive green from chromium, 68
  - Opening and spreading, Birch, 146, 265
  - Orange discharge, 186
  - ,, ,, on Prussian blue, 54
  - ,, for delaine, 221
  - Oxidizing agents for aniline black, 113
  - P
  - Parkes on nitrate of tin, 158
  - Paty, yarn treatments, 198
  - Peel Park collection, 169
  - Pendlebury, bleaching, 152
  - Penot’s report on chloring, 211
  - Permanganates on aniline black, 120
  - Peroxide of hydrogen on aniline black, 120
  - Photographie designs, Win ter, 196,197, 264
  - Pink on calico, 184
  - ,, for delaine, 219
  - ,, discharge, 186
  - Pirard, plaiting fabrics, 200
  - Plantrou, scouring fibres, 40, 152, 196
  - Plaiting fabrics, Haggerty, 200
  - ,, ,, Pirard, 200
  - ,, ,, Hedtmann, 200
  - ,, ,, Hunt, 154
  - ,, ,, Wilson, 200, 245, 246
  - ,, ,, Johnson, 200
  - ,, and folding, Rath, 46, 245
  - Prat, spiral oid tenter, 44
  - Precipitated blue, 223
  - Printing machines, Ireland, 198
  - ,, kerchiefs, Herold, 152
  - ,, Clark (Bozzini), 107
  - ,, Chadwick (Harley), 43, 107, 149
  - ,, Morgan-Brown (Dupree), 107,
  - 152, 197
  - Prudhomme, colours from anthracene, 47
  - Prussiates of aniline, 187, 190
  - Prussian blue styles on silk, 24, 54
  - ,, ,, Bang’s patent, 261
  - Purple discharge, 186
  - ,, discharges on, 222
  - Purpurine, Lalande, 197
  - R
  - Rath, plaiting and folding, 46, 245
  - Rau, dyeing silks, 152
  - Raves, black, 206
  - Receipts, collected, 193, 217
  - Red discharge, 185
  - ,, for delaine, 219
  - ,, on calico, 184
  - ,, wood styles on silk, 55
  - ,, colour, Lake, (Zeltner), 106, 151,
  - 197
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- - 3
  - 3 83
  - N
  - xv.
  - Red and black colours, Mouzin, 263
  - Reducing agents on aniline black, 127
  - Resist for blue, 183
  - ,, for catechu, 223
  - Reverdin on chrysoline, 51
  - Richards on blue discharging, 20
  - Rochette, wool washing, 45, 153, 244, 264
  - Rogers, cleansing woollens, 30
  - Rollers, Whitehouse, 40
  - ,, in vats, Knowles, 43
  - ,, engraving, Fulton, 97
  - Royet on chloring, 207, 214
  - Rumpff, colouring matters, 41
  - Rydill, dyeing, 89, 108
  - S
  - Salammoniac on aniline black, 112
  - Salleron’s colorimeter, 202
  - Sargent, wool washing, 45
  - Sauvée, dyeing apparatus, 199
  - Savary, wool dyeing, 46
  - Savigny, colouring matters, 41, 43, 151
  - Scarlet for delaine, 219
  - Schlumberger on prussiate of aniline, 190
  - Scholz, blocks, 198
  - Schultze, wool dyeing, 264
  - Scouring fibres, Plantrou, 40, 41, 152, 196
  - ,, textiles, Barthel, 263
  - Shirtings, blue and green for, 223
  - Shrinking fabrics, Jamieson, 239
  - Short, finishing, 246
  - Sifferlen’s steaming apparatus, 256
  - Silk, Durwell on, 73
  - „ dyeing, Rau, 152
  - ,, lustring, Volkenborn, 199
  - ,, printing, 20, 53, 165
  - ,, scouring, Nogaret, 46
  - ,, treating, Imbs, 46
  - ,, yarn dyeing, Dickins, 153
  - Silky appearance on fibres, 25, 200
  - Simpson, alizarine, 43
  - Singeing, Cross, 29
  - ,, Worrall, 244
  - Singe plates, Sumner, 264
  - Six, velvet printing, 44
  - Sizing, Thomson on, 78
  - Skein washing, Durancon, 45
  - ,, wringing, Greener, 265
  - ,, dyeing, Haubold, 265
  - Smith, beetling machine, 154
  - ,, finishing moreens, 154, 199, 241
  - ,, warp printing, 43
  - Soluble blue, dyeing with, 76
  - Spiraloid tenter, Prat, 44
  - Spreading and opening, Birch, 107
  - Squeezing machines, Birch, 142, 153
  - Stanley, colouring matters, 243
  - Steaming and ageing, Mather, 198
  - ,, apparatus, Sifferlen’s, 256
  - Steam colours on cotton, 180
  - Steinbach on chloring, 207
  - Stencil printing, Swan and Freeman, 197 .
  - Stretching fabrics, Lake (Garner), 245
  - ,, Newton (Lacassaigne), 154 200, 246
  - Stott and Barker, dyeing, 153
  - Sulphated oils, 19
  - Sulphides on aniline black, 131
  - Sulpholeic acids, 18
  - Sulphurous acid on aniline black, 128
  - Sumner (Tulpin), drying, 153, 238
  - ,, singe plates, 264
  - Suspending fabrics, Harper, 44
  - Swan, Stencil printing, 197
  - T
  - Tantin on indigo testing, 201
  - ,, ,, residues, 155
  - Tar, colouring matter from, 261
  - Tartrate of aniline for black, 14, 17
  - Testing cloth, Nawrocki, 200
  - ,, ,, Ehlers, 200
  - Textile materials, Durwell on, 69
  - Thomas (Girard), blue colour, 107
  - Thomson’s work on sizing, 78
  - Thread, etc., dyeing, Clark, 108
  - Thurmand, patterns, 152, 196
  - Tin, nitrate of, 158
  - Tongue, colouring matters, 148
  - Tracy, folding yarns, 232
  - Tragacanth, note on solution of, 17
  - Tribouillet, wool washing/ 199
  - Tulpin, drying, 44
  - Turkey red, discharges on, 221, 222
  - Turmeric as adultérant of flavine, 80
  - U
  - Ultramarine violet, Zeltner, 263
  - Unweaving textiles by acids, 32
  - Urquhart, finishing, 46, 265
  - V
  - Valkenborn, silk lustring, 199
  - Vanadium in aniline black, 10
  - Vegetable colour, Savigny, 151, 197
  - ,, fibres, treating of, 87
  - ,, matters, destroying of, 83
  - Velvet finishing, Cooper, 143
  - ,, printing, Six, 44
  - Vigne, embossing, 263
  - Vinant on dyeing, etc., 176, 221
  - Viol, bleaching, 152
  - Violet colour, Lake (Zeltner), 106, 151, 197
  - Vogel, wool, 199
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  - X k I
  - w
  - Wachhausen, brown colour, 106, 151
  - Wallace, treating fibres, 154
  - Warp printing, Smith, 43
  - Warps and yarns, Munn, 245
  - Wastiaux, cleaning wool, 46
  - Wax in sizing, 79
  - Weisbach, drying yam, 44, 153
  - Wehrlin on prussiates of aniline, 187
  - White discharge, 186
  - ,, colour, 183
  - Whitehouse, rollers, 40
  - Wilson, aniline dyes, 39
  - ,, finishing cotton, 103
  - ,, hot pressing, 46, 154
  - ,, plaiting fabrics, 200, 245, 246
  - Wilm, colouring matters, 41
  - Wingett, bleaching, 40
  - Winter, designs photographie, 196, 197,
  - 264
  - Wise, drying yarn, 99
  - Witz on aniline black, I, 109
  - Wolff, aniline colours, 43
  - ,, naphthaline dyes, 197
  - Woodcock, hawking machines, 241
  - Wool bleaching, Durwell on, 71
  - ,, burring, Cazanave, 264
  - ,, cleansing, Lowe, 199
  - ,, ,, Jourdan, 264
  - ,, cleaning, Wastiaux, 46
  - ,, dyeing, Savary, 46
  - ,, ,, Chalamel, 263
  - ,, ,, Schultze, 264
  - ,, washing, Rochette, 45, 153
  - ,, Vogel, 199
  - Wool treatment, Clark, 45
  - ,, ,, Barlow, 264
  - ,, ,, Clough, 264
  - ,, ,, Enoult, 45
  - ,, ,, Dickins, 153 ,, washing, Knowles and others, 199
  - ,, ,, Tribouillet, 199 ,, ,, Rochette, 244, 264
  - ,, ,, McNaught, 245 ,, ,, Sargent, 45
  - ,, and hair, 70
  - ,, and delaine printing, 178
  - Worrall, singeing, 244
  - Yarn apparatus, Dargue, 44
  - ,, dyeing, Miller, 108
  - ,, drying, Weisbach, 44, 153
  - ,, ,, Wise, 99 ,, scouring, etc., Byers, 108, 235 ,, treatments, Alston and Reid, 108, 153, 226 ,7 ,, Collins, 198, 245
  - . ,, ,,. Johnston, 231,
  - ,, ,, Paty, 198 ,, ,, Mungall, 264
  - Yellow for delaine, 220 ,, discharge on Turkey red, 222 ,, discharge, 185
  - Z
  - Zeltner, violet ultramarine, 263
  - Zingler, albumen, 44
  - ,, aniline dyes, 263
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 19.] JULY, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - I. Notes upon Aniline Black*
  - BY M. G. WITZ.
  - Development of the Calico Printers' Aniline Black observed by the Microscope.—The oxidation of aniline black as it is used in printing when spread in thin layers upon slips of glass and left exposed to the air goes on in the same way as when it is printed on porous, fibrous matters, but more slowly.
  - I have followed by means of the microscope the graduai formation of the black made with chlorate of potash and vanadium salts, and thickened with starch, such as commonly employed for roller printing, but without any admixture of sightening colours, and both with and without addition of salammoniac.
  - A few preliminary experiments shewed what thickness of the black should be put upon the glass by the finger. It should not be too opaque, but must have a sufficient body to enable the changes to be seen. The development is much slower than upon cotton.
  - The examination of the slips of glass, serving simply as a support for the object, by means of polarised light, especially at the outset and before the colour was completely dried, shewed broad, clear, rectangular plates, possessing iridescence, generally at some distance from one another; these are
  - * Bull, de la Soc. Ind. de Rouen, v., p. 159. Read April 6th, 1877.
  - B
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  - chlorate of potash. Besides these there were long crystals like lace or fern leaves in the colour containing salammoniac, and also a striated crystalline mass in abundance shewing an arborescent surface with interlacing branches.
  - The colours of the crystals are very beautiful when viewed through plates of selenite of varying thickness, but for a continuation of the observation the polarising apparatus may be dispensed with in order to have a stronger light.
  - After twelve hours in the air at a moderate température the characteristic emerald green tint is perceptible to the naked eye, though not visible in the microscope where the dry mass appears as a uniform substance, the highest powers not shewing any green particles, this colour being uniformly diffused over the crystalline mass; the removal of the super-ficial arboresence allows great numbers of fine separate crystals of chlorate of potash to be seen.
  - In colour containing salammoniac the green tint is not so equally distributed, and the fern leaf crystallization is specially observable. The muriate of aniline which at first shews numerous crystalline layers lying one above the other would appear to undergo a sort of partial fusion.
  - Twenty-four hours,—The colour is darker and is particularly observable as a dull green upon the crystalline fractures, prob-ably in conséquence of the mechanical effect of the capillarity after absorption of humidity.
  - Thirty hours.—The green colour is more intense and more uniform ; it is not, however, resolvable into any coloured points even with a power magnifying about 1,000 diameters and with a good light, which fact leads to the belief of an extremely fine division of the insoluble colouring matter, while the soluble principles of various natures are contributing to its production. The crystals of chlorate do not seem to be acted upon; they are visible in large numbers even in places where the layer of colour is so thin that the green shade is scarcely developed, and only visible where it is fixed on the transparent and swollen remains of the starch envelopes.
  - Forty to forty-eight hmt/rs.—Not much change; the colour
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  - s R N © = &. S c by s I P
  - absorbs moisture, which helps though, slowly, the progressive transformation of the crystallized salts.
  - The crystals continue to form apparently considérable masses, but they are more confused, especially in the thicker parts where the green colour is strongest.
  - Fifty-four hours.—The colour is a fine green, which well justifies the old and original dénomination of it as emeraldine; it has become so dense that light passes through it with difficulty, the mass is uniformly coloured and without points or centres.
  - During the ageing of ordinary prints the excessively fine particles of insoluble aniline black as they are formed in the colour, are attracted and fixed on the surface, or even within the substance of the porous matter of the fibre. There is, probably, the case of capillary affinity producing dyeing as M. Chevreul has demonstrated in a general manner. In the case of non-thickened liquids the solid particles can only be attracted by one another, agglomerating and forming masses of some degree of cohérence. It can be imagined that as by degrees the coloured substance is deposited in the invisible pores of the fibres it adhères to them so closely that the strongest washings cannot displace it.
  - Sixty hours.—No change.
  - Very small colourless droplets and signs of crystallization upon the glass, extending beyond the parts covered with the paste were observed ; these were afterwards studied.
  - Seventy-two to eighty hours.—The crystals of chlorate tend to decrease in size and increase in number, their form becoming less regular. The green colour becomes more developed on account of this multiplication of surfaces of contact of the salts.
  - Ninety-six hozirs.—By varying the illumination super-imposed crystals could be easily recognised ; the salammoniac being easily recognized from the characteristic form of its crystals.
  - The addition of a drop of cold water caused the crystals on the surface to instantly disappear, which are soon reformed by évaporation. Up to this time the greater part of the salts
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST
  - have taken no part in the reaction, although the whole mass has undergone successive crystalline modifications caused by alterations in the hygrométrie state of the paste.
  - One hundred hours.—Some accessory facts observed several times with powers of 240 to 300 diameters deserved describing.
  - (1) The drop of water which had penetrated the surface of the colour without salammoniac, upon its évaporation had caused masses of crystals, among which could be observed the fern-like shapes which characterise this sait.
  - (2) The faint, colourless crystalline appearance upon the edges of the slips of glass which have been previously noticed are striated with crossings in many parallel branches. They can only have arisen from the condensation of volatile substances. They are seen to disappear instantaneously at the least breath of air rendered moist by the lungs, and résolve themselves into numerous small drops, arranged with some degree of regularity. They soon go into crystals again spontaneously and suddenly, as if by a kind of explosion, giving at once the same appearance as before. The vibration of the air, whistling by drawing in breath between the lips, or metallic percussion sometimes détermines the sudden crystal-lization of dozens of these little drops visible at once in the field of view.
  - When the absorbed moisture is more considérable, the numberless little drops distributed over the surface of the glass, forming a sort of nebula, increase in size and coalesce in places. Then, when the moisture evaporates, they leave crystals more distinctly of the fern-leaf kind. The slightly irregular form which the contours of the liquid globules accidentally assume frequently causes the formation of a long crystal extending across the greatest diameter with perpendicular ramifications. Upon this scale the sudden crystallization is quite remarkable. It takes place in several drops at the same time, or in very rapid succession. This phenomenon, though microscopie, seems to be of the same kind as the crystallization of supersaturated solutions. The crystals can be made to redissolve and reappear an indefinite
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  - s R N S &, x s B 0 s C S P
  - number of times by slightly varying the température and humidity of the surrounding atmosphère. When a large-sized drop, viewed under a power of 300 diameters, is only partly crystallized, it illustrâtes extremely - the very small forces required to diminish or increase the crystals, and the limit of sensitiveness of this phenomenon is clearly seen.
  - These facts are useful in order to understand the Chemical and physical changes which may be at work during the ageing of prints owing to the mutual actions of the salts contained in the colour. For example, in this particular case, during the formation of the aniline black it is undeniable that there is a slight but continuous évolution of vapours of hydrochloric acid. These meeting the aqueous vapour présent in the air condense, and are deposited in an hydrated State in the form of extremely minute vesicles, which cover all the neighbouring parts; afterwards variations in the hygrométrie state of the air cause these to unité in small drops isolated one from the other. At the same time the ammonia which naturally exists in the air, although in very small quantity, becomes fixed in these acid drops and produces salammoniac. It is the excessively small parcels of this hygrométrie sait which give rise to the appearance observed by the aid of the microscope. To test this hypothesis a drop of dilute hydrochloric acid was left to evaporate spontaneously upon a large piece of glass under the same conditions. After some time the production of similar crystalline forms were observed, and at a relatively considérable distance from the spot where the acid was placed. Whatever may be the admitted explanation of the existence of the ammonia found upon the glass plates, it is évident that the same will serve for the fern leaf crystals observed in the colour to which no salammoniac was added. This sait spontaneously generated under similar conditions helps, by drawing moisture from the air, to cause the partial solution of the other salts, and thus increase the number of points of contact.
  - This séries of experiments was made in the month of April, 1876, in an inhabited room, well ventilated, and free from
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  - smoke and chemical vapours. The experiments were lately repeated to control the observations just recited, for it seemed necessary to examine whether the muriate of aniline was not itself sufficiently volatile at the ordinary température to give microscopie crystals having the same appearance as those of salammoniac. The direct method of seeking for the alkaloid in such small quantifies of matter being too difficult, it was necessary to have recourse to other methods of investigation.
  - The amount of humidity in crystals of muriate of aniline can certainly be sufficiently well ascertained by exposing them to a température of about 212°. The loss of weight by volatalization of the sait takes place very slowly in com-parison with the loss of the excess of water, and acid does not interfère with the accuracy of results which are mainly comparative, and rather for technical than scientific purposes.* But dry muriate of aniline certainly emits a sensible amount of vapour even at 60° F., sufficient to give a yellow colour to shavings of pine. This sait is slowly exhaled from the thickened colours containing it, and its volatilization continues during the ageing or oxidation of the aniline black. This can be well demonstrated by placing a piece of calico which has been dipped in a chlorate and vanadium mixture (without aniline) for some hours at a short distance from blacks while ageing. It becomes covered with a green colour.
  - When a solution of pure muriate of aniline at 21 oz. per
  - * Muriate of aniline in crystalline masses, colourless and light, and of very good commercial quality was placed in a 50 c.c. platinum crucible, which it three-quarter fills, and was exposed in a small steam drying chamber to a constant température of 216° or 217° F.
  - The loss of weight representing water and hydrochloric acid amounted to 1}2 per cent, after an hour and a half, and did not exceed 2 per cent, in four hours. Afterwards the volatilization of the sait was rigorously determined by five sucessive weighings at different intervals of time. It corresponded for this température to I part in 817 of the anhydrous sait per hour.
  - At the commencement of the heating, a slight ring of the sait carried up by the escaping vapour of water was deposited upon the sides of the crucible and did not afterwards disappear ; thus it is best to commence the heating gently, and not to have the crucible more than half full of sait.
  - Muriate of aniline heated for ten hours to F. remains colourless, and forms a colourless solution with water.
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  - gallon is thickened with starch, and then spread on glass, it shews, after a time, by the aid of the microscope, exactly the same appearances round the borders, and at a considérable distance from the colour itself, which were found in the complété black mixture.
  - But conclusions must not be drawn too hastily from this, for if another thickened mixture be prepared containing only chloride of aluminum, say from such a quantity of pure sulphate of alumina as would be required to exactly pre-cipitate one équivalent of chloride of barium per litre, it will be remarked in about two days that the same kind of small drops, giving striated and Crossing lines of crystals, are deposited upon the glass at some distance from the mixture. They are very abundant, and similar in every respect to those which were observed in connection with the aniline black mixture.
  - In these cases it is really the ammonia normally présent in the air which, meeting the moist vapours of hydrochloric acid gradually disengaged from the thickened material, becomes condensed in the saline state in microscopie groups.
  - When the disengaged vapours contain only muriate of aniline they are also slowly decomposed by the air, and yield salammoniac, as can be demonstrated.
  - The proof is easy to obtain by subliming either of these hydrochlorates separately from the bottom of a dish, and receiving the vapours upon plates of glass in such small quantity that, when cooled and breathed upon, they become invisible to the eye. Then by viewing the glass plates with a Power of 300 diameters, it is seen that the small drops from salammoniac give small crystals with crossings, more or less striated and very hygroscopic. On account of their extreme thinness the forms are not so beautiful as in the formerly-described cases; but the phenomenon of spontaneous crystal-lization are identical, and can be produced an indefinite number of times at will.
  - The microscopical crystals which come from the sublimation of the aniline sait are essentially different. They form transparent, isolated points, in some places gathered in
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- - OO
  - THE TEXTILE CO LO URL ST.
  - irregular groups ; in other places a dozen of these grains give a sort of crown shape, arising from a larger drop, the centre of which is void. The crystals are invariably isolated from one another in angular grains, the largest of which have a distant resemblance to a star with four unequal points ; they are less hygrométrie than salammoniac. The latter is especially characterised by the fact that each little drop gives a single crystalline mass, all the parts of which hold together and are inclined to interlace.
  - This is confirmed when the last séries of plates of glass are subjected carefully to the chlorinated gases disengaged from a chlorate by a dilute acid mixed with a trace of vanadium, when the muriate of aniline is not in too small a quantity upon the glass, it becomes slightly coloured, and has sometimes a purplish reflection. Under the microscope the small isolated crystals appear of a dark opaque green, with indistinct borders, often surrounded with a halo, with a colour gradually diminishing as it increases in size. Many of the crystals have only undergone a superficial change, since they remain still hygroscopic.
  - The air charged with chlorinated gases acts so energetically upon these very small quantities of matter that it is neces-sary to regulate very carefully the action and duration of contact, or otherwise the aniline black formed will be immediately bleached. When this happens transparent crystals of simple forms can be seen upon the glass. They are either long needles, formed of prisms laid end to end in a right line, elongated blades, or even oblique rectangular tables.
  - From these observations it may be concluded :—
  - (i) That the acid chlorides, like chloride of aluminum and hydrochloric acid, give off vapours which, in the common air, spontaneously form masses of hygroscopic crystals of salammoniac, just the same as the aniline black mixture does. The causes may vary, but the resuit is the same.
  - (2) The muriate of aniline is volatile at ordinary températures, and with time and under the same conditions gives results identical with the above.
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- - VVITZ ON ANILINE BLACK. 9
  - (3) That the sait obtained in microscopie crystals, by means of a hot sublimation quickly conducted, gives forms which differ from those of salammoniac, which may be trans-formed into black coloured products by exposure to chlori-nated gases.
  - We return now to the older sériés of observations.
  - At the end of six days an abundance of small cubical crystals are found upon the surface of the colour, clearly distinct and different from the other salts ; these are doubtless chloride of potassium.
  - Afterwards there may be seen large and long crystalline plates of a yellowish colour, these are always observed when the production of the aniline black has taken place with sufficient rapidity ; these crystals are volatile, of an unpleasant irritating smell, owing probably to chlorinated quinones, and soon disappear in the air.
  - We may note in passing that the vanadous chloride, or the hypovanadic chloride crystallized under the microscope in very long prisms, limpid and scarcely blue, grouped together in beautiful stellate masses.
  - After a time the crystals on the aniline black lose their distinctness, but the appearance of the dark green colouration only changes by becoming deeper. The adhesion of the hlm of colour formed is so great that friction and pressure of the fingers with the aid of cold water, is not able to detach this varnish-like mass from the glass ; no other thickened colour appears to form so résistant a mass ; it can only be abraded when wet by the nails.
  - When aniline black is printed upon cotton, it is not easy to find under the microscope any fibres covered with crystals ; some fibres serve to support actual crystalline masses.
  - In solutions of aniline which are not thickened, the mutual action of the salts is too rapid to be followed; however, the green colouration when it is observable under the microscope does not appear to be in the form of a precipitate.
  - in concluding this part we will confine ourselves to drawing
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- - 10
  - 89 & 8
  - 9
  - t X 8 S 8 01 0) s S >3 8, N
  - attention only to some conséquences to be drawn from this examination.
  - (i) Aniline black produced by the aid of chlorates in calico printing, appears to be formed dry by the close contact of the crystalline salts, there is, however, a modification of the crystals at the surface produced by the absorption of moisture from the air; the formation of chlorinated compounds inferior in amount of oxygen to chloric acid and their possible actions are of course phenomena which cannot be observed under the microscope.
  - (2) The présence of salammoniac in the colour is not indispensable to the génération of aniline black ; but as we have seen there is always production of a certain but exceed-ingly small quantity of this sait from the ammonia existing in the air.
  - (3) The chlorate of potash which forms large separate crystals in the dried colour, probably from that fact, does not immediately take part in the reactions, and only acts slowly. The substitution of this sait by the chlorate of aniline which crystallizes in fine needles, and which is an unstable sait, ought, on the other hand, to be favourable to the production of aniline black by printing, which in fact has been found to be the case by many experimenters.
  - Hypothesis of the nature of the action of vanadium upon the chlorates in the production of aniline black.
  - Although vanadium only plays an intermediary part in the production of the aniline black, it is the agent which promûtes the action of the salts upon one another, and continues it in such a manner that the smallest quantities of the métal suffice to prolong it indefinitely in very large quantities of dye liquors or colours for printing.
  - So long as chloric acid may be supposed to be présent in the acid colour, the vanadium is probably oxidised to vanadic acid, which immediately reacts upon the aniline, oxidising its hydrogen, and forming the base of the insoluble black substance, passing itself at the same time into the lower oxidised state of vanadous oxide ; this, in its turn, imme-
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- - WITZ ON ANILINE BLACK. 11
  - diately takes oxygen from the chlorate, and recommences the round of action. The chloric acid, by losing oxygen, forms lower oxygenated chlorine compounds, which are very unstable and very active, themselves it is known assisting in the production of aniline black ; so that each molécule of vanadium appears to possess a to-and-fro movement analagous in theory to that of the piston of a pump, by which it is charged rapidly with chloric acid, which it discharges without intermission in a dissociated state of oxygen and chlorinated compounds upon the aniline or other oxidisable substances, or substances which can be dehydrogenated. The amount of this action in a given time is in direct relation with the richness of the mixture in chloric acid, the température and the quantity of vanadium, even when this latter appears to be in infinitésimal quantity. The presence of a body to oxidise or dehydrogenise, which absorbs the products formed, also exercises an influence.
  - At the présent time we do not know any other element comparable to vanadium in this property of alternative oxidation and réduction ; copper has the same properties, but infinitely less powerful. Oxide of cobalt in very small quantity can décomposé an unlimited quantity of boiling solution of bleaching powder, but it is necessary to interrupt the operation and to collect the deposited oxide to make it act upon a fresh portion of substance.
  - It must not be forgotten that the reaction takes place in a medium constantly acid. Now, vanadic acid, in contact with hydrochloric acid, easily gives rise to chlorine, which is absorbed by the aniline, while the vanadous compound is reoxidised by the chloric acid. Hydrochloric acid itself is generated in proportion as the aniline is converted into the black substance, this accelerates the reaction, notwith-standing the production of insoluble matters.
  - As to the actual manner in which vanadium undergoes its métamorphosés in the presence of chlorates, it is convenient to propose a new theory, in which the passage into the state of vanadic acid is not necessary ; this theory appears to be indicated by the researches of Rosenstiehl upon the action
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- - 12 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - of chlorate of copper in aniline black. There is a constant tendency to the formation of chlorate of vanadium, a sait which, in a separate state, is extremely unstable ; this sait would certainly be more sensitive to oxidisable matters and acted upon at lower températures than chlorate of copper. But chloric acid is, according to M. Berthelot, an exothermic body, that is, a body which disengages heat when it acts upon others, in decomposing, by reason of the spontaneous destruction of the chlorate of vanadium, the chloric acid produces more heat than is required for the reaction ; the heat is not discernible by physical phenomena, because it is transformed into Chemical force, contributing to the décomposition of a fresh quantity, impondérable, it may be said, of chloric acid in combination with vanadium, giving rise at the same time to a continuous production of various chlorinated compounds.
  - Though there will be still doubts upon what is the real mode of action of vanadium, because by its nature it is difficult to analyse, it must not be forgotten that practically the very valuable properties of this métal are admitted as beyond dispute.
  - 2. Notes upon the Greening of Aniline Black* BY M. F. LAMY.
  - \Contents of a sealed packet deposited by M. Lamy at the Industrial Society, October 2Oth, 1876, and opened at his request at the meeting of fanuary i2th, 1877^
  - In May, 1873, I presented the Chemical Section of the Society with a Note upon the Greening of Aniline Black, the aim being to give an answer to the following three questions propounded by the section :—
  - * Bull. delà Soc. Ind. de Rouen, v., pp. 109, 112.
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- - GREENING OF ANILINE BLACK. 13
  - (1) What is the theory of the production of aniline black upon calico ?
  - (2) What causes the black to become green ?
  - (3) What is the best means of insuring the fastness of the black and diminishing the greening of it ?
  - The conclusions of the memoir were :—
  - (1) Aniline black is formed upon cotton by a progressive oxidation in layers of the aniline.
  - (2) The greening appears to be owing to influences which take away a certain quantity of oxygen from the black.
  - (3) The best means of insuring the fastness of the black and diminishing the greening is to assist the intimate combination of the aniline and oxygen. In a word, to promote the oxidation or oxigenation of the aniline.
  - I also added, “In practice the long exposure of the cloth in a warm and moistened atmosphère to the elevated température of about 1000 F., the action of bichromate of potash, of alkaline hypochlorites, bleaching powder, even steaming, are the means which may be recommended according to circum-stances.
  - " It is proper to add that the nature of the aniline sait is not without importance ; on the one hand as regards the complété fixing of the aniline, and on the other to avoid the serious danger of tendering the cloth.”
  - In the course of my observations I dwelt strongly upon the passage in bichromate of potash after the oxidation or ageing as giving good results as regards the tendency to greening.
  - Since then I have continued my experiments upon the oxidizing action of bichromate of potash upon aniline black, and I have observed that by treating the black, after it had been sufficiently oxidized in a moist ageing room, by a solution of chromic acid at a certain degree of concentration, it was no longer turned green by the reducing action of sulphurous acid.
  - My method of operating is very simple :—
  - After the black has been sufficiently aged—that is, when it has acquired a dark bronze colour—I complété the oxidation by passing it in a bath composed of—
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - Boiling water ................................ 200 gallons.
  - Bichromate of potash........................... 20 1b.
  - Hydrofluosilicic acid at 41° Tw.............. 20 1b.
  - Chromic acid is liberated, and the water becomes slightly turbid by the insoluble sait of potash which précipitâtes. I leave the black in contact with the liquid for one and a half or two minutes, after which I wash and soap at 140° F. for half an hour, wash and dry.
  - The black thus treated resists very well the action of hydrochloric and sulphurous acid, it is hardly necessary to say that it perfectly resists the action of air and light.
  - By the same process very fine aniline greys can be obtained, which are no longer liable to be greened by sulphurous acid.
  - I may remark again, as I did in my first note of 1873, that the kind of aniline sait to be used is not indifferent in order to obtain a complété fixation of the aniline. Although good results can be obtained from the muriate of aniline, I never-theless prefer the tartrate, this sait permits of a stronger colour being used without danger of injuring the fibre.
  - The proportion of chromic acid which I have indicated may be modified ; thus with i part each of bichromate and hydro-fluosilic acid to 1,000 parts of boiling water, and leaving the colours twenty to twenty-five minutes in the bath the same results are obtained ; still, I think it is not well to exceed the proportion of i part of sait to 100 parts of water, as given in the first instance. If stronger than this the black is injured.
  - This treatment has not the disadvantage of reddening the black like bichromate alone, for before the soaping it is a pure, velvety, rich black.
  - Contrary to what has hitherto been observed as to the action of bichromate of potash upon the black, the soaping, even at the boil, does not diminish in the least its fastness, it resists the reducing action of sulphurous acid as well after as before the soaping.
  - It seems to folio w from these experiments that they con-firm the conclusions I drew in 1873, when I explained the greening of the black to be due to a disoxygenation of the aniline.
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  - I had completed this study and had put into practice the above method, when various means of unequal efficacy were proposed for preventing the greening of aniline black. The most of them rest upon the choice of the aniline employed, the action of bichromate of potash, and steaming. I had indicated all these means from 1873 as being available for at least retarding the greening. I have further reasons for believing that the papers published in the Bulletin (1873, No. 2) of this society, have been the cause of the researches being taken up by several chemists. I state this, less as a Personal claim for priority than as honourable to the Industrial Society at Rouen, and especially to its Chemical section.*
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  - At the meeting of January I2th, 1877, the President, at my request, opened the sealed packet deposited by me with the Society on the 20th October, 1876, which contained the pre-ceding note upon the greening of aniline black.
  - The note, in accordance with the régulations, was openly read by the President, and then committed for examination to the Chemical Section. I think it necessary to make some additions to the contents of the sealed packet which will make it more complété and facilitate its study.
  - I point out the oxidising action of chromic acid as a means to be employed to render the black unchangeable.
  - At first sight the process would appear impracticable, for it is well known that a concentrated solution of chromic acid in great measure destroys aniline black, but in a more diluted State the effect is quite the opposite ; the black, instead of being destroyed, becomes fuller and richer.
  - *See M. Lamy’s paper, Textile Colourist, ii., p. 219.
  - + Read March 2nd, 1877.
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  - I give some of the methods which I have practised, and first the method pointed out in the sealed packet, which is as follows :—
  - When the colour has become of a dark bronze shade it is passed at full width in a roller beck containing the following proportion of materials—
  - 200 gallons of boiling water.
  - 20 1b. bichromate of potash.
  - 20 1b. hydrofluosilic acid at 41° Tw.
  - The hydrofluosilic acid is not indispensable, and in the proportions above indicated can be very well replaced by sulphuric acid, using 4}4 1b. of the concentrated acid to each io 1b. of the bichromate of potash.
  - The passage lasts from 172 to 2 minutes; the goods are then soaped for half an hour, washed, and dried.*
  - After this passage in chromic acid, if the black has been sufficiently oxidized in the ageing, it will not become green by the action of sulphurous acid. This method, which is satisfactory enough as far as regards the greening, is not all that could be wished for as far as concerns the whites, especially white grounds. To obviate this difficulty I use a second beck with rollers placed in continuation of the first beck or cistern, and charge it with water containing either soda at the rate of 2 1b. caustic at 65° Tw. per 100 gallons, or 5 1b. of quick lime. The second beck is also heated to 212° F., and the piece passed through and the whites much less stained.
  - There is another method of operating which consists in passing the pièces from the ageing room into a dyebeck which contains for 100 gallons water heated to 212° F, 1 1b. bichromate of potash,and I 1b. of hydrofluosilic acid at Tw., or instead, 672 oz. strong sulphuric acid ; the pièces are kept in for half an hour, washed, soaped, and dried.
  - The same methods can be applied to blacks which have
  - * The proportion of soap to water is stated by the writer as 3 grammes per litre, that would be 3 1b. to 100 gallons water, but evidently that must dépend upon the quality of the water, and be left to the discrétion of the manager.—Ed.
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- - NOTES FROM MULHO USE. 17 been fixed with carbonate of soda and well washed; the results are the same.
  - From the practical experiments which I have made, I believe I may State that blacks thus treated with chromic acid in proper proportion resist very well all greening influences. But to succeed there are some points to be attended to, which however are not difficult to hit.
  - To obtain a good resuit it is necessary that the black should contain as much aniline as possible, that the ageing be long continued, that the précisé quantity of chromic acid required and the length of time necessary in it be known, the température being always maintained at the boil.
  - The tartrate of aniline blacks are to be preferred, as I have previously stated. The aniline black oxidized by chromic acid is somewhat easier acted upon by chlorine than the black fixed by the usual methods.
  - May it be concluded from what has been said that the question of obtaining an ungreenable black has been solved ? It would be bold on my part to answer in the affirmative. There is still something to say and do with regard to this important question, but it may be said now, that what has been done has been in the right direction and towards the object aimed at, and we may hope soon to have commercial blacks which will not become green in warehouses and shops.
  - 4. Notes from Mulhouse.
  - Dissolving of Gum Tragacanth.—At a recent meeting of the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, M. Rosenstiehl made some remarks upon dissolving gum tragacanth. He found by experiment that if a small proportion of hydrochloric acid was added to the water, the time required to préparé a solution of the gum was much less than with pure water. A solution was as well made in four hours this way, as in twelve ç
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  - or twenty-four hours with simple water, as was usually practised. For say, 20 gallons of water, and 20 lb. of gum tragacanth, he used 8 oz. of hydrochloric acid. This small quantity of acid he says, does no harm in printing, but still as a précaution against possible accidents it is well to add after the solution an équivalent quantity of acetate of soda, 1 •4 lb. of crystals of soda, previously saturated with actic acid, being sufficient to neutralise i lb. of hydrochloric acid. By using double the above quantity of acid, that is, taking i lb. to 20 gallons of water, a solution of gum tragacanth can be obtained in four hours of the same consistence as would require twenty-four hours macération without acid.
  - We may remark upon the communication of M. Rosenstiehl that colour mixers in this country for at least a quarter of a century have known this accelerating action of acid upon the solution of gum tragacanth, and it has been occasionally employed when extra thick gum water was required; the acid preferred was nitric acid, which was afterwards neutralised either by solution of crystals of soda and then acetic acid added, or by acetate of soda at once added. The method is very little used, the préférable way of dissolving gum tragacanth being to leave it soaking for a day or two with occasional stirring, when it quickly dissolves by boiling ; but the acid method may be sometimes useful when there is immédiate want of the gum water.
  - We copy the following from a manuscript note book dated 1852:—
  - Prepared Tragacanth Gum Water.
  - 24 lb. gum tragacanth,
  - 24 gallons of water, steep twenty-four hours, 3 pints nitric acid at 60° Tw.; boil and add 6 lb. soda crystals.
  - 3 pints acetic acid.
  - Sulpholeic Acids.—At the same meeting M. Schaeffer drew attention to the sulpholeic acid or sulphated oils, which are now sold under varions and fantastic names, as the source of fatty matters in alizarine red printing and dyeing. It was
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  - considered désirable that this body should be studied, and an attempt made to explain what its action was ; the study of the question was entrusted to Messrs. Goppelsroeder and Weber.
  - This modification of oil was first introduced by Mercer and Greenwood in their patent of June 22nd, 1846; but, as far as we know, was not found to possess any advantage over ordinary oil for Turkey red dyeing. Its manufacture has been from time to time revived, and various applications attempted, but without permanent success. Modifications of it are now in use in many places for the production of alizarine red, and it will be of interest to know what the Mulhouse chemists think of it. Several samples have corne under our hands in a more or less crude form. One, purporting to be the article discovered by Storck, and sold by Honoré and Co., seems more carefully manufactured than most of the others. It is a perfectly clear oil, shews about 4 per cent, of sulphuric acid when decomposed, and contains ammonia. It is miscible with cold water, and makes a clear solution in warm water. Its base would appear to be mainly castor oil. These sulpho-oils must be distinguished from the so-called soluble oil used mostly as a softener for finishing goods. It is nothing but castor oil soap, which is remarkably soluble in cold water. It is difficult to see what other advantage as a softener, besides its liquid state, it can have over any other kind of soap.
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  - We have received the following letter from M. J. Depièrre relating to this style I read with much interest in your last number the observations made by M. Koechlin concern-ing the manufacture of the discharge blue styles. The process which I indicated appears not to be successful upon
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  - dark blue, though the specimens I sent were certainly tolerably dark. (The first and second on p. 222, vol. iii.) It is possible, however, to accomplish the end by the follow-ing process, which is entirely new, and which the discoverer, M. Richard, authorises me to communicate to you. The process rests upon the same principles which I pointed out, and consists in padding the blue in a solution of red prussiate of proper strength, and printing upon it the colours as follows :—For white, simply lime water thickened ; for colours, magnesia added to the albumen solution and pigment. The goods are steamed in the common way, and washed off. By this method, and adopting the strengths to suit it, the darkest blue can be discharged.”
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  - Madder Styles of Silk Printing.—In printing these styles upon foulards the greatest possible attention must be given to the bleaching before printing and the cleansing from the thickening before dyeing.
  - Bleaching.—The goods are to be boiled, as before stated, with soap and water for the first time during an hour, and a second time for two hours, so as to render the silk as supple as possible, and to remove from it all substances which might attract colour in the dyeing, and which consequently would cause the whites to be bad and the whole print defective. The pièces are then washed in running water, and passed through a beck of water heated at 140° F., then through an alkaline solution made by dissolving i 1b. of crystals of soda in 10 gallons of water, the object of this treatment being to dissolve out any soap which might remain attached to the
  - * Abridged from the work of M. D. Kœppelin upon this subject. Continued from p. 194, vol. iii.
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  - cloth. The pièces are again washed in running water, and afterwards soured in sulphuric acid marking 372° Tw., finish-ing by another washing in running water.
  - . Before treating of the printing, we give the composition of the madder colours, which, properly speaking, consist of mordants thickened so as to be fit for printing.
  - Black for Madder.
  - Iron liquor at no Tw...........................
  - White starch ..................................
  - Pipeclay.......................................
  - Gallipoli oil .................................
  - 172 gallons.
  - 12 oz.
  - 2% 1b.
  - Xib.
  - Red for Madder.
  - Acetate of alumina at 10° Tw.... i gallon.
  - Acetate of alumina at 18° Tw.... i gallon,
  - White starch............................... 13 oz.
  - Pipeclay................................... 172 lb.
  - Acetic acid ............................... i 1b.
  - This mordant may be sightened with a décoction of madder or with a little sulphate of indigo.
  - Chocolaté for Madder.
  - Iron liquor at 22° Tw........................ 27 gallons.
  - Acetate of alumina at 10° Tw................. 10 gallons.
  - Acetate of alumina at 18° Tw................. 2 gallons.
  - Logwood liquor at 11° Tw..................... 1 gallon.
  - Vinegar........................................ 1 gallon.
  - White starch................................... 8 lb.
  - Pipeclay...................................... 15 lb.
  - Gallipoli oil ............................... 272 lb.
  - Printing.—The foulards are extended in the usual manner upon the printing tables.
  - The black is first printed, then the ground colour, and lastly the red. In drying care must be taken that the wet parts do not touch one another or the cloth, which would cause " marking off.” After drying they are hung in a warm and somewhat moist stove for forty-eight hours, and finally for twelve hours in a quite dry atmosphère.
  - Cleansing from Thickening.—In this operation it is advis-able to work with only a few pièces at a time, so that the
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  - liquors may not become charged with too large a quantity of unfixed mordants. If this happens, the mordants dissolved in the cleansing liquor will combine with the parts of the silk which should remain white, and in the dyeing they would attract colour to a greater or less extent. It is for this reason better to work with a number of small vats, and to préparé each one with a liquor made by boiling 15 1b. to 20 1b. of bran with 40 gallons of water, reducing the température to 140° F.
  - A piece of seven handkerchiefs is immersed in the liquor, keeping the piece as open as possible, and worked in the liquid for ten or fifteen minutes, and then washed in running water with such movement and pressure as will insure the complété removal of every trace of unfixed mordant, for upon this being thoroughly effected dépends the goodness of the results.
  - Sometimes we have commenced by washing the pièces in cold water, and finished the operation by passing in bran as just described ; but we prefer the first method of operating, which gives satisfactory results. It fixes a greater quantity of mordant upon the tissue, and the colours are consequently fuller and brighter.
  - If the print has a very heavy ground of colour, it should have two passages in the bran water instead of one, which in this case is insufficient to fix the colours upon the stuff.
  - The action of the bran in this process is easy to explain in the following manner. The pièces are hung up in the stoves in order to evaporate away the excess of acids in the mordants, and to induce the formation of sub-salts of alumina and oxide of iron which combine with the stuff; this first action completed, the bran of the cleansing liquid, which contains alkaline and earthy phospates, as well as albumen and gluten, complétés and perfects the précipitation of the bases alumina and iron and their combination with the fibre. It also prevents the excess of mordant, or that portion not in combination with the fibre, and which washes off, from fixing upon the white parts of the handkerchiefs, by means of the phospates and albumen forming insoluble
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  - compounds which are not absorbed by the fibre. The action of the bran is double ; it fixes the mordant upon the printed portions of the goods, and it prevents the white portions from combining with the excess of mordant dissolved off and contained in the liquid.
  - The Dyeing.—We also recommend that only a few foulards should be dyed at one time, for good results are seldom obtained when working with a large quantity in one dyeing vessel.
  - in a small beck containing from 7 to 10 gallons of water, boil for a few minutes 11 1b. bran and 74 1b. glue. Reduce the température to 950 F. ; add 72 1b. sumach, and pass in two pièces of seven handkerchiefs for the space of ten minutes. Then add to the liquor say i 1b. of garancine which has been steeping for several hours in vinegar, and work the pièces for one-and-a-half hours, raising the température to 150° F., and then for another half-hour increasing the heat to about 1 70° F. ; if the colours are not then dark or full enough, the liquor must be raised to the boil and kept at that for some minutes.
  - The pièces are then washed in running water, and rinsed or beaten until all loose colour is removed. Although the quantity of cloth thus treated seems very small, we prefer as in the cleansing, and for the same reasons, not to operate upon more than seven handkerchiefs at once, and as a single workman can look after several dyes going on at the same time, he is able in the course of a day to do as much work as if he was attending to operations on a larger scale, when he could not manage more than one or two becks at most.
  - After dyeing it is necessary to proceed to clear the whites, which, notwithstanding all the précautions taken, have become considerably charged with colouring matter. A liquid is pre-pared by boiling 4 1b. of bran in 10 gallons of water, the température being lowered to 170° F., fourteen foulards are entered and worked for about fifteen minutes.
  - They are afterwards washed in running water, and when well rinsed and cleaned they are passed into water made slightly sour with sulphuric acid or a mixture of sulphuric
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  - and nitric acids, then washed again in cold water, dried, and finished in the manner before described.
  - Prussian Bhie Styles.—Two wooden vats of a capacity of from 35 to 45 gallons are required—the first for the mordant and the second for dyeing.
  - The mordanting vat is set with the following proportions of material :—
  - Water.......................................... 15 gallons.
  - Persulphate of iron at 90° F................... 12 1b.
  - Protochloride of tin .......................... 134 lb.
  - Bichloride of tin ............................. 1 lb.
  - Two hundred handkerchiefs are worked in a sufficient quantity of this mordant by means of a wince for five minutes, so that they may be equally impregnated with the mordant. They are then washed and rinsed out in running water, and are ready for dyeing.
  - The dyeing vat is set with the following proportions of material :—
  - Water............................................. 15 gallons.
  - Yellow prussiate of potash ....................... 172 lb.
  - Sulphuric acid at 169° Tw........................... 6 oz.
  - The pièces are worked in this liquid for four or five minutes, and then washed out the same as after the mordanting. ©
  - The process of mordanting, washing, and dyeing, is repeated as many times as may be necessary to obtain the desired shade of colour, which may range from light blue to a shade as dark as indigo. The pièces are then washed and printed with the following discharge :—
  - Discharge upon Blue.
  - Caustic potash at 60° Tw................................ 8 lb.
  - British gum ............................................ 2 74 lb.
  - [To be continuedl\
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  - A.D. 1876, October 12th.—No. 3947.
  - Magner, Paul. “An Improved Process of Treating Vege-table Fibres to impart to them a Silky Appearance." ( Void by reason of the Patentées having neglected to file a Spécification inpiirsîiance of the conditions of the Letters Patent.)
  - “My invention relates to a process for treating vegetable fibres, such as cotton, flax, hemp, China grass, jute, and the like, to give them a glossy or lustrous appearance, so that they may be used as a substitute for silk, and when manufactured into fabrics will be greatly superior with regard to strength and substance to such fibres in their natural or ordinary condition.
  - “My improved process is as follows, that is to say, the cotton, linen, or other vegetable fibre is first freed from starchy, and fatty, and extractive matters, and other impurities, by any suitable means, and is converted into binitrated cellulose. For obtaining this product the best method is to employ a mixture of seven volumes of sulphuric acid of a density of 66° Beaumé, and three volumes of azotic acid of a density of 1420. The cellulose is immersed in this mixture cold for from twelve to fifteen minutes, and the mass is kept in constant agitation so that all parts may be perfectly impregnated with the acid liquor. Then while still moist the binitrated cellulose, which is quite neutral to test paper, is treated with a reducing agent or the like, such as peroxide of hydrogen, bisulphide of hydrogen, chlorine in a nascent state, or by any Chemical agent which will give the hydrogen or a portion of the hydrogen that it contains to one or more équivalents of oxygen of the binitrated cellulose to form water. The textile material is then washed and rinsed in boiling water, then in
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  - cold water, and steeped for a few minutes in an acetic or ammoniacal solution of silk or feathers in the following proportions:—One part of solution of silk or 2 parts of solution of feathers for each 100 parts of vegetable fibres.
  - “For making this solution I proceed as follows:—I introduce ioo parts of acetic acid of a density of 1044 into a digester or other suitable apparatus capable of sustaining a pressure of eighteen atmosphères, then I add 2 parts of silk or 3 parts of feathers, and heat the apparatus till the interior température is raised to about 250° centigrade. I maintain the pressure and température for about two hours and then allow the apparatus to cool. The solution is then perfectly clear and ready for use.
  - “The binitrated cellulose after its immersion in the above described solution is placed in an apparatus or vessel wherein a partial vacuum may be produced. (The ordinary extract vacuum pan will be found convenient and suitable for this purpose.) I maintain in the said apparatus or vessel a moderate température, say from 60° to 65° centigrade, to dry the fibres gradually. The vacuum or partial vacuum is neces-sary to free the said fibres after their treatment by my process from the acetic acid or the ammonia which has been employed in the above process and which passes of in the form of gas.”
  - A.D. 1876, October 27th.-No. 4170.
  - MOULTON, GEORGE. "Improvements in Apparatus Employed in the Engraving, Milling, or Chasing of Rollers or Cylindrical Surfaces.”
  - We give only the provisional spécification of this patent which will be sufficient to indicate, to those interested, the nature of the invention. The complété spécification is accom-panied by two sheets of engravings, without which it would not be intelligible.
  - “My invention relates principally to apparatus employed in the engraving or chasing of métal printing rollers, but is also applicable wholly or in part to apparatus used or suitable for use in the engraving, milling, or chasing of rollers or cylindrical surfaces.
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  - " In certain apparatus the roller to be engraved revolves at the same time that a carriage carrying a cutting tool is caused to traverse, whereby diagonal or spiral lines are eut upon the surface of the roller. Previously to my said invention, motion has been imparted to the said carriag by means of a rack and pinion.
  - "According to the first part of my invention, I employa screw in lieu of a rack, and I impart movement to the said carriage by means of a nut which is mounted upon the said carriage and is caused to revolve upon the said screw when the carriage is traversed. A second part of my invention relates to means whereby is effected the ‘indexing’ which détermines the distance apart of the lines eut upon the roller or cylindrical surface.
  - " According to this part of my invention I employ the said screw and also a shaft which is arranged to revolve in unison with the said nut and which transmits motion to the body to be chased, say for example a copper roller, and I effect the said ‘indexing’ by rotating the said screw, at the required intervals and to a suitable extent.
  - “In apparatus which I have devised for the purpose, the said screw is mounted in bearings and the said shaft is also mounted in bearings and arranged in position parallel with the said screw, the said nut being arranged to be rotated by the operator. The said carriage may be guided and sustained by the said screw and shaft alone, or be fitted to slide upon the bed, as preferred. The said shaft is connected by gearing with the said nut, and the shaft is connected at one end by means of gearing or change wheels with a worm which works in a wheel which is connected with the said roller. On one end of the said screw is fixed a worm wheel with which gears a worm which is connected by change wheels with a handle or lever which works in conjunction with a notch plate. A rack is arranged to be actuated by means of a treadle, and when moved in one direction gears with a spur pinion, and thereby imparts movement to the train of gearing which gives motion to the said screw. An incline or part carried by the said rack disengages the said handle from the notch plate
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  - and permits the said motion to be effected. The said rack is moved ont of gear with the said pinion before making a return movement. The said rack is guided by means of a piece which is mounted on a fixed stud and is shunted from one to the other of two connected grooves as the said rack commences its acting or its return movement.
  - " This arrangement may be varied, and if preferred the rack may remain in gear with the said pinion and the latter be fitted to revolve in one direction without actuating the train of gearing. The entire arrangement enables the operator to effect the said ‘indexing’ by simply pressing upon the said treadle with his foot without removing his hands from the handles by means of which he governs the action of the chasing tool.
  - “The arrangement for rotating the screw may also be employed when milling or when engraving or chasing other than diagonal or spiral lines.
  - “Other appliances may be substituted for the said treadle, as for example, a sliding rod actuated by hand may give motion to the aforesaid rack, or a revolving rod also actuated by hand may impart motion to the said train of gearing, in which latter case the dividing motion or notch plate and handle may be mounted on the carriage.”
  - A.D. 1876, October 28th.-No. 4185.
  - Croysdale, William. “ Improvements in the Means or Apparatus Employed in Dyeing Wool in Indigo Vats.” ( This invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - " The object of my invention is to effect a saving of labour and indigo in dyeing wool in indigo vats, and to dispense with the employment of what is known as the nets and bags used in the dyeing and wringing processes.
  - “ I provide a perforated receiver of métal or other suitable material, this I lower into the vat, which has been previously charged with the liquor prepared ready for dyeing; when the receiver is lowered to the required extent into the vat the wool is thrown into it and undergoes the process of dyeing.
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- - CROSS: SINGE ING FABRICS. 29
  - "When required the receiver containing the wool may be drawn out of the vat by means of any convenient appliance, such as a crâne or its équivalent.
  - “When the wool is sufficiently dyed the receiver is taken out of the vat and tilted on one side in order to get as much liquor as possible out of the wool and more rapidly previous to its being taken to the wringing apparatus. The tilting operation may be done by any ordinary means.
  - “A doorway is provided in the side of the receiver through which the operator may pass for the purpose of taking out the wool or for cleansing purposes.”
  - A.D. 1876, November Ist.—No. 4223.
  - Cross, James Percival. "Improvements in the Method of and Apparatus for Singeing Fabrics.”
  - “This invention relates to a method of and apparatus for singeing woven fabrics at the selvages only. Hitherto such fabrics have been singed over the entire surface, or when desired to be singed at the selvages, only this has been very imperfectly performed by hand by means of gas jets and a flexible tube.
  - “The apparatus may be arranged so as to work either hori-zontally or vertically. In either case the cloth or fabric passes over and under straightening bars, thence between two sets of gas burners fitted into horizontal tubes placed on each side of the cloth at the selvages only, and then between a pair of drawing rollers which pull the piece of cloth or fabric through the apparatus at the speed desired.
  - “In the horizontal arrangement the gas jets are placed above and below the cloth, whilst in the vertical arrangement the cloth is caused to pass over a roller above, then vertically through a fire-box placed at each selvage, and thence under a second roller beneath to the drawing rollers.
  - “ Outside each fire-box are two gas pipes, one on each side of the cloth, fitted with jets inclined towards the selvage, and thus the cloth becomes singed at both sides along the selvages only.
  - “In either case the stop rod of the machine (which is used
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  - for putting the driving strap on to the fast or loose pulley so as to set the drawing rollers in motion or stop them) is con-nected to levers furnished with hooks which, when the rollers are stopped, pull the selvages out of the fire-boxes at each side, and thus prevent the burning of the cloth. When the rollers are set in motion again the stop rod releases the edges of the cloth, when they again pass into the fire-boxes and the operation proceeds as before.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification only; the complété spécification is illustrated by two sheets of drawings, without which it cannot be understood.
  - A.D. 1876, November 1st.-No. 4228.
  - Rogers, James Henry. “An Improvement in the process of Cleansing Woollen Cloths Preparatory to the Dyeing of of the same.”
  - “This invention relates to an improvement in the process of preparing woollen cloths for dyeing and finishing, the object being to effect an economy in the cost of the acid bath employed, to produce a better resuit, and to render the operation less injurious to the health of the workmen employed.
  - “Hitherto it has been common (owing to the cost of pure hydrochloric acid) to use, for the formation of the acid bath, the acid used as a bi-product in the alkali manufacture, but this acid, besides being obtained in a very dilute state, necessi-tating the use of a large number of carboys) contains iron in sufficient quantity to colour the goods submitted to the acid bath to an extent that is very objectionable when light colours are required. Moreover the bath prepared by the use of this acid gives off sulphurous acid fumes, which cause great incon-venience to the workmen employed. Now in order to remedy these inconveniences I préparé a hydrochloric acid bath in which the goods are to be washed or cleansed by combining sulphuric acid with brine or its équivalent in a tank of water.* The action of the sulphuric acid upon the brine results in the formation of hydrochloric acid (which will acidulate the water) and in a deposit of sulphate of soda on the bottom and sides of the tank,
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- - ROGERS: CLEANSING WOOLLENS. 31
  - “The cloth is to be submitted to this bath and worked in the usual way to cleanse it from the lime or other soaps and other extraneous matters contained in the cloth, after which it is drained or squeezed to express the liquor therefrom, and rinsed in the usual way to remove all traces of the acid.
  - " Having described in general terms the nature of my invention, I will proceed to give a detailed explanation of the means of carrying out the same.
  - “In preparing the hydrochloric acid bath I take, say, 45 1b. of sulphuric acid (commonly known as chamber acid) of the spécifie gravity of 1’600, i.e., 120° Twaddle diluted to 20 Tw., and to this I add about 54 1b. of common sait (chloride of sodium) in crystals; after stirring with a wooden rake until the sait is dissolved, the bath is ready for use. In this bath the cloth is ‘worked’ either by hand or by any other well known mechanical means until the workman is satisfied, from the appearance of the cloth, that it is cleared of soap, dirt, carbonate of lime, and other extraneous matters. This will take place in somewhat less time than half an hour, the bath being in good condition and the cloth of an average thickness. it is then drawn out of the bath by means of a winch, the liquor with which it is saturated being at the same time squeezed out by means of nipping rollers. The cloth is next washed with water in a washing machine to remove any re-maining acid therefrom, after which it will be in a fit state for dyeing if that is required, or for finishing in any of the various ways well understood.
  - “In cases where the residual liquor is allowed to become a saturated solution by additions of the above ingrédients, and by the return of the liquor expressed from the cloth on its removal from the bath, sulphate of soda will deposit on cool-ing the bath, together with sulphate of lime and other matters removed from the cloth. By separating these matters from the sulphate of soda, that substance may be utilized as a marketable product.
  - “The method of using the bath which I prefer after the removal of the first piece of cloth, is to renew the hydrochloric
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST
  - acid by the addition of sulphuric acid and common sait before mentioned, taking care that the latter is added in excess, viz., more than 59 parts of sait by weight to 49 parts by weight of sulphuric acid. This excess of sait is to avoid the presence in the liquor of uncombined sulphuric acid.
  - “If the pièces are not too bulky nor too dirty, 6 1b. of sul-phuric acid and 8 1b. of common sait form a suitable charge to keep up the strength of the hydrochloric acid bath from piece to piece.
  - “When the action of the bath is to be accelerated, I heat it by steam or in any other well known manner.
  - “I would remark that the hydrochloric acid, when gene-rated in the bath as above explained, is far more efficient than when mixed with water in the ordinary manner. More-over the nascent gas is absorbed by the liquor, and no incon-venience is experienced from the escape of acid fumes.
  - “The sulphate of soda formed in the bath, although taken up by and partially retained in the cloth, is not detrimental thereto, but is rather advantageous when the cloth is to be dyed, as it acts the part of a mordant in preparing the cloth for the dye.
  - “Another advantage incidental to the invention is, that the strength of the cloth is materially increased by being subjected to this cleansing process, experiments having proved that on an average the tenacity of the cloth is increased by some fifteen per cent.
  - “Having now set forth the nature of my invention, and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I claim, the cleansing of woollen cloths by submitting the same to a hydrochloric acid bath prepared as above described, in which the nascent acid gas is brought into contact with the goods.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 8th—No. 4318.
  - GAUDCHAUX-PICARD, Emile. "Improvements in Chemi-cally Unweaving Textile Fabrics made of Animal and Vegetable Fibrous Substances for the Purpose of Utilizing by Combing Silk or Wool Filaments therefrom."
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- - GAUDCHAUX: CHEMICAL UNWEAVING. 33
  - "In the processes heretofore employed for separating the animal fibre from the vegetable fibre in waste textile fabrics containing a mixture of both kinds of fibre for the purpose of utilizing the wool or silk filaments thereof, it has been neces-sary to tear or eut the fabric into very small pièces in order to obtain the above-named filaments in the necessary separated condition, and by this means the filaments were reduced to such a small state that they were of little or no value for being used again in the manufacture of fabrics.
  - "My présent invention has for its object to obtain these wool or silk filaments separated from the fabric of their full length so as to render them applicable to the processes of carding, combing, and the like, whereby they may be rendered available for being again manufactured into threads, yarns, fabrics, or felts. For this purpose I firstly sort the waste fabrics so as to separate therefrom those pièces in which either the warp or the weft is wholly of animal fibre, while the weft or the warp is wholly of vegetable fibre, and I make use only of those pièces, rejecting all those in which the two descriptions of fibre are contained both in the warp and the weft. Such sorted pièces I then subject to what may be termed a Chemical process of unweaving, that is to say, I destroy the warp or weft of vegetable fibre by treating the fabric with sulphuric, nitric, or hydrochloric acid, or with any other known substance that will destroy vegetable fibre, but will not act upon animal fibre; but by preference I employ for this purpose hydrochloric acid gas in a dry state. After washing or even without being washed the fabric so treated is reduced to such a state of disintegration that by simply rub-bing or slightly beating it the vegetable matter will fall from it in a state of powder, leaving the wool or silk warp or weft in its entire condition, in which it can then readily be sub-jected to the combing or carding processes or to other well known operations for converting the fibre into threads, yarns, fabrics, or felts.
  - “My above described process of sortingthe pièces of fabric and then chemically acting upon only those pièces that contain animal fibre in the warp or weft only has therefore D
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- - 34 THE TEXTILE CO LO U RI ST.
  - the effect of obtaining the animal fibres therefrom in a perfect and separated condition, and consequently of much greater commercial value than is the case where the animal fibre obtained is still an interlaced condition owing to its existing both in the warp and the weft of the unsorted pièces of fabric, inasmuch as in thelatter case in order to obtain the fibres in a separated condition it is necessary to tear or break them to a very small size of little or no value for the purpose of weaving, whereas in the former case the fibre is produced in such a state that it can at once be utilized for spinning and weaving.
  - "Having thus described the nature of my said invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I claim, the before described method of chemically unweaving fabrics composèd of animal and vegetable fibre by first sorting out the pièces in which the animal fibre exists in the warp or the weft only, and then chemically operating upon these pièces so as to destroy the vegetable fibre, and thus obtain the animal fibre in an entire and separated condition suitable for being subjected to the combing, carding, drawing, and other operations.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 8th.-No. 4321.
  - Knowles, Samuel. "Improvements in Conditioning and Ageing Printed Fabrics, and in Apparatus Employed therein.” ( Void by reason of the Patentées having neglected to file a Spécification in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent.)
  - “My improvements in conditioning and ageing printed fabrics consist in forcing by means of a fan or otherwise a current of air, either cold or heated, into the chamber through which the fabric to be operated upon is conveyed. This chamber may be heated by steam chests or not as may be required. The fabric is traversed backwards and forwards in the chamber so as to expose it to the air for the required time. It is then taken into an upper chamber and carried over and under guide rollers. The air from the lower chamber enters the upper chamber - through openings. The
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- - DEWHURST: EMBOSSING FABRICS. 35
  - vapours and gases which escape during the process are drawn off by a fan or other équivalent.
  - “When necessary, jets of steam may be introduced into the chambers to condition the fabric or to accelerate the process of ageing."
  - A.D. 1876, November 9th—No. 4340.
  - Dreyfus, Charles. "Improvements in Dyeing and Print-ing.” (This invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - “These improvements consist in producing aniline blacks which will much better stand. the action of the air and light than the blacks hitherto produced.
  - “To carry out this invention I take the aniline black dyed or printed on textile fabrics or yarns, after having been aged or oxidyzed and raised by any of the operations well known to dyers and printers. I then pass it through a beck con-taining water, to which I add a solution of an aniline violet, in preference a red shade of violet, but any other violet derived from coal tar will answer the purpose. The black in passing through these solutions, which may or may not be heated to the boiling point, absorbs the violet colouring matter, and the black so produced will stand much better the action of air and light than the black which has not been passed through such a bath, and will not turn green so soon.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 16th.-No. 4435.
  - DEWHURST, HENRY, of Huddersfield, in the county of York. "Improved Means or Methods of Embossing, Indenting, or Engraving Shapes and Designs on Woven or Felted Fabrics.”
  - “The object of this invention is to imitate fancy or figure weaving on woven or felted fabrics, and the means or methods employed to attain this object consist in applying solvents of fibrous materials to the- fabric by means of an ordinary en-graved printing roller, block, or stencil plate. The solvents may consist of alkaline Chemicals, such as caustic soda, caus-tic potash, or any of the soda and potash’salts, either com-bined or separately; also an alkaline solution of copper, such as may be obtained by dissolving oxide of copper in a solution of ammonia. When the roller, block, or plate is brought into
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  - contact with the fabric, the figure or design is printed or im-pressed thereon with the solvents above referred to, such solvents eating or decomposing those parts of the material impressed therewith, the resuit being that a clear, distinct, and permanent figure or design is produced on the fabric.
  - “To facilitate the eating or decomposing of the material impressed with the solvents the fabric is exposed to the action of steam.
  - “In applying my invention to woollen or worsted fabrics, I use a solution of caustic soda, caustic potash, or a mixture of these, but preferably a solution of ordinary caustic soda of 35° Twaddle, or spécifie gravity 1’175 for an ordinary en-graved roller or block; but I vary the strength of it according as it is required for deeper or lighter engraved designs. I mix the aforesaid solution of caustic soda with mucilage of Irish moss as a thickener or vehicle, I then print the said thickened mixture of caustic soda on woven or felted fabrics either pre-viously dyed or in the ‘grey,’ using an ordinary printing roller, block, or stencil for that purpose; I then dry the goods either by passing them over hot cylinders or chests, or through a chamber of hot air until the thickened mixture of caustic soda is dry or set; I then steam the goods in the ordinary way. When the pressure of the steam is about 50 1b. per square inch in the boiler, I find that ten minutes steaming with 2 or 3 1b. pressure in the steam chest or chamber is suffi-cient to develop the design. When the goods corne out of the steam chest or chamber the design is found to be formed on the fabric by the solvent or destructive action of the caustic soda upon that portion of the fabric on which the design has been printed, impressed, or stencilled. If the design is not fully indented or developed I continue the steaming until I find it sufficiently done; the goods are then washed to remove the caustic soda or other solvent, and further treated by dyeing or otherwise in the ordinary way.
  - “For cotton fabrics I use a solution which has a solvent action on cotton, made by saturating a strong solution of am-monia with oxide of copper; this I stiffen or thicken with a solution of glue or other suitable substance; I then print with
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- - BROCHOCKI: SOLID HYPOCHLORITES. 37
  - this mixture and steam dry, and wash them in the manner hereinbefore described as applied to woollen goods.
  - "Having thus described the nature of my invention, and the manner in which the same is to be or may be carried into practice, I would have it understood that I do not confine myself to the use of the Chemicals herein described, as various other solvents of animal and vegetable fibres may be used with more or less success ; but what I claim as my invention and consider to be new is,—
  - “Firstly. The use of caustic soda, caustic potash, or mixtures of these, or mixtures of one or both of these with salts of soda, or potash, or other solvents of animal fibres for the purpose of embossing, indenting, or engraving shapes and designs on woven or felted fabrics when applied in the manner herein described.
  - “Secondly. The use of the herein described ammoniacal solution of oxide of copper or other solvent, of vegetable fibres applied in the manner and for the purpose herein described.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 20th—No. 4483.
  - BROCHOCKI, Comte Thomas DE Dienheim. “The Manufacture of Concrète Substances or Products to be used as a Substitute for Lye or Javelle.”
  - “Alkaline hypochlorites in a liquid condition, which have received various names, such as lye of Javelle or Labarr-aque liquor, are considered perfect as bleaching materials.
  - “This invention relates to the préparation of these substances in a solid condition, either crystallized or granular, or in cake, in the following manner:—A concentrated alkaline lye of soda or potass is cooled, and through it is passed a current of chlorine gas previously cooled and washed in cold water until the lye becomes almost completely saturated, being kept cool throughout the operation by the immersion of the vessels employed in a bath of water, which is kept at a low température, not exceeding 50° Fahr. At the end of about 24 hours there is obtained a crystallized product possessing powerful bleaching properties. The mother liquor
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  - concentrated by évaporation in vacuo being again cooled will furnish an additional quantity of the crystals.
  - "Another method is to pass a current of chlorine over a thin layer of alkaline carbonate, spread over surfaces kept cold in a close vessel. The chlorine issuing from this vessel is passed through a very strong lye of oxide of the same alkali as that in the carbonate, and this lye kept constantly cool readily absorbs the chlorine, producing hypochlorite. By a latéral opening that can be hermetically closed fresh quantifies of carbonate are introduced into the first vessel from time to time when the material therein is supposed to be nearly saturated, and thus the risk of décomposition is avoided. The liquid hypochlorite produced in the second vessel being mixed with the partially saturated carbonate in the first there is obtained a new product, which is solid and crystalline, the carbonate taking up the water of the hypochlorite solution, so as to fix the hypochloric acid in a solid form and in quantity depending on the proportions in which the liquid hypochlorite and the partially saturated carbonate are mixed together.
  - “For the purpose of solidifying the hypochlorite solution the carbonate may be used without being in the first place exposed to chlorine, and other substances that take up water may be employed for the same purpose, but in such cases the product is less strong in chlorine.
  - “The concrète product obtained by either of the methods above described is white in colour, but may be coloured as desired. It retains its bleaching properties longer than any of the liquid hypochlorites. It may be prepared for commerce in the condition of a granular sait by merely agitating the solution, when it becomes pasty, or in cakes by running the pasty mass into moulds and allowing it to solidify at a low température, the mould, being for that purpose iced. it 'can be easily packed and transported, as in the solid condition it does not affect metals nor organic substances. For use it is dissolved in cold water with facility.
  - “Having thus described the nature of my invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I claim—
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- - WILSON: ANILINE DYËS. 39
  - “First. The manufacture of alkaline hypochlorite bleaching material in concrète form by passing chlorine through concen-trated alkaline lye maintained at a low température, and continuing the treatment until crystals of the said hypochlorite are produced, substantially as herein described.
  - “Second. The manufacture of concrète bleaching material by passing chlorine through concentrated alkaline lye till an alkaline hypochlorite is obtained in solution, and solidifying the same by the addition of the alkaline carbonate, substantially as herein described.
  - Third. In manufacturing concrète bleaching material by the method referred to in the preceding claim, the use for solidifying the hypochlorite solution of alkaline carbonate which has previously been exposed in a thin layer to the action of chlorine, substantially as herein described.”
  - A.D. 1876, December 20th.—No. 4912.
  - Wilson, William Virgo, and Cant, Hemington. "Im-provements in the Manufacture of Aniline Dyes.”
  - “In the manufacture of rosaniline or red aniline dye certain secondary products are simultaneously obtained, among these occurring chrysaniline and chrysotoludine, yellow dyes known in commerce as phosphine and other resinous products.
  - “The object of our invention is the séparation of these associated bodies from the red dye, and we effect this by first treating the crude red melt with a caustic alkali or alkaline earth, in practice however preferring caustic soda, and we thus obtain the colouring matter in a basic form.
  - “When the above process is complété the resulting bases must be washed and dried, and then submitted to the action of commercial benzol, either in the cold or by heat, without pressure, or preferably with pressure, when after a sufficient digestion with this reagent, that is, when the foreign matters are to a great extent dissolved, the insoluble rosaniline base, now in a high state of purity, is collected upon a filter, and can be at once employed for the manufacture of magenta crystals or other well known dyes by the usual processes.
  - “Commercial benzol is always associated with its higher
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  - homologues, which also have a solvent action, but for the purposes of this invention we prefer that known as 90 per cent. benzol.
  - “The vessel in which the operation is conducted may be of iron or copper or other suitable material, and so enclosed as to prevent the loss of any appréciable quantity of the solvent.
  - “Bye-products and residues resulting from the manufacture of aniline dyes may also be similarly treated.
  - “Having thus described the nature of our invention, and the method of performing the same, we would have it under-stood that we claim the use of benzol for the purification of red aniline dye in the manner above described.’
  - 8. British and Foreign Patents, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, May 2§th to June 22nd, i8yy, inclusive.
  - Rollers, Bleaching and Scouring.
  - 185,377. T. Whitehouse, of Boston, Mass., assigner to the American Tube Works, of the same place, for “Manufacture of copper print-rolls."—Application filed August 3rd, 1876.—American patent.
  - Claim.—“ï. A hollow or tubular métal roll, having its inrier side or peri-phery made with a spline or rib, or other équivalent construction, by a compression of the métal which composes the body of the said roll. 2. A hollow or tubular métal roll, having its inner side or periphery of a taper from end to end, and made with a spline or rib or of other équivalent construction, by a compression of the métal which composes the body of the said roll. 3. The manufacture of a hollow or tubular métal roll, with a spline or rib or other équivalent device upon its inner side, by passing the métal which makes the body of said roll, in conjuuction with an internai mandrel or former of suitable shape, between grooved pressure-rolls, all substantially as described, and for the purpose specified.”
  - 1900. Adolph Alexandre Plantrou, jeune, of Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23, Paris (France), Director of Manufacture, for the invention of “An improved process of scouring and purifying vegetable and animal fibres and fabrics.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2067. Henry Barker Wingett, of High Street, Alton, in the county of Hants, for an invention of "Improvements in bleach-
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  - ing paper-pulp, textile fabrics, and other fibrous material."— Dated 26thMay, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 115,926. Knab and Fournier, for "Bleaching wool, silk, &c.”— Dated 9th December, 1876.—French Patent.
  - 42,220. A. A. Plantrou, for an imported invention of "Scouring and purifying textile substances at once.”—Dated 14th, May, 1877.—(French patent, 2oth April, 1877.)—Belgian patent.
  - Obtaining and Treating Colours, etc.
  - 4839. Charles Girard, Edmond Willm, and Gustave Bonchar-dat, all of Paris, in the republic of France, for an invention of "Improved processes for obtaining colouring matters or of processes for obtaining novel colouring matters.”—Dated 14th December, 1876.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 674. Michel Edmond Savigny, Chemist, and Alfred Charles Collineau, Doctor in Medicine, both of Boulevard St. Denis, 1, at Paris, have given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “The manufacture of an improved vegetable colouring substance, and the dérivatives thereof.”
  - 1056. William Jackson, of Urmston, near Manchester, in the county of Lancaster, Print Buyer, for an invention of "Improve-ments in treating fabrics printed with aniline colours.”—Dated i6th March, 1877.—New application.
  - 2071. Carl Rumpff, of New York, in the State of New York, United States of America, but at présent residing at Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “A new or improved dry process of oxidising ‘anthracene,’ and improve-ments in the manufacture of dyes and other colouring matters from the product so obtained.”—Partly his own invention and partly a communication to him from abroad by Friedrich Bayer, Friedrich Westcott, and August Siller, all of Barmen, Rhenish Prussia.—Dated i5th June, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 2009. John Casthelaz, of Crumpsall Vale Chemical Works, near Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturing Chemist, for an invention of “ Improvements in the préparation of pro-ducts of aniline and matters from which aniline is or may be derived, suitable to be used in dyeing and printing, and in the préparation of colouring matters.”—Dated June roth, 1874.— This patent has become void.
  - 7429. Wm. M. Brown, of London, England, assignée of John
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  - Lightfoot, for "Dyeing and printing textile fabrics."—Patent No. 111,654, dated 7th February, 1871.—Application filed 28th August, 1876.—Re-issue.
  - Claim.—“The method of preparing color-mixtures for aniline black, by producing chlorate of soda and combining therewith a sait or salts of aniline and a suitable metallic sait, substantially as described.”
  - 7430. Wm. M. Brown, of London, England, assignée of John Lightfoot, for “Dyeing and printing textile fabrics.”—Patent No. 111,654, dated 7th February, 1871.—Application filed 6th December, 1876.—Re-issue.
  - Claim.—“The method of preparing color-mixtures for aniline black, b y producing chlorate of ammonia and combining therewith a sait or salts of aniline and a suitable metallic sait, substantially as described. ”
  - 7431. Wm. M. Brown, of London, England, assignée of John Lightfoot, for “Dyeing and printing textile fabrics.”—Patent No. 111,654, dated 7th February, 1871.—Application filed 6th December, 1876.—Re-issue.
  - Claim.—“A col or-mixture for aniline black, containing as active consti-tuents a sait or salts of aniline, an alkaline chlorate, or other suitable oxidizing-agent, and vanadium, or one of more of its salts, oxides, or sulphides. ”
  - 7432. Wm. M. Brown, of London, England, assignée of John Lightfoot, for " Dyeing and printing textile fabrics.”—Patent 111,654, dated 7th February, 1871.—Application filed 6th December, 1876.—Re-issue. -
  - Claim.—"Acolor-mixtureforaniline-black, containing as active consti-tuents, a sait or salts of aniline, an alkaline chlorate, or other suitable oxidizing agent, and uranium, or one or more of its salts, oxides, or sulphides.”
  - The four preceding patents are re-issues of the original United States patent.
  - 184,1 42. Samuel Cabot, Jr., of Boston, Mass., for “Processes of manufacturing anthracene."—Application filed 31st October, 187 6.—American Patent.
  - Claim..—1. The process of manufacturing anthracene or other heavy hydrocarbons, consisting, essentially, in injecting into the still a vapor having less latent heat than steam to raise anthracene or heavy hydrocarbon out of the still or retort, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. 2. The process of manufacturing anthracene or other heavy hydrocarbons, consisting in first vaporizing any of the petroleum ethers or other light hydrocarbons by passing the same through pipes or other vessels located in close proximity to the still, and then injecting said vapors into the still for the purpose of raising anthracene or any heavy hydrocarbon out of the still, substantially as set forth.”
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PATENTS.
  - 43
  - 67. R. Simpson, A. BROOKE, and T. Royle, of Greenford Green, Middlesex, for "Improvements in preparing alizarine and other colouring substances extracted from anthracene."—14 years.— Dated 12th February, 1877.—Italian patent.
  - 42,111. G. Wolff, for “Mixtures for colouring the products of aniline.”—Dated 3rd May, 1877.— Belgian’patent.
  - 116,229. Savigny and Collineau, for “Preparing a vegetable colouring substance, thoroughly innocuous, called ‘cauline,’ and its sub-products.”—Dated 29th December, 1876.—French patent.
  - Processes of Printing and Dyeing.
  - 266. James Chadwick, of the Spring Brook Print Works, Chad-derton, in the county of Lancaster, has given notice at the Office of the Commissioners of his intention to proceed with his application for Letters Patent for the invention of “Improvements in printing textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by James Harley, of Lowell, Massachusetts, United States of America.
  - 2108. John Knowles, of Globe Works, Manningham, near Brad-ford, in the county of York, Machine Maker, for an invention of “Improvements in securing rollers in dyeing and sizing machine vats.”—Dated 3oth May, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted. ‘
  - 2197- Henry Dewhurst, of Huddersfield, in the county of York, Woollen Printer, for an invention of “Improvements in mor-danting or preparing woven or felted fabrics for printing.”— Dated 6th June, 1877. — Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2 399- Thomas Paterson Miller, of the Cambuslang Dyeworks, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “Improvements in or connected with the process of dyeing yarn or cloth with alizarine or analogous coloring matters.”—Dated 2ist June 1877.
  - 1756. Samuel Milne Smith and Charles Telford Smith, of Horton Dye Works, Bradford, in the county of York, Dyers and Finishers, for an invention for “Improvements in dyeing or printing textile or other fabrics, warps, or yarns, and in machinery and apparatus to be employed therein.”—Dated r8th May, 1874.—This patent has become void.
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- - 44 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - 115,864. PRAT, for " A spiraloid tenter for dyeing stuffs in pièces or parts.”—Dated 5th December, 1876.—French patent.
  - 116,231. Six, for " Printing velvet in pièces.”—Dated 28th December, 1876.—French patent.
  - 116,242. Zingler, for "Improvements in preparing albumen of blood and applying it for dyeing and printing tissues and other substances with colours, and also for sizing and enamelling wood, glass, and metals.”—Dated 28th December, 1876.— French patent.
  - Drying.
  - 2787. The Letters Patent granted to William Harper, of the firm of Messrs. Eden and Thwaites, of Bolton, in the county of Lancaster, Bleachers and Finishers, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for suspending fabrics in drying stoves,” dated 25th September, 1869, and advertised in the Commissioners of Patents’ Journal of 6th October, 1876, (and Textile Colourist, vol. II., p. 294), as having become void by reason of the non-payment of the additional Stamp Duty of 100/., have been stamped with the additional Stamp Duty of 100Z., and were produced at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions on the nth day of June, 1877, pur-suant to the Act 40 Vict. c. 19, intituled “An Act for rendering valid certain Letters Patent granted to William Harper for ‘Improvements in machinery or apparatus for suspending fabrics in drying stoves.’ ”
  - 20. C. H. Weisbach, of Chemnitz, for “Rotary engines with an air-current for drying yarn.”—3 years.—Dated 28th December, 1876.—Italian patent.
  - 79. C. H. Weisbach, of Chemintz, for “A rotary machine with a ventilator for drying yarn.”—2 years.—(Secret.)—Dated 22nd January, 1877.—Austrian patent.
  - 115,809. Tulpin, Brothers, of Rouen, for “A continuons mode of drying textile substances by the suction of hot air through the layers.”—Dated 2oth November, 1876.—French patent.
  - 115,938. Testud de Beauregard, of Paris, for “A drying-room for fabrics.”—Dated i2th April, 1876.—French patent.
  - Yarns, Skeins.
  - 1548. John Dargue and William Dargue, of Bradford, in the county of York, Machinists, for an invention of “Improvements
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  - in machinery or apparatus employed in the process of bleach-ing, scouring, dyeing, and sizing warps or yarns and fabrics.”— Dated 27th May, 1870.—This patent has become void.
  - 115,884. Durançon, for " Improvements in machines for washing textile substances in skeins.”—Dated 7th December, 1876.— French patent.
  - Wool and Silk Treatments.
  - 492 3- Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an invention of " Improvements in the treatment of wool and apparatus for the same.”—A communication to him from abroad by Jules Raulin, Professor of Chemistry at the Faculty of Sciences, of Lyons, France.—Dated 2oth December, 1876.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 1905. Adrien Enoult, of Elbeuf-sur-Seine, in the republic of France, for the invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for removing knots from woollen and other textile fabrics and for dressing and finishing the same.”—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2208. André Prosper Rochette, of Petit-Quevilly, près Rouen, in the republic of France, for an invention of " Improvements in washing wool.”—Dated 6th June, 1877.
  - 184,301. C. G. Sargent and F. G. Sargent, of Graniteville, Mass., for "Wool-washing machines.”—Application filed 19th July, 1876.—American patent.
  - Claim.—“1. In a wool-washing machine, the combination of a bowl or tank A, press-rolls B, an inclined table C, and a single reciprocating carrier D, substantially such as shown and described, constructed and arranged to deliver the fiber from the bowl to the rolls without assistance. 2, in a wool-washing machine, the combination of the table C and the reciprocating toothed carrier D, provided with hooked rear arms R, substantially as shown. 3. The combination of the swinging-arms E, retarded in their movement, with the vertically sliding carrier D mounted thereon and con-nected by devices, substantially as shown and described, with the pitman M, whereby the carrier is caused to rise and fall as it moves backward and forward, as set forth. 4. The combination of the shaft F, provided with the arms E and the pulley H, encircled by the friction-strap I, the vertically-sliding carrier D, mounted on the arms E, the rock-shaft J provided with the arms K and L, and the pitman M and crank N, arranged to operate as described. 5. In combination with the pitman M, arranged to operate as shown, the toothed bar or rake Q, secured rigidly thereto, as shown. 6. The raised toothed ribs S, constructed and arranged substantially as and
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  - for the purpose described. 7. The elastic or spring teeth U, ‘secured upon the face of the table C, as shown, to prevent the backward movement of the fiber. 8. The spring-arms T, arranged above the face of the table, substantially as and for the purpose described. 9. The pivoted carrier-teeth d, provided with the notches e in their lower ends, as shown and described. 10. In combination with the pivoted teeth d, and the bar i, having its ends mounted on springs, as shown, and foi- the purpose described. 11. In a wool-washing machine, a reciprocating carrier D, provided with elastic wire teeth F, as described. 12. The combination of the table C, provided with the raised ribs S, and the carrier D, provided with the teeth g, having their ends curved forward, as shown. 13. In combination with the doffer-roll W, the guards X, constructed and arranged substantially as shown, and for the purpose described.”
  - 115,970. Savary, for " A product for dyeing wool blue, black, green, or maroon.”—Dated i2th December, 1876.—French patent.
  - 116,043. CHALAMEL and Co., for " A process of dyeing woollen tissues with aniline black.”—Dated i8th December, 1876.— French patent.
  - 11 6,150. Imbs, for "Treatment of threads of single raw silk after ' dyeing.”—Dated 22nd December, 1876.—French patent.
  - 11 6,239. Wastiaux, sen. and jun., for "A Chemical process for cleaning and disacidifying wool, woollen rags, and tissues.”— Dated 29th December, 1876.—French patent.
  - 55. J. A. C. Nogaret and P. F. Bousquier, of Saint Jean du Gard, for “An economical System of regulating the scouring of silk.”—5 years.—Dated i6th January, 1877.—Italian patent.
  - Finishing Processes.
  - 859. John Wilson, of the firm of John Wilson and Company, and William Cochrane, both of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, have given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of "Improvements in hot pressing textile fabrics and in the machinery or apparatus employed therefor.”
  - 1994. William Walton Urquhart and Joseph Lindsay, both of Dundee, in the county of Forfar, North Britain, Engineers, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for treating or finishing woven fabrics.”—Dated 22nd May, 1877.— Notice to proceed has been given.
  - 2261. Ferdinand Rath, of Goldsmith Street, in the city of London, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for plaiting or folding woven or other fabrics.”— Dated 9th June, 1877.
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 20.] AUGUST, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - I . New Colouring Matters Derived from Anthracene*
  - BY M. MAURICE PRUDHOMME.
  - A mixture of glycérine and concentrated sulphuric acid acts in a remarkable manner upon the anthracene séries of colouring matters, giving rise to new substances, also endowed with dyeing properties.
  - I have principally studied alizarine and mono-nitrated alizarine. The alizarine used in the following experiment was the No. i of Meister, Lucius, Brüning, and Co.; it is for purple, and is nearly pure alizarine.
  - A mixture was composed of—
  - i part alizarine in paste.
  - 2 parts white glycérine.
  - 2 parts sulphuric acid at 169° Tw.
  - Upon heating it soon became dark brown, with an abun-dant évolution of gas and vapours, which contained a little sulphurous acid and acroleine. The température should be kept for some time about 200 C. to effect the transformation of the alizarine ; it is then allowed to cool, mixed with a large quantity of water, and thrown on a filter.
  - The greenish yellow product, which remains undissolved
  - * Bull, de la Soc. Chem., Paris, xxviii., p. 62., July 20th, 1877; communication dated Mulhouse, June 22nd, 1877.
  - D
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  - after several treatments with hot water, is put into contact with a cold mixture of equal parts of water and alcohol. This solvent readily separates from it a colouring matter of the alizarine family, but shewing very considérable différences from alizarine.
  - In dyeing it gives reds and pinks more yellowish, purples bluer, chocolatés less red and fuller, and black finer than alizarine yields. Soda, ammonia, and carbonate of soda dissolve it with an orange-red colour, which at once dis-tinguishes it from alizarine, which colours alkaline liquids purple.
  - If alcohol is added to the alkaline solutions they become dichroic, shewing red by transmitted and green by reflected light, like the salts of chrome. The solution in alum has the same characters as alizarine solution. Its powers of resisting the action of soap, of acids, of chlorine, etc., are the same as alizarine.
  - The commercial mono-nitroalizarine from the "Anilin and Soda Fabrik” of Mannheim, becomes changed under the same influences, giving birth to some curious colouring matters.
  - The proportions of materials and treatment were the same as for alizarine.
  - By treating the washing waters with soda, there was obtained a dark indigo-blue precipitate, which by acting upon with sait of tin and soda, was reduced, giving rise to a pink coloured liquid, which was covered with a greenish blue scum.
  - The matter remaining on the filter is composed of two distinctly different bodies, easy to separate by cold diluted alcohol.
  - The substance which dissolves best in this vehicle dyes alumina mordants violet. Strong iron mordants, and mixed iron and alumina mordants, are dyed in a blue-black ; weak iron mordants take a very blue grey, similar in shade to indigo.
  - The other substance gives by dyeing a pretty good black, a greyish lilac, and, instead of red, pink, or chocolaté, catechu brown shades having no mixture of red,
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  - This is the first example within our knowledge of any substance dyeing alumina mordants of a brown colour.
  - Both the colouring matters give colours resisting soap well, less perfectly resisting chlorine, and which are destroyed by strong acids.
  - Colouring matters are already known of the anthracene sériés which dye alumina mordants of a purple colour. One is obtained by the action of ammonia in close vessels upon the anthrapurpurine discovered by Perkin in crude alizarine. it appears to be the same as the purpuramide of Stenhouse. The other is a commercial product, made by Gauhe and Co., of Barmen, and does not appear to be of any considérable importance from a practical point of view, for, according to M. Potier’s report, the anthraviolet does not dye easily, is irregular, and the colours it yields are not fast to bran, soap, or chlorine.
  - A stable colouring matter yielding a séries of shades similar to logwood, and capable of replacing it in steam colours, yielding faster colours, would at the présent day have a considérable value. One of the colouring matters which I obtained from nitroalizarine appears to be close to such a désirable substance.
  - What is the probable condition of these bodies ? It is not likely that they are products of réduction. The members of the alizarine séries which are lower than it do not possess any dyeing properties.
  - They can scarcely be products of oxidation, for the conditions of their origin are nearly the same which lead Lalande to the synthesis of purpurine, and we found no trace of that substance présent. We are almost compelled to think that the molécule of glycérine enters directly into the reaction, and that the bodies are glycerides.
  - I intend to study the same reaction upon different colouring matters such as purpurine, isopurpurine, etc.; of the anthracene séries, and also the non-colouring members of the same séries, such as anthraquinone and the nitro-anthraquinones.
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  - THE TEXTILE ÇOLOURIST
  - 2. Ageing or Mastering of Logwood for Dyeing.
  - [In the Muster Zeitung, No. 29, 1877, from the Polytech. Notizblatt, we find some remarks upon this subject which are worth translating. It is known that the dyers who grind or rasp logwood for their own use do not consider it fit for use until it has been wetted and undergone a sort of fermentation accompanied by heating, which takes about six weeks. In the following note the caution against ammoniacal vapours and the use of urine in the wetting, as well as the hastening of the ageing by use of glue or size, are points to be noticed.—Edl\
  - The fermentation of rasped logwood is best carried out in the following manner :—For each 100 1b. of the wood, take 30 1b. of clear soft water. The wood is spread out to the thickness of i or 2 inches, and degged with the water, say by means of a fine rose degging-can (it is important that this quantity of water should be very uniformly distributed, and the wood equally wetted, or otherwise the fermentation will not be complété) ; after the degging, the wood is heaped up and well trodden down. After lying in a heap for fourteen days, the wood is spread out again in an even layer, and degged again with 10 1b. of water to each 100 1b. of the original dry wood ; this done the wood is again heaped up for eight days, at the end of which time it is ready for the use of the dyer. The following conditions must be observed :—• (1.) The wood should be placed in a dark room, where the température can be kept from falling too low in cold weather, and with sufficient circulation of air. A cellar with some openings for air is very suitable. (2.) The wood must not be placed in stables recently used, nor near nightsoil, for the ammoniacal gases which are likely to be présent do not hasten the préparation of the wood, but actually injure it. For the same reason all mixtures or additions of soda, alkaline ashes, urine, etc., to the degging water, is to be absolutely avoided. Further, the water used should be free
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  - from lime, for it is found that spring water generally is unfavourable to fermentation ; the sulphate of lime usually présent in spring water is hurtful, and water containing it should not be used. The only good method of hastening the fermentation of logwood is by the use of glue water. For 30 1b. of degging water, 2 1b. of good glue may be used, which must, of course, be dissolved in it before using, and applied to 100 1b. of dry wood in an equable manner ; wood so treated can be used after standing two days with perfect success, provided the glue water is applied at a température of about 80° F., and the process conducted in a place where the température does not fall below 66° F. The idea that the colouring matter is at all increased by the glue is erroneous, it simply acts by setting it free. The desired resuit can be obtained in a couple of days in this way, which takes three weeks to accomplish by the use of water alone. In using glue for this purpose, care must be taken that it is free from alum or other injurious materials.
  - 3- On Chrysoline : a Nezu Yellow Colouring Matter Derived from Resorcine*
  - BY FREDERIC REVERDIN.
  - The colouring matter which forms the subjectof this note, and which we have prepared since March of this year at the works of Monnet and Co., Plaine (Geneva), is formed by the simul-taneous action of phthalic acid and sulphuric acid upon benzylresorcine.
  - Benzylresorcine.—This substance is easily obtained either by the action of chloride of benzyl upon resorcine in présence of a small quantity of powdered zinc, or by heating an alkaline alcoholic solution of resorcine with chloride of benzyl, or again by heating in an oil bath to about 300° F., a mixture of i molecule of resorcine and 2 molécules of benzyl.
  - Moniteur Scientifique, August, 1877, P- 860.
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  - The simplest method of making it is to add by degrees chloride of benzyl to resorcine in a State of fusion. There is immédiate disengagement of hydrochloric acid in large quantity, and the mass becomes reddish brown. When all the chloride of benzyl has been added, the mass is heated to about 3000 F. in a vessel provided with a condenser until the libération of hydrochloric acid has ceased. The product is then thrown into water, which is raised to the boil in order to expel the remaining traces of chloride of benzyl, the mass is left to settle, and the clear decanted.
  - The compound thus obtained is in the form of a strongly coloured oil, very thick, insoluble in water, and heavier than it ; it distills at a very high température, being partially decomposed. It is soluble in alcohol, colouring it yellow, the solution possessing a distinct green fluorescence. Benzyl-resorcine dissolves also with a yellow colour in benzine, chloroform, and ether.
  - Préparation of Chrysoline.—This colouring matter may be prepared by heating together benzylresorcine and phthalic and sulphuric acids, but it is more economical to employ the following method, which does not require the previous préparation of the benzylresorcine.
  - In an enamelled iron vessel, heated in an oil bath to 270° or 280° F., place
  - Sulphuric acid ............... 460 grammes.
  - Ordinary phthalic acid ................. 1 gramme. (?)
  - The latter body is transformed by the sulphuric acid, and heat into phthalic anhydride. In the mixture is next placed
  - Resorcine..................... 1 kilogramme.
  - Sulphuric acid ..................... 460 grammes.
  - Chloride of benzyl ........... 1 kilogramme.
  - The mass is gently heated in a water ; the heat may be withdrawn when the mixture commences to give off hydrochloric acid, and the reaction allowed to continue without heating. When the disengagement of the acid has ceased, which is generally in three or four hours, the reaction may be completed by heating in the oil bath to 280° or 290° F. for
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  - twelve hours ; the mass is left to cool, the solid cake is broken or ground, and dissolved in weak caustic soda. It is well to cause it to boil a long time, for there appears to be formation of a small quantity of resorcine ether. When no more of the residue dissolves, the liquid is filtered, and pre-cipitated by hydrochloric acid ; the precipitate is washed with cold water, and redissolved in the quantity of carbonate of soda necessary, and then evaporated to dryness. This soda sait of benzylated fluoresceine is the colouring matter, chrysoline.
  - Chrysoline appears in mass with a green reflection ; in powder it has a red-brown colour ; it is soluble in water and alkalies ; its solutions, which présent a fine green fluorescence, are precipitated by acids giving yellow flakes. It furnishes dérivatives with iodine, bromine, and nitrogen, all of which are fine colouring matters.
  - Chrysoline fixes directly upon silk and wool. In dyeing wool it is préférable to mordant it beforehand in a bath of acetate of lead and alum. Cotton is mordanted with sulphate of alumina, and dyed warm.
  - The shade of chrysoline yellow resembles that of turmeric ; it resists light very well.
  - Yellow colouring matters are also obtained by replacing the chloride of benzyl with the chlorides, bromides, and iodides of the fatty séries. Methylresorcine, prepared by heating under pressure resorcinate of soda in alcoholic solution with chloride of methyl, gives also a yellow colouring matter.
  - 4. Upon Silk Printing*
  - The caustic potash is rapidly mixed with gum so that the latter may not form a hard mass, when the gum is dissolved the mixture is strained through a wire sieve and applied with the proper précautions. This discharge gives a buff colour
  - * Abridged from the work of M. D. Kœppelin upon this subject. Continued from p. 2^ voi^ iv.
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  - upon a blue ground, if this effect is required, the goods are simply washed, dried, and finished.
  - Bitte and White Discharge.—To obtain the discharged places white, the goods after washing are passed into sulphuric acid sours at 4° Tw., and worked in it until the buff colour due to oxide of iron has entirely disappeared and been replaced by white.
  - Blue Ground with Black, Buff, or White.—One of the steam blacks previously given is printed and steamed, twenty-four hours afterwards the discharge above is printed, and the pièces treated as given above.
  - We may observe here, that when the discharge is for buff, the pièces are kept twenty-four hours after printing the discharge before washing off, but when the white discharge is required, the pièces must be washed off immediately after they have been printed.
  - The caustic potash in the discharge composition deprives the blue of its cyanogen ingrédients and leaves the iron free, which becomes oxidized and fixes upon the stuff. It is easily understood that the longer the pièces are left exposed to the air after discharging, the greater the oxidation which takes place, and the oxide of iron becomes less soluble in acid, hence the différence in the treatments between the buff and white discharge.
  - The production of the blue colour by successive operations of mordanting and dyeing is easy to explain. The oxide of iron mixed with oxide of tin is in the first place fixed upon the fibre, which during the dyeing under the influence of the sulphuric acid, forms Prussian blue, the oxide of tin giving it a spécial purple hue. The sulphuric acid in the dyeing vat contributes to the easy décomposition of the prussiate of potash, and by taking the potash prevents the formation of a kind of soluble Prussian blue, which cannot fix upon the fibre.
  - Orange discharge upon Blue.
  - *Steam annatto orange ............... i gallon.
  - Caustic potash at 60° Tw..................... i 1b.
  - Alum .......................................... 14 lb.
  - * p. 182, vol. iii.
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  - The potash and alum are lightly heated together to form aluminate of potash, which is added to the colour ; if the colour is too thin, gum may be added. After printing, the goods are steamed with the necessary précautions to prevent running of the colour.
  - Styles derived from the Red Woods.—The kind of red wood referred to is called in French Sainte-Marthe, which is similar to the peachwood or sapan wood of the English dyers.
  - Black Ground with Red Discharge.—We give first the dyeing of the foulards in black, supposing that we are operating upon 230 foulards at once. The goods are twice dipped, washing after each dipping in the following mordant :—
  - Black Mordant.
  - Persulphate of iron at 14° Tw........... 12 gallons.
  - Acetate of alumina at 18° Tw............ 3 gallons.
  - The goods should be left three quarters of an hour in the mordant at each dipping. After the second washing, the goods are well rinsed, to remove every particle of loose mordant, and then the dyeing can be proceeded with as follows.
  - Dyeing.—This operation is accomplished at a compara-tively low température, and by successive absorption of the colouring matter by the silk, so that the mordant may be completely saturated.
  - in a proper dyeing vessel, about 272 gallons of red wood extract at 14° Tw. is mixed with from 80 to 100 gallons of water, heated to about 86° F., and the pièces worked in the liquor for half an hour. Then a further quantity of 2 to 272 gallons of red wood extract are added, the température raised to 112° F., and the goods worked for another half hour. Again about 174 gallons of extract are added, the
  - température raised to for another half hour. slightly soaped at 104° the red discharge.
  - 130° F., and the dyeing continued The pièces are then washed and F., washed, dried, and printed with
  - S av s
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  - Red Discharge.
  - Boiling water.............................
  - Oxalic acid ..............................
  - Muriate of tin ...........................
  - British gum ..............................
  - 2 gallons.
  - 2% 1b.
  - 5%lb.
  - 8 1b.
  - This colour is printed, and the goods dried at a moderate heat. The discharge ought to shew its action immediately, and the design appear in crimson on a black ground. The salts in the colour dissolve the iron mordant, and exercise their influence upon the liberated colouring matter, forming with it a crimson lake which adhères to the fibre.
  - Cleansing.—As soon as the silk is dry, twelve or fourteen handkerchiefs at a time are passed in a capacious vessel containing water, heated to 1040 F., to which has been added a small quantity of chalk. The handkerchiefs must be quickly moved about, to prevent the discharge colour marking off upon the black. The use of the chalk is to prevent as much as possible the liability to marking off, by neutralising the excess of acid in the colour at the same time that the thickening is being loosened and dissolved. If there is a beck properly supplied with rollers, it is to be preferred for this operation. The pièces are then washed in running water, and the colours brightened by passing in soap at 1120 F. for fifteen minutes; then washed, and passed for a second time in water made slightly alkaline with ammonia. The colours should now have great bril-liancy ; the goods are finished same as the madder styles.
  - Resist White, Black Ground, and Red Discharge.—The following resist is first printed :—
  - Spirits of turpentine
  - Resin.............
  - Burgundy pitch....
  - Tallow ...........
  - 12 OZ.
  - 16 OZ.
  - 24 OZ.
  - I OZ.
  - The materials are heated together in a pot for five minutes and the mixture preserved in well-closed vessels.
  - The resist is printed in the usual manner, thinning it with spirits of turpentine when it becomes too thick on the sieve cloths.
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  - When the resist is of the proper consistency it gives a good impression, which, when held up to the light, appears quite transparent.
  - The pièces are then dried ; the mordanting, dyeing, and discharge red printing to follow as in the process just given.
  - Styles Derived from Gall Nuts.—The silk is padded with pernitrate of iron at 30° Tw., and the pièces left in rolls for two hours. Then wash and dye black in décoction of gall-nuts, without the addition of any other colouring matter.
  - When the black formed by the gall-nuts is sufficiently deep the goods are washed, dried on the tins, and printed with the following colours :—
  - Scarlet Discharge.
  - Outline red, No. i (p. 124, vol. 2) ... 2 gallons.
  - Crystals of tin ............................ 5 oz.
  - British gum ................................ 1741b.
  - Yellow Discharge.
  - Berry liquor at 14° Tw...................... 4% gallons.
  - White starch................................ 3%4 lb.
  - Thicken, and while hot add Crystals of tin 3}4 lb.
  - And when cold Oxalic acid in powder 174 lb.
  - Green Discharge.
  - Yellow discharge above ..................... I gallon.
  - Sulpho-prussiate of indigo ................. 1 quart.
  - Extract of indigo .......................... 5 oz.
  - Bichloride of tin .......................... 5 oz.
  - The pièces after printing are treated the same as for the red discharge on black just described.
  - Buff Styles from Oxide of Iron —For a plain buff or chamois the silk is padded in persulphate of iron at 700 Tw., and after a while washed ; the process again repeated to obtain a sufficient depth of colour ; then passed in soap, with addition of one-fourth of its weight of crystals of soda, washed, and dried.
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  - Discharge on Buff.—By printing the scarlet discharge (p. 9) a white is obtained. The oxide of iron is dissolved by the oxalic acid after having been partly deoxidized by the tin salts in the discharge. The pièces must then be washed with care, to avoid marking off. Afterwards any of the common steam colours can be entered in, and a variety of effects obtained.
  - Styles Derived from Indigo and Nitric Acid.—We may commence by recalling to mind the powerful action which nitric acid has upon indigo, and the effect it has upon animal matters such as silk and wool, which is quite peculiar, in com-municating to them a yellow colour without changing their texture in an observable manner, provided the action is not too prolonged, the température not too high, or the strength of acid not too great. It is upon the property which nitric acid has of colouring silk yellow that the process of manufacture called mandarining is founded.
  - This process is well described in the Manual of Thillaye ; but the improvements which were introduced by M. Néron, and our own expérience, have enabled us, we believe, to introduce greater regularity into a method which has difficul-ties which still deter many manufacturers from employing it.
  - The colour box used for printing the resist for this style is of different construction to the ordinary one, since the resist must be printed while warm. It is made of copper, with a double bottom, into which steam can be introduced. A false colour is put into this box, and is covered with a piece of fine cloth in a State of tension, which serves as the sieve cloth, upon which the warm resist is spread ; or what is more simple, the box is filled at once with the resist proper, and a moveable framework covered with fine calico instead of cloth is kept by means of screws at the level of the melted resist, and serves as the sieve cloth, the resist penetrating through the calico and furnishing the block.
  - The false colour (or swimmings) mentioned above is com-posed of i part of resin and 2 parts of tallow melted together, and must be kept heated to a température of 140° F. in the colour box.
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- - SILK PJi/NTING. 59
  - Fatty Resist.
  - Resin ........................................ i 1b.
  - Tallow......................................... 1b.
  - Yellow wax ................................... 2 oz.
  - Chalk, in powder ............................. 2 oz.
  - When there are blues to be reserved, the quantity of chalk is doubled. When printed the resist is allowed to fix well on the cloth, and to prevent it running or marking off, it is powdered all over with fine sand. When the resist is dry or well fixed, the silk is treated in the following manner, to obtain an orange ground with white design.
  - Nitric acid at about 40° Tw. is placed in a stone trough provided with two rollers which are made of métal, protected by varnish, and covered with calico ; one of the rollers dips in the acid, and the other above acts as a draw roller ; the piece passing between the rollers becomes evenly impregnated with the acid ; it then proceeds under a guiding roller made of varnished wood, and over a box containing a steam pipe extending the whole length of it, which is equal to the width of the piece of silk being operated upon, and bored with small openings, from which the steam escapes.
  - This steam meets the silk as it is passing over the box, and causes the nitric acid in it to act upon the material, developing a uniform orange colour upon it, excepting in the parts where the resinous reserve has prevented the acid entering into the fibre.
  - The silk proceeds directly into a vessel containing chalk and water, where it is led two or three times up and down, and then goes into a large vat of water, from which it is taken to be well washed. At this stage of the operation the printed silk still shows the presence of the resist, and the orange colour has not the degree of intensity which it should have. To raise the colour and to clear off the resist, the pièces are passed for half-an-hour in a bath of boiling soap, which, for 30 foulards, is composed of
  - Soap.................................. 1 1b.
  - Carbonate of soda
  - 2 oz.
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  - When the colour is sufficiently developed the pièces are washed and dried. The parts printed upon by the resist have not been acted upon by the acid, and remain white, while the ground has acquired a fine orange colour, brilliant and fast.
  - Before speaking of other kinds of this style, of which there are many varieties, we will first point out the composition of the indigo vat used for dyeing silk blue.
  - Indigo Vat for Silk. *
  - Water ............................ 350 gallons.
  - Ground indigo............................... 42 1b.
  - Sulphate of iron ........................... 195 lb.
  - Quick-lime ................................. 130 lb.
  - Commercial potash......................... 3272 lb.
  - The sulphate of iron is dissolved in water before mixing, and the lime is previously slacked. When the whole has been well mixed, the vat is stirred up for six consecutive days for a quarter of an hour each day, and then it is ready for use.
  - We will explain in a few words in what manner it operates. Indigo blue is insoluble in water and in alkalies, but when it is deoxidized and transformed into white indigo it dissolves easily in alkalies. It is, therefore, a deoxidation of the indigo in presence of an alkaline liquid, which has to be accomplished. In the vat above the sulphate of iron is decomposed by the lime, which takes its acid, and its oxide being liberated in contact with the indigo, takes away oxygen from the latter, transforming it into indigo white, which dissolves in the excess of the lime and the potash présent. When pièces are dipped into such a vat they become charged with a solution of white indigo, and when taken out and exposed to the air the indigo absorbs the quantity of oxygen necessary to its retransformation into indigo blue, which becomes fixed upon the fibre.
  - The fatty resists by preventing the tissue of the silk from coming into contact with the solution of indigo produces the same effect as the one indicated in the mandarinin^^ and we
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  - obtain white places wherever the resist has been printed and the ground blue.
  - The dipping of the pièces is made by means of a frame with hooks called a champagne, or by means of a vat with rollers. The clearing off of the reserve is done in the same way as in the last style, by means of boiling soap.
  - We may now enter into the methods of obtaining the various effects resulting from the union of the two operations of mandarining and blue dipping.
  - Blue Design on Orange Ground.—The cloth is dyed blue on the frame, having the vat well stirred up before entering the pièces ; washed and dried cool ; then printed with the resist and passed in nitric acid and cleared as before described.
  - White and Bhie Design on Orange Groîind.—First print the fatty resist for the white, dye blue, wash and dry. Print the resist upon the blue, and treat with nitric acid, etc.
  - White on Dark Green Groimd.—Print the white resist, and treat with nitric acid, etc.; then, without clearing off the resist and without drying the pièces, dye in the blue vat ; wash and clear off in hot soap solution, to take away the resist and raise the shade of the green.
  - White and Blue Design upon Dark Green Ground.—Print the resist, dye a light shade in the vat, wash, and dry. Print again with resist, put through the nitric acid process, wash, and immediately dye dark blue ; wash, and clear in hot soap.
  - White, Blue, and Orange upon Dark Green.—Print the resist, dye light blue, wash, and dry; print resist to protect the light blue, put through the mandarining proçess, wash, and dry. Print resist to preserve the orange, and dye strong blue, wash, and soap.
  - If the nitric acid in the mandarining be mixed with nitrate of iron at about 90° Tw. in various proportions from 25 to 50 per cent, of the acid, according to the shade required, a new séries of effects will be produced with a dark ground.
  - White Design on Chocolaté Ground.—Print with the fatty resist ; dye blue, and dry. Pad twice over in logwood liquor at 3° Tw. Pass through the nitric acid containing nitrate of
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  - iron, then put the pièces in a vat of water for one hour, so that the iron may react upon the logwood, and then soap.
  - Blue Design on Chocolaté Ground.—Dye blue, wash, and dry. Print on the resist, and pad in logwood. Pass through the nitric acid, and wash as before indicated, and lastly soap.
  - Blue and White Design on Chocolaté Ground.—Print the resist, dye blue, wash, and dry. Print again resist to protect blue, and pad in logwood liquor; pass through the nitric acid, leave in water one hour, and lastly pass in soap and soda.
  - Orange Discharge on Indigo Blue.—The action of nitric acid is utilised by printing upon the blue dyed stuff a colour composed as follows :—
  - Discharging Colour.
  - Water .............................................. 2 1b.
  - Starch ............................................. 2 oz.
  - Boil, cool, and add
  - Nitric acid at 66° Tw...................... 3 oz.
  - After printing, and when the pièces are dry, they are passed over a current of steam as in mandarining ; then washed and passed in soap and soda to raise the colour.
  - Indian Style.—This style consists in a yellow or green ground with a black or red design, and two methods are employed for its production. The first and cheaper method is easy and quick, and resembles the steam styles. The second method, in which indigo and madder replace the red woods and Prussian blue, gives better results as far as regards the fastness of the colours.
  - First Process—Dyeing in Yellow.—The goods are bleached as for the madder style, then mordanted in alumina as
  - follows :—
  - Acetate of alumina at 10° Tw................. 772 gallons
  - Protochloride of tin.......................... 1}4 1b.
  - The goods are left in the mordant twelve hours, then washed and dyed either in weld or in quercitron bark, to which a portion of Persian berries is added. For 550 foulards there may be used—
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  - Quercitron extract at 12° Tw........................ 9 1b.
  - Berry liquor at 14° Tw.............................. 3 1b.
  - When the colour has acquired a proper degree of intensity, which takes place in about forty-five minutes at a température of 120° F., the goods are washed, dried on the tins, and printed in the following order:—(i) Steam black, (2) Indian red or green; the colours being some of those previously given, then steamed for fifty minutes and washed. It is usual to pass the pièces after washing for five minutes in cold bichromate of potash. This treatment is not indispensable, but it gives a little more solidity to the colours owing to the oxidation of the colouring matter, which is due to the action of the bichromate of potash.
  - Second Process.—The silks in this process are first printed with the mordants for the madder colours, which are after-wards dyed in the usual way. To preserve the parts intended to be white from the indigo vat and also the reds, they are covered by printing on the fatty resist; the goods are then dyed in the indigo vat, and after clearing and washing are mordanted for yellow and dyed in bark as before, washed, dried, and finished.
  - The Cochineal Style.—Cochineal with an alumina mordant dyes a brilliant crimson upon silk which resists the action of soap, acids, and light in the same manner as colours derived from madder. The silk is prepared in the same way as for the madder styles, and the following mordant printed on.
  - Crimson Mordant.
  - Water.................................. 134 gallons.
  - Alum.................................• 12 1b.
  - Dissolve the alum in the water and add
  - Acetate of lead....................... 10 lb.
  - Mix the whole well together until perfect décomposition of the two salts has taken place, allow the sulphate of lead to settle, take 4 lb. of the clear and thicken with 14 oz. powdered gum, and add 74 oz. of crystals of tin. After printing the pièces are hung up to age for forty-eight hours in a warm and
  - E
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  - moist room, and afterwards for twenty-four hours in a warm and dry room.
  - Cleansing of the Mordanted Goods.—In a wooden vat of the capacity of about 20 gallons, dissolve and mix the following :—
  - Bichromate of potash .................. 12 oz.
  - Arsenate of potash .................... 4 oz.
  - Chalk.......................................... 2 1b.
  - Bran .......................................... 8 1b.
  - Heat the liquid to 115° F., and then pass in 35 foulards work-ing them about until the gum is dissolved. The action of the bran, which has been previously described, is augmented by the addition of the other salts which fix upon the stuff all the alumina with which it can combine.
  - The pièces are then washed, and receive a second passage in bran water alone at 100° F., and washed again.
  - Dyeing in Cochineal.—In a vat containing about 16 gallons of water, there is placed a freshly-made décoction of 2 1b. of cochineal, to which is added 2 oz. of powdered gall-nuts and 2 1b. of bran. This is sufficient for 35 foulards. The température at the commencement should be about 100° F, raised during the first half hour to 1300, in the second to 150°, then to 180°, and even as high as 200° F., if it is required to obtain a good shade, which is ascertained by washing the end of a piece in warm water and forcibly wringing it. A good dyer can tell at a glance with certainty whether the colour is good or not. Afterwards the pièces are washed, passed in boiling bran water, again washed, and finished like madder work.
  - Black and Crimson.—The outline black and the crimson mordant are printed, the dyeing being the same as for crimsons. When the design requires large masses of black, it is better to print steam black after dyeing and steam, there is less risk of injuring the crimson by this method.
  - White Resist on Cinnamon Ground, with Crimson, Orange, Black, or Chocolaté.—Print the fatty resist or the white resist for black. Pad or print the crimson mordant, age and cleanse as before ; dye in cochineal, bran, wash and dry up. The silk now has a crimson ground, white objects, and can
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  - now be printed with steam black or chocolaté. Then the following orange colour :—
  - Orange.
  - Thick gum water....................................... i gallon.
  - Berry liquor at 140° B................................ i gallon.
  - Crystals of Tin....................................... 2 1b.
  - Fix by steaming ; wash and finish as the madder styles. The black printed on préserves its forms. The parts printed with orange will be partly pure orange and partly crimson coloured. That is, where the orange has fallen upon the reserved white parts it remains orange, but where it has fallen upon the crimson ground it forms an agreeable chestnut or cinnamon colour.
  - When logwood is used in the dyeing instead of cochineal, a purple is obtained in the place of the crimson, and printing with annatto, orange or Persian berry, orange analogous effects are produced.
  - Buff Ground, with Crimson Object.—Print the mordant for crimson, dye in cochineal, pass in bran, and dye in a bath of annatto containing only a small quantity of colouring matter.
  - [To be continuedl\
  - 5. Upon a New Colouring Matter. BY A. W. HOFMANN.*
  - Some months ago in communicating to the society a notice upon the composition and structure of chrysoidin, I pointed out what profits the colour industry might be expected to dérivé from the labours of Griess, and that the power of fixing amine, amide, and even phénol opened the way to the discovery of an almost endless sériés of new bodies, and that many of the new compounds thus produced were colouring matters as the aniline yellow (azodiphenyldiamin) of Griess and Martius and the chrysoidin of Caro and Witt, so that in
  - * Condensed from Berichte de Deut. Gessel, July 23rd, 1877, p. 1,378.
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  - fact a new and apparently boundless field was opened to manufacturers. That this field is being explored with vigour is évident from some researches of which I now make a brief communication to the society.
  - Some days ago H. Martins, whose friendliness keeps me au courant with every thing new which appears in the colour making industry, gave me several uninvestigated dyestuffs which have lately been offered in trade.
  - One of these substances as I received it was a light red coloured crystalline powder, the hue of which recalled to mind the fiery brilliancy of iodide of mercury ; another, distinctly crystalline, possessed a bright violet colour, so that without closely examining it one might have thought it was the peach-bloom coloured chloride of chromium.
  - The red substance is the soda sait of an organic acid mixed with an inconsiderable quantity of alumina. It dissolves pretty largely in hot water, less freely in hot alcohol, the solution having a deep brownish red colour. The solutions by cooling crystallize with a fine red colour, tending to orange. The sait is insoluble in ether. It withstands a tolerably high température without decomposing ; at a sufficiently high température it swells out strongly, almost like the Pharoah serpents, and leaves behind a carbonaceous mass extremely difficult to burn.
  - To isolate the acid the product was dissolved in boiling alcohol, and the solution decomposed by concentrated hydro-chloric acid. By cooling the dark violet coloured solution deposited very fine red needles, which retained with tenacity a quantity of minerai matter, and it was only by repeated recrystallizations from alcohol and hydrochloric acid that at length the substance was obtained free from incombustible matters.
  - The pure colouring matter then shewed as beautiful brown-red needles, which were tolerably easily soluble in water, but still easier dissolved by alcohol, and insoluble in ether. Free alkalies and ammonia dissolve them easily with a brown colour ; from these solutions the colouring matter is pre-cipitated in the crystalline form by addition of acid, and the
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- - NOTES FROM MULHOUSE. 67 solution assumes a deep violet colour. The colouring matter contains nitrogen and sulphur. The analysis of the substance dried at 100° C., and controlled by the analysis of the silver and barium salts, agreed with the formula C16 H12 N. SO4.
  - The interprétation of this analysis and formula was not difficult ; there could be no doubt that this was a similarly constituted body to chrysoidin, and might be built up in several ways, the simplest materials for which appeared to be sulphonaphthalic acid C10 H8 SO, and diazobenzol C6 H, N., which together make up the formula of the new body ; and in fact experiment soon showed that by the action of diazobenzol upon the alpha-sulphonaphthalic acid the new orange red body was obtained.
  - The sulphonaphthalic acid was obtained by Schaeffer’s method of digesting napthalin with concentrated sulphuric acid in a water bath ; the lead sait next obtained was treated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and the liberated acid after concentration saturated with carbonate of soda. When the solution of this sait was mixed with a solution of nitrate of aniline and nitrite of potash there was immédiate formation of dark red precipitate, possessing remarkable tinctorial powers, but still impure.
  - To purify it it was dissolved in ammonia. A quantity of tarry matter was left behind undissolved. Heated with acid a purer substance was obtained, which, by several crystalliza-tions from a boiling mixture of hydrochloric acid and alcohol, finally yielded the beautiful hair-like needles which were obtained from the commercial article.
  - 6. Notes from Mulhouse
  - The Mulhouse Bulletin for July and August, just to hand, contains very little that is new concerning textile colouring. The paucity of matter offering has led the editors, contrary to their usual practice, to insert previously published papers, and
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  - we find in this number the article upon Chlorate of Chromium, by Depièrre and Tatarinoff, which first appeared in this journal (April, 1877). It is followed by a report written by M. Albert Scheurer, but the reporter has nothing to correct, and nothing of any value to add on the subject. As an historical matter, we may give the contents of a sealed note deposited in 1855 by M. E. Mathieu-Plessy, and opened in 1876. It refers to a proposed plan of obtaining an olive green from chromium salts along with dyed work.
  - " It is well known,” says the writer, " that the number of colours which can be printed at the same time as the mordants of alumina and iron to be dyed in madder is very limited.” The author has succeeded, after many trials, in combining an olive from chromium with these colours. It is
  - prepared as follows :—
  - Bichromate of potash ..................... 41b.
  - Arsenious acid............................ 3 1b. 15 oz.
  - Sulphuric acid at 169° Tw................. 3 1b. 3 oz.
  - Water .................................... 8 1b.
  - " These quantities will yield one gallon of liquid which, without any thickening, is to be printed upon calico which has been previously padded in a solution of acetate of potash at 14° Tw. The black which is to be printed at the same time as this colour is rather different to the ordinary black. The red and other colours are the same as usual.” The
  - black is composed as follows :—
  - Acetate of iron ............................... 134 gallons.
  - Arsenite of soda containing 5 Ibs. arsenic per gallon 3 lb.
  - Pyroligneous acid .......................... 3 lb.
  - British gum.................................15 lb.
  - Tar ........................................ 3 lb.
  - " After printing age for three or four days, fix in a bath at 122° F., containing two per cent, of caustic ammonia and one per cent, of silicate of soda. Dye in garancine, not going to a higher température than 122° F. ; clear as usual. The chief points of difficulty encountered- by the author in the process were (ist) obtaining the green dark enough, (2nd) to
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  - prevent acting upon the black and red, where the green touched these colours, and (3rd) to find a suitable fixing liquor.”
  - Several other sealed packets of old date were opened, some of which are announced for publication, while others were deposited in the archives of the Society.
  - 7. Note upon the Treatment and Dyeing of Textile Matters P BY E. DURWELL.
  - Of Textile Matters in General.—Textile material is the terni understood for all substances, animal or vegetable, which can be spun and woven so as to give a thread or a cloth sufficiently consistent for the purposes it is intended to fulfil. The number of textile substances is very great. From the spinner’s and weaver’s point of view, all these bodies resemble each other except in the matter of the mechanical treatments necessary. From a Chemical point of view it is quite other-wise. The composition of many of these bodies varies considerably, and their properties are different.
  - The three types of textile materials are, wool, silk, and cotton. There are others which resemble these three in composition, which may be classified as follows :—-
  - Wool. Silk. Cotton.
  - Hair. Wild silk. Flax.
  - Hemp.
  - We shall only treat of the matters named above, for they are the only ones which have a considérable use in manufactures.
  - * From the Moniteur delà Teinture, June 5th and I2th, 1877, taken from the Bulletin de la Société Chemique, according to a foot note which does not give any further reference. The matter is superficial, and not always accurate ; but from some points it is interesting, and we have thought it worth translating and insertion in the Textile Colourist.—Ed.
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  - In dyeing the textile materials have four principal treat-ments, (i) preliminary treatment, (2) bleaching, (3) dyeing, (4) finishing. The preliminary treatment consists in removing from the textile matters other foreign matters not useable as textiles. This usually précédés the spinning and weaving.
  - The bleaching takes place only after spinning or weaving. Its aim is to remove all impurities which may have been introduced into the fibres during their mechanical treatment, and to clear out those which were not removed by the preliminary treatment.
  - The dyeing follows the bleaching. This operation consists in fixing upon the yarn or cloth one or more colouring matters, so as to obtain the colour, hue, and fastness of colour desired. Fibres may be dyed in the wool or in the piece, that is, either before or after weaving.
  - The finishing consists in fixing substances upon the yarn or cloth which give brilliance and consistency.
  - Of Wool and Hair.—Wool as it cornes from the animal is a nitrogenized organic matter, containing a small quantity of sulphur. It is covered with an obnoxious greasy matter called the yolk (suint). This substance is almost completely oxidized, or, to speak more explicitly, it is in a rancid state. Other hairs, such as goats’ hair, camels’ hair, etc., have a similar composition, but do not contain so much yolk as sheeps’ wool.
  - All the processes used to separate the yolk from the wool are based upon the saponification of the greasy matters in it. The wool is treated by soda and washed. The fatty matter removed is utilized by converting it into a lime soap. The wool may be in the first instance treated with oil, the saponification is then more complété. The yolk being oxidized as it issues from the pores of the animal, and especially after long contact with the air in the fleece, I endeavoured to deoxidize it by means of nascent hydrogen. With wool so treated the saponification was very perfectly accomplished. I11 order to destroy foreign matters contained in the wool such as burrs, thistles, or straw, it is steeped in dilute sulphuric acid and gently heated ; the vegetable matter
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- - WOOL BLEACHING. 71 becomes carbonized, but the wool is always a little acted upon.
  - Bleacking of Wool.—Before dyeing wool must be bleached either woven or unwoven. For unspun wool the fleece is placed in a bath of boiling soap and water, washed and finished by a treatment with dilute sulphuric acid.
  - Woven woollens are caused to pass under wooden rollers plunged in a bath of boiling soap, being careful to avoid creases and folds, which would cause injuries after drying, rendering the piece unsaleable.
  - After soaping, the piece is drawn through clean water, and then receives a weak brightening treatment.
  - The permanganate of potash treatment is quite satisfactory, but demands much care. The cloth is passed in a bath of water containing ï 1b. of permanganate to 2 gallons of water ; when all the permanganate necessary to oxidize the impurities is reduced to peroxide of manganèse the cloth is passed into a boiling bath composed of
  - Water ........................................... 100 parts.
  - Bisulphite of soda ................................ 8 parts.
  - Hydrochloric acid ................................. 4 parts.
  - The cloth being thus bleached is washed in boiling water; in rare cases it may be necessary to repeat that operation.
  - In the treatment of woollen goods all copper utensils must be avoided ; they are nearly always the cause of disagreeable accidents. In employing the apparatus known as an " exten-der,” in which the piece passes over copper rollers immersed in boiling soap, I have invariably observed, notwithstanding the perfect cleanness of the apparatus, stains and brown patches due to the combination of the copper and the sulphur of the wool favoured by the alkaline liquid. To recognise these copper stains it is sufficient to pass the cloth into a solution of chloride of tin ; if the stain be owing to copper, it will assume the colour of metallic copper.
  - To remove these copper stains from wool I pass the pièces in a boiling bath containing 100 parts of cyanide of potassium for 2,500 parts of water, brighten, and wash.
  - Dyeing of Wool.—It is not our aim to describe particular
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  - processes as employed in this or that dyeworks, but to give a general idea of wool dyeing.
  - Wool is dyed at boiling heat. Several authors have sup-posed that the greater or less aptitude which textile matters have for taking or retaining colouring matters dépends upon the numbers, size, and distribution of the pores, and their proportions with the colouring particles.
  - in strongly aluming, 500 parts of wool and 500 parts of silk, it is found that to obtain the same intensity of colour by dyeing it is necessary to take—
  - For 500 parts of silk, 76 parts of cochineal.
  - For 500 parts of wool, 30 parts of cochineal.
  - As regards mordants, wool and silk are similar, with the single différence that wool is dyed very hot and silk cool, when the latter is mordanted (G. van Laer.) Cotton dyes in the cold, evidently because its pores are smaller. But the mordant aside, the question should be considered in another manner, for there is, besides cohésion, another cause ; there is frequently Chemical affinity, especially with the coal-tar colours. Often, however, a mordant is required. In that case it is not the textile fibre which acts, it is the mordant. The fibre acts only as a ground, it is the mordant which combines with the colouring matter.
  - Wool and woolly hair when it is bleached is ready for dyeing.
  - To dye wool with the salts of the bases derived from coaltar it is necessary to use the bath boiling, and in an acid condition with salts of rosaniline, salts of violaniline, soluble blues, etc. It is necessary that the colouring matter, which is the sait of the base, and not the base, should reform within the pores of the wool. The iodine green which is decomposed by contact with acid cannot be used with an acidulated bath. For this colour it suffices to employ a neutral sait of one of the alkaline earths, such as sulphate of magnesia, and to dye at the boil. This sait yields up a part of its acid to the wool, and the dyeing may be successfully accomplished.
  - The wood extracts should not be added to an acid bath
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  - unless it is desired to obtain some distinct effect. Wool has the property of absorbing all their colouring matters without the intervention of other substances. - It is well known that wool absorbs very easily catechu, and generally all varieties of tannin matters.
  - In piece dyeing the smallest quantity of colouring matter possible must be employed, and the liquid maintained at the boiling heat to avoid stains. The baths should be kept clean, especially for light shades, for wool has a powerful tendency to combine with minerai salts, especially in the presence of acid ; this is easily proved by placing acidulated wool in contact with copper, iron, bismuth, etc., or with salts of these metals. Wool dyeing must as much as possible be carried out in wood vats at the bottoms of which the steam pipes of tinned copper are placed. Copper dye vessels so much used should be rejected.
  - Other hairs are dyed exactly in the same way, taking précautions when they are in the fleece against felting and curling-.
  - ©
  - Silk and Wild Silk.—The silk contained in the phaelena bombyx is liquid and gummy ; it hardens as it is forced out by the animal, and allows a yellow, waxy matter to exude which covers the fibre like a varnish. The substance com-posing the solidified silk is called fibroin (Pelouze and Frémy). The waxy matter is called the gum.
  - The fibroin is soluble in hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, and very concentrated hyponitric acid, and also in cupro-ammonium liquor; it appears to be a true organic base.
  - By acidulating water with about i per cent, of the sulphuric acid, and adding a certain quantity of litmus the liquid is distinctly red. Let a quantity of silk be purified by washing the already boiled off and bleached silk with boiling alcohol and boiling distilled water, it will be found that in this state the silk always shews an alkaline reaction, turning the red litmus to blue.
  - By heating the silk in the litmus solution the colouring matter is absorbed, and the silk is not dyed red but blue; the acid has evidently been neutralized by the silk. The dyeing
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  - 74 stops when all the acid has been absorbed and the excess of litmus left in the liquor changes to blue, it having become neutral. By treating the dyed silk with boiling water con-taining about i per cent, of caustic soda it is immediately decolourized. By dyeing a further quantity of purified silk in a i per cent, solution of neutral sulphate of magnesia contain-ing neutral litmus and boiling it, the litmus is absorbed and the liquor remains blue.
  - Fibroin dissolves in concentrated hydrochloric acid, and the solution left to evaporate spontaneously in the air becomes of a syruppy consistence. This matter when treated by boiling alcohol and evaporated leaves a horny, semi-transparent substance, nearly neutral, which is a combination of the hydrochloric acid with the silk. It has the property of ab-sorbing the coal-tar colouring matters the same as silk passed in an acid solution of the same colours. I go no further than setting forth these two conclusive experiments, and do not attempt to draw from them any theory, for any hypothesis deduced would be on too small a basis. But it seems proved that the presence of an acid is nearly always necessary in silk dyeing.
  - Treatment of Silk before Dyeing.—To préparé silk for dyeing the gummy matters must be removed. To effect this the silk is treated in a boiling bath of 25 parts of soap to 100 of water, and kept in it for several hours ; the soap is then found to be completely decomposed, it loses its syruppy consistence and its property of frothing, while a part of the oil floats above.
  - It would be decidedly préférable to pass a boiling solution of soap through the silk properly packed in an aspirator. On the small scale this plan succeeds, and with a saving in soap.
  - Silken tissues are submitted to the same operation with the only différence that they are suspended from wooden frames and dipped in the bath of boiling soap. In either state the silk is afterwards washed and finished. For whites and for receiving fine colours the bleaching is finished by a passage in the sulphuring stove. Sulphuric acid often forms in the sulphuring chambers owing to an excessive degree of humidity
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- - COTTON TREATMENTS. 75
  - and exposure to air; these two defects must therefore be avoided.
  - The process of bleaching by means of bisulphite of soda is very expéditions, but the results are not so good. A bath may be prepared with
  - 10 parts bisulphite of soda.
  - 6 parts hydrochloric acid.
  - 100 parts water.
  - The bath is used slightly heated, and the silk passed through it.
  - Dyeing.—Silk dyeing is the same as wool dyeing. Woods take at the boil either with or without presence of acid.
  - Silk possesses in a very high degree the property of absorb-ing tannin, and it is in conséquence one of the materials used for weighting silk. ,
  - The salts of the coal-tar bases dye in a boiling acidulated bath, but Magdala pink and iodine green do not require any acid.
  - Wild silk, which is coming more into use every day, has the property of being soluble in alkalies. In making some dyeing experiments with cloth of wild silk I used safflower in boiling soap solution, but the cloth fell to pièces, I might almost say it dissolved.
  - The dyeing of wild silk is the same as that of ordinary Silk; it does not, however, yield colours so good.
  - Of Cottony Flax, and Hemp.—Cotton is nearly pure cellulose; the other vegetable fibres, after retting and bleaching, are nothing but cellulose, of which the fibres are more com-pressed than those of cotton ; they have therefore the same Chemical properties, but their dyeing is more difficult on account of their smaller degree of porousness.
  - The question of the animalisation of cotton, which some years ago went the round of all dyeworks, is a Utopia. To couvert cotton into silk is just as impossible as for a chemist to make a grain of wheat out of phosphate of lime, starch, and gluten. Silk will never be made except with silk. By putting a solution of silk upon cotton, as in Muller’s patent, there is no animalisation of it. By putting albu-
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  - men, caseine, gélatine, or tannin, or mixtures of these substances upon cotton, the cotton is mordanted and nothing more. It has been shewn lately that gun cotton can absorb the colouring matters of the coal-tar class, but it does not follow that because a non-azotised substance transformed into an azotised one possesses some properties which belong to silk that therefore it should have all its other properties. I conclude by saying that cotton requires a mordant, if even silk be dissolved and fixed upon cotton, or any other body, it is always as a mordant. There are some substances absorbed by cotton without the intervention of a mordant as, for example, catechu, phosphine, a yellow colouring matter derived from coal-tar, and several other yellow and brown colours of the same class.
  - By passing cotton through a bath composed of dextrine mixed with Hoffmann’s purple, or with fuchsine, it becomes immediately dyed. Does the dextrine here act as a mordant or as a thickening ?
  - Tannin is the true mordant for the aniline colours upon cotton. It précipitâtes them all, and it is that property which gives it its power of mordanting, in addition to which it fixes itself very easily upon cotton.
  - Mixed Silk and Cotton Goods.—I will speak briefly of cotton and silk mixtures, which have become the object of an extensive branch of dyeing.
  - At first the question seems very simple to dye cotton and silk at the same time, but I have already shewn that these two fibres are chemically distinct substances, and possess different properties.
  - The goods are first singed by passing over cast-iron cylinders heated to a cherry red heat. They are afterwards cleansed in a bath of boiling soap, in the same way as silk goods.
  - The soluble blue and Hoffmann’s purple are the two coaltar colours which are the most unequally absorbed by cotton and silk. Sometimes the silk is too light, and sometimes the cotton, more generally the cotton. If a piece of the mixed fibres be placed in a cold bath of soluble blue, the silk
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  - absorbs the colouring matter while the cotton remains untouched. If again another piece be first treated by a bath of tannin and then by a bath of gélatine, the gélatine becomes precipitated and fixed. By passing such a treated cloth into soluble blue, both fibres take the colour equally. In this case the cotton is mordanted.
  - Soluble blues are generally fixed upon these mixed tissues as follows:—The cloth is passed into a bath containing 2 parts of tannin to 100 parts of water in the cold ; next pass into the blue containing a little tannin. The cotton will be found to have absorbed the colouring matter in the same degree as the silk. It is necessary not to have more than a small quantity of blue in the dyebath at one time. To dye the Hoffmann purple the tissue is passed in a very strong solution of tannin, which, by refreshing with tannin every time it is used, may serve for several operations, and after-wards into a very weak bath of the colouring matter. The piece must be worked for a long time in the liquor to obtain a satisfactory resuit. With this précaution, and by well mordanting the cloth, the cotton can be dyed a dark shade. it is seen that while tannin has the property of mordanting the cotton, it deprives the silk of its power of absorbing colouring matters, as may be proved by the following experi-ment. Pass the mixed tissue in a cold concentrated bath of tannin made with 100 parts water and 30 parts tannin ; after-wards pass into pyrolignite of iron, and lastly into a bath of logwood and chestnut bark ; the cotton takes an intense black, while the silk has only become yellowish. In the goods called “ Chinas,” where the silk is in mixture with the cotton, after dyeing the black as above, the silk being lighter than the cotton, communicates to it a lustre which makes the cloth more brilliant than otherwise it would be. For other goods a piece dyed black as above, can be passed into a coaltar colour, and the silk dyed a bright colour, the black cotton beneath giving it a rich appearance. To dye these goods with iodine green, they are mordanted in sumach or in tannin, and passed into a cold bath of the colouring matter, to which some tannin is added.
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - Fuchsine or magenta fixes in the cold upon a tannin mordant. The dyeing must be always done cold, and the smallest possible amount of colouring matter added.
  - Blacks upon these mixed silk goods are well dyed by mor-danting in pyrolignite of iron, well washing and dyeing as for cotton, avoiding always a too great excess of tannin matters, which injure the silk, and observing that the dyeing must be done cold.
  - The steaming of these goods give very good results. The cotton becomes darker and the silk becomes more brilliant; the greens become bluer instead of yellower as is the case by dry heat; with the soluble blues the cotton becomes redder and the silk greener.
  - This sketch, as it will have been observed, is very incomplète, it is not a treatise upon dyeing. I have endeavoured in this collection of notes to connect together in a practical manner the various textile materials, and trust to be able at another time to enlarge upon this interesting branch of the applied sciences, dyeing.
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  - This work from the pen of Mr. Thomson is, we learn from the préfacé, an amplification of a lecture he delivered recently at the Society of Arts, London. The textile colourist is in general little concerned with warp sizing, which is for him only a subordinate operation in the weaving of calico, but there are occasions when it becomes a point of vital interest to the bleacher, dyer, and printer, to know what has been used in the operation of sizing, for it sometimes happens that defects in colour can only be attributed to an imperfect re-moval of the sizing from the cloth dyed or printed ; this may
  - * “The Sizing of Cotton Goods, and the Causes and Prévention of Mildew.” By Wm. Thomson, F. R. S., Edin., F.C.S., Lond. Manchester, Palmer and Howe; London, Simpkin, Marshall, & Co.
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- - THOMSON ON SIZING CALICO.
  - 79
  - be the fault of the bleacher, who has not used proper means of cleansing the cloth, or it may be the fault of the sizer, who has employed ingrédients in the size which ordinary bleaching will not take out. It is not within our province, in this journal, to treat of sizing further than it concerns the after operations to which the sized cloth is submitted in the operations of bleaching and dyeing, and we are happy not to have to consider the “moral bearings,” as Mr. Thomson has it, of sizing to give weight. The simplest and most innocent size gives difficulty enough to the bleacher, and requires him to prolong his boilings hours upon hours to thoroughly remove it from the warp threads, none of it is left in the bleached cloth (or none of it should be left in) which is used for printing or dyeing. To size cloth intended for such purposes with the intention of increasing its weight and im-proving its feel temporarily, may have “moral” or “immoral bearings,” that is a question, but there is no doubt that there is something like hopeless imbecility on the side of either the maker or the buyer of such weighted cloth. On page 195 Mr. Thomson refers to the use of paraffin wax in sizing, and shews that it and similar substances ought not be used for sizing cloth for dyeing or printing. In the pages of this journal it has been shewn that the use of unsaponifiable waxy matters has led to inconvenience and that it probably would again. Some manufacturers consider that the use of paraffin wax instead of tallow in the size gives considérable advantage, there is no economy in price, and it is only used because better cloth can be made by its means. It is said also that scores of thousands of pièces made from warp sized with size containing paraffin wax have been printed and dyed without complaint, this is doubtless so, but as M. Ch. Benner bas shewn with regard to Japan wax (Textile Colourist, i., P- 102), there is always a danger of damage arising from the use of such substances. It must not be forgotten that neither tallow nor wax dissolve in the hot size, they are only in a finely divided state, and with regard to either, and especially to waxes of a comparatively high melting point, they may easily separate from the size by standing or by
  - F
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  - cooling, or some such accident, and particles get upon the threads, which are then melted in by the drying, and so fixed that common bleaching will not take the matter ont. In a given case i 1b. of paraffin wax is spread over 330 1b. of calico, if it is perfectly evenly spread, it is difficult to suppose it would be found injurions to any colours. It is in being unevenly spread that the danger exists. Mr. Thomson’s work goes into very minute detail upon all the materials used in sizing, and the apparatus necessary for the proper Chemical examination and testing of them. It will certainly prove useful and valuable to a great number of merchants and manufacturers engaged in the cotton trade.
  - Testing Flavine for Turmeric.—In a recent number of the Farber Zeitung Dr. Reimann States that flavine has been found fraudulently mixed with turmeric, which has consi-derably less value in the market. The détection of this adultération is not difficult, since flavine dyes only upon a mordant and turmeric is one of the so-called substantive colours which does not require a mordant. To test for turmeric in flavine it is therefore sufficient to make a hot solution of the suspected matter and introduce into it some unmordanted cotton yarn. If turmeric be présent the yarn is soon dyed of a characteristic yellow colour, quite different in shade and intensity from the faint colour which such cotton takes from unmixed flavine.
  - s s
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  - A.D. 1876, November 25th— No. 4577.
  - Lake, William Robert. " Improvements in the Application of Certain Salts and Soaps for the Préparation of Threads and Fabrics to give them Stiffness, Render them Imperméable, and Improve their Appearance.” (A communication from Clatide Garnier, of Lyons, France.)
  - " This invention relates to the préparation of threads and
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  - • fabrics of varions kinds and of any shades or color in such a manner as to give them stiffness and impermeability, and an appearance superior to that presented in their primitive or natural condition, by swelling or thickening their fibres. For this purpose I employ varions salts and soaps, as hereinafter described.
  - “The salts and soaps which are preferably employed in practising this invention are the following, namely, the alka-line bistearates, alkaline * bioléates, alkaline bimargarates, alkaline bipalmitates, and alkaline biresinates, and the neutral metallic salts of the aforesaid varions acids and formed by alumina, magnesia, zinc, lead, and the like, that is to say, uncolored metallic salts soluble in different vehicles, or which can be formed on fibre by double décomposition by means of two preparatory baths.
  - “The alkaline bisalts are very translucent, insoluble in water, easily soluble in benzine, essential oils, alchols, sulphide of carbon, and the like ; consequently they are easily applicable to threads or fabrics by the ordinary manipulation. They give all the désirable rigidity when employed in sufficient quantity ; they also render the material sufficiently imperméable to prevent the soiling or spotting of the fabric by rain ; being translucent they do not injure the most délicate colors ; and not being fusible, except in a température above 100° centigrade, they do not become softened by the heat of the sun, and the fabrics which are impregnated with them are dustproof. They have thus imparted to them all the desired qualifies for an excellent imperméable préparation.
  - “The ammoniacal bisalts are generally very easy to préparé ; do not reduce the colors like free fatty acids, and it is these that are employed most frequently for silk fabrics, principally for taffetas, serges, handkerchiefs, and the like.
  - “ I would also observe that neutral ammoniacal salts which are soluble in water are easily transformable by heat in insoluble bisalts. In many cases I may employ an aqueous solution of these neutral salts, which by the ordinary prépara-’ tion will give the required bisalt. This solution is employed especially for light dressing, with the object of thickening the
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  - fibre, without producing great stiffness or impermeability, and for what is termed false dressing.
  - " For stronger dressings it is necessary to dissolve the bisalts in benzine, essential oil, sulphide of carbon, alcohol, and the like, in such a manner as to fix the product more effectually on the thread or fabric. The quantity employed varies according to circumstances, and dépends more especially upon, first, the results desired to be obtained, that is to say, the strength and quality of the dressing ; second, the nature of the sait employed for this dressing or préparation ; third, the quality and nature of the stuff ; fourth, the color of the said stuff. For black taffetas and the like I usually employ in dry bistearate of ammonia from 60 oz. to 250 oz. for each quart of the dressing. For colored stuffs, especially those with clear colors or shades, the quantity is less, and is reduced to about 12 oz. to 90 oz. per quart.
  - “I may mix divers of the above-named salts and apply them together for obtaining a dressing or préparation of any determined quality.
  - " In some instances, especially with regard to impermeability and principally with black stuffs, I may employ the following, namely, paraffine, spermacetti, vegetable, or Japa-nese wax, minerai or fossil wax, or the like, dissolved in benzine or other suitable solvent. In this case I seek for substances having a high fusion point, to avoid the settling of dust which would resuit from softening by the heat of the sun ; these substances are specially applicable to black silk stuffs and similar materials.
  - " For colored stuffs I prefer to employ almost exclusively those bisalts above specified, which alone permit of obtaining results not hitherto produced.
  - " For rendering the material imperméable and giving a suitable stiffness thereto by means of metallic soaps, such as the oleates and stéarates of alumina, I proceed either by means of a single bath with a suitable solution of soap in an appropriate vehicle, or by forming these salts on the stuff by double décomposition by means of two baths. The first is given with a solution of bistearate of ammonia, for example,
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- - ALEXANDER: SEPARATION O F WOOL.
  - in benzine, and the second with an aqueous solution of acetate of alumina ; the latter can be obtained by pulverization.
  - " I can also render the material sufficiently imperméable to prevent soiling by rain, especially for silk handkerchiefs, silk and woollen stuffs, and silk and cotton stuffs, by the follow-ing treatment, that is to say, I provide a preparatory bath of a suitable consistency with haï-thuo or gelose, fucus crispus, alge of various kinds, and lichens, and I add to these a concentrated solution of pure acetate of alumina. In this case the drying in the air or airing, the passage of the stuff to the heated drums, and the action of the vegetable acids, fucus, algœ, or lichens will expel the acetic acid of the acetate, so as to produce insoluble sub-salts of alumina, which do not easily become wet or moist, and thus form préparations of Sufficient impermeability.
  - " I may also employ gum and glue mixed with acetate of alumina, but in this case the results obtained by the free alumina or by the sub-acetates are not so perfect, and it is préférable to use the above-named vegetable substances con-taining natural organic acids, such as lichen, stearic and pectic acids, and the like, or acids formed by modification of the pectic products of these substances, as then the acetic acid of the acetate can be expelled more easily by heat in obtain-ing insoluble salts of alumina.
  - " Having thus fully described the said invention, as com-municated to me by my foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood that I daim the employment of the above specified various salts or soaps for giving to threads and textile fabrics of all kinds and of all shades or colors stiffness and impermeability, and an appearance superior to that presented by them in their primitive or natural condition, by swelling or thickening the fibres, while at the same time ensuring a permanent effect of the dyeing, as above set forth.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 27th.-No. 4580.
  - Alexander, Edwin Powley. " Improvements in Appa-ratus or Means to be employed in the Treatment of Woolen,
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - 84
  - one the the top the
  - Silk, and Mixed Fabrics or Goods with a View to the Destruction of any Vegetable Fibres or Substances con-tained therein.” A communication from Daniel Michel, of Paris. ( This invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - " This invention relates to further improvements in the invention for which Letters Patent were granted to me on or about the 25th of November, 1875, No. 4088, and also on the invention for which I obtained provisional protection on or about the 17th of July last, No. 2916, and consists of a peculiar construction and arrangement of apparatus to be employed in effecting the destruction by carbonization of any vegetable matter that may be contained in woollen or silk goods or waste, or in mixed fabrics or rags containing cotton warp or weft.
  - " In carrying out this invention a closed chamber is employed, the interior of which is raised to an elevated température by steam pipes or heating flues, and within which chamber gaseous hydrochloric acid is disengaged by the action of the heat from the before-mentioned steam pipes or heating flues or vessels containing hydrochloric acid situate in the bottom of the said chamber. The interior of this chamber from the top downwards is furnished with a séries of endless wire gauze aprons travelling over horizontal rollers disposed in vertical rows, and made adjustable vertically to accommodate layers of material of different thickness upon
  - the wire gauze aprons. The said rollers are driven the from the other by spur or other gearing, so as to cause materials under treatment to travel to and fro across chamber, dropping from one apron to the other from the downwards until they finally issue through an aperture in
  - side wall near the bottom. A similar aperture at the top admits the fresh material, the top and bottom aprons being extended outwards some distance beyond the chamber to facilitate the charging and discharging of the entering and delivering aprons. A pressing roller is situate above these two aprons just outside the chamber so as to partially close the apertures and check any escape of gas, whilst at the same time compressing slightly the materials.
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  - " Wooden doors lined with lead are provided at the lower part of the chamber for the introduction and withdrawal of the vessels containing the hydrochloric acid.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 29th.-No. 4625.
  - Ashwell, John Rogers. “An Improvement in the Process of Dyeing Hosiery Goods.”
  - " Hitherto in the dyeing of cotton and merino hosiery goods with indigo in an ordinary blue vat it lias been found impossible to secure an even tint. This is due to the rapid action of the air on the color so soon as the goods are exposed to its oxidizing action on their removal from the vat, the outer surfaces becoming dark during the process of wringing out the excess of dye liquor, and there ensues a streaky and uneven color conséquent upon irregular expression of the dye liquor.
  - “To provide against this unsatisfactory resuit, which is given both by hand wringing and when the goods are sub-mitted to the centrifugal wringer, I propose to proceed in the following manner :—Supposing it to be required to dye stockings or any other hosiery fabric I submit the goods to the dye liquor within a cage.”
  - This cage is figured in a drawing accompanying the full spécification. It is sufficiently described in the provisional spécification as “ having a closed wooden or iron bottom, with solid sides, the upper portion of which are perforated so as to allow free pénétration of the liquor from the vat into the cage.” The complété spécification then proceeds :—
  - “The use of this construction of cage prevents the agitation of the goods within the cage from stirring up the deposit at the bottom of the vat and so coming in contact with the goods and acting injuriously upon them. By placing the cage charged with hosiery goods in the blue vat the goods will be immersed in the liquor; here they are subjected to agitation as usual to ensure the pénétration at such a distance down as will shut off the deposit from the supernatant liquor, such partition having doors which can be closed when the vat
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  - is in use. When submitted for a suitable time to the dye liquor the stockings or other articles of hosiery are to be fished up and placed in the bite of a pair of adjacent elastic squeezing rollers. Rotary motion being given to these rollers the surplus dye liquor will be rapidly and evenly removed from the goods before exposure to the action of the air ; thus the goods will be free from inequality of tint, and by a répétition of the dyeing and squeezing process an even colour of any desired depth’will be obtained.
  - “When it is more convenient to perform the wringing operation at some distance from the blue vat the goods are removed from the vat in detached quantifies in a vessel charged with dye liquor from the vat. In this case also they are submitted to the elastic squeezing rollers in such manner as will avoid their unequal exposure to the oxidizing action of the air.
  - “The mode of carrying out the improved process of dyeing hosiery goods I will now proceed to explain in detail :—As a préparation for dyeing, the goods are scoured or thoroughly wetted, and they are then passed through the hydro-extractor. While yet wet, they are straightened out and taken to the vat, where the cage being already lowered into the indigo dye liquor the goods are immersed within the same and stirred up until the pénétration of the dye is complété; this will take in general about ten minutes. The goods are then removed. By preference I quickly transfer them to a small box held to the edge of the vat and containing dye liquor sufficient to cover them. While thus submerged they are carried and placed in the nip of the squeezing rollers ; or the box may be lowered into the cage and the goods placed therein with a dyer’s stick under the surface of the dye liquor. The box thus charged is carried to the rollers where the goods are fished out one by one by hand and passed between the elastic rollers to squeeze out the surplus dye liquor. After this operation the goods are exposed to the air. They may then be rinsed in water, ‘soured,‘ i.e.y dipped in weak acid, again rinsed with water and dried. If required the goods may be scoured before being ‘finished.'
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  - “The process from immersion in dye liquor to exposure to air is repeated in this order until the desired depth of tint is obtained. In preparing the dye liquor, from one-tenth of a pound to 0'150 1b. of indigo will be used to each gallon of water employed.
  - “Having now set forth the nature of my invention of 'An Improvement in the Process of Dyeing Hosiery Goods,’ and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I claim in dyeing hosiery goods with indigo, the treatment of the same in and on their leaving the dye vat in the manner above described, whereby I am enabled to ensure an even blue tint in the goods.”
  - A.D. 1876, December Ist.-No. 4654.
  - Butler, John Swinton. “An Improved Process for Treat-ing Vegetable Fibres.”
  - “ My invention consists in an improved process of treating vegetable textile fibres (such as cotton, flax, jute, hemp, and China grass), whereby these fibres undergo a change in their nature and appearance, and acquire the characteristic qualities of silk, for which they are adopted to be used as a substitute.
  - " My improved process is as follows :—
  - “The cotton or other fibres to be operated on (hereafter referred to as the fibre) having been first freed from its starchy, fatty, and gummy matters by any suitable known means (for example, by immersion in chlorine water for about eight hours) is thus treated :—
  - " First. The fibre in a moist condition as it cornes from the preliminary treatment above referred to is steeped for twenty seconds in monohydrated nitric acid, spécifie gravity 1520, and then quickly washed and rinsed in an abundant supply of running water until it is perfectly neutral to test paper. Care must be taken to avoid the conversion of the cellulose of the fibre into pyroxline or gun cotton by limiting the immersion in nitric acid to the time indicated (which may, however, vary according to the strength of the acid) and by carrying out the operation as rapidly as possible.
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  - " Secondly. The fibre is then immersed for about fifteen minutes in a solution of sulphite of soda, in the proportion of about 272 per cent. of the weight of the fibre, and a strong galvanic current is passed into the bath to décomposé the sulphite of soda. The galvanic current should be pro-duced by a Ruhmkorff’s coil capable, with six large Bunsen battery cells, of producing a spark two or three inches long. The vessel in which this part of the operation is conducted may be of copper or any other suitable material, and the température of the bath should be about 100° Fahrenheit.
  - " Thirdly. The fibre is then boiled for about half an hour in water containing about 172 per cent, (by weight) of carbonate of ammonia and afterwards washed in pure water, and when clean and colorless the fibre is treated with an ammoniacal or acetic solution of natural raw silk, or it might be manufactured silk undyed (in the proportion of about one-half part to one hundred parts of fibre in sufficient water to cover the fibre) in a vessel of tinned copper, and under a pressure of four or five atmosphères and at a corresponding température, the galvanic current being at same time passed through the material by connecting the pôles of the coil with the exterior of the vessel containing the fibre and silk solution. The passage of the galvanic current is continued until the liquid becomes milky or gelatinous. The fibre, which at this stage acquires the appearance and character of silk, is then placed in a drying room, and when dry is washed and rinsed, and finally dried again. The product will then be nearly white or colorless, and may be prepared for dyeing in the following manner :—The fibre is boiled in a solution of arsenic acid and soap in the proportions of i per cent, of arsenic acid and 3 per cent, of soap.
  - " Having described the nature of my invention and the manner of performing the same, I déclaré that what I claim as my invention to be protected by the hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent is, the improved process, as herein described, of treating vegetable fibre (such as cotton, flax, jute, hemp, and China grass) whereby they acquire the character and appearance of silk.”
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- - RYDILL: DYEING YELLOW, ETC. 89
  - A.D. 1876, December 1st.—No. 4655.
  - Butler, John Swinton. "Improvements in the Préparation of Aniline Dyes. ( Void by reason of the Patentée having neglected to file a Spécification in pursuance of the conditions of the L et ter s Patenté
  - “This invention consists in an improved process for obtain-ing dyes from aniline compound, and is as follows, videlicet:—
  - “For preparing red, magenta, cardinal fuschine, and analo-gous colours, the aniline compound is dissolved in boiling water, or in its ordinary solvent, to which has been added 3 per cent, of muriatic acid with i per cent, of chlorate of potass. When the solution is free from the smell of chlorine gas it may be used for the tinge or shade required by taking it in the required quantity.
  - “For blue, Nicholson blue, violet, mauve, black and analo-gous colours, the above process is employed, but I use only one-half the above stated quantity of chlorohydric acid and chlorate of potass.
  - “The intermediate shades are obtained by mixing the different aniline salts treated as hereinbefore described in such quantity and mixture as is necessary for obtaining them.”
  - A.D. 1877, December 5th — No. 4696.
  - RYDILL, GEORGE. " Improvements in Dyeing Dark Shades of Piece Goods, Woollen Waste, Hair, and Rags a Light Fast Yellow or Fawn Colour, Dyeing Fast Aniline Blue and other Colours, Utilizing the Waste Products for Treating Sewage and Manure.”
  - “ My invention consists in the employment of nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash treated with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid, for dyeing a fast light yellow or fawn colour, and for producing light yellow shades from once dark dyed piece goods composed wholly or in part of previously dyed wool, woollen material and woollen waste, and for dyeing piece goods, wool, woollen rags, alpacca, mohair, camels’ hair, woollen flock, hair, silk rags, waste silk, rabbit or hare down, shoddy or mungo, a light yellow or
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  - fawn colour ; also for dyeing the same when required a fast scarlet, blue, maroon, and other colours.
  - " Or nitric acid and nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash are treated with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid, for producing a fast light yellow or fawn colour ; but as nitric acid is a manufactured article by distillation, and very costly, evaporates quickly, and stains the skin, I prefer to use nitrate of soda and sulphuric acid, as they do not evaporate so quickly, neither do they stain the skin, besides being cheaper, more effectuai, and not liable to turn so red with heat or alkali in cleansing, milling, and removing the acid.
  - " With respect to nitrate of potash and its use in dyeing a yellow or fawn colour with acids, nitrate of soda is not only cheaper than nitrate of potash, but it has the advantage of containing 9 per cent, more of nitric acid.
  - " These improvements are not only for dyeing piece goods, woollen material, hair, shoddy, mungo, and woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour, but I introduce and use nitrate of soda, without any previous treatment or distillation, with acid as an useful assistant material for dyeing wool, piece goods, woollen rags, and fibrous substances fast colours by being united with dye-colouring matter.
  - " I first thoroughly cleanse wool, piece goods, woollen material, alpacca, mohair, camels’ hair, woollen rags, hair, silk rags, waste silk, flock, rabbit or hare down or wool, and then dye, stain, or change the colour of the animal fibres a fast light yellow or fawn colour in a cold liquid as follows :— I préparé in a vessel containing any required quantity of dilute sulphuric acid at a strength from 6° to 30° or more on Twaddell’s hydrometer ; I then dissolve with water nitrate of soda, of weight according to quantity of liquid required, then mix the dissolved nitrate of soda with the dilute sulphuric acid in the vessel, place in the piece goods, wool, silk, animal hair, or woollen rags, and let them lay in the liquid a few days or a week. The time required to dye or stain the fabrics or materials a fast light yellow or fawn colour is according to the strength of the liquid, such being effected without labour or attention, except an occasional turn over with a stick. I
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  - find by experiment that this method is one to preserve the elasticity of the fibres.
  - " Or I préparé in a vessel any required quantity of dilute sulphuric acid, at a strength from 6° to 30° or more on Twad-dell’s hydrometer, then dissolve with water nitrate of potash, weight according to the liquid required to be used, mix the dissolved nitrate of potash with the dilute sulphuric acid, place in the wool, piece goods, woollen material, alpacca, mohair, camels’ hair, woollen rags, hair, silk rags, waste silk, flock, rabbit or hare down or wool, and let them lay in the liquid the required time to stain or dye the fabrics a fast light yellow or fawn colour. The time required to dye or stain with cold liquids the fabrics or fibres a fast yellow or fawn colour is according to the strength of the liquid.
  - " Or dilute muriatic or hydrochloric acid may be used with nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash for staining or dyeing wool, piece goods, woollen rags, animal fibres or substances a fast light yellow or fawn colour.
  - " Or sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid may be used and mixed together in any required proportion with nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash or a nitrate in solution, for staining or dyeing wool, piece goods, woollen rags, animal fibres or substances a fast light yellow or fawn colour in a cold liquid, at a strength according to the time required for staining or dyeing the fibres or fabrics.
  - " Or I use separately or mixed together in a vessel dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid, together with any required proportions of dilute nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash liquid with dilute nitric acid, making the liquids at a strength on Twaddell’s hydrometer of from 6° to 30° or more, place in the wool, piece goods, silk, woollen rags, animal fibres or substances, and let them lay in the acid liquid the time required to stain or dye the fabrics a fast light yellow or fawn colour. A small quantity of logwood, alum, sait, ammonia, potash, or caustic soda may be introduced when required to bring up the colour.
  - “In dyeing or staining large quantities of material with cold liquid a number of vessels, as described, require to be
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  - charged. When the material is dyed or stained a fast yellow or fawn colour as required, it is then removed from the vessel, and the same liquid is re-used for dyeing or staining other chargings of material.
  - " Having described what sulphuric, muriatic, or hydro-chloric or nitric acid or nitrate of soda and nitrate of potash, or a nitrate in solution will do cold, in dyeing or staining animal fibres and substances a light yellow or fawn colour, I will now explain what results such acid nitrate liquids are capable of accomplishing when made hot.
  - " in a véssel made of stone, wood, earthenware, glass, lead, iron, platinum, gold, or any other suitable material, I préparé any required quantity of dilute sulphuric acid, at a strength from 6° to 20° or more on Twaddell’s hydrometer, then dissolve with water nitrate of soda, weight according to the quantity of liquid and strength required to be used, and then mix the dissolved nitrate of soda with the dilute sulphuric acid, or the nitrate of soda may be dissolved in the prepared acid liquid, which acid liquid I heat with steam passing through a coil of lead pipe or a jacketed vessel, or a vessel heated with water or steam acting on the outside ; heat from minerai or vegetable oils, fire, gas, waste products of combustion ; or a vessel may rest on a hot hearth, or hot air may be used, either to pass through the acid liquor or to act on the outside of the vessel, to heat the same. When the acid liquid in the vessel is made hot I place in the wool, piece goods, silk, animal fibres, hair, yarns, or woollen rags, which may have been previously dyed blue, green, scarlet, black, or any other colour, when the same becomes dyed or stained a light yellow or fawn colour in the short space of from one minute to five, ten or more minutes, according to the strength and warmth of the material to be dyed.
  - " If a quantity of material is introduced wet and cold it is not stained or dyed so quickly as when the material is warm or taken from hot water and the surplus moisture removed with a hydro-extractor ; but under all circumstances piece goods and materials to be dyed, stained, or the colour changed are entirely under the control of the person in attendance.
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  - " Or I préparé a liquid of any required strength with muriatic or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of soda to dye or stain wool, piece goods, animal fibres, hair, yarns, or woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour by heating the acid liquid, as herein described.
  - " Or sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid may be mixed together in any required proportions with nitrate of soda for dyeing or staining wool, piece goods, silk, animal fibres, hair, yarns, rabbit or hare down or wool, or woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour with hot acid liquid, as herein described.
  - " Or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid may be used each separately with nitrate of potash in any required proportion for dyeing or staining wool, piece goods, animal fibres, and woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour.
  - " Or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid are mixed together in any required proportions with nitrate of potash for dyeing or staining wool, piece goods, animal fibres, and woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour with hot acid liquid, as herein described.
  - " Or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid may be mixed with either nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash and dilute nitric acid at any required strength or in any required proportions of one to each other, and heat the same as herein described, for dyeing or staining wool, piece goods, silk, animal fibres, hair, yarns, or woollen rags a fast light yellow or fawn colour. A small quantity of logwood, alum, sait, ammonia, potash, or caustic soda may be introduced when required to bring up the colour, or other colouring liquids or substances may be mixed with the nitrate liquids ; also borax is advantageously used.
  - " When piece goods and animal fibres to be dyed or stained a fast light yellow or fawn colour are perfectly free from dye colouring matter, such as white piece goods, wool, or white woollen rags, I then mix with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash, a little logwood, or any other dye-colouring matter or spent dye
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  - liquors, may be utilized for the acids to act upon, or dye refuse, bark, or other colouring substances may be employed to feed the acid or acids, nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash, or a nitrate in solution with colouring matter or sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid liquids which have been used for saturating shallies, linsey skirting or woollen rags, previous to and for removing vegetable substances from woollen material by means of heat (called extracting), and which acid liquids contain a little dye-colouring matter removed from the rags while being steeped or saturated in acid liquid.
  - " By experiments I find these acid liquids to be most useful, and cause the acid or acids to serve for two purposes ; or aniline or other colours may be introduced to colour and dye with.
  - " In dyeing aniline and other colours fast on piece goods, wool, and other animal fibres and substances, I use nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash, which I find most useful agents, particularly the nitrate of soda for its cheapness and effect. For example, I place in a vessel of hot water aniline blue and nitrate of soda ; I then put in the wool, piece goods, woollen rags, extract wool or other animal fibres or substances to be dyed, and boil for five, ten, or thirty minutes ; I then raise the material and pour in a small quantity of dilute sulphuric acid, which with the nitrate of soda causes the aniline blue colour to become fast on the fabrics, so that the aniline blue will stand the test of nitric acid, muriatic, or hydrochloric or sulphuric acid without the colour being effected. Maroon and other colours are dyed fast with a like resuit; also dark dyed coloured piece goods, shoddy, mungo, and woollen rags are readily dyed fast blue.
  - “ By steeping or saturating piece goods, wool, silk, animal fibres, woollen or linsey rags, composed partly of animal and vegetable fibres and substances, in dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid, and nitrate of soda, liquid or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid, and nitrate of potash liquid mixed together in any required proportions, after removing surplus liquid and steaming the fabrics or material in a steam-tight room or drying the same with heat or steam
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  - of 120° or more, the cotton or vegetable substances are destroyed, and the fabrics or material are changed, stained, or dyed a light yellow or fawn colour. When the piece goods or fabrics are to be steamed I make the liquid into a kind of liquid paste with starch.
  - " By this improvement dark dyed mixed coloured woollen materials and hair which would serve only for some common purpose if made into piece goods and yarns, are dyed into a light yellow or fawn colour, which colour can now only be obtained from white wool, alpacca, mohair, or light valuable shades of woollen materials or hair.
  - “Another advantage is that mixed woollen waste contain-ing almost every colour, woollen piece goods as well as woollen rags, are dyed or stained a light yellow or fawn colour, which when pulled up by a rag or Garnett machine, and then carded, one even colour is produced. Not only this, but a light foundation or ground is formed for redyeing any other light colours or light shades upon the fabrics or materials, so that cloth, blankets, carpets, and other woven or knitted fabrics are thereby produced at a most reasonable cost and the process of dyeing simplified.
  - “The following classes are some of the materials which contain mixed, dark, and faded colours, much enhanced in value when dyed a light yellow or fawn colour, such as:—Scotch and other woollen waste, hosiery waste and clippings, alpacca, mohair, shirtings, French merinoes, coloured flannels, coloured serges, woollen fringe, woollen braids, coburgs, woollen comforters, extracted linsey stockings, indigo stockings, extract wool, hard stuffs or woollen skirting, coloured stock-ings, cloth rags, extracted waste silk, silk rags, flocks, rags, and other woollen materials.
  - " It has been shown by many careful and accurate experi-ments that nitrogen in the form of nitric acid exerts a more powerful influence on the growth of graminea than an equal weight of nitrogen in the form of ammonia, and that the application of nitrate acts on grains and grasses in the grow-ing seasons with extraordinary rapidity, and its action is not so much diminished by rain. I therefore cleanse the dyed or
  - G
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  - stained fabrics or materials when nitrate of soda is used from the nitrate or nitric acid with cold or hot water, ammonia, potash, lime water, borax, caustic soda, or other alkali, and utilize the same for treating sewage, liquid manure for grow-ing crops, or watering manure, earths, ashes, refuse, animal charcoal, or other manural substances to retain the nitrate or nitric acid, or nitrate of ammonia.
  - " The dirty or spent acid liquids or condensed vapours, in dyeing or staining yellow, I also utilize for treating sewage, growing crops, or manure as described, so that the nitrate of soda, nitrate of potash, and acids, ammonia, and other alkalies, which in the first instance are rather expensive, are not wasted, but turned to useful purposes instead of a nuisance.
  - To bring up the spent liquids and make them useful after once used in dyeing or staining fabrics or materials a fast light yellow or fawn colour with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of soda liquid, or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of potash, or dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid mixed with nitrate of soda or nitrate of potash and dilute nitric acid, I place in the vessel or vessels containing the acid liquid or liquids iron borings, filings, or turnings, refuse card wire, or scrap iron, which convert the acid liquids into nitrate of iron or nitro-sulphate of iron, or other valuable Chemical products are formed with the acids, alum, sait, and alkalies. Sulphate of iron and nitrate of iron produced from those refuse acid Chemicals are most useful in dyeing.
  - “And having now described the nature of my said invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I déclaré that I claim as my invention,—
  - " Firstly. The dyeing, staining, or changing the colour of wool, woollen waste, hair, silk, woollen rags, animal fibres, and materials, in a vessel, a light fast yellow or fawn colour, either in a cold or hot dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of soda liquid, and removing such dye or colouring surplus liquid with water and alkalies, as herein described.
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  - 97
  - " Secondly. The dyeing, staining, or changing the colour of woollen piece goods, animal fibres, and substances, in a vessel with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of potash, a fast light yellow or fawn colour, as herein described.
  - “Thirdly. The dyeing, staining, or changing the colour of woollen piece goods, animal fibres, and substances, in a vessel with dilute sulphuric, muriatic, or hydrochloric acid and dis-solved nitrate of soda, nitrate of potash, and nitric acid, being mixed one with the other and forming a cold or hot acid liquid, for dyeing, staining, or producing in varions ways a fast light yellow or fawn colour, as herein described.
  - " Fourthly. The use of nitrate of soda or nitrate in solution in dyeing or staining animal fibres and materials fast colours, with aniline or other dye colouring matter, and steaming the animal fibres and materials in a room, as described.
  - " Fifthly. Heating the water or dye liquid with hot air passing through the liquid or through a coil of pipe or a jacketed vessel, or heating the same as herein described.
  - “Sixthly. Utilizing the sulphuric or muriatic or hydrochloric acid liquid used in saturating animal fibres and substances for extracting, as well as the use of alum, sait, ammonia, potash, caustic soda, and spent dye liquids, as herein described.
  - "Seventhly. Producing dye colouring matter with the refuse acid nitrate chemical acting on métal, as herein described.
  - “Eigthly. The utilizing of the refuse acid nitrates and alkalies as a manure, or for treating sewage water, as herein described.
  - In witness whereof, I, the said George Rydill, have here-unto set my hand and seal, this first day of June, in the year of our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven."
  - A.D. 1876, December 7th.—No. 4729.
  - Fulton, David. "Improvements in Machinery for Engra-ving Printing Rollers.” (This Invention received Provisional Protection only.)
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  - "This invention relates to machinery for engraving printing rollers by means of small steel milling rollers, and has princi-pally for its object to secure rapidity and accuracy of operation by automatic means in cases in which the action of the milling roller is interrupted, in order that the device which it indents or engraves may be applied to separate spaces.
  - "Heretofore, in attempts to attain the results now aimed at, the printing roller has been made to rotate continuously at a uniform rate, the milling roller being raised from and lowered down upon the printing roller by means of an eccen-tric or cam, but such mode has failed to give sufficient accuracy, and the desired results have had to be approximated to by very careful, skilful, and tedious manipulation of the machinery.
  - “By the présent invention the printing roller is driven intermittently, and is brought completely to rest between each action of the milling roller. The space on the printing roller on which the milling roller acts at each operation is deter-mined by a cam or eccentric which lifts the milling roller, and the interval unacted on, if any, is determined by the extra extent of the movement of the printing roller beyond the point at which the milling roller is lifted. The printing roller is then stationary for a sufficient time, during which the milling roller redescends upon it and must corne in contact with it in the précisé position required, so that on the printing roller moving forward again the milling action starts accurately as desired.
  - “ After each action, and whilst the printing roller is com-pleting its extra movement corresponding to the part to be unacted on, the milling roller is turned back to its proper position for starting by a weighted lever attached to it, and provided with a striking point to encounter a stop, the striking point being adjustable by a screw so that the proper position of the milling roller may be accurately secured.
  - “ The printing roller is carried in a usual manner in the machine, and is turned by a train of toothed wheels which can be changed to suit different sizes of rollers and other circum-stances.
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  - "The intermittent motion is obtained, according to one modification, by means of a pair of wheels, the driving one of which has a part of its rim toothed, and a part plain or untoothed, the latter part corresponding to the period during which the printing roller is stationary. The driving wheel is formed with one or more sériés of teeth to gear with the teeth of the driver, and with a very short blank space between the end of one sériés and the beginning of the next ; and the sets of teeth are brought to gear successively with each other by single larger teeth fixed in suitable positions at the sides of the rims having the small teeth. Instead of the wheels just described, what are known as Swiss wheels or any other known arrangement for giving a suitable intermittent motion may be adopted.
  - " The milling roller may be carried as in any suitable arrangement of existing machinery for continuons milling work, but it is by preference held by a lever centred on a bracket or standard formed on or attached to the longitudinally sliding carriage, such lever having on the back or further side of its fulcrum an arm connected by a link to a weighted lever below, an arrangement more convenient and less in the way of the attendant worker than that ordinarily adopted. The cam or eccentric by which the milling roller is lifted off the printing roller is by preference arranged to act on the lower weighted lever.
  - “ It is an important advantage of the hereinbefore described improvements that the operation known as ‘ rocking,’ by which the indenting action of the milling roller is repeated, can be performed without in the slightest degree interfering with the accuracy or rapidity with which the work may be continued between the rocking operations.”
  - A.D. 1876, December 7th.-No. 4741.
  - Wise, William Lloyd. “Improvements in Machinery for Drying Yarn.” A communication from C. H. Weisbach.
  - " This invention refers to machinery by which all sorts of yarns may be dried.
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  - " Heretofore hot air has been mostly made use of for drying yarn, it being customary to hang the hanks in drying rooms and to admit air at a high température into them to accom-plish the purpose. This mode of drying is subject to many inconveniences. In the first place, drying rooms are liable to conflagrations; the goods contained in such rooms frequently become ignited and are consumed by fire notwithstanding that every care is taken to avoid such calamities. The hot air drying process is frequently most injurions to the quality of yarns in more than one respect. Dyed yarns suffer in the finer tints of color more particularly when yarns of different colors are dried together in one room, where the colors are frequently subject to what is known to dyers as breaking out, and yarns of light colors are liable to become spotted. Hence a general desire has become manifest for drying yarns in a convenient, expéditions, and cheap manner, which will at the same time obviate the injurions effects of drying by hot air. This general want is in every respect met by the présent invention.
  - " In the machinery employed the principle is adopted of rotating yarn in the air during a certain time, thus accom-plishing the drying in a satisfactory manner, the machine being constructed in such manner that the hanging up and taking off of the hanks can be effected in the most convenient and expeditious way, and so that hanks of different lengths may be hung in the machine for drying. These drying machines may be worked in moderately warm rooms, which will assist the drying process, but the use of hot air is abso-lutely excluded as being injurious and dangerous.
  - " in one arrangement of machine two frames or standards carry bearings at their upper part in which Works a shaft. On this shaft, near each end, a nave constructed with arms is keyed. Each nave is supplied with four or more arms, which may be radial or slanting.
  - " The arms are constructed with bosses at their outer ends through which centre pins are passed, the inner ends of which centre pins are pointed. These centre pins are held in place by nuts. The bosses of the arms at one end of the machine
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  - are threaded for the réception of their centre pins. These last mentioned centre pins are made with square heads on their outer ends to receive a key for turning them in their bosses, and they are secured therein by the nuts on the outer sides of the bosses.
  - " Every two pointed centre pins in the ends of arms opposite each other carry between them a roller, preferably of wood, of octagon or suitable shape, and which rollers have central holes or recesses to receive the pointed ends of the centre pins.
  - " The arms of the naves are formed with slots which extend along the greater parts of the lengths of the arms ; into these slots are fitted sliding blocks or cheeks having screw bolts passing through them, by means of which each block or cheek can be secured at any point of the slot in its arm. Each block or cheek is constructed with a boss similar to the one at the end of the arm ; at one end of the machine each block or cheek carries a firmly screwed centre pin and at the other end of the machine each block or cheek carries an adjustable centre pin as described with reference to the ends of the arms. These centre pins carry rollers between them as described with regard to the other centre pins. Thus the hanks of yarn can easily be hung over two rollers as described. which are then placed between the corresponding pointed centre pins and secured in their position by means of the adjustable screws. It likewise follows that the distance of the rollers from each other may be regulated to suit the length of the hanks and the degree of stretch that is to be given to the yarn. The hanks having thus been introduced into the machine the same can be set in motion by passing a strap on to a fast pulley of the main shaft and driving the same as may be desired.
  - “A loose pulley and disengager are provided for stopping the machine. The radial position of the hanks to the rotary motion affords advantageous results as regards the speed of the drying process, and the System of drying yarns generally by thus merely swinging them in the air has no injurious influence of any kind with regard to the color and cleanness.
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  - " I now proceed to describe a modification of this invention in which .a ventilator or blower is introduced inside of the drying machine, the object being to blow the air outwardly through the hanks of yarn on the rollers and thus materially to assist the process of drying.
  - "Suitable frames carry bearings for the naves of two sets of large arms ; the horizontal shaft resting in these naves is rotated by pullies and carries the ventilator or blower, the wings of which nearly equal in length the length of the shaft.
  - “The two sets of large arms are connected together by connecting stays, so that they form as it were one body. A sleeve of the one set of arms is of considérable length, pro-jects beyond the corresponding frame, and there carries pullies for giving a slow rotary motion to the reel round about the ventilator or blower shaft, but in opposite direction to the motion of the latter. The six or eight arms of each set are placed radially to the centre, but outer arms or extensions are placed in slanting or angular positions to the radial arms. The radial arms at one end of the machine carry small shafts or spindles made to turn parallel with the main shaft, and which carry at their outer ends little star wheels. The inner ends of these spindles are made each with a pro-jecting square or prismatical head so that rollers can be easily fixed on them, which rollers extend to the arms at the other end of the machine, to which they can be readily attached by means of adjustable centre pins.
  - “When the entire reel is rotated the rollers rotate as well, and the little star wheels striking against a boit or projection fixed to the frame are advanced intermittently by one or more teeth, hence the rollers are by degrees rotated. The hanks of yarn to be dried being hung in thè arms, and the latter in position, they are circulated by the slow motion given to the reel, and are dried by the current of air proceed-ing from the ventilator or blower, and as the rollers themselves are slowly moved on the hanks, are made to continually change their position, and hence no unequal drying takes place.
  - “In order to prevent entanglement of light yarns in hanks,
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  - which might be occasioned by the sharp current of air and in conséquence of too great proximity, the outer or slanting parts of the arms may be made use of. They are made with slots in which cheeks or blocks are made to slide, containing centre pins such as herein-before described, between which rollers can be inserted, on to which one end of the hanks of yarns can be hung, so that, for example, each hank can be hung on the inner roller of the first arm and on the outer roller of the next or second arm, thus entanglement will be effectually prevented."
  - The above is the provisional spécification, from which a general idea of the improvements can be obtained, the complété spécification refers to drawings which accompany it.
  - A.D. 1876, December 8th.-No. 4756.
  - Wilson, Robert. “An Improved Mode of Finishing Cotton Fabrics.”
  - “My invention consists in imparting the required finish to cotton fabrics by cylinders or rollers revolving alternately in contrary directions, whereby the required finish is obtained more expeditiously and economically than by the machinery now in use.
  - “In performing my invention I take the cotton fabrics, either bleached or unbleached, and either with or without starch, size, or stiffening, and wind them on a roller or beam. The roller or beam, with the fabric so wound on, is placed between two cylinders or rollers with the line of their axis parallel to each other to compress the fabric; these cylinders or rollers are made to revolve alternately in opposite directions, as described in the Spécification of former Letters Patent granted to me on the i/th day of May, 1871, No. 1335 ; the cloth or fabric being compressed between the two cylinders or rollers is also moved with or by them alternately in contrary directions with its beam or roller, and this alter-nate motion combined with the pressure produces friction in the cloth or fabric, and consequently heat is evolved, which produces the finish required.
  - “I wish to remark that this alternate motion may be ob-
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  - tained by placing the cloth on the roller or beam between two flat surfaces, both of which traverse two and fro, or only one of which traverses to and fro, as in an ordinary mangle; but as this mode of operation is so slow, and uncertain as to results, I prefer the mode first described.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification, the complété spécification is illustrated by a drawing.
  - A.D. 1876, December 14th.—No. 4839.
  - Girard, Charles and others. "Improved Processes for Obtaining Colouring Matters, or of Processes for obtaining Novel Colouring Matters.”
  - “When preparing certain colouring matters in accordance with our invention we heat together any of the phénols or diphenols, and any or certain of the diatomic acids, such for example as oxalic, tartaric, citric, lactic, succinic, camphoric, or phtalic acids, either with or without the addition of sul-phuric acid, until a reaction takes place. . We then treat the product with a solution of hypochlorite, hypobromite, or hypoiodite of an alkali, or of an alkaline earth, or of products capable of producing the oxygenated dérivatives of chlorine, iodine, or bromine, such for example as mixtures of alkaline, chlorate, iodate, or bromate, with chlorhydrie, bromhydric, iodhydric, or fluorhydric acid, or their salts, or of nitric and chlorhydrie, or nitric and bromhydric acids, or of nitric and iodhydric or nitric and fluorhydric acids; for example, when we heat at a température of about two hundred degrees centigrade a mixture of twenty-two parts of resorcine, and fifteen parts anhydrous phtalic acid, we obtain phtalic fluorescine which we dissolve in an alkaline solution. To this solution we add by degrees a solution of hypochlorite containing more or less of free chlorine, according to the shade of colour required. We then saturate the solution with an acid, and carbonic acid is set free. When the mixture is filtered and the precipitate is washed a colouring matter is obtained which we style yellow aureosine. Alkaline solutions of this matter appear yellow green by reflected light, and a rose colour by transmitted light. When we use a hypobromite or
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  - hypoiodite, or a mixture of the salts in place of the hypo-chlorite, we obtain a colouring matter which we style red aureosine. From these products we obtain other colouring matters by treatment with nitric acid diluted with about twice its volume of water, the mixture being heated. When ' the required shade is attained the colouring matter is pre-cipitated by means of chloride of sodium, and the resulting precipitate is recovered by filtration. The product of this treatment, which we style yellow or red rubeosines, according as they are prepared from the yellow or red aureosines, are soluble in alkaline solutions, which they render a deep crimson colour.
  - “We also obtain colouring matters of various shades by causing a reaction between the hypochlorites, hypobromites, or hypoiodites of alkalies or alkaline earths, and the methylic, ethylic, amylic, benzylic, or acetylic dérivatives- of resorcine, combined with a diatomic acid, as for example, with anhydrous phtalic acid, or we obtain analogous matters by causing a reaction between the iodide, bromide, or chloride of an alcoholic radical, such as methyl, ethyl, amyl, or benzyl, and the aforesaid yellow or red aureosine or rubeosine.
  - " By treating with nitric acid or chromic acid, eosine or primrose, or other of the bromated dérivatives of phtaleine, resorcine, or other diphenol, or their methylated, ethylated, or acetylated dérivatives, under the same conditions as when treating the aureosines in the manner hereinbefore indicated, we obtain colouring matters analogous to those obtained by the treatment of the red aureosines. Also when treating eosine or the bromated dérivatives of phtaleine with a mixture of acetate of soda and acetic acid under pressure, at a température of about two hundred to two hundred and twenty degrees centigrade, we obtain products analogous to the red aureosines.
  - " By the methods and means herein indicated we obtain colouring matters varying in shades from yellow through orange to intense red.
  - " Having now set forth and indicated the nature of our said invention, and the manner in which we carry the same into
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- - 106 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST. practical effect, we would in conclusion hâve it to be under-stood that we claim,—
  - " First. The methods of producing colouring matters, sub-stantially as set forth and indicated.
  - " Secondly. The method of producing the colouring matter which we style yellow aureosine, substantially as set forth and indicated.
  - " Thirdly. The method of producing the colouring matter which we style red aureosine, substantially as set forth and indicated.
  - " Fourthly. The method of producing the colouring matter which we style yellow rubeosine, substantially as set forth and indicated.
  - " And, lastly. The method of producing the colouring matter which we style red rubeosine, substantially as set forth and indicated.”
  - 10. Britisli and Foreign Patents, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, Jtme 20th to Jtdy 20th 1877, inclusive.
  - Manufacture of Colouring Matters.
  - 2602. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an invention of " An improved manufacture of red colour.”— A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.—Dated 5th July, 1877.
  - 2614. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an invention of " Improvements in the manufacture of violet colour.”—A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.—Dated 6th July, 1877.
  - 2649. Ad albert Wachhausen, of Wiesbaden, Germany, Doctor of Philosphy, for an invention of " An improved brown colour or dye and process for obtaining the same.”—Dated roth July, 1877.
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  - 2347. Edouard George Peter Thomas, of the Star Chemical Works, Brentford, in the county of Middlesex, for an invention of " Improvements in the manufacture of blue colouring matter."—A communication to him from abroad by Charles Adam Girard, of 20, Rue des Ecoles, Paris, in the Republic of France.—Dated 4th July, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 186,032. H. Caro, of Mannheim, Germany, for obtaining colouring matter suitable for dyeing and printing."—Application filed 2nd October, 1876.—United States patent.
  - Processes of Printing and Dyeing.
  - 84. William Birch, of Salford, in the county of Lancaster, Machinist, for an invention of " Improved self-acting machinery for opening, smoothing, spreading, and guiding fabrics for the use of bleachers, dyers, calico printers, and others.”—Dated 8th January, 1877.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 266. James Chadwick, of the Spring Brook Print Works, Chadderton, in the county of Lancaster, for an invention of " Improvements in printing textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by James Harley, of Lowell, Massachussets, United States of America.—Dated 20th January, 1877.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 2513. William Morgan-Brown, of the firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, South-ampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue Lafitte, Paris, for an invention of " Improvements in printing textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Henry Dow Dupree, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachussets, United States of America.—Dated 29th June, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2399. Thomas Paterson Miller, of the Cambuslang Dyeworks, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of " Improvements in or connected with the process of dyeing yarn or cloth with alizarine or analogous colouring matters.”
  - 2389. Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an invention of " Improvements in printing fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Antoine Bozzini, of Lyons, France.—Dated 7th July, 1874. This patent has become void.
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  - 42,371. G. RYDILL, for " Improvements in dyeing pièces of stuff, woollen waste, &c.”—Dated 4th June, 1877.—Belgian patent.
  - Yarn Treatments.
  - 698. John Stirling Alston, Merchant, and William Reid, Dye Works Manager, both of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, bave given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in apparatus to be used in connection with varions processes of treating yarns with liquids.”
  - 964. Archibald Stewart Byers, of the firm of “Campbell and Byers,” of Paisley, in the county of Renfrew, North Britain, Dyers, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in scouring, bleaching, and dyeing yarns, and in the machinery or apparatus employed therefor.”
  - 2311. Joseph Manchester, of Manchester, in the county of Lancaster, and William Alfred Turner, of Pendleton, in the same county, Cotton Manufactures for an invention of “ Improvements in apparatus for gassing yarns and fabrics.”— Dated 2nd July, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 1840. Thomas Paterson Miller and David Miller, both of Cambuslang Dyeworks, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “ Improvements in apparatus for dyeing or otherwise treating yarns.”—Dated 28th June, 1870.—This
  - patent has become void.
  - 185,625. Wm. Clark, of Newark, N.J., for “ Processes and apparatus for dyeing thread and yarn.”—Application filed i8th November, 1875.—United States patent.
  - Claim.—1. The improvement in the art of dyeing thread in the skein, consisting in the connecting of the skeins in a chain by threads or interposed links so slender as to enable the skeins to take the dye equally throughout, the dipping of said chain of skeins progressively into the dye-liquor, and expression of the superfluous liquor therefrom, all substantially as before set forth. 2. The combination, substantially as before set forth, of the dye-vat, the guide, the dipping-roller, the squeezing-roller, and the belts by which the dipping-roller end the squeezing-roller are caused to revolve positively. 3. The combination, substantially as before set forth, of the dye-vat, the dipping-roller, the squeezing-rollers, the delivery-roller, and the belts by means of which the severalrollers are caused to revolve positively. 4. The combination, substantially as before set forth, of the dye-vat, the guide, the dipping-roller, the squeezing rollers, the delivery roller, and the belts by means of which the several rollers are caused to revolve positively.’
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- - THE TEXTILE COLODRIST.
  - No. 21.] SEPTEMBER, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - s 8 g s s: c Sy 8 S-*
  - BY M. G. WITZ.
  - Upon the Chemical Properties of Aniline Black resulting from Oxidation by means of Chlorates.—The observations which I have noted in this part of my paper are far from constituting a complété and systematic account of the important colour which still occupies so much attention, although the literature upon the subject is already so extensive. They consist of a simple sériés of experiments carried out at different times upon aniline blacks printed upon calicoes with pure materials at known degrees of strength. I shall afterwards return to shew the method which has been followed in obtain-ing them, because, in my opinion, it allows the study of the spécial influence of reagents to be carried on with more exactness and certainty than lias hitherto been the case.
  - The blacks and greys from phenylamine, that is, derived from pure aniline by oxidation through the medium of chlorates, having been simply washed off, then soaped, and greened by pure hydrochloric acid, preserve their grey blue shade when they are kept in pure boiling water.+ This is the
  - *Bull. de la Soc. Ind. de Rouen, v., p. 238. Continued from Textile Colour-ist, iv., p. 1.
  - + The colour equals the blue-violet with fo black of Chevreul’s nomenclature in the wet state becoming when dry 5 blue with f black when the muriate of aniline is in excess, and i blue with Io black when the chlorate is in excess.
  - H
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  - true colour of the substance frequently called emeraldine, which we shall provisionally call acid aniline black, for it has always a more decided green shade when the acid is in excess, as at the moment of its formation.
  - The same samples not greened, that is, washed off only in a bath of alkali or chromate—one or other of which baths are at the présent time used for this colour in practice—invariably preserve their respective shades of blue-black and violet-black when kept in pure boiling water.
  - We may note in passing that the contact with pure hydro-chloric acid at 23° Tw. destroys immediately in the cold the violet-black produced by the supplementary oxidation of aniline black, as for example by the treatment with bichromate of potash, and brings it to a state corresponding to the ordinary blue-black. Weaker acids have the same action, but operate more slowly unless they are warmed.
  - Acids and Aniline Black.—The influence of various acids upon the blacks previously washed of and considered as neutral is too well known to require notice except in a general manner.
  - The weaker acids, such as carbonic acid, have no action.
  - Acids of a stronger nature, but not very powerful, such as acetic acid and many organic acids, turn the black green.
  - Lastly, the strong minerai acids, even when very largely diluted with water, such as hydrochloric acid, or when they are not completely saturated by a base as sulphuric acid in bisulphate of potash, all turn the common aniline black into green.
  - The highly oxygenated acids—chloric acid, perchloric acid, nitric acid—possess also the same property when they are not too concentrated or applied too warm. The action of some of the highly oxygenated acids with a metallic radical— chromic acid, permanganic acid—will be separately examined when treating of oxidizing agents.
  - There are still other acid bodies which corne under the class of deoxidizing agents, and will be studied with them ; such are sulphuretted hydrogen, sulphurous acid, and hydro-sulphurous acid.
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  - The action upon aniline black of salts which have an acid reaction to litmus, and of certain salts generally considered as neutral, demand a close examination.
  - Action of Mnriate of Aniline.—The normal solution con-tains 13 per cent, neutral sait. Another solution was acidified with 1‘ of hydrochloric acid, and to a third solutionof free aniline was added. The action was tried upon blacks and greys from phenylamine which had been washed off, soaped, and chromed in the state of violet-black.
  - The moist samples placed in the three aniline solutions above mentioned were immediately and strongly greened.
  - The chrome black gives a green a little more grey in the neutral and alkaline solution ; while in the acid solution there is scarcely any différence in the greening between the chromed black and a sample of blue-black washed off without chroming.
  - From these experiments it is seen that aniline black becomes green with both neutral and basic salts of the alka-loid, precisely the same as litmus is reddened under the same circumstances, while aniline mauve and methylaniline purple (violet de Paris), behave in quite a different manner. On the one hand, these two colouring matters are not changed by the neutral salts of the alkaloids, while on the other, they change to blue and to a green more or less yellow in the présence of free acids Lastly, the alkaloids neutralize completely the action of strong acids upon these colours, while on the contrary they are without action upon the greened aniline black.
  - From these simple experiments it is further évident that it is impossible to avoid the greening of ordinary aniline grey and black when these are placed in solutions where aniline black is being formed by the aid of any chlorate, and that not only because such solutions always contain a free acid, but by the fact, sufficient in itself, that the solutions contain muriate of aniline which has not fully undergone transformation.
  - Another évident conséquence confirming conclusions long ago affirmed, but seriously disputed, is that aniline black is
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  - not greened on account of any deoxygenizing influences, but that in reality it changes its shade under the influence of acids, and notwithstanding the oxidizing action, both acidity and oxygenizing influences being indispensable for the production of this same aniline black.
  - Action of Salammoniac.—The solution contained 25 per cent. of sait. This sait in a pure state possesses a certain tendency to dissociation when its aqueous solution is heated, allowing a small proportion of ammonia to escape ; the litmus which may be added to the liquid in order to colour it assuming a violet-red colour, while at the same time red litmus paper becomes blue when held in the disengaged vapours. Account, therefore, must be kept of this tendency, and care taken to counteract its influence by maintaining a very slight excess of ammonia in the solutions used in the experiments, so as to keep the blue litmus in a state shewing neutrality.*
  - Even in the cold the blacks and greys of phenylamine in the blue-black state change in salammoniac to green-blue, but do not acquire the dark green shade which is produced by strong acids. The aniline black appears to displace a small portion of the ammonia in the salammoniac.
  - The same specimens washed, soaped, and chromed which are in the violet-black condition, change slightly towards a bluer shade of violet; this action is évident when the experiments are made comparatively. There is a marked greening of ordinary aniline blacks which are steeped in solution of salammoniac and exposed to sunlight.
  - Neutralizalion of Acid Aniline Black by Ammonia.—When a specimen of aniline black which has become greened spon-taneously in the air is sprinkled with ammonia, the black colour is temporarily restored, but it is observed that after drying the green parts reappear, as if the alkali was powerless to counteract in a permanent manner the influence of the acids which caused the greening.
  - * The escape of ammonia during the boiling of aqueous solution of salammoniac has been observed by Fittig, who estimated it at 1)2 per cent. (Ann. der Ch. und Pharm. cxxxviii., p. 189. Dict. de Ch. Wurtz, i. p. 221,
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  - To demonstrate this fact in a satisfactory manner some specimens of phenylamine blacks and greys, washed, and soaped, then turned green by a normal solution of pure hydrochloric acid were restored to the blue-black shade by contact with free ammonia or by a cold solution of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia. They were washed with distilled water, and, after draining for ten minutes, the remaining water was pressed out and filtered. It showed no trace of chlorides to the nitrate of silver test, and yet the samples rapidly dried in warm air required afresh a weak green-blue colour; with a sharper heat the return of the green is more évident. Experiments upon the same samples which had not previously been greened by hydrochloric acid demon-strated that the ammonia itself had no action upon the blue-black.
  - The same colours changed to green-blue by solution of salammoniac are not modified by washing with cold water nor by weak soap solution at the boiling point ; but when passed in boiling distilled water, with or without addition of clear lime water, they become blue-black after drying.
  - It seems very possible, after what has been said, that the aniline black retains strongly, notwithstanding washing in cold water, a small quantity of salammoniac. By drying, and especially by heating, this sait disengages a part of its ammonia, and thus forms an acid aniline black recognisable by its hue.
  - Other earthy or metallic chlorides which do not affect blue litmus may possess an analogous action upon aniline black, owing to partial dissociation of their éléments.
  - Oxidizing Agents and Aniline Black.—We may briefly recall to mind that, in principle, acid oxidizing agents alone (or neutral in presence of a trace of acid to commence with) are able to transform aniline salts into aniline black, and that very easily when the solutions are sufficiently concentrated.* We may add that oxidizing agents, whether acid, neutral, or alkaline, provided they are sufficiently energetic, may any of
  - * If the aniline salts are very acid, the black is not so easily formed ; if they are alkaline, dark coloured bodies are produced, but not aniline black.
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  - them act upon aniline black in many essentially different ways :—
  - (1) They modify the nature of the ordinary blue-black, trans-forming it into violet-black. These two conditions of the black are, as we have said, permanent even at the température of boiling water.
  - All supplementary oxidation to which the black may be subjected, in contact with different oxidizing agents, may be explained as simply a new state of dehydrogenation of this substance, and this should be noted once for all. When hydrochloric acid, at 23° Tw., isemployed to restore the black to its original state, after its second oxidation, it is probable that there occurs a partial destruction of it by the formation of a soluble chlorinated body.
  - (2) When the action of the same oxidizing agents is pro-longed the aniline black is gradually destroyed, passing through some intermediary stages which we shall notice ; this progressive destruction is much slower with aniline black than with indigo ; it takes place indifferently upon the neutral violet-black, or upon the corresponding acid black, according as the oxidizing baths are neutral, alkaline, or acid.
  - Lastly, it is observed in the majority of cases (as in heating with chromic acid, or with chloric acid and peroxide of manganèse ; as in experiments upon aniline grey, insensible to the action of acids, or with chlorate of copper in the same conditions, or even with strong and cold chloric acid), that there is a partial transformation of the aniline black into a mixed product (as of the residue of oxidation) of a somewhat pale buff colour, or of an ash or yellowish grey, which has extraordinary powers of résistance to various agents.
  - The principal oxidising or dehydrogenizing agents may be somewhat arbitrarily classed in the six following groups ; we shall afterwards examine, more in detail, the phenomena to which they give rise.
  - (a) Ozone; chlorine; alkaline solution of hypochlorites ; nitrites, both acid and alkaline ; peroxide of hydrogen.
  - (b) Oxygenated compounds of chlorine, inferior to chloric acid, as chlorous and hypochloric acid ; chloric acid, plus
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  - hydrochloric acid ; or chlorates with acids, along with traces of vanadium, copper, cérium, or certain other metals which accelerate, in a more or less powerful manner, the décomposition of chloric acid.
  - (c) Permanganic acid ; neutral or alkaline permanganates ; acid vanadates.
  - (d) Chromic acid or acid chromâtes.
  - (e) Soluble ferricyanides.
  - These salts transform the blue-blacks into violet-blacks. Red prussiate of potash (ferricyanide of potassium), with addition of pure soda, carries on the oxidation of the black until it becomes red, same as with the hypochlorites, but it does not go on to the bleaching or total destruction of the black. With weak solutions, ten minutes boiling gives a violet-black, which becomes green by action of sulphurous acid.
  - From the researches of M. Jeanmaire, we know that the ferricyanide of potassium, along with acids, renders aniline black incapable of greening, but this agent making the whites of the cloth blue, led the inventor to the discovery of nitrate of iron as a more practical material for accomplishing the same end.
  - (f) Persalts of iron in dilute solution.
  - These salts in the cold immediately transform the blue-black into violet-black.
  - With weak boiling solutions of persalts of iron a new modification of the black results, which is effected in a few minutes, so completely that it afterwards resists the action of sulphurous acid (Jeanmaire, 1876), but at the same time the white of the cloth is perceptibly changed. The black may be bleached if the ferrie sait is less diluted (perchloride of iron at 30 B. This solution gives an ochreous precipitate when heated).
  - The state of peroxidation of the black resisting greening influences is obtained in various ways, more especially with the agents of the three last groups.
  - Action of Chlorine and Hypochlorites in Solution.—These oxidizing reagents are chosen as types principally because
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  - they allow experiments to be made at will in either alkaline, neutral, or acid baths, giving in each case the same results in two successive stages.
  - First Stage—Change of the Ordinary Aniline Black into Violet-Black.—The hue of the aniline blacks varies con-siderably according to the strength or intensity of the colour, or the duration and température of the oxidizing action. Thus, when there is a large amount of the black présent on the fibres, as in the case of strong colours upon cotton yarn, the black is changed in a few minutes by the warm reagent, and owing to physical causes acquires a true metallic bronze appearance, with a yellow or greenish chestnut coloured reflection. This bronzing has been for some time past prac-tically accomplished by a few dyers and extensively worked ; the bronze appearance of the colour spontaneously disappears in the course of weaving, and by contact with the air and by soaping it changes into a fine and full black. This kind of dyed yarn has been in demand by consumers who rightly considered its appearance as the best guarantee of the excellence of the dyeing. It is now generally produced by the direct action of acid chromâtes upon aniline salts. We shall see that the permanganates also can yield this bronze black.
  - The other shades obtained by means of the same agents, vary from violet-black to puce, and even to reddish chocolatés; these shades being frequently observed in the course of chloring prints. M. Camille Koechlin remarked some time ago that aniline blacks changed or injured by chloring, but not passing a, certain limit of red chocolaté colour, slowly and spontaneously returned to their original colour, and more quickly when treated with acids such as acetic acid.
  - It is a general rule that the transformations of aniline black by any kind of peroxidation cannot take place when the oxidizing baths are too strongly acid, for strong acids destroy the first state of peroxidation, which we call the violet-black.
  - Second Stage—Decoloiirizing of the Violet-Black previously produced by Oxidation.— By pushing the oxidizing action further the aniline black is gradually destroyed, giving rise to
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  - brown colours, or the Bismarck shade, or buf colours of vary-ing intensity, frequently with the formation of tarry and pitchy substances adhering to the fingers, particularly observable in moist samples treated by chlorinated gases. These residuums of oxidation, which deserve studying, consist of brown matters very soluble in alcohol, ether, and benzine. They dye silk without mordants, giving browns of an orange hue which can be again dissolved out by alcohol.
  - In every case of the action of hypochlorites upon aniline black there may be constantly remarked from the commencement to the end of the reaction a characteristic feeble aromatic odour, which recalls to the mind that of aniseed, or to some degree that of gillyflower. This smell remains after all the washings, and even after drying in the air, but it is instantly dissipated by steam. In chloring aniline blacks on the print-Works this smell can be sometimes observed more than a hundred yards away from the apparatus.
  - The alkaline hypochlorites in warm and strong baths can also serve, as I have previously pointed out, to readily détermine the comparative fastness and richness of the aniline blacks which is the most résistant, and consequently the most useful of the compounds formed by the artificial alka-loids; if the action be prolonged for a sufficient time upon various printed specimens they will be found to shew distinct différences of colour.
  - The decolourization of the aniline black under certain conditions by means of chloric acid, chromic acid, and perman-ganic acid has been studied previously, and the records are to be found in the Bulletin of the Society.
  - It is interesting to observe that the oxygenated compounds of chlorine which stand below chloric acid, and which so readily give rise to the formation of aniline black, are precisely those which conduce to its most complété destruction. Chloric acid, or a chlorate with addition of hydrochloric acid, in presence of a small quantity of a sait of vanadium, produce a perfect white discharge.
  - A simple and conclusive experiment may be made to illustrate this point. Let bands of calico be steeped in solu-
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  - tions of muriate of aniline of varions strengths, from 1 to 200 to 1 to 20, and, after drying, spotted over with a solution containing 5 per cent of chlorate of potash, with a quantity of vanadium equal to a thousandth part of the chlorate, the chlorate solution being acidulated with various amounts of hydrochloric acid. By leaving the calico in air at about 60° or 70° F., the spots will be found in the course of an hour to be uniformly green, then the centres change colour, becoming more rapidly bleached as the chloride has been more strongly acidulated to commence with, until after a few hours there is nothing left but wide rings, black and violet-grey at the out-side, diminishing in colour even to white at the centres, foliowing certain zones where the chloric acid has predomi-nated more or less over the aniline.
  - The muriates of pseudotoluidine and xylidine give blue-greys, which are more easily discharged than the aniline grey, and which, by neutralisation, tend towards violet. The muriate of toluidine in the same way yields browns. Yellow cubical catechu gives colours which at first become darker, and then also becomes lighter from the centre.
  - If the calico experimented upon has been previously dyed in indigo blue, or in ordinary aniline grey, or ungreenable aniline black, all these colours disappear in their turn with strongly acid solutions, but the discharging effect is less perfect at the centre of the spots upon the dyed calico, in proportion as there exists at the same time’ upon the cloth another substance, soluble and oxidizable, such as the muriate of aniline, upon which the oxidizing action spends itself.
  - Action of Nitrites.—A one per cent, solution of nitrite of soda, made neutral by nitric acid, acts slowly in the cold upon the ordinary black and grey, simply washed off, changing them at first to a green-blue, but does not change the violet-black resulting from treatment with bichromate ; gradually the shades become grey-violet and even rusty-violet, and, as with the alkaline hypochlorites, the colours eventually become brown or buff. By heating the same resuit is obtained, but more quickly.
  - In both cases, however, it may be observed that the greys
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  - which are at the maximum of oxidation are but slightly attacked. Further, the blacks are never at any stage changed into the ungreenable black, even when the nitrites are more concentrated, or if they are so acid as to bleach the colour, or if boiled a long time with the colour. Nitrite of soda, 10 per cent. solution, with an excess of free soda, does not act in the cold ; about 160° F. the blue-black becomes more intense, and approaches the violet-black, but when the boiling point is reached the shade approaches the primitive blue-black ; an effect which must be attributed to the influence of the caustic soda.
  - All the nitrites are decomposed by acids, and the nitrous gas set at liberty is destroyed by the water, with formation of the bioxide of nitrogen and nitric acid, therefore free nitrous acid does not exist. This instability of what may be called the nitrous anhydride endows it with energetic oxidizing powers.
  - On account of these properties,. it can be understood that the methyl-aniline violet cannot serve to indicate the neu-trality of the nitrites of the alkalies. When the violet reagent is brought to a deep green, by a trace of nitric acid, and then a nitrite, with an excess of alkali added, a grey-blue colour is obtained with a partial précipitation of the colouring matter, which does not become red-violet.
  - Nitrous Sulphuric Acid.—This liquid which is a commercial article marking 6772° B., is sulphuric acid saturated with nitrous vapours, and was recommended in 1876 for use in preventing the greening of blacks. When dissolved in a large quantity of water and partially saturated by adding twice its weight of crystals of carbonate of soda, it should be for experiment diluted finally with five hundred or one thousand times its volume of water.
  - In the cold, aniline greys and blacks change to green-blue in this acid; by heating, the shades go to violet-grey, the maximum of action appearing to be effected at about 180° F. rather than at the boil. After washing, the greening influence of sulphurous acid is found to be notably less than before, but the preservative action of the persalts of iron or boiling chromic acid is much more complété.
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  - When the bath is not so diluted its acidity interfères with the oxidizing power of the nitrous compound, at the same time it destroys grey colours which have been already changed.
  - Peroxide of Hydrogen.—In a dilute State, containing four or five times its volume of oxygen, heated with the blue-black it changes into violet-black without decolourizing, much oxygen being disengaged. The addition of a small quantity of hydrochloric acid to the same solution of peroxide of hydrogen, and heating to boiling disengages very little gas and turns the black to blue-green, which becomes violet-black in alkali. There is a slow decolourization, but the maximum of oxidation which gives the ungreenable black is never attained. This black is scarcely acted upon by the peroxide of hydrogen, although so easily influenced by the oxygenating bodies which contributed to its formation.
  - At the same degree of dilution the acidulated peroxide of hydrogen in the cold and with several hours of contact does not colour solution of muriate of aniline; by heating, it forms dark green flakes which assume the characteristic violet-black colour with alkalies.
  - Diluted peroxide of hydrogen can then give rise to aniline black by acting upon muriate of aniline, but it cannot change it into the non-greening variety.
  - Action of Permanganates and Bivanadates. — Neutral or alkaline permanganate of potash in the cold immediately produces the violet-black, and if the black be in sufficient quantity the chocolaté bronze appearance previously noted; if the permanganate be concentrated it decolourizes the black in a short time, but neither permanganate alone nor with the addition of sulphuric acid can bring the black into that state where it becomes invulnérable to the action of sulphurous acid, not even by heating or prolonging the action. The latter remarks shew the essential conditions as we shall see whatever method of oxidation may be used. It appears that to succeed the solution should be always so dilute as not to induce a too rapid destruction of the aniline black instead of the slow action desired. The bivanadate of ammonia in i pet
  - «
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  - cent. solution has no action upon either the aniline blue-black or grey:
  - The same solution acidified with hydrochloric acid decolour-izes the black at the boiling point, but does not change it in the same manner as chromic acid.
  - Arsenic Acid.—Arsenic acid in 5 per cent, solution acts only upon the aniline black and greys as a moderately strong acid, even when heated to the boiling point.
  - Action of Chromic Acid and Acid Chromâtes.—We will endeavour to add some facts to the numerous researches which have been made upon the use of the soluble chromâtes, because they include some points which have hitherto appeared to be contradictory.
  - Neutral chromate of potash does not act upon the blue-black ; neither does the chromate of potash made alkaline. in both cases the after treatment by acids after washing, and then by alkalies, shews that there has been no oxidation, the black remains blue-black.
  - The oxidizing influence of chromic acid upon the ordinary aniline black is characteristic, and varies according as this acid is free or combined in some of its different compounds. The neutral chromâtes of potash and soda, etc., have not, I repeat, any action ; but if to their aqueous solution a small quantity of any strong acid be added so as to give rise to the formation of a portion of bichromate, even when some neutral chromate still remains, the blue-black changes to violet-black, and becomes then more capable of resisting greening influences, they are, as it is known, retarded. For this reason, as much as to be assured of the complété oxidation of the aniline in printed blacks, the use of bichromate of potash, either cold or warm, had been recommended from the begin-ning by those who had worked upon this colour. The advantages of the use of this oxidizing sait had been clearly described and pointed out by M. F. Lamy in several com-munications upon the greening of aniline black.
  - If the quantity of acid added to a chromate exceeds that which is necessary to convert it into bichromate, so that a portion of chromic acid is set at liberty, quite different results
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  - are obtained. I have found that a solution of bichromate containing 7 per cent, of sait, does not prevent the greening of the black by sulphurous acid in the least, after ten minutes boiling with it. The same solutions of bichromate acidulated with i per cent, of strong sulphuric acid will prevent greening after three minutes’ boiling, though it partly decolourises the black.
  - Free chromic acid lias therefore an action perfectly distinct in this case from bichromate of potash, and this is not the only case in which a différence may be observed in its action upon colouring matters. With I part of crystallized chromic acid to iooo parts of water, boiling for half a minute produces a change in the black ; with about six minutes’ boiling it has become insensible to the action of sulphurous acid. M. Lamy was led to advise the use of hydrofluosilicic acid along with bichromate of potash to liberate the chromic acid from the potash.
  - The following results were obtained by experimenting upon small parcels of aniline grey and black, keeping them uniformly for ten minutes at the boiling point, correcting the loss by évaporation :—
  - Bichromate of potash, i per cent, solution in distilled water ; the change did not take place. It is important to notice this, because the colours were completely turned green by sulphurous acid, notwithstanding the boiling in the bichromate solution.
  - Bichromate, at 72 per cent., plus half per thousand of strong sulphuric acid ; the colours were strongly acted upon, and did not become green with sulphurous acid.
  - By replacing the sulphuric acid of the above experiment with équivalent quantifies of nitric acid, chloric acid, and hydrochloric acid, the action in each case was more energetic than with sulphuric acid, the black being partially destroyed. It may be estimated from these experiments, that hydrochloric acid acts nearly twice as powerfully as sulphuric acid. This is not surprising, since the acids just named are mono-basic acids, while sulphuric acid is bi-basic, the same as chromic acid. Two équivalents instead of one ought to be
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  - required to produce the same State of chemical equilibrium amongst the substances présent in solution.
  - By replacing, in the same way, the sulphuric acid by oxalic acid, a more powerful action is observed, the shades turn to pink-grey, and are not changed by sulphurous acid. The solution, diluted with an equal volume of water, gave nearly the same results as the original sulphuric acid mixture, but further dilution of the liquids shews very little différence between the action of the two acids.
  - Again, replacing the sulphuric acid by an équivalent amount of hydrofluosilicic acid, the action was found less energetic than with sulphuric acid ; the colours did not become green with sulphurous acid.
  - The use of acetic acid and salammoniac, instead of sulphuric acid, did not give any action.
  - Replacing the sulphuric acid by pure sulphate of alumina, reckoning three équivalents of combined acid as equal to one of free, produced very little effect.
  - Lastly, the solution of bichromate being mixed with per-chloride of iron, without any excess of acid, completely prevented the greening as the iron sait does alone. Oxide of iron was deposited upon the cloth. Continuing to use, as a fixed quantity, an amount of hydrochloric acid, équivalent to half a part of sulphuric acid per thousand of water (0*5 grammes concentrated acid per litre of water), and progres-sively diminishing the proportions of bichromate of potash for the experiments which follow : it was found that it might be brought as low as between 272 and 172 parts per thousand of water, still obtaining the same results, beyond that point the différences were more noticeable. For the following experiments the strength used was 172 per thousand. The addition of an alkaline chloride, such as chloride of sodium, with the intention of raising the boiling point, did not appear to be favourable.
  - [The table which follows shews in a more condensed form the appearances and behaviour of the black at various stages with reagents.]
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  - Diferent stages of oxidation of the Aniline Black produced by means of Chlorates. Names used and employed, with their principal characters. Appearances afttr washing in the neutral or alkaline State A Action of strong acids diluted with water. Action of sulphurous acid even when very weak.
  - (1) Development of the colour; weak colour or incompletely oxidized and of small depth ; produced cold or warm in weak solutions or mixtures. Formerly called emeraldine, or azurine. This colour is a very weak aniline black, or rather a blue-grey when it is neutralized. In the acid State it resembles emerald green. In both States it is extremely sensitive to reagents. Blue grey. With aniline in excess = 5 blue with 1‘o black becoming when dry i violet-blue 1o black ; with chlorate in excess violet-blue *o black. Emerald green of dark shade. = 1 green 2 or 1 black. = 1 green 1 black. Yellowish green. =2 green-yellow 1 black. =green-yellow 1 black.
  - (2) Complété or finished black, suffi-ciently dense at the maximum of oxidation obtainable by chlorates at températures between 70° and 100° F. This is the ordinary aniline black called BLUE-BLACK, such as it was generally Pr0‘ duced by printers from the commencement until 1876 or 1877. In the acid State this black is green, its depth depending on its concentration, in other respects it is the same as the above. Black, with blue shade. As above with greater depth. Dark green. Yellowish-green more or less deep.
  - (3) Finished black, with an additional oxidation by varions agents, neutral or acid, but in the cold or below 158° or 167° F. The very deep black has an inclination to a bronze upon yarn. The effect of this partial oxidation is destroyed by prolonged contact with strong acids. Oxidized aniline black called VIOLET: BLACK. It is obtained from the preceding colours, generally by treatment with acid chromâtes at a température below 167° F., or else by insufficient time in boiling solution. The shade is a fine violet-black after neutralization. The greening is retarded. —Intense black with violet shade. “ ith aniline in excess = violet-blue A black, and when dry 2 violet-blue o black. With chlorate in excess i violet blue A black. Dark green. = 1 or 2 green vo black. = blue-green 1‘o black. Y ellowish-green deeper than the above. = 2 yellow-green i black. = 1 yellow-green 1 black.
  - (4) Finished black, with a slow and hot oxidation between 170° and 212° F. pushed to the maximum during a space of time sufficient to render the black ungreenable.— It is observable that upon calico this black is wetted with difficulty, which is owing to incipient destruction by peroxidation. It cannot be brought to the condition of the blue-black. Peroxidized aniline black called the ungreenable black. Beautiful and intense colour, sometimes with a reddish or fox) cast; very little acted upon by acids, and especially by sulphurous acid and sur phuretted hydrogen, but has become mois easily attacked by hypochlorites, etc. 1 Well saturated fine black, or when dilute a clear grey. Black, shewing green tinge upon the ends of threads. Pure black, perhaps slightly olive at the ends of threads.
  - (5) Destruction of the black caused by excess of oxidation. The cellulose itself beginning to be acted upon ; the black now incapable of being restored. The black gives place to oxidation PrO ducts of ochrey, rusty, and yellowisn colours, becoming weaker and weaker forming a tarry substance insoluble I1 water, acids, or alkalies, and upon whic Chemical agents have scarcely any action. 1 Ochre-brown, or fawn shades ecoming gradually weaker. Browns faintly greenish. Towards orange 1’0 black. Browns faintly greenish.
  - ^he shades are designaled according to the nomenclature of Chevreul's chromatic circle. I
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  - Again, taking a solution of bichromate of potash, contain-ing two of sait per thousand of water as a standard, and diminishing the hydrochloric acid so as to be équivalent to 0'5, 0’4, and 0’3 per thousand ; the inattackable black was constantly obtained.
  - With bichromate at i part per 1,000 of water, and the hydrochloric acid équivalent to 0'4, 0’25, and 0’2 of sulphuric acid per 1,000, it was found that the two last did not influence the black so as to enable it to resist sulphurous acid.
  - It is évident from this that in weak liquids (1 of bichromate per 1,000 of water) that the hydrochloric acid must be in équivalent quantifies to produce the desired effect, but in stronger solutions (2 to 5 per 1,000) less than an équivalent of acid acts powerfully in preventing the greening of the black, although it is demonstrated that bichromate of potash without acid has no action; the nature of the décomposition of the sait must then be somewhat different according to the degree of concentration. Hydrochloric acid employed along with bichromate in proper quantifies has given me excellent results on the large.scale, a fine black with very little injury to the white cloth.
  - It is well, however, not to raise the proportion of acid too high on account of the whites. Thus when sulphuric acid is used in slight excess, that is when more than 4 1b. of the con-centrated acid is used to 10 1b. bichromate in solutions con-taining 2 or 3 of sait per 1,000 of water, it is observed that the whites became tinged brown, and this tinge is difficult to remove by boiling lime water or hypochlorites ; a small excess of bichromate is therefore to be preferred.
  - it will be observed that to obtain the spécial modification of aniline black not liable to green by the action of sulphurous acid, the ordinary means of oxidation were for a long time insufficient, this was because it was absolutely necessary to unité in one process several spécial conditions, one or other of which were wanting in all the processes used. These conditions are :—
  - (1) Oxidation in an acid medium. This alone is insuf-
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  - ficient, the single example of permanganic acid shews that no complété results can be obtained by it.
  - (2) Slowness of oxidation. What is required is a moderate and progressive oxidation ; it is easy to conceive that a sudden action would destroy a portion of the insoluble black before being able to act efficaciously on the whole.
  - (3) An elevated température. The transformation of the black hardly takes place lower than 212° F.; at 176° F. it is much less complété. It is necessary to take advantage of the température to détermine a weak action which présents the oxygen in a nascent state. There are very few cases of oxidation where the ungreenable modification is obtained at a low température (ozonized air, oxides of chlorine.)
  - An oxidation which is at the same time acid, slow, and at a high température definitely modifies the finished aniline black, and renders it invulnérable to sulphurous acid ; this operation consequently protects the black against nearly all further spontaneous injury from action of the air, which was the only weakness of the splendid colour.
  - Reducing Agents upon Aniline Black.—None of the various reducing agents in the moist way, or more correctly speaking, none of the hydrogenizing Chemical reagents can in any degree bring back the peroxidized aniline black or the ungreenable black, into a state corresponding with the original blue-black; the intermediate violet-black is much less stable, and it sub-mits to this change under several treatments. We have already seen that this change is effected by simple contact with moderately concentrated hydrochloric acid, but in alkaline liquids it is realized without difficulty and by a great number of substances.
  - With sufficiently powerful reducing agents, properly chosen, the shades of the various aniline blacks, including the black at the maximum of peroxidation, are successively modified into yellowish green and olive when the solutions are acid, and into a bluish grey when they are alkaline, and finally, always into a very pale brown or buff as the last stage. There is
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  - probably formation of several hydrurets, and the insolubility in acids or alkalies is a constant feature, but we may remark that in most cases the feeblest oxidizing influence re-estab-lishes afterwards respectively the blue-black and the peroxi-dized black, such as they existed at the commencement. These two States of the aniline black are therefore completely distinct in their fundamental characters ; their apparent analogy during decolourization by hydrogénation is but of a momentary nature.
  - Sulphurous acid, sulphydric acid, and the sulphydrates, which have no action upon the peroxidized black, immediately change the ordinary black to a greenish yellow or pale olive, appearing to contract spécial combinations which oxidizing agents easily destroy.
  - We shall commence by examining, one by one, each of the last séries of facts, and we shall classify as much as possible the succeeding reducing actions into those effected in an alkaline, and those effected in an acid medium.
  - Action of Sulphurous Acid.—The action of this acid deserves to be first considered, on account of its activity as compared with other acids, as well as the peculiar action which it exercises upon certain colouring matters.
  - Sulphurous acid, in aqueous solution, strongly reddens litmus ; it is bibasic, and in combining with alkalies it forms :
  - (1) Salts which, in a state of purity, are neutral to litmus— the bisulphites. These salts have a tendency to disengage sulphurous acid at the ordinary température. Now as it is known sulphurous acid, in contact with water, is readily oxidized in the air, and more especially in the light, the bisulphites, therefore, soon contain sulphuric acid, which causes a further disengagement of sulphurous acid, and then it reddens litmus, which is ordinarily the case in solutions of this sait.
  - (2) Sulphites, on the contrary, have an alkaline action upon litmus. When litmus is reddened by sulphurous acid its colour is weakened, and at length disappears when the liquid is completely shut off from the air ; it recovers its colour immediately when treated by sulphuric acid, which, being a
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  - stronger acid, expels the sulphurous. The same thing takes place when the solution is carefully treated with chlorine, which couverts the sulphurous into sulphuric acid. We believe that sulphurous acid behaves in a similar way with aniline black, although the black never loses its colour completely.
  - Sulphurous acid and the bisulphites do not change the violet reagent (Violet de Paris). The mode of action of sulphurous acid appears, as far as regards acidity, to be the same as the weak acids, of which acetic acid and the biacetates are types, with this différence, however, that the methylaniline violet is immediately bleached in cases where the colour of litmus is only weakened.
  - With methylaniline violet the effect cannot be well seen except by adding drops of it upon the liquid, in the reverse way the colour disappears too rapidly for observation ; there remains, however, a trace of coloured substance in suspension, forming a sort of reddish fluorescence, which passes, after a little time, when the violet is completely destroyed.
  - The weaker acids themselves have an évident action upon ordinary aniline black, blue-black, and violet-black, although they cannot change the shade of the aniline violet ; such, for example, is the case with acetic acid as well as sulphurous acid.
  - Sulphurous acid has also a secondary chemical property of changing the blue-black and the violet-black to a character-istic yellowish green shade, distinct from that produced by other acids. This action, which I believe to be wrongly considered as one of réduction, is better viewed as the resuit of a simple combination of sulphurous acid with the non-oxygenated bases, which constitute the phenylamine black, having analogy with the known action of sulphurous acid upon several organic colouring matters. In these cases strong acids have a tendency to displace the sulphurous acid from its combination ; and the same thing takes place with the aniline black brought to the yellowish green State. Suitable oxidizing agents easily destroy the sulphurous acid, at the same time annulling the changes of colour produced by this body, just the same as with other colouring matters.
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  - A concentrated solution of an alkaline sulphite, containing a small excess of alkali, is without action upon aniline black or grey in the blue-black state. Thus, after washing, hydro-chloric acid only changes these specimens into a more or less dark greenish blue ; while the same colours, which have been first greened by sulphite (not alkaline) and then brought to the grey-blue by caustic alkali, take, after well washing, the yellowish green colour characteristic of sulphurous acid by the slightest contact with dilute hydrochloric acid. This fact is of itself sufficient to demonstrate that there exists, at least, a momentary but real combination between sulphurous acid and ordinary aniline black.
  - An aqueous solution of sulphurous acid, or a mixture of bisulphite of soda with a little hydrochloric acid, and much diluted with water, forms the best test liquor for testing the State of peroxidation of aniline black, or in other words, the degree of résistance of varions aniline blacks to those atmo-spheric influences which produce greening. This liquid should be kept in a well stoppered bottle, and in a dark place.
  - To test various black colours nothing more is required than to place a thin layer of the testing liquid upon a white plate and add bits of the coloured cloths ; it is best to tear, and not to eut with scissors, the bits to be tested, for then the fine fringe of the torn filaments which project allow the slightest variations of colour to be seen against the white ground of the plate.
  - As to spontaneous greening, it is most marked in moist air, and during the existance of fog and mist in cold weather. It takes place both in open and closed places, where illumina-ting gas is burned, or where coke and coal are used for fuel, that is where sulphurous gases exist, and is perceived on the folds where vapour condenses, and also in dew and hoar frost. However little sulphurous acid may be in the air it is rapidly concentrated upon a small surface of the cloth, which readily absorbs humidity, and the black in those places is liable to become green in a very short time.
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  - Hyposulphites.— Hyposulphite of soda, even at the boiling point, has no action whatever upon the different aniline blacks in the neutral state. The addition of the smallest quantity of free acid will, of course, give rise to the reaction of sulphurous acid.
  - Action of Sîdphydric Acid (Sulphuretted Hydrogen.)—An aqueous solution, freshly prepared, of sulphuretted hydrogen, which faintly reddens litmus, acts strongly upon aniline greys in a few seconds reducing their colour, and changes blacks, chromed or not, into an olive colour of greater or less intensity. Sulphuretted hydrogen has no action whatever upon the same colours which have been previously brought to the degree of peroxidation where they are ungreenable ; the différence being of the same kind and as distinct with sulphuretted hydrogen as with sulphurous acid.
  - The colours thus affected by sulphuretted hydrogen when exposed to the air change slowly to blue-green, and are rapidly brought to the same colour by oxidizing agents. The violet-black arising from the action of bichromates is brought to the state of blue-black.
  - A solution of colourless mono-sniphide of sodium with an excess of caustic soda has very little action in the cold upon washed-off blacks and greys, whether chromed or not. When it is very carefully neutralized by hydrochloric acid, all the colours become paler, but they are restored somewhat by washing. When examined in the moist state the blacks appear greened, the greys, whether chromed or not, are rather olive, and change after a while to green-blue ; the blacks and greys at the maximum of peroxidation are scarcely changed ; the violet-black appears to be destroyed.
  - With an excess of hydrochloric acid, and if hyposulphite exists in the liquid, there is a white precipitate, and the liquid has the reaction of sulphurous acid.
  - A solution of yellow sulphide of ammonium, such as is ordinarily used in laboratories, diluted with ten times its volume of water acts in three minutes, precisely as the
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  - mono-sulphide of sodium neutralized, but more quickly and more completely ; that is, the grey becomes and remains colourless as long as it is in the solution.
  - The same liquor neutralized by hydrochloric acid strongly reduces the colours above and changes ordinary black to a dark olive ; the black at the maximum of oxidation is not changed. After washing and drying in the air the yellow-green is obtained as with sulphurous acid ; the violet-black produced by chroming always takes a more yellow shade of green, but it is destroyed, as is easily shewn, by treatment with first weak acid and afterwards by alkali. It follows from the above experiments :—
  - (1) That sulphuretted hydrogen changes various finished aniline greys and blacks, and especially emeraldine, to an olive shade. Emeraldine remains insoluble, same as other colours of the same origin. In sulphuretted hydrogen and the sulphydrates (although the contrary was published in 1876), those agents which expel or destroy the sulphuretted hydrogen, restore the colours immediately.
  - (2) The simple treatment of the black with bichromate of potash even at the boiling point does not preserve it against the influence of sulphuretted hydrogen ; the spécial action which the bichromate has upon the black is even neutralized.
  - (3) The peroxidation of the black by boiling chromic acid renders the colours absolutely invulnérable to sulphuretted hydrogen.
  - Action of Hydrosulphites.—The hydrosulphite prepared with bisulphite of soda at 35° or 40° B. in contact with metallic zinc for twenty minutes warm, then diluted with ten or more times its bulk of water, decolourizes energetically all the aniline blacks in the cold, and still more rapidly when warm. The action is slower but precisely the same when an excess of caustic soda is added to the hydrosulphite ; it is complété in a few hours, and shews no further change after an interval of thirty hours. In all these cases'the aniline greys and blacks become nearly colourless or of a pale fawn shade, and are excessively prone to absorb oxygen, and then return
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  - to their original shades, possessing the same properties as before. In this decolourized state the changed black remains completely insoluble in either acids or alkalies. In this respect there exists an essential différence between them and the aniline greys and blacks lately obtained by M. Goppelsroeder by reducing the sulpho-acids of aniline black with glucose, since the latter reduced substances are soluble.
  - The colours which have been rendered ungreenable by the process of peroxidation are temporarily bleached like the others, but when exposed to the air they résumé their primitive appearance, and their insensibility to the action of sul-phurous acid and sulphuretted hydrogen.
  - After the acid hydrosulphite the blacks, washed in distilled water and dried slowly in the air, shew the same shades of yellow-green that they do with sulphurous acid, without change of intensity, The grey and violet-black, produced by bichromate, give only a green slightly more yellow than with the blue-black, a character which is generally observable. By treating the specimens afterwards with weak caustic soda the grey-blue is reproduced, and there is then no différence between the blacks which had been treated with bichrome or those simply washed off.
  - After the alkaline hyposulphite the blacks, washed and exposed to the air, are restored to the blue-black, identical with the colour washed off in alkali, and of precisely their original shade. The violet-black, derived from the bichromate treatment, is found brought to the state of blue-black.
  - The white of the cloth is not tinged by these various treat-ments in the réduction of the blacks.
  - The most striking point in these experiments is that not-withstanding the temporary decolourization, induced by the hydrosulphites, upon the peroxidized black, it retains its permanence after revival. The following experiment suffices to make this clear :—
  - All kinds of aniline blacks and greys when treated with acid hydrosulphite of soda and zinc, either hot or cold, remain insoluble, but are reduced to a pale buff tint ; in this stage it is impossible to distinguish one from another. The
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  - action of the oxygen of the air, or of aërated water, by destroying the effect of the hydrosulphurous acid, rapidly restores the colours to their original state, both as regards shade of colour and their other properties.
  - The restoration of the colour can be hastened, after wash-ing, by passing the cloth into a solution of sulphate of copper
  - Tested afterwards by sulphurous acid the ungreenable blacks change to grey, more or less reddish, while all the others are yellow-green. The contrast of the extreme spécimens is very striking, but these and the intermediate ones behave identically as they did before being subjected to the action of the hydrosulphite.
  - A remarkable fact is that the hydrosulphites appear to yield more hydrogen to the blacks than is actually required to reduce the colour to the extent stated above, thus, when the washed specimens are exposed to the air the blacks are seen to be slower in developing just in proportion as the hydrosulphite has been used stronger, or the time of its action prolonged. With an equal amount of hydrogénation the greys and blacks which have been peroxidized recover their colour first.
  - Alkaline Reducing Agents.—Pure caustic soda somewhat concentrated in the cold, and when hot diluted, slowly destroys the violet-black produced by the bichromates, and appears at first to give a greater intensity to the blue-black, so that there is less différence between the two shades. With boiling alkaline solutions all secondary action which may take place from the remains of starchy matters from the thickening must be carefully guarded against ; these matters can only be removed by frequent and prolonged macérations at 100° F., in décoction of malt, followed by washing and boiling in soap.
  - Even after having taken all précautions in this way, it is seen that after a few minutes’ boiling in caustic soda, light greys of different qualifies become weaker, but recover them-selves almost completely by exposure to air; the intermediate violet-black is changed to blue-black. The liquid becomes violet coloured, which colour it loses upon addition of acetic
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  - s N N S = A. s S 8 ta S S P
  - acid. Caustic soda at 3° to 6° B., with i per cent potato starch, causes the loss of colour of dark aniline greys, in a few moments boiling, down to a very pale buff, and peroxidized black to a light fawn ; the blue-black resists longer. The caustic itsélf acquires only a light reddish or violet colour. As soon as the colours are exposed to the air, or better still, when the liquor cools down sufficiently for the air to penetrate it, the colours become gradually darker until they have attained their original state, without any change in their properties.
  - When not more than one-thousandth part of potato starch is présent in caustic soda at 3° B., the temporary decolouration of the grey takes place in three or four minutes’ boiling. The action is less vigorous with more diluted soda.
  - After many other neutral soluble organic substances had been tried, principally of that class looked upon as hydrates of carbon, the above phenomena appeared general. Alkalies in solution tend to oxidize these substances, while presenting nascent hydrogen to the aniline blacks, which decolourizes them. The conversion of indigotine into indigo-white in hot alkaline solutions under the influence of pectine, as in Leuchs’ process, is analogous and typical of these reactions. The decolourizing of aniline black is effected under the same circumstances quite as easily as the reducing of indigo. That it has not hitherto been noticed in the numerous cases where it may have taken place, must be attributed to the fact that the régénération of the colour is nearly complété, and is effected so rapidly that the change would easily escape observation.
  - By heating the varions aniline blacks with caustic soda con-taining glucose, when the température reaches 160° F. the greys and blacks lose colour, and in two minutes’ boiling are brought down to the fawn shade, while the liquor becomes brown. In the course of washing, the colours revive with great rapidity, losing without doubt the hydrogen with which they had combined, it forming water with the oxygen of the air. It is the blue-black which is reproduced, while the violet-
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  - black is destroyed. As to the ungreenable blacks, when they are revived, they are still as before, invulnérable to sulphurous acids, etc., but the other blacks behave as at the first.
  - Clear lime water heated to boiling with specimens of printed aniline grey quite free from thickening acts by bringing them immediately into the blue-black state of the grey, when they had previously been in the corresponding violet-black state; after a few minutes it has a temporary decolourizing influence upon the greys at the maximum of oxidation. •
  - An addition of 200 of cane sugar to the boiling lime water gives it a more decided decolourizing influence upon the different aniline greys. The same takes place with caustic soda.
  - For the following experiments the alkaline solution was boiling, and contained % équivalent of caustic soda per litre :—
  - With the addition of one-thousandth of wheaten starch it decolourizes aniline grey as well as with the same proportion of potato starch. The caustic does not become coloured.
  - Gum arabic, 200 part also decolourizes it ; the liquor becomes yellow. With a thousandth part of gélose or Hai-thao, or with the same quantity of dextrine, the action is much more powerful. Medium greys are completely decolourized by three or four minutes’ boiling.
  - Milk sugar appears to possess the most powerful action, 5000 part suffices to produce the decolourization of the grey in a few minutes.
  - Glucose resembles the preceding in its action, though it is less quick than an equal weight of milk sugar. The liquor becomes first yellow, then brown by heating.
  - Amongst other organic matters the following in the quantifies set down produce an equal action with boiling caustic soda :—130 of pure glycérine, 200 egg albumen, sU- pure tannic acid, s0o gallic acid, 1000 pyrogallic acid; with pyrogallic acid the action commences in the cold. With 210 of rosin the decolouration of the grey is nearly completed at the beginning
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  - of the ébullition, but it is doubtless owing to the presence of some foreign matter and not to the rosin, for the action does not continue, and the colours at first rednced are revived even in the boiling liquor.
  - It is the same with 21 of gum senegal.
  - Gélatine, white Marseilles soap, aniline, and essence of tur-pentine shewed no action in these experiments.
  - By adding the following substances to boiling caustic soda no action was observed, viz. :—amylic alcohol, phenic acid, acétate of soda, formate of soda, and ferrocyanide of potassium.
  - Caustic soda at i équivalent per litre at the the boiling point with zinc powder or with sulphuret of arsenic, decolour-izes temporarily the various aniline blacks.
  - The same solution of soda with 5 per cent, of stannous chloride reduces aniline blacks very powerfully, bringing them to the fawn and buff shades produced by the hydrosulphites ; at the boiling point the action is very rapid. There exists a remarkable analogy between the results obtained by these varions ways. In every case the colours are equally ready to absorb oxygen and recover their original shades. The violet-black is destroyed, while on the other hand the peroxidized greys and blacks are reproduced without change, and enjoying all their characters same as after the action of the hydrosulphites.
  - In the course of spontaneous oxidation, it is observable that the ungreenable greys and blacks in general, are more quickly revived than the others.
  - As an application directly flowing from the part of this investigation, which concerns the alkaline reducing actions, there may be mentioned the easy change of the bronze-black of dyed yarn into the so-called black-black or blue-black so much in request for woven goods. The practical interest which this question always has is greater at présent because the majority of dyers effect the change of the aniline by means of bichromate of potash and hydrochloric acid, and generally produce the bronze-black. To transform this colour to the pure blue-black shade nothing more is necessary
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  - than to pass the goods for a few minutes, at a température between 190° and 212° F., into a caustic soda bath, at 372° Tw., containing about half per cent. of glucose.
  - Other Reducing Agents.—A mixture of glycérine, carbonate of soda, and hydrate of stannous oxide, heated to about 250° F., forms a liquid which becomes very alkaline, and which possesses a hydrogenizing action. It decolourizes indigo, as M. Prudhomme has recently shewn, but it still more easily acts upon aniline greys and blacks at their maximum state of oxidation than upon blue-black. After washing, the different aniline greys and blacks, which are reduced to a uniform pale brown, are generally restored to the précisé State they were in previously ; nothing is dissolved during the treatment, and the ungreenable colours still preserve their properties.
  - When on the contrary, stannous chloride is employed in feebly acid solution, the same action is observed in the cold as with sulphurous acid ; thus the blue-black is changed into yellowish green, while the blacks, at the maximum of peroxi-dation, resist the action and are ungreenable. By heating, the yellowish green tends to become olive, and the peroxi-dized grey becomes buff. After washing it is observed that the colours are somewhat changed and lighter.
  - Very dilute acids, in contact with pure zinc, even in powder, do not exercise any particular action upon the greys and blacks, which may be attributed to the insolubility of the active matters.
  - A solution of ferrous sulphate of iron (protosulphate), at 5 per cent., acidulated with hydrochloric acid gives, in the cold, a yellowish-green colour, analogous to that produced by sulphurous acid, the ungreenable black remaining unchanged. There is no different action upon boiling.
  - The Ferrocyanide of Potassium, acidulated, acts rather more strongly than the ferrous salts, and partially decolourizes the grey ; in the air they return to their primitive state. The colours, at the maximum of oxidization, do not undergo any alteration.
  - Cyanide of Potassium, pure, in 3 per cent, solution, acts only at boiling point and slowly. The ungreenable greys are
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  - those first acted upon, and acquire a pale buff colour, after-wards the other colours are acted upon. After washing, the action of the air quickly restores the greys and ungreenable blacks to their original state.
  - Arsenile of Soda solution, containing 3 per cent, of arsenious acid, has absolutely no action upon the various aniline blacks and greys, either cold or boiling the violet-black does not suffer the least change.
  - Hypophosphite of Soda, with excess of alkali, has no other action than caustic soda ; in neutral solutions at 5 per cent., even with boiling, there is no action. Even with the addition of hydrochloric acid nothing peculiar can be remarked. It is, however, known that aqueous solution of hypophosphorus acid is a powerful reducing agent. Thus, by treating the same liquid, below boiling, with sulphate of copper, there is first precipitated hydruret of copper, and lastly metallic copper. This exceptional case is worthy of notice.
  - To conclude, the detailed examination of the various aniline blacks has shewn that they are much more easily influenced by a great number of reagents, acid, or alkaline, oxidizing or reducing, than was generally thought to be the case ; but the black which has been submitted to peroxidizing influences under prescribed conditions, is found to have acquired in a durable manner certain perfectly distinct characters of stability which greatly increase its value.
  - These investigations are also interesting in so far as they enable the properties of the analogous alkaloids of coal-tar to be compared in similar positions to that of aniline. Notwithstanding all that has been said of the usefulness of the compounds of toluidine, etc.; the aniline black rests unquestionably the most important of all.
  - I feel pleasure, in conclusion, in acknowledging with thanks the assistance I have received in these researches from my friend M. N. Potier.
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  - Educts from Barzvood.—The late Thomas Anderson, M.D., F.R.S.E., has left an account of his researches upon Barwood, which is published in a recent number of the Journal of the Chemical Society. He says Barwood contains at least three colouring matters. Ether dissolves out two of these, and after-wards alcohol dissolves out a third. All are insoluble in benzol, all give puple lakes with acetate of lead and purple colourations with alkalies. Besides the colouring matters» some colourless principles were isolated which, from the botanical name of barwood (baphia nitida), have been called Baphum, Baphic acid baphinitin and baphinitone; these substances have only a purely scientific interest.
  - Rozien Industrial Society.—The Bulletin of this Society for the months of March and April, 1877, besides the articles which we extracted from it in a previous number, has some others of less interest for our readers. There are reports upon a so-called soluble aniline black offered for consumption by M. Collin. M. Glanzmann reports at some length his experiments upon it, but as he quite failed to obtain anything good, it is hardly worth while to follow all the details of his trials. M. Hommey reported upon the same article as regards it applicability to woollen dyeing, but here also the results obtained were un-satisfactory, the black was not good and not fast. According to the manufacturer, the soluble black is a product of the oxidation of aniline by nitro-benzine in presence of an organic acid.
  - In the same journal there is a description of a patented stretching or widening machine for calicoes, which is reported as possessing some advantages over the existing machines in respect of facility of use, power of control, smallness of space occupied, and lowness of price; its construction, is illustrated by elaborate plates.
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  - A.D. 1876, October llth.—No. 3929.
  - CRAWFORD, William. "Improvements in Bleaching, Wash-ing and Dyeing Yarns in Hanks, and in the Machinery or Apparatus employed therefor.”
  - The following is the provisional spécification of this patent; the complété spécification refers to four figures of the machinery, on one sheet, and is published at 6d.
  - “This invention has référencé to a new or improved mode and means or mechanism for carrying and conveying all kinds of thread or yarn in hanks, such as that of cotton, wool, silk, jute, or other fibrous material, through the liquid, steaming, or other troughs or chambers for treating the same in the process of bleaching, washing, or dyeing, all in a more simple, efficient, and expeditious manner than heretofore.
  - “And the nature and novelty of the invention consist in mounting two endless webs of network over and between two driving or drawing and nipping rollers at the upper part of one end of the machine driven and geared so as to actuate and draw the webs and yarn through the liquid troughs or other chambers, the one web being carried across from the top roller for a considérable distance nearly horizontally and over a guide roller at the opposite side of the machine ; the upper web being carried up over one or more rollers situated above the lower horizontal web, thence on to and over the same guide roller from which both webs undulate round and under a set of rollers at the bottom of the trough or chamber and up over a corresponding intermediate set of rollers at the top thereof, and finally pass out through between the nipping or drawing rollers before referred to, which are fitted in proper bush bearings and standards at the one end of the machine,
  - K
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  - where one of the roller spindles may be conveniently driven by belts and pulleys or other ordinary driving gear and fitted with stopping motions, the action of the machine being as follows :—
  - "The hanks of yarn to be bleached, washed, dyed, or otherwise treated, are spread in an open or other loose manner upon the top of the horizontal travelling web as it travels towards the guide roller, where the upper web then gripes the hanks as the two webs pass over the guide roller and carrying the hanks between them in the up and down, vertical, or other undulating manner, backwards through the troughs or chambers before referred to until they reach and pass through between the drawing rollers where the water or liquid may be pressed out of the hanks, and after passing over the upper relier the hanks are left free on the upper surface of this end of the lower horizontal web ready to be lifted away as the upper web rises over its opening and guiding rollers, leaving the upper surface of the lower web free for the réception of fresh hanks as before described to be carried and treated in like manner through the troughs or machine.
  - "Although nets have been described for the carrying and griping of the hanks of yarn, it is to be understood that wide meshed wire cloth, or a sériés of endless bands or cords of wire cloth or other material might be used instead.”
  - A.D. 1876, October 18th.-No. 4031.
  - Birch, William. "Improvements in Squeezing Machines.” ( This Invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - " Instead of the expensive sycamore, cotton, rubber, or other flexible rollers used in squeezing machines for bleach works, and the like purposes, I employ métal, being much more durable and cheaper in use ; but in order to attain the same conditions, as if the rollers were made of more flexible material, I form one of the two with a groove in the direction of the circumference. In this groove the other flat or male roller fits tightly at the top or edges of the groove ; but at the bottom thereof, that is, at the face of the female roller,?I allow
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  - a little more room, so as to make the groove wider there, in order that the cloth when it is being carried through the groove and between the rollers may not bind between the sides of the groove and the ends of the female or fiat roller, and be eut or torn by the latter.
  - “When working continuons from the squeezer to the drying or other machine, I do not drive the squeezer direct, but em-ploy a regulating motion of any known construction, a pair of conical drums with a strap shifting arrangement being found convenient. In such a case the cloth passes through a pot eye at the end of a bell-crank lever, and when the drying or other machine is standing and takes no cloth, the bell-crank will hold the strap fork on the loose pulley at the end of one of the drums ; but if the drying or other machine is started and requires cloth, the strain on the same through the pot eye on the bell-crank will shift the strap on to the drum, and in such a position on the same as to drive the squeezer at the exact speed at which the cloth is taken by the following machine.
  - " Important points in this invention are,—
  - " The slight conicity given to the groove of the roller, by the adoption of which the arrangement becomes alone practical and useful.
  - " Also the application of a regulating motion to the driving of the squeezer, as described, or other similar machinery; and, further, these improvements when applied either singly or combined.”
  - A.D. 1876, November 28th.-No. 4598.
  - Cooper, FREDERICK. " Improvements in the Construction of Apparatus Employed for Finishing Velvets and Velveteens and other similar Piled Fabrics.”
  - " This invention relates to the ordinary machines employed for finishing or ‘ pegging’ velvets, velveteens, and other similar piled fabrics, the object of the invention being to enable such to finish the fabrics up to the front end of the piece, or nearly so, instead of leaving about a yard unfinished which required to be afterwards finished by hand as usually practised.
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  - " In place of the ordinary plain tension roller close to the lower end of the ‘finishing-plate’ in such machine, I mount a roller covered with wire card, and on one end of such roller I fix a ratchet wheel provided with a pawl. The velvet or other fabric to be finished, passes over this wire card roller, then back under a plain tension roller placed beneath the plate, and then forward to the ordinary card covered roller which draws the piece through the machine. The conséquence of this arrangement is that as the wire card on the first-named roller takes a firm hold on the back of the velvet or other fabric and the ratchet wheel prevents the action of the ‘peg‘ from drawing the velvet or other piled fabric backwards, and thus the finishing or ‘pegging’ of the said fabric may be com-menced close to the front end thereof instead of about a yard from the end as ordinarily practised.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification. The complété spécification with one drawing, is published at 4d.
  - A.D. 1876, December 23rd.—No. 4970.
  - Ashcroft, James. " Improvements in the Construction of Bleaching Kiers.”
  - " This invention relates partly to kiers used for bleaching goods, such as require the headings to remain outside the kier during the bleaching operation, and partly to kiers used for bleaching other goods.
  - " In bleaching goods such as muslins with gold headings and other goods with coloured headings which will not bear bleaching, it has been usual to leave the cover off the kier and to allow the headings to hang over the edge.
  - “To obviate the necessity for leaving the kier open, I form two openings in the opposite sides of the kier at the top, and when placing the goods in the kier I pass the headings out through these openings. Over the headings are placed blocks of wood of suitable form, and above these a plate of iron furnished with a groove in the edge. This plate of iron is then screwed down by means of bolts until it is level with the top of the kier, forcing down the wood block and holding the headings firmly between it and the bottom of the opening.
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  - The groove in the edge of the plate is now level with the sliding cover of the kier which may be then slipped into the groove and closed in the ordinary manner. The screw bolts are enclosed in grooved bars so as to prevent them from coming into contact with the goods. The sides and bottom of the openings are also made with grooves, so that when it is not required to leave the headings outside the kiers, sliding plates or shutters may be lowered into the groove so as to close the openings entirely.
  - " Another part of my invention consists of an arrangement applied to the safety valve to shut off the steam at any given pressure. At the bottom of the pipe leading to the safety valve I have a smaller valve calculated to lift at a lower pressure (say, at about half-a-pound less to the square inch). The spindle of this valve works through a perforated plate, and when the steam in the kier has reached a pressure of half-a-pound below that at which the safety valve would blow off, it lifts this small valve, and the steam thus liberated lifts a cup-shaped valve above it, the rod of which passes out, steam-tight, through the rod of the safety valve, and is attached at its upper end to one end of the lever. This lever is supported on a fulcrum at the centre, and its other end is connected by a slotted link to the key of a tap in the steam pipe which admits steam to the kier, the resuit of which arrangement is that as soon as the steam lifts the smaller valve, its rod causes the lever to close the steam tap partially, so as to reduce the amount admitted. This amount may be regulated by alter-ing the length of the link, or by engaging the key of the tap in a different slot.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification only ; the complété spécification, with six figures on two sheets of drawings, is published at 6d. It may be noted that, between the application for and sealing of the patent, James Ashcroft died, his widow and administratrix, who completed the patent, says, “With regard to the second part of the invention, as described in the provisional spécification, I wish to remark that my late husband made no communication to me, and I cannot find that he made any models or drawings of the same, and
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  - therefore I do not wish to lay any claim to this part of the invention.”
  - A.D. 1876, December 30th.-No. 5055.
  - Gedge, William Edward. " Improvements in the Manufacture of the Hydrocarburets of Coal Tar, and of the Amines derived therefrom.” A communication from Leon Hiernaux. ( This invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - The provisional spécification is a short treatise, from an original point of view, concerning aniline and its analogues ; it is full of Chemical symbols and formulae. The only point of practical information as to the idea of the inventor would appear to be in a paragraph where it is stated.
  - " In short, by this invention aniline may be manufactured directly and with great economy, by heating together in a closed vessel coal-tar and ammonia, but it requires practical conditions, proper proportions, and uniformity of mixture, température, pressure, and duration of the reaction.”
  - A.D. 1877, January 8th.—No. 84.
  - BiRCH, WILLIAM. " Improved Self-acting Machinery for Opening, Smoothing, Spreading, and Guiding Fabrics for the use of Bleachers, Dyers, Calico Printers, and others.”
  - “The objects of my invention are certain improvements of the apparatus composing the machine, for which Letters Patent, No. 2610, dated ist October, 1870, were granted to me, by which improvements such machines become more easily adjustable for work, are much simplified, and their manufacture facilitated.
  - “ The improvements consist in the substitution of revolving rollers or cylinders having right and left handed screw threads on their surface in the place of the endless chains or bands that draw out the fabric, passing through the machine laterally from the centre towards the selvages. The screw threads project considerably above the surface of the rollers, and are formed of some thin material that has some grip upon the cloth or fabric without being sharp and cutting ; they run from the centre towards the ends to the right and left 011
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  - one roller or pair of rollers, and to the left and right on the second or second pair, gearing respectively with the former or former pair. These rollers can be applied in the same way as the chains or bands used hitherto, and as described and set forth in my spécification before mentioned, in which case I modify the modes of driving in the ordinary way. I prefer, however, to employ one pair or two rollers going right across the machine, instead of two pairs as at présent arranged. They are either placed side by side or one above the other, according to circumstances. The axis of the one that receives a revolving motion by means of wheels or pulleys is station-ary. This one imparts motion to the other roller by means of spur wheels or bands from the centre. The second or driven roller is supported in such a manner that it may oscillate longitudinally round an axis perpendicular to its own axis, and the plane in which it may oscillate so as to get near to the other roller on one side and farther away from the other side, i.e., form an angle with it. This is effected by means of an oblong swivel frame surrounding the swivel roller, and carrying at its ends the bearings in which the roller revolves, the frame itself being supported on two arms projecting from the centre of its longer sides. The swivel roller is connected to the regulator in a similar manner as the endless chains or bands before described, so that the material which is passing through the machine, when running from its central course to one side, acts upon the regulator, which in its turn brings the swivel roller nearer to the other on that side, from which the material has gone, thus increas-ing the hold of the screw threads upon the material on that side, while on the other side the opposite is taking place, the effect being similar to that described in the spécification alluded to.
  - " Important points in my invention are the substitution of screw rollers for endless bands or chains, the arrangement of the gearing between the two rollers, the swivel support of one of them, and the combination of the swivel roller with the governor or regulator.”
  - The foregoing is the provisional spécification only, the
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  - complété spécification, illustrated by six figures of the machinery upon one sheet of drawings, is published, price 6d.
  - A.D. 1877, January 12th.-No. 169.
  - Tongue, John Garrett. " Improvements in Means and Processes for Obtaining Colouring Matters from Cannel, Anthracite, and other Coals, Applicable to Varions Useful Purposes.” A communication from Doctor Meusel, of Breslau. (This invention receivedprovisionalprotection only.)
  - " According to this invention, fossil coal, or cannel coal, or anthracite or boghead coal, are treated advantageously in fine powder with oxidizing chemical compounds by ordinary or higher températures in suitable vessels.
  - " The most advantageous method of carrying out these improvements, is to heat the different coals finely powdered with nitric acid or with potassic or sodic nitrate and sulphuric acid. Also potassic chlorate or potassic chromate, or hypo-chloride of lime or compounds of maganese, may be used for the reaction with or without an acid.
  - " By the action of nitric acid or nitrates with acids, compounds of nitrogen with oxygen are developed, which are to be used in the manufacture of sulphuric acid or of salts con-taining nitrogen bound to oxygen.
  - “Coals treated in the above manner undergo a great change; a great part of the coal can now be extracted by caustic or alkalis, and by ammonia, or by the carbonates of soda or potassium or ammonia advantageously by heating the solution of alkalis with the product of the above treatment, a deep brown coloured solution and a black residue is so obtained.
  - " The black residue is a deep black covering colour, which may be used for lime colour (glue colour) or oil colour, or with bone black, or instead of bone black, soot or graphite. It may also be applied for the black for printing or for black-ing and washing, painting, besprinkling, or other like purposes.
  - “The brown solution of the alkali salts may be used directly for colouring, for instance, by fluids, by soap, or otherwise.
  - “ The solutions give by evaporating the alkali salts, and by
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  - décomposition with metallic salts, new salts of metals which. are to be used as colours.
  - " By the method of décomposition the salts of strontian, of barium, of magnesia, of aluminium, of maganese, of iron, of cobalt, of nickel, of zinc, of cadmium, of lead, of tin, of copper, and chromic oxyde are obtained. All these bodies are black or black-brown or brown colours, which may be mixed with other colouring matters. They can be used for painting, printing, and colouring. These colours are obtained as précipitâtes, and can be purified by water.
  - " The alkali solution can also be decomposed by the soluble metallic salts above (cotton or wool) and may so be used by the dyer.
  - " The alkali solution can also be decomposed by acids ; a black-brown precipitate is obtained which may be washed in water, and which may also be used as a colouring matter. This black precipitate is the acid in which the coals are partly converted by the treatment with oxydizing compounds.
  - " By the above described means, fossil coal is oxydized, and the black residue obtained by the décomposition of the oxydized fossil coal may be applied as a colouring matter to various useful purposes.
  - " The product of the oxydation of fossil coal is soluble in alkalis, and the compounds of this product of oxydation may be applied as a colouring matter to various useful purposes.”
  - A.D. 1877, January 20th.-No. 266.
  - Chadwick, JAMES. "Improvements in Printing Textile Fabrics.” (A communication from James Harley, of Massachusetts.)
  - “This improvement is in relation to the one for which Letters Patent were granted to me bearing date the 2ist day of February, 1876, No. 717, being, like the présent one, a communication from the said James Harley, of Lowell, United States of America, and consists in printing or apply-ing fast greens, blues, violets, or purples, known by the name of iodine or methyl greens, blues, and violet colours on textile fabrics, either by themselves or in combination with or simul-
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  - taneously with alizarine or madder extract colours, or any other colours which after printing have to be aged, steamed, and soaped, or washed off.
  - “The invention is carried ont as follows :—I take for my green colour at the rate of about one gallon of sumac extract, one gallon of acetic acid, two gallons of water, eight pounds of crystal starch ; boil, then add two pounds of tartaric acid ; cool, then add twelve ounces of methyl green. The colour is then ready for printing on the cloth.
  - “To make my blue and purple I take at the rate of one gallon of sumac extract, one gallon acetic acid, two gallons water, eight pounds crystal starch; boil, then add two pounds of tartaric acid ; cool, then add aniline purple or blue, according to shade required. The colour is then ready for printing on the cloth. I take cloth which has been bleached, and pass it on to the printing machine, when the colours are printed on. The printed cloth is then aged by hanging up two or three days, or passed through an ageing machine. The printed cloth is then steamed, and afterwards passed through the soaping or washing operations, and finished in the usual manner of printed fabrics.
  - “Having now described the nature and particulars of the said invention, I desire it to be understood that I do not confine myself to the exact proportions or materials herein-before described, as an expert chemist may substitute materials for many of them, but what I claim is,—
  - “ First. The improved process of making iodine or methyl greens, violets, and blue colours fast by the means described.
  - “ Secondly. Printing in fast iodine or methyl greens, violets, and blues, fixed as described, either alone or in combination with alizarine or madder extract colours, or any other colours which are aged and steamed after printing without being dyed.”
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  - 1—,
  - Colouring Matters, Dyes, Pigments.
  - 674. Michel Edmond SAVIGNY, Chemist, and Alfred Charles Collineau, Doctor in Medicine, both of Boulevard St. Denis, 1, at Paris, for an invention of "The manufacture of an improved vegetable colouring substance and the dérivatives thereof.”—Dated 19th February, 1877.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 2602. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the invention of “An improved manufacture of red colour."—A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2614. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the invention of " Improvements in the manufacture of violet colour.”—A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2649. Ad ALBERT WACHHAUSEN, of Wiesbaden, Germany, Doctor of Philosophy, for the invention of “An improved brown colour or dye and process for obtaining the same.”—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2841. Félix de Lalande, of Rue d’Enfer, 22, at Paris, Civil Engineer, for an invention of " Improvements in the treatment of alizarine for the production of different colours or hues there-from in dyeing and printing.”—Dated i8th August, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 1425. John Casthelaz, of 19 Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, in the city of Paris, Merchant, for an invention of " Improvements in the manufacture of artificial alkaloids derived from coal tar, and in the préparation of salts of the said alkaloids.”— Dated i8th May, 1870.—The 10o stamp duty has been paid.
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- - 152 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - 186,485. L. Leigh, of Pittsfield, Mass., for "Preparing aniline dyes.”—Application filed 23rd October, 1876.—United States.
  - 42,533. H. Dequin, for " A new dye for cloth, wool, &c.”—Dated 28th June, 1877.—Belgian.
  - Bleaching.
  - 2945. Richard Pendlebury, of Newton Heath, near Manchester, in the county of Lancaster, Bleacher, for an invention of " Im-provements in apparatus used in bleaching.”—Dated ist August, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2991. Adolphe Viol and Cesaire Pierre Duflot, of Paris, (France), Manufacturers, for an invention of " A new process of bleaching feathers.”—Dated 6th August, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 1900. Adolph Alexandre Plantrou, jeune, of Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23, Paris (France), Director of Manufacture, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of "An improved process of scouring and purifying vegetable and animal fibres and fabrics.”
  - 6. T. D. Brochocki and Co., of Paris, for " A decolouring agent, called ‘ Concret d’eau de Javelle.’ ”—3 years.—Dated 6th January, 1877.—Grand Duchy of Baden.
  - Printing and Dyeing.
  - 2513. William Morgan-Brown, of the firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, South-ampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of "Improve-ments in printing textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Henry Dow Dupee, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, United States of America.
  - 3123. Edwin Thurmand, of Batley, in the county of York, for an invention of “An improved method of forming patterns or designs on felted fabrics.”—Dated i6th August, 1877.—Application.
  - 89. F. Herold, of Vienna, for “A machine for printing kerchiefs.” —3 years.—Dated 5th June, 1877.—Grand Duchy of Baden.
  - 186,620. Julius Rau, of Stuttgart, Germany, for “Processes for dyeing silks.”—Application filed 4th August, 1876.—United States.
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PATENTS.
  - ©
  - I—,
  - Squeezing and Drying Machines.
  - 1005. William SUMNER, of Manchester, in the county of Lancaster, Merchant, for an invention of "Improvements in apparatus for drying yarn, woven fabrics, and other materials."—A communication to him from abroad by Messieurs Tulpin Brothers, of Rouen, France, Machine Makers.—Dated 13th March, 1877.— This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 1356. William Birch, of Salford, in the county of Lancaster, Machinist, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in squeezing machines.”
  - 2766. John Stott, of the firm of John Stott and Brothers, of Wardle, near Rochdale, in the county of Lancaster, Woollen Manufacturers, and John Barker, of the firm of Jonathan Barker and Sons, of Todmorden, in the county of York, Engineers, for an invention of " An improved machine or apparatus for dyeing textile fabrics.”—Dated roth August, 1874. —The 50 stamp duty has been paid.
  - Yarn Treatments.
  - 698. John Stirling Alston, Merchant, and William Reid, Dye Works Manager, both of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “Improvements in apparatus to be used in connection with various processes of treating yarns with liquids.”—Dated 2oth February, 1877.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 2658. Thomas Dickins, Albert Langley Dickins, and Harvey Heywood, all of Middleton, in the county of Lancaster, Dyers and Printers, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus used in dyeing yarns or threads of silk.”—Dated 3oth July, 1874.—This patent is void.
  - 41. K. H. Weisbach, of Chemnitz, for “A rotary machine for drying yarn.”—3 years.—Dated 3rd March, 1877.—Grand Duchy of Baden.
  - Wool Treatments.
  - 2208. André' Prosper Rochette, of Petit-Quevilly, près Rouen, in the republic of France, for the invention of “ Improvements in washing wool, and in solutions employed for this purpose.”— Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 425,16. A. Dicktus, for “Aprocessfor rendering vegetable sub-
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- - 154 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - stances in woollen fabrics invisible.”—Dated 26th Juue, 1877.— Belgian.
  - Finishing Treatments.
  - 859. John Wilson, of the firm of John Wilson and Company, and William Cochrane, both of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britian, for an invention of " Improvements in hot pressing textile fabrics and in the machinery or apparatus employed therefor.”—Dated 3rd March, 1877.—This patent has passed the great seal.
  - 1066. Samuel Milne Smith, Charles Telford Smith, and William Binns, of the firm of Samuel Smith and Company, of Bradford, in the county of York, Dyers and Finish ers, have given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of " Improvements in finishing ‘moreens’ and corded fabrics.”
  - 1210. William Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for stretching fabrics.” A communication to him from abroad by Alfred François Lacas-saigne, of Paris, in the republic of France.
  - 2724. Bristow Hunt, of Serle Street, Lincoln’s Inn, in the county of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the invention of " Improvements in machinery for plaiting fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Hermann Albrecht, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2748. John Smith, of Collyhurst, in the city of Manchester, Bleacher, Dyer, and Finisher, for an invention of " Improvements in beetling machines.”—Dated 8th August, 1874.—This patent is void.
  - 1. P. Magner, of London, for "Aprocess of treating vegetable fibres to impart to them a silky appearance, and for preparing them for dyeing.”—3 years.—Dated 2nd Jannary, 1877.—Grand Duchy of Baden.
  - 82. R. W. Wallace, of London, for " Treatment of vegetable fibres for giving them a silky appearance and preparing them for dyeing.”—1 year.— (Secret.)—Dated 6th March, 1877.— Austrian.
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 22.] OCTOBER, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - I. Loss and Recovery of Indigo from Vais.
  - AT varions times attention has been directed to the recovery of indigo from the vat bottoms after the colouring matter had been abstracted as far as possible by the usual dyeing processes. Most dyers who have attempted to recover the indigo believed to exist in the vat bottoms have not found it worth while continuing the processes, the indigo actually recovered scarcely paying for the cost of material and labour. Some experiments have lately been made upon this subject which we find recorded in the Muster Zeitung, No. 33, 1877, and are worth recording. M. Feron doubted if there was any appréciable quantity of indigo left in the vat bottoms when the whole process had been conducted with proper care, and he made an experiment to ascertain whether he was right. He set a vat with 5 kilogrammes (11 1b.) of Bengal indigo, using copperas and lime in the usual way, and then dyed in it until it was exhausted ; he then run the clear liquid into a cask and collected the bottoms in another and added hydro-chloric acid to both until the liquids were acid. This was with the intention of dissolving out all the free lime and the oxide of iron, so as to set free any indigo that might be combined or held back by these substances ; after the liquids had settled, the clear fluid portion was run away and the insoluble matters collected upon a linen filter and washed
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  - several times with water. These insoluble matters weighed 6 kilogrammes, and must have contained whatever indigo there was left in the vat after the conclusion of the dyeing. To ascertain if there was any indigo in the substance it was dried, finely pulverized and treated with Nordhausen sul-phuric acid, afterwards diluted with water, filtered, and the liquid examined in a colorimeter, but no trace of blue colour could be seen. Again the residue was treated with a large quantity of hydrochloric acid, and tested again to see if it would yield any sulphate of indigo, but none was obtained. Hence, M. Feron concluded that the residue contained no indigo, and that the dyer had no reason to fear loss of indigo in dye vats if the indigo is properly ground ; or at any rate, that the amount of colouring matter lost was so insignificant that it was not worth while recovering.
  - These experiments were reported upon by M. B. Tantin, who repeated them with some variations. He observes that Berzelius stated that when an excess of lime was in contact with reduced indigo it formed an insoluble compound which could not therefore be useful in dyeing, and must lead to a loss of colouring matter. But the experience of scientific and practical men as Schlumberger and Schwartz do not confirm this statement of Berzelius, while others incline to admit it. Calvert reports that by simply treating vat bottoms with hydrochloric acid, a considérable quantity of indigo can be recovered, and quotes a case in which indigo to the value of 120 francs was recovered at a cost of 50 francs. Tantin repeats the account of Feron’s trial, stating that the indigo used contained 62’5 per cent, of indigotine, that the greatest care was taken in setting the vat, and that it was exhausted by dyeing to the utmost extent. He re-examined the residue obtained by Feron, but in a different manner ; instead of Nordhausen sulphuric acid he employed the powerful reducing agent hydrosulphite of soda, which shewed the presence of indigo, and by repeatedly treating the residue as long as it shewed any signs of indigo he eventually obtained r020 grammes of indigotine from 50 grammes of the residue, that is about 2 per cent, of its weight. To calculate what
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  - percentage relation this bore to the original quantity of indigo employed, and using the French weights, it is found first that 5 kilogrammes of indigo at 6215 per cent, are equal to 3*125 kilogrammes of indigotine, and that the residue weighing 6 kilogrammes would therefore contain 122'004 grammes of indigotine, that is, 3-92 per cent, of the indigo used, or nearly 4 per cent. Tantin considers that this loss is not considérable, and that the process of indigo dyeing leaves but little to desire, and concludes that the only point requir-ing attention is to have a very perfect grinding of the indigo ; neglect of this may lead to very considérable loss.
  - If an actual loss of 4 per cent, of the indigo took place in an experiment which was conducted so as to prove, if possible, that no loss took place, with extraordinary care in the grinding of the indigo and préparation of the vat, and the vat exhausting by dyeing to the utmost, it may be suggested that it is very probable, under ordinary circumstances, with less careful working, and less exhaustive dyeing, that double and treble the amount may be lost.
  - Nothing is said in the report of the experiments as to what was dyed in the vat, whether cotton or wool, or whether, if cotton, plain cotton or printed with resists. If only plain cotton goods were dyed there was nothing to disturb the State of the vat, and it might be very completely exhausted, but the case is different in dyeing goods printed with resists, for these precipitate the indigo in a state in which it is not easily redissolved by the copperas and lime, and much more indigo would remain in the bottoms than with plain goods.
  - In Underwood’s paper upon the subject of recovery of indigo* it is shewn that the vat bottoms from the navy blue style of dyeing do contain a considérable quantity of indigo ; whether it will payfor extraction must dépend upon a variety of circumstances, but that there is unexhausted indigo in all vat bottoms must be évident to the most supeificial obsvera-tion. M. Feron's attempt to extract the indigo left in the bottoms by means of sulphuric acid, thinking to make sulphate
  - * Textile Colourist, 1, p. 193.
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  - of indigo of it, shews but little knowledge of the subject. Underwood States that orpiment and soda are the best materials to use in practice, but even this powerful mixture has to be repeatedly boiled with the bottoms to extract all the indigo, and he mentions as many as twelve or fourteen successive boilings. At the time this paper was written hydrosulphite of soda was not known ; it is doubtful whether it is more energetic than orpiment and soda, but M. Tantin had no difficulty in extracting indigo by its means from the residue declared to contain none, and correcting the too hasty conclusions of M. Feron.
  - There must be loss of colouring matter in nearly every kind of dyeing. • It cannot be expected that the water will yield up the whole of the dye in solution to cloth, even in those cases where the water seems colourless, as in some cases of dyeing with aniline colours it is seen by looking at it in bulk that there is colour left which may amount to 4 per cent., more or less, of the dyestuff employed. There is no dyestuff, however, which can be recovered as indigo can be, or which will stand or repay so many treatments. The necessity of a thorough grinding of indigo is well understood by the English dyers. It is often ground night and day for three or six weeks. There is not much room for improvement on that score ; but it would be well that they should examine their vat bottoms to ascertain that they are not losing indigo from other causes and throwing it away.
  - 2. Materials for a History of Textile Colouring.—No. 7.
  - Nitrate of Tin, or Dyers' Aquafortis.—The following article is extracted from the notes to Parkes’ Chemical Catechism, fourth édition, 1810. It is interesting in an historical point of view as being evidently written from direct observation
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  - and communications with practical men, and contains some curions statements upon the properties of nitric acid.
  - “This article (dyers’ aquafortis) is used for dissolving tin to form a mordant for fixing some of the most valuable colours on woollen cloths. In employing this acid the dyers in the Metropolis generally proceed thus :—A carboy of aquafortis is measured out into a large earthen pan, with from i to 2 quarts of water for every gallon of the acid, and the whole is well mixed by stirring it with a strong wooden spatula.
  - Supposing simple aquafortis to be used, the quantity of water to be employed amounts to about one-third of the whole ; but as no fixed rule can be given, this is left to the discrétion of the workman, who apportions the quantity according to the nature and strength of the acid he is using. When the aquafortis and water are thus united, a few handsful of grain tin are then thrown in such a manner as nearly to cover the whole of the bottom of the jar. An action imme-diately commences, and if the aquafortis be properly prepared and the tin uniformly spread, the solution goes on regularly, and no more heat is generated than is necessary to keep up a a proper action.
  - If a froth appears upon the surface, the whole is well stirred with the spatula for a few seconds, as it is known that the froth is frequently occasioned by the tin lying in heaps at the bottom of the vessel. When the tin is dissolved more is thrown in, and stirred as before as occasion requires. If the aquafortis be pure, it will now be necessary to add a portion either of common sait or salammoniac to the mixture, which is given in such quantities, and such intervals, as the appear-ances of the acid may suggest. Here the discrétion of the workman is the only guide ; for in this as in many other cases, practice instructs better than precept.
  - When rather more than half the usual quantity of the tin is dissolved, the liquor begins to turn, as it is termed ; that is, a portion of the yellow oxide collects round the mass of tin at the bottom of the vessel, which when stirred gives colour to the supernatant liquor. When the aquafortis is in a proper state, the colouring always commences at the bottom of the jar, which
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  - increases on the further addition of the tin till the whole liquor acquires the colour of rum, or rather of bright amber. If the aquafortis be good these appearances always take place ; if not, the tin may dissolve, but the liquor as it becomes saturated will acquire a milky, instead of a yellow appearance, which shews that the tin is improperly oxidized by the acid, and that such aquafortis is totally unfit for use.
  - It lias been doubted whether a solution of tin could be made with pure nitric acid, and this much is certain, that the tin will remain only a short time in solution unless a portion of muriatic acid also be présent. The mordant, therefore, that the dyers use for scarlets is a proper nitromuriate of tin. In order to produce this, that is, to couvert the nitric to the nitromuriatic acid, it is that common sait or salammoniac is employed ; for either of these salts becomes decomposed by the aquafortis, and the muriatic acid thus liberated performs its part in composing the solution.
  - Aquafortis is employed in a variety of trades, such as brass founders, silver refiners, gilders, leather dyers, and calico printers ; but such aquafortis would be very improper for dyeing woollen cloths. Nothing can be better known to the dyers in the large way, than that the majority of the aquafortis that is manufactured is entirely unfit for dyeing scarlet. Few there are of this occupation who have not occasionally met with an article of this kind ; and whenever this happens they know of no remedy but that of exposing it to the atmosphère to absorb oxygen, or laying it by for nine or twelve months to acquire age as they term it.
  - Formerly, the difficulty of making good dyers’ aquafortis was so great that the whole which was consumed in these Kingdoms was actually imported from Holland, and there are people now living who remember the time when they never thought of using any but Dutch aquafortis. Owing, however, to various causes, the English dyers are now generally supplied from London, or by some particular manufacturers in the country who have paid a particular attention to the production of this distinct article. But even now there is so much uncertainty in it that many large dyers
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- - NITRATE O F TIN MORDANT. 161
  - never use any aquafortis till it has lain in their warehouses for twelve months, that the component particles of the acid may unité more intimately and thereby form that mild form of aquafortis which readily dissolves tin without rendering any part of it an insoluble oxide.
  - Often reflecting on the inconveniences tlius resulting to the dyers ; also, on the loss of interest upon a large capital thus lying dormant; and on the disappointment often arising from the use of a proper article, I instituted a séries of experiments on nitrous acid in the hope of removing these difficulties ; and it is only since the publication of the second édition of the Chemical Catechism that I was enabled to discover that if aquafortis be distilled in a peculiar way it is as fit for the use of the dyer in twelve days as it is after being kept twelve months. The knowledge of this fact is the reward of some thousand experiments, attended with considérable expense and of several years patient investigation.
  - To those persons who are not sufficiently acquainted with the process of forming the solution of tin, a few directions may perhaps be acceptable.
  - (1) To préparé the tin, melt it in an iron ladle, and continue it on the fire till it be considerably hotter than its melting point. When in this state let one man pour it from a height of several feet into a tub of cold water, while another constantly agitâtes the water with a few wooden rods.
  - (2) In making the mixture of aquafortis and water, use as little water as possible, consistent with the nature of the aquafortis employed.
  - (3) In adding the first portion of tin, put in such a quantity as by its action shall soon raise the température of the liquor to about 1000 F. To effect this a larger quantity must be added in winter than in summer. If the aquafortis be good it is best to stir the mixture incessantly for about five minutes on the first addition of the tin, which hastens and improves the process. Much, however, of the aquafortis that is sold would fire, as it is termed, by this treatment ; that is, the violence of the action would décomposé the acid, a great part of which would evaporate and be entirely lost in dense red fumes.
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  - (4) When the mass has acquired the heat before mentioned, the tin should be added in such portions only as will preserve it at about the same température.
  - (5) Add no sait to the solution till there is an appearance of white oxide collecting at the bottom of the jar. If sait be then added and stirred with the mixture, this oxide will be taken up with the fluid.
  - (6) If the solution of tin be designed for dyeing a perfect flame-coloured scarlet, be careful to add no more sait than is absolutely necessary to keep the tin in solution. If a rose-coloured scarlet be desired it will be désirable to add a further portion of sait, according to the colour intended to be produced.
  - (7) When the solution has acquired the proper colour no more tin should be added, as a saturated solution of tin does not produce such bright colours as one that is in a lower state of saturation. The quantity of tin employed is generally about an eighth of the weight of the aquafortis in which it is dissolved.
  - It will be of some interest to compare this account, dating probably from about 1800, with another practical account of the préparation of the same mordant three-quarters of a century later. This is to be found in the Chemical Review for November, 1875, and bears all the marks of coming from some one intimately acquainted, both scientifically and prac-tically, with the matter. The following is from the notes on mordants in that publication :—" In a great many establishments where cochineal colours form a prominent department we shall see an experienced workman pour into a broad and perfectly clean stoneware bowl a certain known quantity of a liquid which he désignâtes ‘ single aquafortis,’ and which is otherwise known as ‘ dyers’ aquafortis,’ it being required by no other consumers of nitric acid. If we examine this liquid we shall find that it marks about 32° or 33° Tw. It is colour-less, and, if tested, will be found perfectly free from sulphuric acid, and, as far as possible, from the lower oxides of nitrogen. But if diluted with distilled water, and mixed with a few drops of solution of nitrate of silver, a white curd-like
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- - NITRATE O F TIN MORDANT. 163
  - precipitate appears, shewing the présence of a certain quantity of muriatic acid. Having put the acid in the bowl he weighs out fine grain bar tin, not feathered, in proportion of i 1b. métal to every 8 1b. acid. He then lays a few of the rods on the bowl and allows them to dissolve. In the number of rods thus taken to start the process, he is guided by the weather. The warmer the day the smaller amount of tin is put in at the commencement. If it be very hot, even a single rod may prove too much, and under such circumstances it is needful to begin with a small handful of dry feathered tin, adding the rods by degrees when action is once set up. If the operation is correctly managed the rods seem to melt quietly away without effervescence, and after a short time the liquid, which was at first as colourless as water, turns to a rich deep amber colour. All that is then required is to add the remainder of the tin gradually, neither allowing the action to die out for want of material, nor to become too rampant from overfeeding. On no account must bubbles of red gas be allowed to form.
  - If the acid is not of good quality, or if too much or too little tin has been added in the first place, the process takes a different course. The amber colour does not appear, and the liquid, according to circumstances, may remain for some hours without changing colour, and then become turbid ; or if too much has been added it may set up a violent action, giving off copions red fumes, and depositing a precipitate. In all these cases the spirit is spoiled. The addition of about half a pint of nitrate of tin of a former make to the aquafortis at starting is a very good plan to insure success. The finished nitrate of tin is a clear liquid of a deep amber colour. It stands at about 60° Tw. or upwards, and contains about 2}4 oz. of tin to the pound. In cold weather it will remain clear and fit for use for three or fourweeks; but if the thermometer rises to 80° F. it will scarcely keep for a day without becoming turbid. This compound, which is probably a mixture of the nitrate of sesquioxide of tin, is generally used by the York-shire dyers under the name of nitrate of tin, scarlet spirits, or bowl spirits. It is used for cochineal colours upon woollens
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  - or worsteds, and also as a mordant for the cotton warps of mixed stuffs, especially for certain fine clarets and browns. Having ourselves frequently seen it made and used, we naturally feel some surprise at hearing it spoken of as some-thing fabulous. . . . But the name ‘ nitrate of tin ’ is also unfortunately given by some authors and some practical dyers to a totally different préparation, or set of préparations ; we mean to one or more of the spirits made from mixtures of ordinary double aquafortis (nitric acid at about 66° Tw.) with spirits of salts, the latter being largely in excess. Such spirits are colourless, or have at most a faint yellow tinge derived from chloride of iron présent, and are merely perchloride of tin, mixed in some cases with a little protochloride. Such compounds may be fairly named nitro-muriates, but to call them nitrate is decidedly an error.”
  - Because strong nitric acid when it acts upon tin behaves dif-ferently with it than with most other metals,and instead of form-ing a nitrate forms an oxide insoluble in nitric acid, it is pretty generally concluded that there is no nitrate of tin properly so called ; or at any rate, that if there be a nitrate of tin it cannot be produced by directly acting upon tin with nitric acid. There is no doubt of the existence of nitrates of both the stannous and stannic oxides. Proust long ago shewed that diluted nitric acid acted upon tin at the ordinary température without evolving nitrous acid, but with formation of ammonia. Berzelius obtained a stannous nitrate by dissolving the oxide in dilute nitric acid, and the stannic nitrate in the same manner (Gmelin, v., p. 92). Both compounds are very unstable, being decomposed by a slight élévation of température. From the fact of the writer in the Chemical Review stating that the dyers’ aquafortis contained some muriatic acid, it might be objected that this explained the solution of the tin ; but tin dissolves in pure nitric acid. Some experiments were made upon the solution of tin by nitric acid in the editor’s laboratory ; the acid was pure, sp. gr. 1-170 or 340 Tw., the température kept at 60° F. There was always évolution of gas, and this gas being collected and
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- - SILK PRINTING. 165
  - analyzed, it was found that one gramme tin yielded in three experiments 58 c.c., 44 c.c., and 50 c.c. gas, and that 95 per cent. of this gas was nitrous oxide or laughing gas. the remainder appeared to be nitrogen. There was always formation of ammonia in the solution of the tin, one quantitative experiment shewed that the solution of i gramme tin pro-duced O‘027 gramme of ammonia. Both stannous and stannic oxide were always found to be présent in solution ; in one case where one gramme of tin had been dissolved, the solution was immediately tested to détermine the quantity of each oxide présent, and it was found that 0’303 of the tin was présent as stannous oxide, and 0’697 as stannic oxide, that is supposing there was no other oxide of tin ; if there is a sesqui-oxide of tin in the saline state these figures would tend to shew that it probably exists in this solution. The results, however, vary so much by a slight change of température, and the conditions necessary to obtain them uniform so difficult to seize, that the examination was not completed.
  - *
  - 8o -2
  - s
  - S
  - S c
  - Styles derived from Archil.-—Archil is frequently used for the production of violet colours, although we prefer the less fugitive colour obtained from logwood.
  - The archil is used either in the form of an extract or as an archil lake. We shall call the lakes by the name of Parme to distinguish them.
  - Violet No. 1.
  - Archil at 22° Tw...........................
  - Thick gum water ...........................
  - Alum.......................................
  - 1 gallon.
  - % „
  - 272 oz.
  - * Abridged from Koeppelin, “Impression des Etoffes de Soie.” Continued and concluded from p. 65, vol. iv.
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  - i
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  - No. 2 violet may be made by taking 8 measures of gum water to i measure of No. i violet.
  - The parme lake is prepared by dissolving the colouring matter of the archil in a solution of carbonate of soda (25 per cent, of the archil) and adding to it a solution of alum. The alumina précipitâtes in a gelatinous state and takes down with it all the colouring matter of the archil, the liquid which floats above being nothing but sulphate of soda is decanted, and the precipitate collected and drained upon a filter.
  - Parme No. 1, for Outline.
  - Parme lake................................... 2 parts.
  - Gum water.................................... 1 „
  - Weaker colours are made by reducing with gum water.
  - The printed goods are fixed in the ordinary way and washed. The colour at this stage is reddish, it is turned violet by passing it into water rendered alkaline by milk of lime and ammonia. The goods are worked for some minutes in the alkaline fluid, and then washed in running water. If caustic or calcined magnesia be added to the colour before printing this operation is unnecessary, the colours being developed without it ; but the slightest acid vapour which may corne into contact with them, either during or after steaming, renders a subséquent alkaline treatment necessary. As a remedy against the turning of the colours in steaming, the goods may be wrapped in greys which have been passed into water made milky by ground chalk, and then dried up without washing. The chalk remaining in the grey is calcu-lated to neutralize the acid vapours which may arise in the steaming.
  - The improved archil préparation of M. Guinon (French purple) is so much more stable than the ordinary préparation, that all these kind of difficulties have been overcome.
  - With regard to coloured lakes, it may be remarked that any of them may be printed upon silk stuffs and give satis-factory results when it is desired to obtain soft or subdued effects. Since silk cannot be safely moistened so much as woollen before the fixing, it follows that the colouring matters
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- - I oz.
  - 6
  - i oz.
  - bluish in the does not give The No. 2 The fuchsine
  - Thick gum water
  - Water .........
  - Acetic acid....
  - Gum water ............
  - Water.................
  - Alkaline solution above
  - 4 pints.
  - 2 „
  - 7 pints.
  - 2 „
  - 74 „
  - Aniline Pink No. 1.
  - Fuchsine in powder ...............
  - Pure acetic acid .................
  - Boiling water ....................
  - Gum water at 10 1b. per gallon....
  - 172
  - 6
  - L & > g 1 8
  - —
  - 9
  - which exist in the state of précipitation cannot combine so intimately with the fibre ; the shades produced are therefore not so deep or so bright as those obtained with the ordinary colours. If the steam is made too moist the colours run upon the stuffs and they become completely spoiled.
  - Application of Aniline Colours.—At the date when M. Koeppelin’s work was published the aniline colours were in their infancy ; but in a supplément printed some years later he gives the composition of a few aniline colours as applied to silk.
  - Reducing Mixture for Aniline Pink No. 1.
  - Aniline Pink No. 2.
  - Fuchsine in powder ............................
  - Alcohol, pure..................................
  - Boiling water..................................
  - Gum water......................................
  - Solution of carbonate of soda at 2 1b. per
  - gallon................................
  - Reducing Mixture for No. 2 Pink.
  - When acetic acid is used as the solvent for the fuchsine it should be very pure, for if it contains merely traces of essen
  - tial oil the colour loses brightness and becomes fixing. Pure alcohol alone or mixed with acid the best results unless the acid is very pure, colour above has always given the best results.
  - is dissolved in the alcohol, to which the boiling water is
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- - 168
  - R k § © s Re y & X g R R C
  - added to assist the solution, the liquid is filtered and mixed with the gum water. The alkaline solution is then added, which préservés the colour and prevents it becoming dull if it has to be kept some time before it is all used up.
  - Aniline Blues and Blue Violets.—These colours which are obtained from the more or less complété décomposition of fuchsine by various reducing agents, are sold either as powders or in small lumps of a résinons appearance of a violet colour ; they are soluble in alcohol or wood-naphtha, insoluble in cold water, and very little soluble in boiling water. The alcoholic solution added to water strongly colours it without précipitation ; silks may be dyed in such a solution with success and of very fine shades. The dyed colours resist the action of strong acids, but are sensitive to light, which soon causes them to fade.
  - These colours are, however, préférable to similar shades obtained from archil or Prussian blue, both on the score of
  - brilliancy and stability.
  - Purple No. 1.
  - Aniline blue violet............................... i oz.
  - Alcohol ..........................................25 oz.
  - Water ... ....................................... 12 7 oz.
  - Gum water.........................................50 oz.
  - Blue No. 1.
  - Aniline blue ..................................... 1 oz.
  - Alcohol ..........................................25 oz.
  - Water............................................ 1272 oz.
  - Gum Water ........................................ 272 pints.
  - Sulphuric acid, i of acid to 16 water .......... 272 oz.
  - Reducing Mixture for both Colours.
  - Thick gum water ...................................8 pints.
  - Water..............................................4 pints.
  - Sulphuric acid, i of acid to 16 water .......... 372 oz.
  - For printing, the colours are dissolved in the alcohol which, is kept hot in a double-cased steam pan, the aniline is added by small portions, and well stirred and crushed until all has been dissolved, then the water is added boiling, the liquor filtered through sieving silk and the gum water added.
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- - 3 83 k 8 g s. N h P1 & N A, s
  - 169
  - When redder shades of purple are required, the above purple can be mixed with the old aniline mauve, with which it associâtes very well and yields shades of great purity. The peuple above, when considerably reduced, gives fine shades of grey of a spécial tint, which cannot be obtained from any other colouring matters. The same purple in mixture with archil, extract of indigo, and other extracts, gives all the fancy shades which can be desired. The blue colour should not be prepared long before it is to be used, for by keeping it has a tendency to become grey, losing its brightness. Such colour can be somewhat improved by adding a little more acid, or can be used up by mixing with fresh colour,
  - ----------------
  - 4. Note upon the Collection of Designs at Peel Park, Salford.
  - SEVERAL years ago the Editor, through the kindness of the obliging Curator of the Peel Park Muséum, Mr. J. Plant, had an opportunity of leisurely inspecting the large collection of designs of printed calico which is possessed by that institution. This collection as is well known, was made for the express purpose of illustrating the progress of design from the year 1767, by a sélection made from the pattern books of various houses. It was not, however, in relation to that department of calico printing that the following notes were made, but rather with a view of putting down the dates at which certain styles occurred in the collection. There was no opportunity of testing chemically whether the conjectures made with regard to particular colours was correct or not, and it is possible that in some cases good imitations may have misled the observer. The oldest specimen of calico printing in the muséum is in a separate case, to which access was not obtained upon this visit, it was only seen through glass, it is a madder red, single colour, evidently printed from fiat plate, and bears the date of 1751, Old Ford Works, London; the design is described as
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- - I/o THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - being 6 feet 10 inches long, by 3 feet 2 inches wide, upon linen cloth; the subject is pastoral, and the impression produces all the details of an excellent engraving in the best possible way, the colour is remarkably good for a print of such early date. The large roll of specimens commences with the year 1767, but for this year and 1768 the designs are on paper only, mounted upon cloth, after that date they are on various fabrics.
  - 1769.—Prevalence of indigo styles. Chintz and small furnitures in madder colours, the reds and pinks good, but the purples poor.
  - 1770.—Covers or grounds of indigo blue, which are very similar to those produced by the precipitated or fast blue. Madder purples are of a bad reddish shade.
  - 1788.— Covers over designs became general. There are dark ground prints of doubtful origin ; seem fast colours as if an indigo bottom with dyed colour on top.
  - 1793.—Continued prevalence of light indigo blue covers over madder work ; the impression is strong that this blue is from the precipitated blue, although there is no authority for shewing that it was known at this date, it can only be this or the orpiment blue, which latter seems unlikely. Some of the madder purples are good.
  - 1801.—Some good topical indigo blue printing, evidently the pencil blue or orpiment colour.
  - 1810.—Fairly good samples of the neutral or lapis style, with blue, red, black, green and yellow colours ; also what appear to be Turkey reds, with blue, yellow and green discharge upon or printed upon discharge white. Other blues in combination with various colours are evidently indigo blue pencilled in.
  - 1814.—There is a large handkerchief shawl, with capital madder reds and pinks. Indigo blue and green in several styles.
  - 1817.—A specimen which seems to be indigo blue, with chrome orange and yellow ; and others which have the appearance of Prussian blue, with white, yellow and green discharge upon Turkey red. Pad purples of fair quality commence this year,
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- - E & 0 g © 9
  - 5
  - 1818.—First observed iron buffs.
  - 1821 .—A good many China blues, and some blues suspected to be Prussian blue.
  - 1824 .—First rainbowing effects observed.
  - 1827 .—Chrome oranges and yellow common. Heavy purple pad prints first occur.
  - 1829 and 1830.—First observed machine printed steam colours. Good dark blues and chocolatés. Resist red under madder purples first seen. Steam greens and blues, numerous examples.
  - 1836 .—Plate madder pinks appear common, previous to this date, very few observed.
  - 1847 .—Samples of dyed work with catechu brown appear, none were observed previous to this date.
  - 1850 .—A notable change of styles observed ; glaring steam combinations disappear and much improved styles in madder and garancine are found.
  - The collection does not extend to any later date ; these notes do not prétend to fix the date of the introduction of any of the styles noted, but simply of their existence in this collection.
  - 5. Indigo T es ting by HydrosnlpJdte of Soda.
  - Among the processes of testing the value of indigo given in a recent supplément to this Journal no mention was made of the method devised by M. A. Muller in June, 1873, an account of which may be found in the Bulletin of the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, vol. xliv., p. 32. It seems a difficult and almost impracticable process to be accurately carried out by any but chemists accustomed to accurate manipulation and provided with all the resources of a good laboratory. It received some praise at the time of its introduction, and we think it well to give a translation of the paper and the report made upon it. They are in substance as follows ;—
  - M
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- - -6
  - THE TEXTILE CO LO U RI ST.
  - 'y
  - sot.
  - " Before describing the apparatus used for the testing, I will give the method of preparing the hydrosulphite.
  - In a wide-mouthed bottle holding about 150 c.c., there is placed cuttings of sheet zinc rolled upon themselves as many as can be put in ; the bottle is then filled up with a concentrated solution of bisulphite of soda. In three-quarters of an hour the action is complété ; the liquid contents of the bottle are then poured into a phial and shaken up with 5° or 60 grammes of freshly slaked lime, the whole is diluted to the volume of 5 or 6 litres and filtered. This forms the test liquor.
  - As hydrosulphite of soda absorbs oxygen from the air with rapidity, it is necessary to conduct the testing in an inert atmosphère (carbonic acid or hydrogen). To accomplish this a Mohr’s burette with a long tube is used ; in the tube a cork is fixed fitting into the central tubulure of a three-necked bottle which holds about 200 c.c. ; the other two necks are fitted up with tubes ; one, going to the bottom of the bottle, is for conducting the gas used ; the other tube opening from the top leads into a vessel of water, so that the gas passing through may bubble up through it. The inert or non-oxidi-zing gas employed is supplied by an apparatus in continuai action, so that the current can be regulated at will. The stock bottle of hydrosulphite contains about 2 litres. It should be well closed with an india-rubber cork with two holes, one of which holds a tube terminating just inside the stopper, communicating with a supply of inert gas, which in this case may be ordinary illuminating gas ; the other holds a tube extending to the bottom of the bottle and connected with an india-rubber tube. When not in use these tubes are closed. To fill the burette its beak is connected with the india rubber tube, and the liquid sucked in by another tube fixed by help of a cork in the upper part of the burette.
  - Testing the Hydrosulphite.—An ammoniacal solution of sul-phate of copper is decolourized by the hydrosulphite ; it forms the suboxide of copper which is held in solution by the ammonia. Under the same conditions indigotine blue is transformed into indigo white. Now I have found that to decolourize a molécule of sulphate of copper it requires
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- - 173
  - i 8 s s 8 8
  - exactly the same volume of hydrosulphite as to decolourize a molécule of pure indigotine. These reactions are well defined and prove that the process employed is exact.”
  - Omitting the formula we proceed :—
  - " By calculating the molecular weight of these substances, we find that i gramme of pure indigotine is decolourized by the same volume of hydrosulphite as 1'904 grammes of pure crystallized sulphate of copper. To préparé a standard solution, we therefore take 1'904 grammes pure crystallized sulphate of copper which is dissolved in water, and after adding an excess of ammonia the volume is made up to i litre. For testing the hydrosulphite, 50 c.c. of this liquid is taken and placed in the three-necked flask, and after passing gas through it rapidly for about thifty seconds the current is slackened and the hydrosulphite is run in until complété decolouration takes place.
  - Testing of the Indigotine.—Fifty c.c. of a sulphuric solution of indigo containing i gramme of indigo per litre are taken and boiled in a small flask to expel the contained air, and then introduced into the three-necked bottle, gas is passed through rapidly for thirty seconds, then more slowly, and the hydrosulphite run in until the colour becomes greenish-yellow, or a yellow more or less clear, according to the quality of indigo employed. In the case of low class indigo, the solution must be diluted with its own bulk of water, in order that the conclusion of the reaction may be clearly discerned.
  - Supposing that in a given case we have employed 14'3 c.c. to completely decolourize the 50 c.c. of solution of indigotine, knowing that to decolourize the same volume of the copper solution it requires 20'6 c.c. ; the amount of indigotine in the sample can be obtained by the proportion—
  - 20'6 : 100 : : 14'3 :x=69*4.
  - The following indigoes were tested by this process :—
  - Indigotine per cent.
  - Bengal.....................................:... 69-4
  - Guatemala ..................................... 60-3
  - Kurpah ......................................... 516
  - Indigotine ..................................... ioo'o
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- - 174
  - N s S X N K B © S N © S 3 t N
  - Dr. Gopplesroder was requested to make a report upon the preceeding paper of M. Muller. He repeated the process in conjunction with M. Leonard and M. Trechsel, and he States as follows:—We followed scrupulously all the directions given by the author, both for the préparation of the hydro-sulphite and the method of estimating its strength by means of the ammonical sulphate of copper and indigotine ; the prepared indigotine by Fritsches’ method with alcohol and glucose. We were careful to draw off only half the solution of indigo after it had been at rest for twenty-four hours. The indigotine obtained was washed with boiling water, then with a mixture of alcohol and water, and lastly, with boiling alcohol alone. The product was dried at 100° C., and we employed it to préparé the solution of sulphindigotic acid, representing i gramme of indigotine per litre. In testing this solution with the hydrosulphite of sodium we obtained figures agreeing very well ; but it was not the same with the solution of ammonical sulphate of copper which M. Muller recommended for fixing the value of the hydrosulphite, we could not get constant results from it ; this is owing to the termination of the reaction not being so sharply defined as with the indigotine. As an illustration, I give the figures obtained by M. Leonard: 20 c.c. of the standard solution of sulphate of copper required 13‘5,—133,—13‘7,—138 c.c., a mean of 13'6 c.c. of the solution of hydrosulphite of soda, while 20 c.c. of the solution of indigotine required 13-5 c.c. of the same solution of hydrosulphite in a sériés of six trials. The extreme différence is 0'5 c.c., which amounts to nearly 4 per cent.
  - In a séries of trials by M. Trechsel the différences were still greatei, being 2'3 c.c., or 15 percent., is seen by the following amounts of the hydrosulphite required for 20 c.c. of the copper solution, 15 —15'5 — 15′9 —14’3—146 — 16′6 —14’4— 15′9 ; the mean being 15*2. In présence of this difficulty we endeavoured to replace the ammoniacal sulphate of copper by permanganate of potash, and obtained very good results. The solution contained 1′576 grammes permanganate per
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- - I v k 6 © S §
  - litre, and in nine experiments made by M. Leonard and M. Trechsel the quantity of hydrosulphite required by 20 c.c. were respectively 9*2 — 9*2 — 9‘I—9‘i — 9*2—9’1—9-1—9-1 and 9 c.c. ; 20 c.c. of the indigotine solution required in four trials 6’0—6'i—6'1—6'2. From the greater concordance of these results, we believe that the permanganate will advantageously replace the ammoniacal solution of sulphate .of copper.
  - M. Trechsel and myself are studying the relations which exist between permanganate, indigotine, and the solution of substance or substances called hydrosüulphite. We shall détermine exactly the équivalence between indigotine and permanganate of potash.
  - For the présent we must be satisfied by summing up the resuit of the experiments as shewing that M. Muller’s method of testing indigotine is the clearest and most accurate of all those wè have had occasion to try, and which are described in spécial treatises. We must, however, state that the method of determining the strength of the hydrosulphite solution is not satisfactory ; we suggest the use of permanganate, but probably better than that may be found. In the meanwhile we should advise the testing of samples of commercial indigo by the hydrosulphite, by comparing them with a standard or with a solution of pure indigotine. It remains to be seen whether the foreign matters which accompany indigotine in indigo do not act in some way to confuse the results. We cannot, of course, give an opinion upon this subject; it is only by comparing the results obtained by an analysis with those observed in practice on the large scale, in actual dyeing and printing, that we shall be enabled to know what degree of approximation can be attained by the use of the hydrosulphite ; that is to say, that the direct method employed in practice, and which is founded upon the results obtained by actual dyeing will always be the practical test.
  - This process, it will be seen, is only a method of ascer-taining how much hydrosulphite is required to decolourize by deoxidation a solution of sulphindigotic acid ; the older pro-
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- - 176 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - cesses of testing the same solution act by destroying the colour by oxidation; the hydrosulphite method appears to have all the weaknesses of the old processes and some others spécial to itself arising from the remarkable instability of the testing liquid. We are not aware that M. Goppelsroeder has published any results of his experiments to shew the équivalence between indigotine and manganèse in permanganate; if he is content to obtain his indigotine by Fritsche’s process these results will be of no value, because that process cannot yield pure indigotine as far as our own expérience goes. If sublimed crystallized indigotine be used, and that alone is reliable, we believe it will be found that there is no correspond ence between manganèse and chromium and the présent admitted formula of indigotine. The amount of oxygen in chromâtes and permanganates required to destroy the colour of sulphindigotic acid should, according to theory, be one molécule for a molécule of indigotine, but actually a less quantity suffices, which suggests that either we have not got the correct formula for indigotine, or we do not know the compounds which it forms when decomposed by oxidizing agents.
  - S. s s S, 9, 8. s s » s § S
  - S S
  - I9 3 E
  - 93 s E, S § os
  - *
  - Another Black Mordant. — Acetate of iron at 5° Tw., thickened with British gum at the rate of 3 72 1b. per gallon, dissolved by heating, cool and add about 32 part of nitrate of iron, at 1100 Tw.
  - Chocolaté Mordants.—These are mixtures of acetate of alumina and acetate of iron, in various proportions, according to the shade required ; some illustrations may be given.
  - Chocolaté for Blotch.—Equal measures of the acetate of alumina, No. 2,—which follows—at 8° Tw., and iron liquor at 70 Tw., thickened with British gum.
  - * from vol. iii., p. 287.
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- - DE VINANT ON DYEING SILK. 177
  - Light Chocolaté.—One measure of the black mordant above, at 8° Tw., and 2 measures of acetate of alumina No. 2, with addition af about i 72 oz. salammoniac per gallon of colour.
  - A cetateof Alumina, No. 2.—Twenty gallons of boilingwater, 50 lb. alum, dissolve and add 5 lb. carbonate of soda, then add 38 lb. acetate of lead and 72 gallon of pure acetic acid at 100 Tw., leave three days to settle and use the clear, which should stand at 14° Tw. The dunging or cleansing is directed to be done either with silicate of soda alone, or in mixture with cow dung and bran, and in some cases chalk.
  - The dyeing, as directed by our author, is somewhat peculiar ; first, for say two hundred handkerchiefs, 15 lb. of bran are boiled in a small quantity of water, and the décoction added to the water which is to be used for the dyeing ; the dyeing material is a mixture of garancine and sumac, say 1272 lb. garancine and 6 lb. sumac, ox blood about 172 gallon is added and the whole well stirred ; then is added a solution of 72 lb. soap in a quantity of boiling water ; after well stirring again the dye liquor is ready ; the pièces are entered and worked at a very gentle heat, for fifteen or twenty minutes, and when it is seen the colour is taking evenly, the température is increased so as to arrive at the boil in about an hour ; the pièces are then washed. The clearing is effected in boiling bran water and if the whites require it, the pièces are lightly soaped in cool soap solution, and afterwards passed in cold solution of chloride of lime. A peculiarity of this dyeing is that after the chloride of lime process, the goods are passed in weak muriatic acid and washed off.
  - Dyeing of Crimsons on Printed Silk.—For one hundred handkerchiefs, boil 12 lb. of bran in some water, and add it to the dyebeck, wince the silk in the bran water cold two or three times, lift, and add 2}4 lb. cochineal in powder which has been previously boiled for twenty minutes with a little water and 6 oz. cream of tartar, then add i oz. powdered gall nuts and 74 lb. garancine. Let the pièces run fifteen or twenty minutes in the cold and when the colour is seen to be even, heat up to boiling in forty-five minutes, and
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- - 178
  - N k § © N © • R
  - S & X g R x —
  - keep at the boil for four or five minutes. Clear with bran and water, but nothing else.
  - Upon the Printing of Wool and Muslin-^e-Laine.—To put the pièces into proper condition after printing, the simplest method is to hang them in a room through which a current of warm air passes. A layer of sand, from 7 to 8 inches deep, is on the floor, which is kept moistened by degging, so as to have a constant degree of humidity in the air.
  - The pièces should hang in such a place twenty-four hours before steaming ; they thus acquire a degree of moistness which is necessary for them in the steaming. The styles for madder dyeing are afterwards hung up in another room to dry for twenty-four hours.
  - Steaming.—The steaming box has a double bottom, the false bottom being full of small holes. On the real bottom a considérable depth of water is always kept, in order to secure moistness in the steam.
  - Lastings are steamed twice, one hour each time.
  - Druggets are steamed the same.
  - Mérinos are steamed once for an hour and a quarter.
  - Licht woollens and delaines are steamed once for an hour.
  - The lake colours are steamed as moist as possible for fifty or sixty minutes.
  - We extract some of the receipts given for colours upon woollens and delaines. The préparation, which is said to be the best adapted for printing, is made as follows :—
  - 7 1b. oxymuriate of tin.
  - 30 1b. commercial caustic soda, at 35° Tw.
  - Mix together. Separately dissolve
  - 11 1b. oxalic acid in i gallon boiling water.
  - Mix the two solutions together, add water to reduce the strength to 2° Tw. when cold. Let the goods steep twelve hours in the liquor, or pad them without pressure at a strength of 8° Tw.; leave on the rolls twelve hours; wash and dry.
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- - 1 I < N © E > S E
  - I S E9 A
  - 179
  - Dark Chocolaté. Block.
  - 8 1b. redwood extract, at 14° Tw.
  - 3 1b. logwood liquor, at 14° Tw.
  - 1 1b. bark liquor, at 30° Tw.
  - 3 1b. archil, at 18° Tw., mixed with
  - 3 1b. warm water ; thicken with
  - 372 1b. pipeclay.
  - 6}4 1b. dextrine, and add
  - 134 1b. alum,
  - 72 1b. salammoniac, and when cold 10 oz. crystals of nitrate of copper, 3 oz. spirits of turpentine.
  - CJiocolate No. 3.—Wool : 1}4 gallons peachwood liquor at 7° Tw.—5 pints logwood liquor at 7° Tw.—5721b. gum—10 oz. alum—5 oz. salammoniac. Dissolve, and when cold add— 7 1b. nitrate of copper—2 oz. turpentine.
  - Chocolaté for Roller No. 4.—Wool or silk : 27 gallons strong archil—272 quarts nitrate of alumina—1 1b. common extract of indigo. When the effervescence has ceased, add 9 1b. gum and dissolve at a gentle heat. Separately préparé the follow-ing mixture :—374 1b. starch—1 1b. gum substitute—I}4 gallons peachwood liquor at 14° Tw.—5 pints berry liquor at 7° Tw.—1 quart logwood at 14° Tw.—3 quarts acétate of alumina at 14° Tw., boil. Mix the two colours and heat them together under boiling point for fifteen minutes, put into a vessel and add 672 oz. salammoniac and 61 oz. alum, when dissolved add 172 1b. turpentine and 72 1b. olive oil, and lastly, when quite cold, i 1b. nitrate of copper.
  - Red No. 1, for Combinations.— 172 gallon cochineal liquor at 7° Tw.— 1 pint sapanwood at 14° Tw.— 72 pint berry liquor at 14° Tw.— 3}4 1b. starch—74 1b. oxalic acid—}4 1b. binoxalate of potash—4 oz. turpentine—4 oz. oil ; boil, and when cold add 8 oz. bichloride of tin at 120° and 8 oz. oxymuriate of tin.
  - A solution of turmeric in alcohol or in acetic acid, can be advantageously used as a yellow part in reds, taking 3 1b. of either acetic acid or alcohol for i 1b. of turmeric, and leaving them together for two or three days, then straining.
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- - 180 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - Red No. 2, for Wool or Delaine.—I gallon water—1 quart acetic acid at 8° Tw.—4 oz. binoxalate of potash—3 oz. of tin crystals—2}4 1b. of cochineal. Boil the cochineal with the water and salts for one and a quarter hour and strain, boil the cochineal again with water, mix the liquors and boil down to 7 pints, then thicken with 2}4 1b. starch, add 2 1b. décoction of madder and 2oz. olive oil, in which dissolve i %oz. white wax.
  - The above are specimens of the receipts given by De Vinant, in which the quantifies are put into the best English équivalents possible. It is quite unnecessary to continue giving further examples of these colours, for the experienced colour mixer will see at once that they are very complicated, laborious, and by no means very practical ; they seem to belong to a rather early epoch of wool and delaine printing, and have been replaced by simpler préparations.
  - Steam Colours upon Cotton.—In the opening paragraphs of this section of his work, De Vinant States that forty years ago steam colours were nearly unknown in Rouen, the printers then only worked blue and yellow, which were mixed to produce green. He relates that in 1873, when he was quite young, he worked in the laboratory of the Gobelin’s under Chevreul, where he made experiments upon steam colours for cottons, which he afterwards successfully carried out on the large scale with his father.
  - They prepared their jacconets with a double mordant of tin and alumina, and we have the extraordinary statement that their reds had for basis a mordant of bichloride of mercury, or corrosive sublimate.
  - in the period 1837—1845, he states that Paris had the monopoly of printing jacconets and batistes in madder colours ; it was at this time that Broquetté, a printer in Paris, improved the process of printing upon wool, and invented the method of printing with various lakes, and about the same time applied albumen as a vehicle for some colours ; the Mulhouse printers are said to have infringed or employed Broquette’s patents, and the inventor having proceeded against them before the legal tribunals, received damages or recompense to the extent of 60,000 to 80,000 francs, after
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- - DE VINA NT ON STE AM COLOURS. 181 which they were allowed to continue to use his methods. It is only, he continues, since this time that Mulhouse acquired the réputation which it now so well deserves.* . With regard to Broquette’s process of animalising cotton fabrics so as to receive colours like wool, we find the following receipt for the préparation of the cloth :—
  - 3 1b. casein or lactarine, 18 1b. warm water ; let steep together for several hours and add 1}4 1b. strong ammonia ; twelve hours after the ammonia, add 272 gallons water and 3 1b. nitric acid at 10° Tw. ; this causes a séparation of the caseine which is washed with water, drained, and re-dissolved in ammonia and mixed with 7 1b. olive oil, the whole well mixed up. The pièces are padded in this mixture and dried, then steamed. Afterwards, without washing, the goods were prepared with stannate of soda and sulphuric acid in the usual way for steam colours.
  - This process of Broquette’s we may add, for De Vinant says no more about it, was for a time thought to be a most valuable discovery, very beautiful results were obtained by it as far as colours go, but it was soon given up for two reasons, first, it was very expensive, costing 20 or 30 francs to préparé 100 metres of cloth ; and secondly, it gave a stiffness and harshness to the cloth which was very objectionable. About 1850, the editor saw some work donc upon delaines and cotton by Thomsons’, of Clitheroe, by this process, and some by Koechlin’s of Mulhouse, which were particularly rich, and had a softness of effect much resembling fine woollen goods in appearance, but they had a bad touch ; the oil was used to soften the harshness given by the caseine, but it was only partially successful in accomplishing it, and in conséquence the goods were not suitable for garments.
  - We select some of the steam colours as given by De Vinant for calico.
  - Black No. 1.— 1)4 gallon vinegar or acetic acid at 4° Tw.—• I gallon logwood liquor at 24° Tw.—72 pint bark liquor at 14° Tw.— 74 gallon iron liquor at 220 Tw.— 74 gallon red
  - * P. 471.
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  - liquor at 14° Tw.—i 1b. oil—372 1b. starch—i 1b. gum substitute.
  - Black No. 2.— I gallon acetate of alumina at 14° Tw.—172 gallons iron liquor at 13° Tw.—I gallon acetic acid—3% gallons logwood liquor at 8° Tw.—9 1b. starch—4 1b. gum substitute ; boil, and when cool add to each gallon of colour 74 pint nitrate of iron.
  - Black No. 4.—This black is called English black, from the firm of Mr. Ed. Botter, Manchester.— 1 gallon logwood liquor at 8° Tw.— 72 pint caustic soda at 70° Tw.— 1}4 1b. starch— 72 oz. red prussiate ; boil, and when cool strain.
  - Chromium Black.—I gallon logwood for purpleat 14° Tw.— 2 1b. starch—2 1b. British gum ; mix separately—8 1b. acetate of chromium below and 13 oz. carbonate of soda, stir until the effervesence is over, mix with the preceding, then add 1}4 gallon acetic acid strong, and 2 quarts acetic acid, boil and strain.
  - Acetate of Chromium for above Black.—75 1b. bichromate— 100 lb. strong sulphuric acid—572 gallons water, boiling; add gradually 25 1b. white starch, when the action is over and the liquid cold ; add 285 lb. of acetate of lead, stir well and use the clear.
  - It is added that these blacks need not be steamed, a simple passage in bichromate with addition of carbonate of soda to preserve the whites, suffices to render the colour adhérent to cotton goods. The bath may be made up of 100 gallons water—6 1b. bichromate of potash, and 3 lb. carbonate of soda.
  - Chocolaté No. 5.—1 gallon redwood liquor, at 5° Tw.— 72 gallon logwood liquor, at 5° Tw.—1}4 1b. starch—1 1b. gum substitute—10 oz. alum—5 oz. salammoniac. Boil, and when cold add 8 oz. nitrate of copper.
  - Chocolaté No. ij, called English.—334 gallons sapan liquor, at 20° Tw.—2 gallons logwood liquor at 14° Tw.— 134 gallons berry liquor at n°Tw.—134 gallons nitrate of alumina, at ii° Tw.—24 1b. starch—1 quart oil—1}4 1b. chlorate of potash. Boil, and when cold add 272 1b. prussiate of potash.
  - Nitrate of Alumina for the above.—7 pints water—3 lb. alum—3 lb. nitrate of lead.
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- - DE VINANT ON STE AM COLOURS. 183
  - Nùro-sulphate of Alumina.—4 gallons water—20 1b. nitrate of lead—15 1b. sulphate of alumina.
  - Chromium Chocolaté.—10 gallons Limaextract, at 30°Tw.— 3 gallons Cuba extract, at 30° Tw.—add 10 1b. crystals of soda to 10 gallons of acetate of chromium, and when the effervesence is over mix all with 19 gallons water—8 gallons aeetic acid—22 1b. white starch—8 1b. gum substitute, and boil.
  - Dark Catechu.— I gallon catechu liquor at 14° Tw.— 4% 1b. gum substitute—4 oz. salammoniac—when cold add 4 oz. nitrate of copper.
  - Dark Green, No. 49.—First part : 272 gallons berry liquor, at 7° Tw.—8 1b. starch—2 1b. alum—5 pints acetate of alumina at 14° Tw. ; boil. Second part: 1}4 gallon berry liquor, at 7° Tw.—12}2 1b. yellow prussiate—3 quarts Lima and redwood at 14° Tw. ; dissolve warm and add to the first part. Third part : 3 quarts of acetic acid—72 1b. oxalic acid —2 1b. bichloride of tin at 120° Tw.—6 1b. extract of indigo ; mix, and add to the previous when cold.
  - Dark Green No. 53.—First part : I gallon berry liquor, at 10° Tw.—1 gallon bark liquor, at 14°Tw.— 72 gallon logwood liquor, at 7° Tw.— 72 gallon water—4 1b. starch ; boil, and while hot add 272 1b. alum ; when coder add 5 1b. prussiate of potash; when cold, i gallon prussiate of tin. Second part; 72 1b. starch—72 gallon water; boil, and add 12 oz. oxalic acid and 12 oz. tartaric acid ; mix the two parts together.
  - Dark Bhie.—2 gallons water—372 1b. starch ; boil, and add 672 1b. prussiate of potash—6}4 1b. tartaric acid ; when cooler add 6 oz. oxalic acid, and when cold add 872 1b. prussiate of tin.
  - White Resist, for Steam Colours.—I gallon boiling water —24 1b. gum ; dissolve. 1}4 1b. resin soap—10 oz. carbonate of soda—i gallon boiling water ; dissolve. 20 1b. animal black, pure and fine—20 1b. carbonate of zinc—10 1b. chalk— 3 gallons water. Mix the three solutions together.
  - White to Print upon Colours.—Albumen water, with gum water, and 4 1b. to 5 1b. of zinc white per gallon, with or with-out addition of a small quantity of ultramarine.
  - M. De Vinant States that the following colours were com-
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  - municated to him by M. Mathias Paraf-Javal, of Thann, near Mulhouse. The préparation for the colours consisted in padding in strong stannate of soda, and afterwards passing in sulphuric acid.
  - Red, for Block or Roller.—3 quarts cochineal liquor, at 20° Tw.—pint bark liquor, at 30° Tw.—1 1b. starch ; boil, and add immediately 6 oz. binoxalate of potash, and when cold 12 oz. acetate of tin below.
  - Acetate of Tin.—472 1b. tin crystals—2}4 1b. bichloride of tin, at 1100—1 1b. 2 oz. acetate of lead, and i quart water; stir well, and use the clear.
  - Pink, to go with Red.—Standard : 72 gallon cochineal liquor, at f Tw.—I pint acetate of alumina, at 22° Tw.— 6 oz. tartaric acid, at 300 Tw.—272 1b. gum. For light pinks reduce this with 3 or 4 measures of gum water.
  - Green.—34 1b. starch—72 gallon water ; boil, and add 4 1b. yellow prussiate—74 1b. red prussiate—372 1b. tin ; mix well, and add 74 1b. chrome alum and 2 oz. acetic acid.
  - The above green has some resemblance in its composition to Havraneck’s green. It is directed to be reduced with starch paste for light shades.
  - Finishing of Steam Colours.—According to Vinant, steam colours on calico have no starch in the finishing, being simply dried up after washing ; however, he finds that the best stiffening or finishing material is potato starch, at i 1b. per gallon of water, with about i ounce of very white beef suet. Pass through the starching mangle hot, dry, and if required, calender. For bluing a small quantity of what is called English blue may be used.
  - Coloured Finish for Madder Foulards.—This is to give a yellowish tone to the ground. Boil 272 1b. quercitron bar'k for half-an-hour with 10 gallons water, filter, and add 272 gallons farina paste, at 176 1b. per gallon, and 74 gallon acetate of alumina.
  - The next section of M. De Vinant’s work treats of spirit colours (couleurs d'application), or that class of colours which resemble steam colours in composition, but are not steamed.
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- - DE VINANT ON DISCHARGE COLOURS. 185
  - They form the lowest, because the loosest, class of colours employed in calico printing, and should never be employed for goods which are likely to require washing, they are only suitable for linings and similar articles. Since the extensive use of aniline colours in printing it has been found that many of these simply thickened with starch or gum answer the purpose of spirit colours ; they are easy to print, regular in shade, and are not likely to tender the cloth, as many spirit colours may do unless carefully managed. The receipts for the old spirit colours in De Vinant do not présent any spécial points of interest, and we pass them over to corne to the next section, from which we extract some receipts for discharges— most of these will be new to colour mixers who have learned their business within the last dozen years, but familiar to the older ones. They may be looked upon as obsolète, but expérience has shewn that some of those styles, thought to be for ever buried, corne up again at times with some new face upon them and have a successful run. We shall therefore extract several of these discharges ; it will be observed that some are for block.
  - White Discharge upon Manganèse Bronze.—2 gallons water —5 1b. pipeclay—272 1b. gum. Dissolve warm, and when cold add 4 to 6 1b. liquid muriate of tin.
  - Yellow Discharge on same.—2 gallons water—2 to 212 1b. chromate of lead—27 1b. starch. Boil, and when cooled add 1 72 to 134 1b. crystals of tin.
  - Red Discharge on same.—2 gallons peachwood liquor at 8° Tw.— 1}4 1b. alum—772 1b. gum. While warm add i 1b. tartaric acid—i 1b. oxalic acid—i 1b. crystals of tin.
  - Blue Discharge on same.—Add Prussian blue in paste to the white discharge in quantity necessary for the shade of blue required.
  - Green Discharge on same.—Mix equal proportions of the yellow and the blue discharge.
  - Chromate of Lead for Yellow Discharge.—5 1b. yellow chromate—2 gallons hot water—5 1b. acetate of lead—2 gallons hot water. Dissolve separately, mix together, and collect the precipitate,
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  - White Discharge upon Chrome Orange.—i gallon water— 372 1b. tartaric acid—372 1b. oxalic acid—10 1b. pipeclay. Afterwards add i gallon thick gum water, and 5 1b. crystals of tin. It may be further thickened with gum substitute.
  - Red Discharge on Chrome Orange.—2 gallons peachwood liquor at 8° Tw.— 1}4 1b. oxymuriate of tin, thicken with gum, and add 5 oz. tin crystals and i 74 1b. nitromuriate of tin.
  - Blue Discharge on Chrome Orange.—2 gallons hot water— 2 1b. Prussian blue paste dissolved in muriatic acid—10 oz. tartaric acid—10 oz. oxalic acid—1}4 1b. tin crystals—2 1b. starch ; when cold add 1 74 1b. muriate of tin, or more if the colour does not discharge well.
  - Yellozv Discharge on Chrome Orange.— I gallon water—1 1b. starch ; boil, and add 178 1b. nitric acid—8 oz. acetate of lead mixed.
  - AnotJier Yellow Discharge.—This is simply nitrate of copper thickened; nitrate of alumina or other acid salts of this nature may also be used.
  - Lilac Discharge on Chrome Orange.— I gallon logwood liquor at 4° Tw.—dissolve in it i 1b. alum, thicken with starch, and when cold add 7 1b. oxymuriate of tin and 72 1b. nitromuriate of tin.
  - Purple Discharge on Madder Chocolaté.—This kind of madder chocolaté is obtained by first dyeing a purple in the usual way, and then padding over with iron buff, which changes it into a brown or chocolaté. To obtain purple objects on the chocolaté ground the buff is discharged by the following composition:—i gallon boiling water—1}4 1b. tartaric acid—i 1b. oxalic acid—472 1b. gum substitute.
  - Pink Discharge on Madder Chocolaté.—To about i gallon gum substitute add 1}4 1b. tin crystals and 7 oz. sulphuric acid ; to be printed upon the chocolaté obtained as above ; twenty-four hours after printing to be washed of in warm chalk and water, and then passed in alkali or soaped.
  - Orange Discharge upon Madder Purple.—This is rather a dark buff discharge than an orange. It is made by pre-cipitating nitrate of iron with carbonate of soda, collecting the oxide of iron and dissolving it in a mixture of equal parts of
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- - UPON THE PR USSIA TES O F ANILINE. 18 7 sulphuric and muriatic acid at 7° Tw. to saturation—2 gallons of this sulphomuriate of iron—74 gallon lime juice at 36° Tw.— 74 1b. sulphate (? bisulphate) of potash, thickened with gum. This mixture printed on madder purple, aged in a warm room for forty-eight hours, and then passed into rather strong bleaching powder solution to discharge the purple and fix the buff.
  - [To be continuedl\
  - Methyl Green on Woollen Yam.—This is dyed by first mordanting in a mixture of hyposulphide of soda or hydro-chloric acid, so as to induce a deposit of sulphur in the wool ; about i 1b. of hyposulphide and half a pound of acid to 3 1b. yarn. After the mordanting wash and dye in the solution near the boiling point. To obtain yellower shades picric acid is added.
  - ------------
  - 7. Note upon the Prussiates of Aniline P
  - BY M. WEHRLIN.
  - Towards the end of 1863 M. H. Cordillot discovered an aniline black made by means of prussiate of ammonia (ferricyanide), which could be fixed by steaming. It was the first black which had been obtained without the use of salts of copper. After being given up for a length of time it came into use again when the extract style was introduced, which required a good black fixing by steam.
  - Up to the présent time (1874), the principal blacks. em-ployed were by means of yellow or red prussiate of potash, or the corresponding salts of ammonia. M. Camille Koechlin has communicated to me the receipt of a very fine black obtained by the direct action of ferricyanic acid upon aniline; unfortunately, this black does not keep good beyond a few hours, and is difficult to use. In the various blacks I am
  - * Bull. de la Soc. Ind. de Mulhouse, xliv., p. 386.
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  - about to speak of, whatever sait may be employed it always produces either the ferro- or the ferricyanide of aniline.
  - I have endeavoured to isolate these two salts, and have succeeded in obtaining them in a pure crystallized state.
  - Ferrocyanhydrate of Aniline.—This corresponds to the yellow prussiate, and is made by acting upon aniline with ferrocyanic acid. The great difficulty is to obtain the acid in a sufficiently concentrated state to dissolve enough aniline. The simplest process of preparing the acid is that proposed by M. Kuhlmann, of Lille, which consists in decomposing the ferrocyanide of barium by sulphuric acid ; but, not having a sufficient quantity of the barium sait, I employed the following process, more practical in a printworks :—
  - A solution of yellow prussiate of potash is made and another of tartaric acid, they are gradually mixed, pouring the acid into the prussiate, a precipitate of bitartrate of potash takes place, and the hydroferrocyanic acid remains in solution. The strongest acid which I procured by this method marked 36° Tw., and serves to dissolve the aniline. In dissolving the aniline care must be taken not to let the température pass 1200 F., as an excess of aniline interfères with the crystalliza-tion the liquid is preferably left slightly acid ; upon cooling it forms abundant crystals of prussiate or ferrocyanide of aniline.
  - This sait crystallizes in white plates, very light. When quickly dried at the ordinary température they remain white for a considérable time, but become yellow when dried at 1200 F., and turn black in time even in stoppered bottles.
  - The-» ferrocyanide is very soluble in both cold and warm water ; when the solution is boiled it décomposés into ferri-cyanic acid and aniline, which floats upon the surface of the liquid. It is but slightly soluble in alcohol, ether, or sulphide of carbon, but dissolves readily in aldéhyde. It can be purified by two or three times recrystallizing, but prepared in this way it cannot be obtained wholly free from bitartrate of potash.
  - By adding salammoniac and chlorate of potash to a thickened solution of this sait, very fine blacks can be obtained
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  - by steaming without the necessity of ageing. The colour prints well, does not act upon the doctor, nor tender the cloth ; it keeps good for eight days or upwards.
  - When the black colour is reduced by thickening, it gives good greys, which are fast to soap and chlorine. Intense blacks can also be obtained by mixing the ferrocyanide with a thickened solution of chlorate of aniline.
  - The blacks from the ferrocyanide do not become green in the air as the copper blacks do. They can be printed with albumen colours, such as pigment green or ultramarine, or with alizarine, and extract colours without forming white edges ; they work well also with steam Prussian blues or greens. They may be boiled in soap and strongly chlored just as the ordinary black.
  - This sait mixed with steam logwood black increases its intensity and fastness, and a steam colour may be thus pre-pared which can be printed in the finest patterns, preserving its goodness under albumen and extract colours.
  - A solution of prussiate of aniline thickened with gum substitute gives, after twenty-four hours ageing and passing in bichromate, tolerably fast greys ; the same colour steamed gives a bright blue like Prussian blue, but not fast to soap.
  - Ferricyanide of Aniline.—This is prepared in the same way as the ferrocyanide, substituting red prussiate for yellow prussiate, the hydroferricyanic acid can be obtained at from 35° to 400 Tw. ; it dissolves aniline more readily than the other acid. The crystallized sait is in plates of dark violet colour ; it is very soluble in cold or warm water, it dissolves in alcohol and aldéhyde with a violet colour, not soltble in ether or sulphide of carbon, and is richer in aniline than the ferrocyanide.
  - The sait gives very fine blacks in the same way as the ferrocyanide, the same préparations yielding a more intense colour. The colour does not hurt the cloth nor act upon the doctor, but it does not keep as well as the previous colour.
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  - 8. Note upon the Prussiate of AnilïneP BY M. ERNEST SCHLUMBERGER.
  - M. WEHRLIN having communicated to me his notes upon the prussiates of aniline, and having myself worked upon the same subject, I desire to append the following observations:—•
  - The ferrocyanide of aniline being but sparingly soluble, its saturated cold solution not marking more than 4° or 5° Tw., I thought this property could be advantageously made use of in its préparation. After some trials it was found that the best results could be obtained by the décomposition of muriate of aniline with yellow prussiate of potash. The prussiate of aniline on account of its sparing solubility précipitâtes almost completely, while the chloride of potassium, which is soluble in three times its weight of water remains dissolved.
  - I operate in the following manner:—Fourpounds aniline are mixed with 4 1b. muriatic acid at 29° Tw., and the mixture left until completely cold ; on the other hand, 434 1b. of yellow prussiate are dissolved in 8% 1b. of boiling water, the latter solution is allowed cool to 134° F., and just before it would begin to crystallize it is poured into the cold solution of muriate of aniline. Upon cooling of the whole there is obtained a semifluid mass of crystals of the prussiate of aniline. For use I find it sufficient to let the mass drain well upon filter, because drying is difficult to accomplish on a quantity without decomposing a part of the sait. The fore-going quantities yield about 97 1b. of drained sait.
  - This process appears to me simpler, quicker, and cheaper than the one described by M. Wehrlin.
  - The moist sait can be kept without decomposing for several days, especially if in a dark place ; light causes it to become violet coloured. After a while it is completely decomposed ; a sample which I prepared two years ago was found recently
  - * Abridged from the Bull, de la Soc. Ind. de Mulhouse, xliv,, p. 390..
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- - UPON THE PRUSSIATES OF ANILINE. 191
  - to be changed into a black, earthy substance, probably a mixture of aniline black and Prussian blue ; but for several days at least it can be calculated upon as keeping good.
  - To make a black colour, about 10 per cent. of the prussiate of aniline is added to a thickened solution of chlorate of aniline.
  - In endeavouring to préparé the ferricyanide of aniline in a similar manner from red prussiate, I found the resuit unsatisfactory on account of the greater solubility of the sait in water.
  - I have serions doubts of the value of M. Wehrlin’s process for preparing this latter sait, for the décomposition of red prussiate by an équivalent of tartaric acid is very incomplète ; the solution would contain besides hydroferricyanic acid a large proportion of tartaric acid and potash, which would naturally interfère with the subséquent reactions.
  - Moreover, I have found the ferrocyanide préférable in all respects to ferricyanide. The chief objection to this statement is that it is not rational to employ a compound in the colour which must consume a certain portion of the oxidi-zing power of the chlorate of potash before it could itself act as an oxidizer. But this objection is more apparent than real, for in the case of copper or iron blacks the same may be said. The sulphide of copper must be first oxidized before it can act, and the salts of iron at the minimum of oxidation must go through the same change, and they can be used with-out inconvenience.
  - The quantity of chlorate of potash required to oxidize 100 of yellow prussiate is moreover not more than 4'9 parts, and the use of chlorate of aniline permits the introduction of as much chlorate as may be required. On the other hand, the ferrocyanide colour keeps for an indefinite length of time and does not act upon the doctors, which is not the case with the ferricyanide. There is no exaggeration in saying that the colour prepared with the ferrocyanide of aniline is as much superior to the old aniline colours with red prussiate, as the sulphide of copper black is superior to Lightfoot’s original colour.
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  - M. Brandt was requested to report upon these two papers his report is in great measure an echo of the papers them-selves. It appears that so long ago as 1866, M. Risler-Beunat, of Barcelona, forwarded a note to the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, describing a steam aniline black made with muriate of aniline, chlorate of potash, and a large proportion of prussiate of copper. But this black was found to tender the cloth, and, moreover, required ageing before steaming, which brought it down to the level of the common aniline blacks, most of which can be steamed after ageing. M. Brandt considers Schlumberger’s process for preparing the ferrocyanide of aniline as decidedly préférable to Wehrlin’s, but déclinés to décidé as to the relative excellence of the two prussiates for making the colour—some manipulators will prefer one and some another. He concludes as follows :— " Up to the présent time either the ferro- or ferricyanic acid, under one form or another, form part of the, composition of all steam aniline blacks. This considération leads us back to the first aniline black in which the prussiates were used, that is the one discovered by M. Cordillot, who employed the prussiate of ammonia. It was not a steam black, but at the same time it was the starting point of all the blacks with prussiate, and by modifying the préparation could be made into an excellent steam black. In order that Cordillot’s original black should develop without steaming, the colour was required to be very acid and to be aged very warm ; with all that it was not an intense black, being too blue, and much inferior in every respect to the sulphide of copper black which displaced it. But if instead of a black to be developed by ageing, a steam aniline black had been wanted, it would have been found long since. In fact, by using a mixture of chlorate of aniline, prussiate of ammonia, and muriate of aniline, a very intense steam black can be obtained which yields to no other black, unless it be in cost, where Schlumberger’s has the advantage.”
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  - Colours for Woollen and Mixed Goods—Delaines.
  - For several years previously to 1852 delaine printing was a brisk and profitable business in Lancashire and elsewhere ; about that time it suddenly fell off, whether owing to change of taste as some suppose, or as others think from the introduction of dyed alpaca goods it is unneccessary to discuss. In the United States it formed an important item in printing for several years after it had become quite insignificant in England. It has been suggested to the editor that there are symptoms of a revival of the demand for printed woollens and delaines, and that it might be useful to a younger génération of colourists to see a collection of authentic receipts of colours which were successfully used for these styles some years ago.
  - Printing of fine woollens has never been much practised in the North of England, not working in well with the staple business of a calico printer. The fabric technically known as “delaine,” or more fully “muslin,” or "mousseline-de-laine," is, as is well known, composed of a cotton warp and a woollen weft The relative weight of wool to cotton varies in different qualifies, an average cloth gave three-fifths wool to two-fifths cotton. The chief point in delaine printing is to obtain the same shade upon the cotton as upon the wool, or at least so nearly alike in shade as not to give the appearance of “ threadiness ” which arises from an unequal dyeing of the fibre. Both pure woollens and delaines are prepared with tin for printing by processes which have been previously given. Black colours were given vol. i., pp. 23 and 108, and are not repeated in this collection.
  - The following receipts are from unpublished documents; they are first hand from different sources; many of them have been applied by the editor in practice, and the others are from reliable correspondents who have given permission for
  - * Continued from vol. ii., p. 96.
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  - their publication. It cannot be too often repeated that a collection of receipts is like a collection of tools, only to be profitably used by those who understand how to use them ; the ignorant, or the inexpert will make nothing out of them, and will probably say the tools are bad to excuse their own want of skill. Even an expert colourist getting a new and genuine receipt from a friend will often find he cannot obtain good results from it until he has made some change or modification to adapt it to his particular wants or circumstances.
  - No. 169. Outline Chocolaté — Delaine.
  - 18 gallons logwood liquor at 12° Tw.—6 gallons bark liquor at i6° Tw.—40 1b. starch—10 1b. gum substitute ; boil and cool to 1 50° F. 772 1b. alum—3 1b. chlorate of potash— 3 1b. red prussiate.
  - No. 170. Dark Chocolaté—Delaine.
  - 3 quarts sapan wood at 12° Tw.— 5 quarts logwood liquor at 12°—2 quarts nitrate of alumina—172 quarts bark liquor at 24°—4 1b. starch—4 1b. British gum—I gill oil ; boil, cool, and add 4 oz. chlorate of potash—4 oz. yellow prussiate—4 oz. tartaric acid.
  - No. 171. Chocolaté for Wool.
  - 12 quarts archil liquor at 180 Tw.—172 1b. alum—4 oz. salammoniac— 4 72 oz. oxalic acid ; stir until the effervesence is over—27 1b. starch—2}4 1b. gum substitute—14 oz. sulphate of indigo. A small quantity of black for wool may be added to obtain darker shades.
  - No. 172. Blotch Chocolaté for Wool.
  - 10 quarts archil—1 quart water—6 oz. sulphate of indigo ; thicken with 4 1b. gum.
  - No. 173. Blotch Chocolaté—Delaine.
  - 10 quarts peachwood liquor at 240 Tw.—30 1b. gum—4 quarts hot water—772 1b. alum dissolved in 14 quarts hot water—1 72 quarts bark liquor at 30°—2 quarts logwood liquor at 300—334 1b. muriate of copper and 2 1b. salammoniac.*
  - * It is to be noted that these receipts where the logwood and other liquors are so strong as 300 Tw., are of French origin. Liquors of such strength, though preferred on the continent, are seldom prepared in England.
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  - No. 174. Gum Red Chocolaté— Delaine.
  - 10 gallons sapan liquor at 14° Tw.—40 1b. gum substitute, 'dissolve by heating—72 1b. salammoniac—6 1b. alum—2}4 1b. chlorate of potash—4 oz. oxalic acid—7 quarts prepared log-wood liquor, which is made by dissolving 9 1b. alum—9 1b. red prussiate—272 gallons lime juice in 12 gallons of logwood liquor at 12° Tw.
  - No. 175. Another Gum Red Chocolaté—Delaine.
  - 24 1b. gum—8 quarts sapan liquor at 30° Tw.—4 quarts water—8 quarts nitrate of alumina—2 quarts bark liquor at 30°—172 quarts logwood liquor at 300—134 1b. chlorate of potash—7 oz. sulphate of copper ; the two latter salts dis-solved in 6 quarts boiling water. The nitrate of alumina made from 8 quarts boiling water—8 1b. alum—n 1b. nitrate oflead.
  - No. 176. Catechu Brown Blotch—Delaine.
  - 2 gallons catechu liquor at 5 1b. per gallon—2 gallons gum water—1}4 1b. copper solution. Copper solution made by dissolving 8 1b. acetate of copper—2 1b. cream of tartar—12 1b. acetic acid—2 gallons water, using the clear.
  - No. 177. Dark Brown—Delaine.
  - Catechu standard made by dissolving 272 1b. of catechu in a gallon of bark liquor. Red standard made by dissolving i 1b. alum—4 oz. oxalic acid—7 oz. chlorate of potash in 8 1b. sapan liquor at 16° Tw. Purple or blue standard, the prepared logwood liquor in No. 174 above. A standard brown may be prepared by thickening with gum substitute a mixture of 5 parts red standard, 40 parts catechu standard, and 10 parts of the prepared logwood.
  - No. 178. Brown.—Delaine.
  - 3 gallons bark liquor at 160 Tw.—1 gallon sapan liquor at io° Tw.—1 quart logwood liquor at 100 Tw.—6 quarts red liquor at 160 Tw.—3 pints nitrate of alumina—272 1b. alum—• 2 oz. chlorate of potash—2 oz. tin crystals—7 1b. starch ; boil, and add 2 oz. oxalic acid.
  - [To be continued^\
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  - 10. British and Foreign Patents^ from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, August 28th to September 28th, 18^, inclusive.
  - Bleaching, Cleansing, Scouring.
  - 1900. Adolphe Alexandre Plantrou, jeune, of Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23, Paris (France), Director of Manufacture, for an invention of “An improved process of scouring and purifying vegetable and animal fibres and fabrics.”—Dated i5th May, 1877.
  - 3235. Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an invention of " Im-provements in decolorizing textile and other materials."—A communication to him from abroad by Joseph Marie Clément, of Paris, France.—Dated 5th August, 1877.
  - 3617. John Imray, of 20, Southampton Buildings, in the county of Middlesex, for an invention of " Improvements in the bleaching and cleansing of textile vegetable materials.”—A communication to him from abroad by Paul Bayle, Merchant, and Rinaldo Pontiggia, Chemist, both of Paris, France.—Dated 27th Sep-ber, 1877.
  - 42,670. A. A. Plantrou, a Patent of Improvement for " Scouring and purifying textile substances at once.”-—Dated 2 3rd July, 1877.—(Original Patent, i4th May, 1877.—Belgian Patent.
  - 2 ...
  - 42,895. J. M. Clement, for an imported invention of " Improvements in decolouring vegetable and animal textiles.”—Dated 24th August, 1877.—(French Patent, 28th July, 1877.)—Belgian Patent.
  - Patterns, Designs.
  - 3123. Edwin Thurmand, of Batley, in the county of York, for the invention of " An improved method of forming patterns or designs on felted fabrics.”—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 4880. W. Winter, of Prague, for " A process for obtaining photographie designs on fabrics.”—5 years.—Dated 17th April, 1877. —Saxony Patent.
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PA TENTS. 197
  - 74. W. WINTR, of Prague, for “ Obtaining photographie pictures on fabrics.”—1 year.—(Secret.)—Dated 14th May, 1877.— Austrian Patent.
  - Colouring Matters.
  - 188,061. Félix de Lalande, of Paris, France, for the “Processes of obtaining artificial purpurine from alizarine."—Application filed 7th June, 1876.—United States patent.
  - 188 ,217. Justus Wolff, of Wyke, near Bradford, and Ralph Betley, of Wigan, England, for " Processes of making dyes from naphthaline.”—Application filed 23rd January, 1877.— United States patent.
  - 189,538. Justus Wolff, of Wyke, near Bradford, and Ralph Betley, of Wigan, England, for " Production of coloring matters fom aniline.”—Application filed 2 3rd January, 1877.— United States patent.
  - 76. M. E. Savigny, of St. Mande', and A. C. Colltneau, of Paris, for " Obtaining an innocuous vegetable dye called ‘ cauline,’ "— 1 year.—(Secret.)—Dated 4th April, 1877.—Austrian patent.
  - 42,602. J. Zeltner, for “Obtaining a new colour called ‘Ultra-marine violet.’”—Dated nth July, 1877.—Belgian patent.
  - 42,603. J. Zeltner, for " Obtaining a new colour called ‘ Ultra-marine red.’ ”—Dated nth July, 1877.—Belgian patent.
  - 42,973. A. C. Beghin, for an imported invention of “Composition of a new black.”—Dated 30th August, 1877.—(French patent, ist May, 1877.)—Belgian patent.
  - Printing and Dyeing Processes and Apparatus.
  - 1648. George Cantrell Gibbs, of Brentford, in the county of Middlesex, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “ Improvements in machinery or apparatus for dyeing and colouring felt, silk, and other textile or porous fabrics.”
  - 1761. Joseph Wilson Swan, of Newcastle-on-Tyne, in the county of the same town, Chemist, and Isaac Freeman, of the same place, Accountant, have given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “ Improvements in the means of printing from punctured stencils.”
  - 2513. William Morgan-Brown, of the firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, South-
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- - 198
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  - ampton Buildings, London, and i, Rue Laffitte, Paris, for an invention of " Improvements in printing textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Henry Dorr Dupee, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, United States of America.—Dated 29thJune, 1877.
  - 3214. George Cantrell Gibbs, of Brentford, in the county of Middlesex, for an invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for dyeing and colouring felt, silk, and other textile or porous materials."—Dated 19th September, 1874.—The 50
  - stamp duty has been paid.
  - 2462. Thomas Nesham Kirkham, of West Brompton, Vernon Francis Ensom of Highgate, both in the county of Middlesex, and George Spence, of Pendleton, in the county of Lancaster, for an invention of " Improvements in apparatus suitable for scouring, washing, bleaching, dyeing, and drying fibrous materials in the raw and manufactured State, and for like purposes.”— Dated i2th September, 1870.—This patent has become void.
  - 188,370. William IRELAND, of Buckhaven, North Britain, for “Machines for printing textile fabrics.”—Application filed ist May, 1875.—United States patent.
  - 189,868. C. McBurney, of Boston, Mass., for “Blankets for calico-printing."—Application filed 7th April, 1876.—United States patent.
  - 189,371. Wm. Mather, of Salford, England, for “An apparatus for steaming and ageing printed fabrics.”—Dated 2 5th Novem-ber, 1876.—United States patent.
  - 58. C. Scholz, of Semil, for “An apparatus for applying colours on printing blocks.”—1 year.—(Secret.)—Dated 14th May, 1877.—Austrian patent.
  - Yara. Treatments.
  - 3427. John Collins, of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, Engineer, for an invention of “ Improvements in washing, scouring, and dyeing yams, and in machinery or apparatus employed therefor.”—Dated nth September, 1877.
  - 3488. Julien Paty, of Boulevard-de-Strasburg, 23, Manufacturer, for an invention of “An improved apparatus for dressing or preparing yarns or materials in the process of colouring or dyeing wool, cotton, silk, and other fibrous substances.”— Dated 17th September, 1877.— Provisional protection has been granted.
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PATENTS.
  - 199
  - 2982. Albert SAUVEE, of 22, Parliament Street, Westminster, in the county of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for an invention of " Improvements in the apparatus used for dyeing materials, either woven, spun, or in skeins or hanks.”—A communication to him from abroad by Monsieur César Corron, Dyer, of Saint Etienne (Loire), France.—Dated ist Septemher, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 4996. W. Vogel, of Chemnitz, for “Obtaining undyed plain and mixed worsted yarn from native dark sheep’s wool.”—5 years.— Dated 27th June, 1877.—Saxony patent.
  - Silk and. Wool Treatments.
  - 187,643. J. H. Knowles, J. K. Proctor, and F. P. PENDLETON, Philadelphia, Pa., assignors to said Proctor and Pendleton and Thomas Cunningham, Lucian Brown, George Brown, and H. B. Lincoln, of the same place, for " Wool-washing machines.”'— Application filed i6th October, 1873.—United States patent.
  - 188,385. O. Lowe, of Hyde Park, Mass., for “Machines for cleans-ing wool and other material.”—Application filed 31st July, 1876.—United States patent.
  - 95. A. VOLKENBORN, of Langenberg, for “An apparatus for smooth-ing and lustring silk threads.”—3 years.—Dated 2oth June, 1877.—Prussian patent.
  - 42,663. A. and V. and J. T. Tribouillet, of Brussels, a Patent of Improvement for " Processes and apparatus for washing wool, &c.”—Dated 2ist July, 1877.—(Original patent, 24 July, 1876). —Belgian patent.
  - / / i
  - 42,820. Mrs. O. Frezon, Mrs. T. Mace, O. G. Frezon, E. A. Picard, and Mrs. Picard, for an imported invention of “ Burling fancy coloured tissues.”—Dated 14th August 1877.— (French patent, nth August, 1877).—Belgian patent.
  - 42,878. H. Demeuse and Co., for “Improvements in apparatus for burring wool.”—Dated 2ist August, 1877.—Belgian patent.
  - Finishing, Plaiting, and Miscellaneous.
  - 1066. Samuel Milne Smith, Charles Telford Smith, and William Binns, of the firm of Samuel Smith and Company, of Bradford, in the county of York, Dyers and Finishers, for an invention of " Improvements in finishing ‘moreens’ and corded fabrics.”—Dated i6th March, 1877.—Sealed September 15th, 1877.
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  - 3293. Gérard WENZESLAUS von Nawrocki, of the firm of J. Brandt and G. W. von Nawrocki, Civil Engineers and Patent Agents, of 2, Koch Strasse, Berlin, in the German empire, for an invention of “An improved apparatus for testing the strength of cloth and other textile fabrics.”—A communication to him from Hermann Ehlers, of Rostock, in the German empire.—-Dated 29th August, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3451. Barkly Charles Wilson, of the firm of Wilson, Collet, and Company, of the city of London, Lace Manufacturers, for an invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for plaiting fabrics.”—Dated 13th September, 1877.
  - 3628. William Edward Newton, of the office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for an invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for stretching fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Alfred François Lacassaigne, of Paris, in the republic of France. —Dated 27th September, 1877.
  - 2873. John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, in the county of Middlesex, Gentleman, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for folding or plaiting fabrics.” —A communication to him from abroad by Orange McConnell Chamberlain, of the city, county, and State of New York, United States of America.—Dated 2oth August, 1874.—This Patent has become void.
  - 189,030. T. Hagerty, of Brooklyn, N. Y., for "Plaiting-machines." —Application filed 6th March, 1877.—United States Patent.
  - 42,599. D. Pirard, of Brussels, for “A plaiting machine.”—Dated 9th July, 1877.—Belgian Patent.
  - 42,961. H. Ehlers, for “An apparatus for testing the strength of cloth.”—Dated 30th August, 1877.—Belgian patent.
  - 4855. H. Ehlers, of Rostock, for “An apparatus for ascertaining the strength of fabrics.”—5 years.—Dated 12th January, 1877.— Saxony patent.
  - 165. W. Hedtmann and A. Henkels, of Langerfeld, for “A plaiting machine.”—3 years.—Dated 27th June, 1877.—Prussian patent.
  - 277. J. Macdonald, of London, for “A process for giving vege-table textiles a silky appearance."—3 years.—Dated 3oth June, 1877.—Prussian patent.
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 23.] NOVEMBER, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - I. Testing of Indigo*
  - B Y M. V. TAN TIN.
  - It is not necessary to dwell upon the importance it is to the consumer of indigo to be able to ascertain the quality of what he purchases and employs. Every kind and every brand is subject to great variations ; it is therefore indispensable for the user to have a ready method of exactly testing the amount of colouring matter in this dyestuff.
  - The external character, though of importance, may be very deceptive, and however experienced the purchaser, he must be aware that he is liable to very erroneous conclusions if he values a sample of indigo from its brand or its appearance.
  - When I first turned my attention to testing indigo, I expected to find some satisfactory method among those described in chemical works, but I was greatly deceived, for I could find no process which was at the same time accurate and easy to execute. The volumétrie processes, founded upon the property of the colouring matter of indigo to be destroyed by various oxidizing substances, such as chlorine, bleaching powder, chlorate or bichromate of potash, are all subject to considérable error, for the oxygen does not act only upon the blue colouring matter, but also upon other organic substances présent, such as the indigo brown, indigo
  - * Paper read to the Industrial Society of Fiers (Orne). Abridged from Moniteur Scientifique for November, 1877, p. 1148.
  - O
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  - R
  - gluten, indigo red, etc. Bichromate of potash, which has been specially recommended, has another inconvenience, that of making the liquids green, which causes it to be very difficult to détermine the point of completion of the reaction.
  - The method of Houton-Labillardière rests upon a rigor-ously exact System, but his colorimeter does not shew in a clear manner changes of colour, and it is easy to make an error of 10 per cent, with it. The new and improved colorimeter of Salleron is, however, free from the defects of the old instrument, and enables the observer to discern very small différences of intensity of colour in the indigo solutions, so that a quantity of colouring matter inappréciable by means of the most délicate balance, can be estimated by means of this instrument. With this improved colorimeter, the method of Houton-Labillardière can be carried out ; this principle is, that two solutions formed with equal weights of the same colouring matter in equal quantities of water, when viewed in glass tubes of the same diameter, will présent colours of equal intensity, and that solutions made with unequal weights of the same colouring matter will exhibit colours with intensities proportionate to the quantities.
  - To estimate the différence in the intensity of coloured liquids, they are introduced into tubes graduated to the same scale, and placed in the apparatus called the colorimeter ; then the more intensely coloured liquid is diluted with water until it is brought to the same shade as the less intensely coloured liquid, and the relative strength of the colouring matter calculated.
  - The new colorimeter of Salleron consists of a box in form of a truncated pyramid, fixed by one of its sides to a support, by which it can be raised or lowered at will ; the broader end of the box is shaped so that the face of the observer can be applied to it and shut out the greater part of the exterior light ; inside the apparatus is provided with a pair of blackened metallic plates, in each of which are eut two parallel slits of the same dimensions, a hinged mirror of opal glass reflects diffused light into the interior of the box. Between the two metallic plates there is a glass cell con-
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  - structed of two pièces of glass, separated by three glass partitions of equal size, two at the ends and one at the middle, forming two separate cells of rectangular section. Above the box is fitted a graduated burette which holds water ; there is also attached a platinum tube which descends to the bottom of the glass cell, the upper part being con-nected with an india-rubber tube, so that by blowing through it the bubbles of air cause the liquid in that cell to be thoroughly mixed up.
  - Method of Proceeding.—To préparé the sample to be tested, the indigo sent by the dealer is scraped by a knife until 5 grammes (about 75 grains) are detached. If the sample con-sists of several pièces a portion must be scraped off each one, proportional to its weight.
  - The scraped indigo is ground in an iron mortar and sieved through fine sieving silk. The grinding and sieving must be continued until all has gone through the sieve, for if any portion is left it is impossible to be certain that a fair sample has been taken.
  - A quantity of the sieved indigo, equal to 0'3 gramme (about 5 grs.) is weighed out very accurately upon a sensitive balance.
  - As a standard for comparison, pure indigotine is taken. This is procured by collecting the scum or flower which con-tinually forms on the top of indigo vats. This scum is treated by hydrochloric acid and water to remove foreign substances. The residue of this operation carefully washed upon a filter is dried or kept in well-stoppered bottles.
  - The comparison of samples of indigo with this indigotine requires much attention ; it can only be used to détermine the value of some given sample of indigo, which in its turn serves as a standard with which to compare other samples.
  - Solution of the Indigo Samples.—The 0’3 gramme of indigo is introduced into a test tube ; 10 grammes of broken glass, quite clean and dry, are added, and then by means of a graduated pipette, 5 c. centimètres (about 75 grains measure) of chemically pure sulphuric acid added. I attach much importance to the use of this acid in preference to the Nordhausen sulphuric acid, which gives purple-coloured solutions in which
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOUR1ST.
  - the eye appréciâtes with great difficulty small variations of intensity.
  - The tubes are heated to 140° or 160° F., in a water bath, stirring the contents every half hour. At the end of four hours the solution of the indigotine will be complété, and is mixed with water so as to make three litres ; to do this accu-rately the expérimenter must be provided with a narrow-necked flask of that capacity, with a mark on the neck at the right point. The solution is left to settle for half an hour before being examined in the colorimeter.
  - Comparison of Intensity of Colour.—Ten cubic centimètres (about 150 grs.) of the solution to be tested is then transferred to the glass cell 011 the right hand, and an equal quantity of the standard liquid is placed in the left hand cell. The two solutions will be generally found of different intensity, the standard being most frequently the darkest. By means of the burette a few drops of water are added to the left hand cell, then by means of the india-rubber tube air is gently blown into the liquid, so as to mix it well up with the water added. The two solutions are now observed, to see if they are of equal depth, if not so, more water is carefully added until the two solutions are exactly equal. The operation is then finished. The burette shews how many c. centimètres of water have been added, and the calculations can then be made.
  - If we suppose that it has been necessary to add 2 c. centimètres of water to the standard liquor to make it of equal shade with the sample, it is évident that the colouring power of the standard will be to that of the sample as 10 plus 2, that is, 12 is to 10, or the sample is worth five-sixths of the price of the standard. If the standard has an actual value of 20 francs the kilogramme, the sample is only worth five-sixths of that price, or 16 francs 66 centimes.
  - The reverse of this might happen ; the sample might give a darker colour than the standard ; in such a case the liquids must be placed in the contrary cells (the burette being a fixture), and the sample solution diluted until the colours are equal. Supposing it had been necessary to add 1.8 c. centimètre of water to the sample, then the colouring power of the
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  - sample would be to the standard as 11-8 is to 10 ; again, taking the value of the standard as 20 francs per kilogramme, that of the sample would be 23 francs 60 centimes.
  - A glance at the following table will immediately shew the différences there are between the selling prices and the actual value of various kinds of indigo as calculated by the real amount of colouring matter présent. Attention may be directed to the first four samples of indigo, which are Bengal and of the same brand. It will be seen that the fourth when compared with the first shews an advantage of 11 per cent, to the purchaser.
  - Several of the indigos put down in the table were employed on the large scale, and the results in practice were in perfect agreement with the results of analysis.
  - It is necessary in order to have absolutely exact results, that the comparison should be made between indigos of the same origin, because it is évident, for example, that with an equal proportion of indigotine Bengal indigo would be of higher value than a Java or Guatemela indigo.
  - [In the foregoing paper M. Tantin appears to have obtained good results from the peculiar form of colorimeter employed, but we do not think it well to let the paper pass without saying that this method of testing indigo or any other colouring matter is open to numerous sources of error, and can only succeed in the hands of a very expert manipulator accustomed to the apparatus. With regard to indigo, the method is particularly liable to error from the influence which foreign matters have upon the colour of the sulphuric solution. The 10 c. centimètres put into the glass cells represent a very small quan-tity of indigo, less than one-fiftieth part of a grain, and the utmost delicacy must be used to avoid considérable errors. As to the sup-posed percentage of indigotine in the samples, the figures are worthless except for comparison. The pure indigotine cannot be obtained by the method described; if the product contained 80 per cent, of indigotine it would probably be the utmost. Only crystallized indigotine can be considered as pure.—Ed.\
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  - N & 8
  - 9
  - ( X N 8 >1 © 0) N © S t F
  - Results of Indigo Testing made at the Industrial SCHOOL OF FLERS (ORNE), IN 1875.
  - Kind of Indigo. Indigotine per cent. Selling price per kilo. Actual value per kilo.
  - ( 6366 2r3O 22-58
  - 63’66 2r5O 22-58
  - 59'57 22'00 21-13
  - Varions brands —c 5 6’43 21'30 20'02
  - J 59'02 20-20 20'04
  - 01 ' 62’27 19-80 22'00
  - Bengal. 55'00 I9-4O I9-50
  - 64'34 22’40 22'82
  - 7i'4i 28’00 25'33
  - 1 67-85 22′60 24'07
  - Madras 39'07 12’50
  - Java 67-05 20’00
  - Vellore 44-46 14-00
  - Kurpah 61-27 14-00
  - Onde 47-08 16-50
  - Native 48-36 15-00
  - Guatemala 65-62 2170
  - Colombia 72:70 25-20
  - Nicaragua 64-34 18′00
  - Raves Black.— This black, called “noir direct,” was patented in France April 19th, 1877, No. 112,497. It is described as obtained by acting upoh a décoction of campeachy with a sait or mordant which changes the colour to black ; the pre-cipitate is washed and delivered to be consumed in the State of paste.—Bull, de la Soc. Chem., Oct. ^th, 1877.
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  - 8 § 8 by N s § s
  - 2. Materials for a History of Textile Colouring, No. 8.
  - The Introduction of Chloring by Machine.—This improve-ment is of modem date, and the only authentic documents referring to it consist of a communication from MM. Claude Royet and Georges Steinbach to the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, read October 31st, 1855, and a report of the Chemical Section of that Society upon the said communication. They are translated in the following pages from the 27th Volume of the Bulletin of the Society.
  - "Everyone familiar with the production of madder and garancine styles is acquainted with the numerous irregularities arising from the System of clearing whites by grassing. In winter it is especially difficult to obtain regular results, sometimes for weeks together the goods cannot be put upon the grass ; we need not speak of the cost of labour, loss of time, and various accidents occasioned by the wind, and soot from the works, chimneys, etc.
  - " Chemists and manufacturers have doubtless always had a view to chlorine as a means of bleaching independent of climatic influences. But this element, so powerful and so valuable in general bleaching, is not easy to manage, and it has required considérable labour and experiment to enable the operators to guide and control at will its powerful bleaching properties.
  - " The problem to be solved in the application of chlorine was apparently simple, being no more than to clear or bleach the unprinted portions of the cloth without materially affecting the colours.
  - "During the winter of 1846-1847, the firm of Blech, Steinbach, and Mantz, undertook an extensive sériés of trials to résolve the.question. The experiments made at this time may be classified in six séries.
  - “(1) Printing, padding, or covering by means of a pin
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  - roller (mille points) the print with solution of bleaching powder at varions strengths, commencing with a standard at il0 Tw., mixed with water in the proportion of I to 1,000, 1 to 125, 1 to 40, 1 to 20, 1 to 4, 1 to 2, and passing the goods immediately into boiling water for three minutes.
  - "(2) Padding with the same roller and same solutions as in No. 1, and passing the goods directly afterwards into a dry-ing room heated to 120° F.
  - "(3) Padding as in No. I with pin roller and drying upon steam drums or tins.
  - "(4) Padding as in No. 1 and immediately steaming for three minutes.
  - "(5) After padding in various strengths of bleaching powder as in No. 1, leaving wet on rolls for twenty-four hours, then washing in hot water.
  - "(6) After padding as in No. I, passing into water acidulated with tartaric acid at the rate of i 1b. to 40 gallons of water.
  - “The sériés of trials from i to 6 were repeated in the same manner with the neutral chlorides of potash and soda in various proportions, employing also an ordinary padding machine instead of the engraved roller.
  - “For several months we practised padding the goods in weak chloride of lime and drying slowly in the ( hot flue,’ but by this method we could get through only a limited number of pièces, and we were obliged to give it up for the System of using the pin roller, and drying immediately by passing the cloth over an extended surface of steam chests. This method, which we applied on the large scale in our works since the spring of 1847, has yielded constant good results.
  - “Later on this plan spread to other works in France, Germany, and England, and if we are correctly informed, one or two English firms clear their garancine styles precisely according to the No. 4 method above, that is, applying the bleaching liquor by means of a roller, and steaming immediately afterwards. This System of working, however, has not given us good results, the fine, délicate, and detached parts of the design being considerably injured by it.
  - "Chlorine has been employed for many years past in print-
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  - works for bleaching grey calico, the whites of madder purples, for oxidizing wool, etc., its manner of action being always the same, that is, sometimes acting as a dehydrogenizing agent, removing hydrogen from colouring bodies and transforming them into other substances, sometimes acting as an oxidizing agent, taking the hydrogen of water and liberating its oxygen. in the spécial case of garancines its action is not thoroughly complété, for it may be observed that the white grounds— though seemingly perfectly bleached—become slightly pink when rinsed in water. The question arises whether there is only temporary destruction of some part of the colouring matter which revives upon contact with water and air.
  - “A similar phenomenon is observable in the discharge white upon Turkey red, which becomes yellow after a time of ex-posure to the air ; but here the question is probably compli-cated on account of the presence of a strongly resinous matter.
  - “In clearing garancine dyed goods there is a fortunate cir-cumstance which permits the operation to be carried on with remarkable regularity. It may be observed that the unprinted parts take up liquid more easily than the printed parts, and, consequently, the bleaching solution acts more vigorously upon the whites than upon the colours. This peculiarity of the mordanted portions not being wetted so easily as the unmor-danted parts makes it practicable to treat catechu grounds, logwood blacks, cochineal scarlets, and other colours, which it would be impossible to treat in a liquid bath of bleaching powder, however weak, without greatly injuring the colours. This peculiarity is not, however, an essential property ; it does not explain how it is that the whites of garancine work cannot be properly cleared in the usual clearing beck. It will be seen further on that the différence in the manner of acting of the bleaching agent by padding, or by solution, or as we may say by printing, or by dyeing methods, rests entirely upon the relative proportions of the substance applied and the liberty of action which the two different processes allow. By printing it is possible to regulate the strength of the solution according to the requirements of the whites. Working in a solution is
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- - 210 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - different under any circumstances, for the goods are entirely surrounded by the medium, and the destructive action of the chlorine cannot be confined to a given place as it can by printing. This différence, which is apparently physical, and in one case may be said to be putting the chlorine on the cloth, and in the other putting the cloth in the chlorine, is found upon examination to possess chemical aspects which make the two processes quite distinct, and which shew that the advantages of direct application of the bleaching liquor arise from the fact that by immersion in chlorine the active element is not uniformly absorbed by the whole surface of the cloth, but that the coloured parts take the greater portion of it; the organic substances of the colour shewing an attraction for it similar to that of mordants for colouring matter. The actual substance of the fabric, the cotton, taking only an insignificant proportion, so that if the oxidizable matter which may remain in the mordants be neglected, the action is one simply between the colouring matter and the chlorine.
  - “This fundamental distinction is easy to verify, and shews itself most plainly in working at low températures.
  - “For example, in the cold the décomposition of the colouring matter, combined with the mordants, is effected before there is any action upon the cloth, and this décomposition is capable of destroying twenty times the amount of chlorine which is required to clear the whites by the System of pad-ding, whence cornes the possible destruction of the colours themselves before the whites are cleared.
  - “By working warm with bleaching solution, the chlorine, which is much more readily separated in that State, acts with but little différence upon all organic matters présent, and expérience shews that there is an approach to uniform action all over the surface, and no disproportionate absorption by the coloured parts.
  - “When the same quantity of chlorine is applied by the liquid or dyeing process to dyed colours, which is found suffi-cient to give good whites by the padding or printing process, nothing is found to take place beyond an oxidizing action, and it requires twice or three times the amount of chlorine
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- - CHL ORING B Y MA CHINE. 211
  - before it begins to act upon the whites, and then the action is found to be accompanied by injury to the colours themselves.
  - “By whatever method the chlorine is applied to clear the whites it acts upon the colours themselves, when of equal permeability, before it acts upon the unmordanted parts ; we understand by this that layer of crude colouring matter visible upon the white parts which, on account of its fineness, has mechanically penetrated the pores or interstices of the cloth. The pure isolated colouring matter is, on the contrary, attacked more powerfully than the colouring matter com-bined with mordant.
  - “On account of its Chemical properties, as well as from its practical importance, the method of chloring practised by our firm has become not only unique, but also the only one capable of giving good whites upon unsoaped work, or with colours which will not stand soaping.
  - “We have communicated this statement, because for some time past we have heard the crédit of this discovery attri-buted to various printers, and we wished to shew that our establishment was the first to employ it on the large scale, and that it was the resuit of trials which occupied a considérable time before it was perfected.
  - “If we did not patent this process at the time of its discovery, it was simply because we adhered to the broad and liberal traditions of Mulhousien industry.”
  - The Chemical Section made a short report upon this paper, which was presented by Dr. Penot, and runs as follows :—
  - “ All manufacturers know how difficult it was always, and sometimes impossible, especially in winter, to obtain good whites in garancine work. It was very rarely that perfect whites could be obtained by laying out on the grass, and the serious objections of time, labour, tears by wind, stains from soot, etc., were not to be overcome. Of late years this slow and imperfect process has been replaced by a Chemical method, rapid, certain, and economical, which has effected quite a révolution in this branch of the printing business.
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- - 212
  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - Chloride of lime, which has already been of such important help in the art, is the agent employed.
  - "After dyeing in garancine the pièces are padded, with a pin roller, in a solution of chloride of lime, and then imme-diately dried over steam chests. The mordanted parts of the print do not readily absorb the solution, while the unmor-danted parts become, on the contrary, impregnated with the chloride of lime, and are bleached in a regular manner ; the same process can be employed with advantage for catechu grounds, logwood blacks, and cochineal scarlets, which could not be submitted to a bath of liquid chloride of lime without injury to the colours. This new process is, therefore, of considérable importance, and is the only one which can be used for obtaining whites on unsoaped work or work which does not stand soaping.
  - "It is a novel and important application of chlorine, added to those others which had been indicated by Berthollet and by our venerable colleague, M. Daniel Koechlin. Messrs. Georges Steinbach and Royet claim the honour of this dis-covery for their establishment, where it has been employed on the large scale since the spring of 1847. There were some doubts expressed relating to the priority of this new invention. It was known that this method of clearing with chloride of lime had extended to several Works in Alsace and other places, in conséquence of instructions supplied by M. Gustave Schwartz, of the firm of Schwartz-Huguenin. After a long discussion, in which the two parties interested took part, it was unanimously decided by the Chemical Section, including MM. Gustave Schwartz, Georges Steinbach, and Royet, that the firm of Blech, Steinbach, and Mantz was the first to employ chloring by printing for the purpose of clearing whites ; but on the other side it was acknowledged that the firm of Schwartz-Huguenin had discovered and employed the same process at very nearly the same time, and that some months later M. Gustave Schwartz communi-cated it to Ecks’, at Cernay, and Dollfus-Mieg’s, of Mulhouse, who immediately applied the System, whence it gradually spread to other works in Alsace and abroad.”
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- - 213
  - 8 C © 83 S 9 b N S § s
  - Combination of Bleaching Pozvder and Acids for Clearing.—-The following article and the criticism upon it are from the 28th volume of the “Mulhouse Bulletin,” p. 418 ; the paper which cornes first was read by M. Henri A. Koechlin, at the meeting held December 30th, 1857 :—
  - " At the présent time the chloring of garancine styles has generally replaced grassingboth in France and other countries.
  - “The chloring, with very few exceptions, is donc by pad-ding with engraved roller in chloride of lime, soda, or potash, at various strengths, from 72° 3° B., according to the en-graving of the roller and the kind of dyeing employed, the pièces being immediately submitted to the action of heat, which libérâtes a portion of the chlorine.
  - “In some establishments the pièces are dried upon the usual drying cylinders ; in this case a small padding apparatus is placed before the drying machine, composed of two rollers, one of which is engraved, and the other acting as a pressure roller. In most works the chloring is effected by the printing machine, and the drying accomplished either in hot chambers, with currents of heated air, or upon steam chests.
  - “In the heated air arrangement it frequently happens that the atmosphère is so completely saturated with humidity that the goods are with difficulty dried.
  - “This inconvenience, which causes loss of time and labour, because the speed has to be reduced, induced me in the winter of 1854 to try cold chloring, by which I obtained good results. in this process I replace the action of heat by the action of an acid ; that is, I décomposé the chloride of lime or soda by an acid, forming with it a soluble sait, the chlorine is liberated, which then acts as a bleaching agent upon the parts in contact with it.
  - “I print with two pin rollers or fine stripes, the first with the chloride of lime or soda at 72° to i° B., according to the strength of the engraving, and the second with acetic, hydro-chloric, or sulphuric acid.
  - “The quantity of acid should be calculated from the strength of the chloride employed, and the quantity of liquid which is
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- - 214 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - communicated to the cloth. One pound dry chloride of lime requires 1’2 1b. commercial acetic acid, 1’8 1b. hydrochloric acid at 20° B., and 0’8 1b. of strong sulphuric acid.
  - “The piece is delivered by the machine without drying, and is immediately passed into water and washed.
  - “To détermine the strength of the acid and water necessary for a given strength of chloride of lime it is sufficient to détermine the proportion between the quantity of acid liquid furnished by the acid roller and the bleaching liquor furnished by the chlorine roller.
  - “Taking all the circumstances into considération, this cold chloring is not more expensive than the ordinary process, for though the cost of drugs is greater, it présents the following advantages :—
  - “(i) A weaker chlorine solution suffices.
  - "(2) There is less labour.
  - “(3) It does not require a printing machine with its drying, but a simple padding apparatus with two rollers.
  - “(4) It permits the chloring of more pièces in the same time.
  - “(5) By using hydrochloric or acetic acid for the décomposition of the chloride of lime, a soluble sait of lime is produced which can be completely removed by washing, which is an advantage in case certain colours have to be blocked in afterwards.
  - “(6) The white remains purer and does not become yellow as is frequently the case in common chloring, when it is necessary to chlorine strongly, or when the piece is more strongly heated than is necessary to dry off the water which it contains.
  - “In this method of chloring the acids used must be free from iron when red or catechu colours are to be cleared, the presence of this métal turns the reds brown and darkens the catechu.”
  - The following report upon this paper was prepared by M. C. Royet, and adopted by the Chemical Section of the Society.
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- - CHLORING B Y MACHINE.
  - t —
  - " M. Henri A. Koechlin’s process of chloring garancine dyed prints consists essentially in replacing the action of heat by the action of acids. It requires a two-colour printing machine, the first pin roller gives chlorine to the piece, the second pin roller covers it with acidulated water in proportions suitable for the décomposition of the chloride of lime. After the printing, and without drying, the pièces are washed.
  - " Before proceeding to try this method of chloring I ascer-tained the proportions of liquid furnished to the cloth by each of the rollers which I used. I found the first roller supplied 15 litres of water to 300 mètres of calico, and the second only 10 litres ; these quantifies will vary as the engraving becomes used up, and should be again determined from time to time, and also when re-engraved.
  - " One litre of our bleaching powder solution at 8° B. (about Ii° Tw.) requires generally 100 grammes of hydrochloric acid at 19° B. to saturate it.
  - " I only experimented with the ordinary hydrochloric acid, acetic acid being too costly, and sulphuric acid difficult to manage, giving rise to the slightly soluble sulphate of lime, which an imperfect washing would leave in the fibres.
  - " I made 50 trials with small samples of prints, using chloride of lime at varions dilutions from 8 to 1g, with a single pin roller, and drying, and the same number of trials with two rollers, employing acid of proper strength, as indi-cated by the chloride of lime and the furnishing of the rollers.
  - “ In every case the samples chlored by the new process were inferior in the whites to those done by the old method— the greater the proportion of acid the worse the whites ap-peared.
  - “ This resuit seems surprising ; but it is known with .what slowness solutions of madder are acted upon by chlorine, as can be seen any day in the clearing becks by the old System. These becks keep their colour for several hours, though con-taining more chlorine that is necessary for their bleaching. If, then, in chloring, the décomposition of the chloride is hastened
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- - VO C
  - R k § © N © R s & X K R R C
  - so that it will be accomplished in less time than it requires to act upon the alizarine, it may happen that an excessive addition of acid will produce worse whites. A great portion of the chlorine seems to escape without acting upon the colouring matter. This explanation of the phenomenon appears to be supported by the results of all the trials made upon lengths of about half a yard.
  - “But in experimenting upon a lengthof 300 mètres, passing the cloth through the two-colour machine and rolling the pièces on themselves at once, and then afterwards taking off and washing, the whites are as good as by the dry method.
  - “ We may observe—
  - “(1) That in chloring by roller the drying has never been an obstacle, where the stoves or heated rooms were properly constructed and sufficiently ventilated.
  - " (2) That if at the présent time the chloring by engraved roller is only used exceptionally, as for steam colours, it is to avoid the cost of labour, lappings, back greys, etc.
  - “ (3) In chloring by padding, followed by drying upon a steam drum or upon Tulpin’s machine, an intelligent youth can very well manage the apparatus.
  - " (4) If it is desired to effect the chloring without drying, the action of steam can replace the use of acids. In this way chloring is carried on in several works, the pièces being padded in the bleaching liquor, then passing through a steam box furnished with guiding rollers and washed.
  - “ From a Chemical point of view, therefore, the process of M. Henri A. Koechlin has no advantages. The delicacy of the manipulation more than outweighs the economy effected by not drying ; further, we may State that this System of chloring acts particularly upon purples, which become ‘rusty,’ or ‘ foxy,’ even when only half the required proportion of acid is used. Steam colours, and other styles which do not permit of rolling up in the wet state, cannot be treated by this method.”
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- - s R
  - E U R R © s G R N
  - S © G
  - g & S E & O E 8 <1 <1 C co
  - t
  - 5
  - No. 179. Dark Grey.— Delaine.
  - 2 quarts gum water—i pint lilac standard below—4 oz. prussiate of potash—3 gills of acetate of indigo. Lilac standard is prepared from 4 quarts of logwood liquor at 30° Tw.— 8 quarts red liquor at 180 Tw.— 1% 1b. oxalic acid dissolved in 2 quarts hot water—1}4 1b. salammoniac—10 oz. acetate of copper dissolved in 2 quarts hot water. Light greys can be obtained by reducing with gum water.
  - No. 180. Pearl Grey—Delaine.
  - 372 quarts gum water—i pint lilac standard above—214 oz. yellow prussiate dissolved in i quart water—74 pint bark liquor—74 pint acetate of indigo.
  - No. 181. Cocoa Brown—Delaine.
  - A logwood solution, made by steeping 3 1b. of ground logwood for several hours in hot red liquor, is used under the name of lavender standard in the following receipt :—1 gallon cochineal liquor at 8° Tw.—4 gallons berry liquor at 120 Tw.— 24 gallons lavender standard—thicken with gum substitute and add 3 1b. alum—6 oz. cream of tartar—272 1b. tartaric acid.
  - As a general rule the numerous shades which contain all the three elementary colours considerably diluted, and which constitute the almost infinité greys, drabs, stones, etc., are seldom directly prepared from their constituents, but are obtained by mixing other colours together. Each colourist has his own System of standards for preparing the compound shades, and it cannot be said that there is any particular method which can be strongly recommended above others, at the same time it is impossible to go into the details of these colours without giving the composition of a great number of standards, which seems unnecessary.
  - * Çontinued from p. 195.
  - P
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- - 218 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 182. Blue for Grounds.— Delaine.
  - 472 1b. prussiate of potash—4 quarts hot water—472 1b. tartaric acid, mix and draw off the clear, which is to be made into 6 quarts by washing—6 1b. gum—1 72 quarts prussiate of tin—172 1b. tartaric acid—2 oz. oxalic acid.
  - No. 183. Dark Blue— Delaine or Muslin.
  - 2 1b. prussiate—1 1b. tartaric acid—1 oz. salammoniac— 2 oz. oxalic acid—1 oz. sulphuric acid—I gallon water, hot; mix, dissolve and let settle ; take the clear only—i gallon clear liquor from the preceding—2 1b. starch—1 pint tin pulp.
  - No. 184. Dark Blue—Delaine.
  - 672 gallons water—14 1b. starch—3 1b. salammoniac ; boil and cool to 150° F., and add 33 1b. tartaric acid—27 1b. ground oxalic acid—6 gallons tin pulp ; mix well and add 20 1b. yellow prussiate—10 1b. red prussiate.
  - No. 185. Dark Blue—Delaine.
  - 9 gallons water—17 1b. salammoniac—14 1b. starch; boil and add 20 1b. tartaric acid—3 1b. oxalic acid—7 gallons tin pulp ; mix well and add 13 1b. yellow prussiate—672 1b. red prussiate.
  - No. 186. Gum Blue.
  - 67 gallons soluble gum water, hot—3 1b. salammoniac— 30 1b. tartaric acid—4 1b. oxalic acid—6 gallons tin pulp— 18 1b. yellow prussiate—10 1b. red prussiate—8 1b. extract of indigo.
  - No. 187. Dark Blue—Delaine.
  - I gallon water—2 1b. starch ; boil well and add 10 oz. salammoniac—2 1b. 10 oz. yellow prussiate—1 1b. 5 oz. red prussiate—3 1b. tartaric acid—1 gallon tin pulp.
  - No. 188. Crimson.—Delaine.
  - Ammoniacal cochineal liquor made as follows :—50 1b. cochineal—60 1b. strong ammonia ; steep 24 hours, then add 672 gallons boiling water; stir and strain, pressing out the liquid ; wash the grains with 67 gallons more of hot water, and strain and press ; make up the liquor to 19 gallons. Keep the liquor hot in a water bath with stirring to expel
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- - COLLECTED RECEIPTS. 219
  - some of the excess of ammonia, then thicken with dry gum senegal, and add 16 1b. alum—4 1b. tartaric acid.
  - No. 189. Pink— Delaine.
  - Use the same ammoniacal cochineal as in the last receipt, expel the free ammonia rather more completely than is neces-sary for crimson, thicken with dry gum, and add 14 1b. alum—14 1b. cream of tartar—1 1b. oxalic acid ; reduce to depth required by gum water.
  - No. 190. Pink Standard—Delaine.
  - 11 1b. cochineal—22 1b. ammonia—472 gallons water— 174 1b. cream of tartar ; boil for 40 minutes, strain and add 8 oz. alum per gallon and thicken with gum senegal.
  - No. 191. Red—Delaine.
  - 6 pints cochineal liquor at 7° Tw.—I pint berry liquor at 12° Tw.—10 oz. starch ; boil and add 372 oz. oxalic acid— 372 oz. tin crystals. For a darker red use the cochineal liquor stronger.
  - No. 192. Dark Red.—Delaine.
  - 16 gallons cochineal liquor at 160 Tw.—35 1b. starch—3 1b. oil or fat—boil well and cool with stirring ; when at 1500 F. add 7 1b. crystals of tin—7 1b. oxalic acid.
  - No. 193. Scarlet.—Delaine.
  - The red No. 191 is actually a scarlet on account of the berry liquor ; but better scarlets can be made upon the basis of the No. 192 colour, though more expensive ; not more than one part of berry liquor for twenty parts of cochineal should be used with a colour containing so much free acid unless a decidedly yellow shade is aimed at.
  - No. 194. Green—Delaine.
  - Green colours are mixtures of blue and yellow, and admit of great variety in modes of préparation, the most usual way being to have two or more standard green colours, bluish and yellowish, and mixing these in the proportions required for the shade wanted. The following examples are sufficient for illustration :—9 gallons berry liquor at 160 Tw.—70 1b. soluble gum—dissolve and add 1172 1b. alum—572 1b. oxalic
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- - 220 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - acid—4 gallons red liquor at i8° Tw.—5 gallons soluble gum water—30 1b. yellow prussiate—4 gallons extract of indigo— 74 gallon acetic acid. This may be called a gum green ; a paste green may be prepared as follows :—4 gallons berry liquor at 160 Tw.—5 gallons water—30 1b. starch, boil and add 6 1b. alum—3 1b. oxalic acid—2 gallons red liquor at 18° Tw.—15 1b. yellow prussiate—2 gallons indigo extract.
  - No. 195. Dark Green— Delaine.
  - I gallon water—7 gallons bark liquor at 180 Tw.—13 1b. starch—4 1b. gum substitute—5 1b. alum—1 1b. crystals of tin—14 1b. tartaric acid—14 1b. prussiate of potash—i 1b. oxalic acid in I quart hot water—72 gallon extract of indigo.
  - No. 196. Dark Green—Delaine.
  - 7 quarts bark liquor at 180 Tw.—1 quart red liquor at 18° Tw.—3 1b. starch—2 1b. tin pulp—3 1b. tartaric acid—3 1b. prussiate of potash—4 oz. oxalic acid in i pint hot water—i quart extract of indigo.
  - No. 197. Light Green.—Delaine.
  - 6 pints berry liquor at 100 Tw.—8 oz. alum—2 1b. gum substitute, boil and add i 1b. extract of indigo, and when cold 6 pints of the following blue part :—7 1b. yellow prussiate—2 1b. alum—12 oz. oxalic acid—2 gallons hot water, mix. In a separate vessel mix very well 72 pint of muriate of tin at 120° Tw. with two gallons gum water, and add to the prussiate liquor, stirring very well.
  - No. 198. Buff.—Delaine.
  - 3}4 gallons berry liquor at 6° Tw.—274 gallons cochineal liquor at 8° Tw.—172 gallons red liquor at 180 Tw.—4 1b. alum—2 1b. oxalic acid. This standard is to be mixed with senegal or substitute gum water, according to shade required, say i of standard to 4 or 6 of gum water.
  - No. 199. Yellow—Delaine.
  - 18 gallons berry liquor at 16° Tw.—10 1b. crystals of tin, to which add gradually 374 1b. soda crystals ; when the effer-vesence is over mix with 10 1b. starch and boil well,
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- - DE VINANT ON DYEING, ETC. 221
  - No. 200. Orange— Delaine.
  - Orange colours are made from yellow and red in different proportions, according to the depth and hue required ; equal proportions may be employed for dark orange, and as much as 20 parts of yellow to i part of red for a yellow orange. The red No. 192 may be used.
  - 4. M. Michel de Vinant on Dyeing, Printing, and Bleaching*
  - M. De Vinant gives other discharges of the same nature. It may be observed here that many of the effects obtained some thirty or forty years ago upon madder colours by various after treatments of discharging and dyeing in other materials to produce various effects were relinquished because they could be tolerably well imitated with cheaper dyestuffs, though not of course of so permanent a nature. The con-tinually increasing price of madder was one reason why it could no longer be used so freely in combinations with styles which were not of the first class nor commanding the best price. But madder now in the shape of alizarine is as cheap as ever it was, and it might not be amiss that attention should be directed to the getting up of some modifications of the obsolète styles in which madder entered as a conspicuous element. Turkey red, for example, can now be dyed at a price which would probably make it available for some of the discharge styles formerly in vogue. The following are illustrations of the composition of the old discharges for Turkey red taken from De Vinant ; most of them it will be observed are only fitted for block printing, but the composition and thickening could be easily modified to suit roller printing.
  - Discharge Black on Turkey Red.—74 1b. Prussian blue No.
  - * Continued from vol. iv., p. 187.
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- - 222
  - THE TEXTILE COLOUR1ST.
  - 4 below—I 1b. acetic acid—i oz. nitric acid; leave together twenty-four hours, and grind well ; add 74 1b. water—74 1b. starch ; boil, and when cold add a few drops of muriate of tin. It will be observed that this is not a black at all, it is simply a spirit blue, which, being printed on the red and not having sufficient acid to give it discharging powers, gives rise to what may pass for a black. At présent aniline black is used as a black in the discharge style, and also some logwood blacks, notably the so-called spermaceti black, which, from its fatty character, is for a time capable of keeping ont the chloride of lime.
  - Prussian Blue No. 4.—i 1b. Berlin or Chinese blue—34 1b. hydrochloric acid ; heat to dissolve, then precipitate by a large quantity of water and filter down to a thick paste.
  - White Discharge on Turkey Red.—i gallon water—714 1b. gum ; dissolve and add 1}4 1b. tartaric acid and 774 1b. pipeclay.
  - Another White Discharge.—134 gallons water—334 1b. gum senegal—1}4 1b. tartaric acid—174 to 2 1b. oxalic acid—10 1b. pipeclay—2}4 1b. muriate of tin.
  - Blue Discharge on Turkey Red.—134 gallons of water thickened with salep or tragacanth—5 1b. tartaric acid—214 1b. oxalic acid—134 1b. Prussian blue No. 4—1 1b. muriate of tin.
  - Yello'w Discharge on Turkey Red.—2 gallons water—334 1b. starch—20 1b. nitrate of lead—272 1b. tartaric acid. After discharging, the yellow to be raised in bichromate of potash slightly acidulated with acetic acid.
  - All these colours are to be discharged by means of bleach-ing powder. They require three or four minutes in a tolerably strong liquor containing the bottoms, and are then passed into water and washed.
  - Discharge for Light Purple Mordant.—2 gallons lime juice at 172° Tw.—6 oz. bisulphate of potash. Thicken with 10 1b. gum substitute at 100° F.
  - Discharge for Blacks.—2 gallons lime juice at 10° Tw.—
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- - 223
  - k F, C N Q Po 8 ( < A. x 3 Sy S S 9
  - 6 oz. tartaric acid—6 oz. bisulphate of potash. Thicken with 10 1b. gum substitute.
  - These discharges are to be dried in a hot room, and washed off twenty-four hours afterwards in cow dung with chalk.
  - Catechu Brown Resist for Madder and Garancine Styles.— 4 gallons lime juice at 30° Tw.—35 1b. gum—4 gallons catechu liquor at 22° Tw.—2 1b. acetate of copper—I 1b. salammoniac —5 1b. arseniate of potash. Dissolve at a gentle heat and strain.
  - Resist for Catechu.-—(Tartrate of Chromium).—6 1b. bichromate of potash—i gallon boiling water, add by degrees 9 1b. tartaric acid dissolved in 8 1b. water—1}4 gallons water hot, 272 1b. arseniate of potash—4 1b. potash. Dissolve separately, mix the two liquids, and thicken with gum substitute (if for black add pipeclay), and add 4 1b. olive oil.
  - Passing on from this section our author gives a number of various colours and processes which seem thrown together without any order or System. We select receipts for some colours which have become nearly forgotten from disuse ; no one knows when some of them may be revived in new styles, and it is well to preserve an account of them. The follow-ing refer to some applications of indigo :—
  - Fast Green for Shirtings.—3 gallons of water—5 1b. white starch, boil and add 3 gallons of water containing 20 1b. nitrate of lead thickened with 30 1b. of starch gum ; when cold add 5 gallons of precipitated blue below,and 5 ib.syrup of sugar or molasses. Print the colour the same day it is made, and as soon after as practicable fix in a cistern provided with rollers and containing milk of lime, wash and wince in cold and weak solution of bleaching powder; wash well and then chrome to bring up the yellow part.
  - Precipitated Blue.—15 1b. caustic soda at 40° Tw.— 772 1b. ground indigo in pulp containing 272. 1b. of dry indigo; add gradually 334 1b. tin crystals, heat to 140° F., cool and put into a vessel, then precipitate with 772 1b. muriatic acid mixed with I}4 1b. muriate of tin; filter and drain, wash with 74 gallon water mixed with 74 1b. molasses. Repeat the wash-
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- - 224
  - THE TEXTILE CO LO URL ST.
  - ing three times, and keep the pasty mass covered up out of contact with the air. This colour should only be prepared as it is wanted, being injured by keeping.
  - Fast Green with Quercitron Yellow.—The indigo pulp is prepared by grinding 27 1b. indigo with 6}4 1b. water. The colour is made from i gallon caustic liquor at 22° Tw.— 1)4 1b. potash—334 1b. slacked lime in the State of powder, which has been passed through a fine sieve—334 1b. of the indigo pulp— 1}4 1b. orpiment—334 1b. aluminate of soda. Heat to 100° F. for an hour, and thicken with starch gum (British gum). Two hours after printing pass in lime and water as for the preceding colour; wash well, and dye in quercitron bark, with addition of size to preserve the whites. If the whites are not good after dyeing soap lightly.
  - Aheminate of Soda for above.—5 1b. alum—27 gallons water ; dissolve and precipitate with i gallon of caustic soda at 26° Tw., collect the precipitate and wash it three times with 15 gallons of water, drain and dissolve in i gallon caustic alkali at 26° Tw. Use the aluminate at 26° Tw.
  - Another Fast Green.—Proceed as in the last receipt but one so far as dissolving the indigo, and filter the liquid; in the warm liquor dissolve 5 1b. nitrate of lead and 10 1b. starch gum, heat up to about 100° and add 72 gallon wood acid or acetic acid at 110 Tw., and 72 gallon acetate of tin at 160 Tw. ; strain, print soon afterwards, raise in lime, and afterwards in chrome for the yellow. The acetate of tin is prepared by dissolving paste of oxide of tin precipitated from sait of tin by carbonate of soda.
  - Fast Blue for Shirtings.—In an iron boiler, five times the size required to hold the quantity of colour operated upon, take 372 gallons of caustic soda at 40° Tw., add 3}4 1b. of the paste of oxide of tin, heat to 1200 F., stirring with a wooden spatula, and gradually mix about 2 1b. ground indigo ; keep stirred for several hours and then cover up the boiler. Twelve or fifteen hours afterwards, heat up to 120° F., and add by degrees 772 1b. oxalic acid dissolved in a gallon of boiling water, stir well and leave at rest for two or three hours, covering the liquor up to keep it warm ; draw of 2
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  - gallons of the still warm yellow liquid and add to the rest 1 7 gallons gum water, strain through a fine sieve, print, fix in lime the same day as printed, and oxidize but without chroming.
  - Another Fast Blue.—Mix i part of the precipitate blue with 72 part of protonitrate of iron, and thicken with dry gum. The protonitrate of iron is made by mixing equal parts of sulphate of iron (green copperas) and nitrate of lead, and taking the clear. After printing hang twelve hours in a warm room, then pass in a strong lime vat, wash, and sour ; this colour may be lightly soaped. In rinsing in lime there will probably be formed a blue scum floating on the surface of the liquor, this must be removed or kept from contact with the cloth, as it will give stains. If the colour " marks off” in the lime, it is a sign that it has not been hung long enough.
  - Aniline Blue.—Jeannolles’ patent for substituting aniline for indigo in dyeing fibres of vegetable or animal origin, woven or unwoven, is abstracted in the Bulletin of the Chemical Society of Paris for October 5th, 1877, as follows :— The principle of the process is the oxidation of aniline salts in very weak solutions, the materials to be dyed being présent. The proportions for 100 1b. of cotton are given as
  - Aniline ........................ 5 1b.
  - Muriatic acid................... 3 1b.
  - Sulphuric acid ................ 12 1b.
  - Bichromate of potash ........... 5 1b.
  - The muriate of aniline is first formed by mixing the aniline and muriatic acid, the bichromate is dissolved separately and the whole diluted with cold water to about 100 gallons.
  - The cotton is worked in the liquor for about an hour, then washed, and passed into a slightly alkaline bath heated to 100° F. The dyed colour is directed to be finally topped with ordinary aniline blue, or preferably by a short dipping in a weak indigo vat.
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST
  - 5. A bridgments of Complété Spécifications of Patents Recently Published.
  - A.D. 1877, February 20th.—No. 698.
  - Alston, John Stirling, and Reid, William. "Improve-ments in Apparatus to be used in connection with varions Processes of Treating Yarns with Liquids.”
  - The following is the provisional spécification of the patent; the full spécification refers to three sheets of drawings accom-panying ; it is published at 8d.
  - “This invention has for its object the constructing and arranging of apparatus for treating yarns with liquids in an improved manner, and so that the yarns may be subjected to less handling and less risk of injury than in the apparatus ordinarily used for the same purposes.
  - “The présent invention is also to a certain extent an improvement on or addition to that described in the Spécification of Letters Patent obtained by William Reid, one of the présent applicants, and dated 23 September 1875 (No. 3319).
  - “The apparatus for expressing liquids from yarns, described in the said earlier spécification, has been found to be practi-cally successful and useful in many applications, and may be advantageously combined with some of the improved apparatus constituting the présent invention; but in some applications it is believed that the improved liquid expressing apparatus, hereafter described, will be found more convenient and advantageous.
  - “In one modification of liquid expressing apparatus comprised in the présent invention there is a stationary fiat plate, covered or coated with blanket, felt, rubber, or other suitable material, and on this plate several hanks of saturated yarn distended by two rods are laid. A movable upper or pressing plate working in or on guides, and having its under side coated with rubber or other suitable material, is arranged over the stationary plate, and is brought down by means of revolving cranks, eccentrics, or cams, or by means of levers or
- p.226 - vue 239/284
- - STIRLING FOR TREATING YARNS, ETC. 227
  - of hydraulic or steam cylinders, so as to exert on the yarns the pressure necessary for expressing the liquid. An arrangement of endless chains similar to that described in the earlier spécification, herein-before referred to, is to be employed for conveying the yarns to and laying them on the stationary plate, and for conveying them away therefrom; and such chains may be moved by hand, or a suitable intermittent motion may be imparted to them from an eccentric or crank on one of the revolving shafts of the machine.
  - “In a second modification, the upper or pressing plate is the same as in the first modification ; but the lower plate is made movable horizontally, and receives the yarns upon it when it is moved out from under the upper or pressing plate. In both modifications the plates may be curved instead of fiat if found préférable.
  - “In a modification of yarn saturating apparatus which will work automatically and conveniently in combination with the second modification of liquid expressing apparatus herein-before described, and which is advantageously adapted for immersing and working yarns in dyeing or other liquids. The tank or vessel is by preference of a nearly semi-cylindrical form, and has working in connection with it a wheel fitted with two sets of spokes or arms, and mounted on a horizontal shaft, situated by preference a little above the level of the liquid in the tank. On each arm there are two hooks placed at a distance apart, suited to the length of the hanks of yarn, and as each pair of arms cornes round and downwards at one side of the tank, the attendant worker places on them several hanks of yarn. The hanks are distended on two rods, and are placed on the wheel by engaging the rods on the hooks on the wheel arms, the rods being parallel to the shaft, and the hanks being held radially.
  - “Alternate forward and backward motions are given to the wheel by any suitable gearing, the forward motions being greater than the backward motions, so that whilst the alternate motions cause the yarn to be well worked in the liquid, the quantity on each pair of wheel arms is gradually moved round through the liquid to the side opposite that at
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- - 228
  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - which it was put on the wheel. The lower plate of the liquid expressing arms is moved under a quantity of yarn hanks, just as the forward motion of the wheel arms lifts them above the level of the plate, and then the next backward movement of the wheel arms lowers the hanks with their rods upon the plate, the rods becoming disengaged from the hooks on the wheel arms, and the plate being moved away from the wheel before the arms rise again.
  - "After the lot of yarns have been pressed, they are prevented from returning with the lower plate by the further rod being held so that the plate moves out from under the hanks, and allows them to fall upon rails or other supports, from which they can be removed by hand or by endless chains or by other suitable mechanism.
  - “In a second modification of yarn saturing apparatus which may be more suitable than the first for some dyeing or similar processes a rectangular tank is employed, and the yarn hanks are hung on transverse horizontal rods which are moved in succession from one end of the tank to the other by endless chains. The rods have toothed or plain wheels on one or both of their ends, so as to receive rotatory motion from fixed or reciprocating racks or bars at the sides of the tank; and the rods have boards or paddles fixed to them at the parts on which the hanks hang, such boards or paddles projecting to one side of the rods so as to have a swaying and increased action in turning over the yarn hanks.
  - “In a third modification of yarn saturating apparatus suitable for some dyeing or similar processes, the hanks of yarn are hung on rods having pinions on their ends, as in the third modification, but the rods and pinions are carried by longitudinal frames which have vertical bars fixed to them, and fitted to work in vertical guides fixed to the side of the tank. The frames carrying the rods are raised and lowered by two revolving shafts, having each two cranks, connecting rods from which are jointed to blocks fitted in guides fixed to the frames. When the frames descend they corne to rest on stops before the cranks reach their lowest positions, and remain stationary whilst the cranks move through the lower
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  - parts of their circuits, the blocks then moving down and up again in their guides. The descent of the frames causes the yarn hanks to be lowered or dipped into the dye or other liquid, and the hanks remain so for a short time until the frames are again raised. Whilst the frames are lifted up with the hanks entirely or for the most part out of the liquid the rods carrying the hanks are turned so as to change the positions of the hanks on them by gearing acting on the pinions. Two of the pinions at the middle of the sériés are in gear with a spur wheel, carried by the frame, and.this spur wheel is acted on at the proper time by a toothed segment carried by a continuously revolving wheel. The toothed segment is so placed that the rods are turned and the hanks moved round only when they are raised, more or less, out of the liquid, and when they are less liable to become entangled. Instead of employing a toothed segment and toothed wheels the motion may be imparted frictionally.
  - “Another modification of apparatus comprised in this invention is for washing the hanks’ of yarn, and in it two endless chains are arranged to carry rods or rollers with the hanks on them through a long tank or trough. The two endless chains are at one side of the trough and the rollers or rods are over hung from them, so that the hanks can be put rapidly on and off them over their free ends. Rollers are fitted at regular intervals along the two chains, and wheels or pinions are fixed on the spindles of the rollers between the chains to dérivé motion from guide grooves or racks on the upper edge of the tank side as they are drawn along. The chains are distended and moved by sprocket wheels on horizontal shafts at the opposite ends of the tank, and the yarn hanks are entered at one end and carried down into and through the washing water to the other end of the tank, where they are raised out of the tank and carried back along the upper or return course of the chains. At the point where each roller is connected to the chains there is also jointed thereto a pendent lever having a rod or roller at its lower end, and on each such lower rod or roller are put the lower parts of the hanks that are on the next preceding upper roller, so
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - that the hanks are carried through the water in inclined or diagonal positions, the lower parts being drawn in advance. Each pendent lever is formed with a short arm extending upwards from the point of attachment to the chains, and as each pendent lever approaches the entering end of the tank its upper arm encounters a stationary pin which 'causes the lower end to move forward, and so shorten the distance between the lower roller or rod and the preceding upper roller carrying the same hanks. This facilitâtes the removal of the washed hanks and the putting on of fresh hanks. The endless chains are moved intermittently, which not only gives time for changing the hanks but also renders the washing action more efficient. The liquid expressing apparatus herein-before described may be modified by substituting for the upper plate a roller to be moved over the lower plate, or to have the lower plate moved under it, this constituting a modification intermediate between those herein-before described and that described in the earlier spécification herein-before referred to. In some modifications of the liquid expressing apparatus it will be more convenient to make the lower piece move upwards to give the pressure, instead of the upper piece moving downwards, as herein-before described.”
  - The claims which conclude the complété spécification are as follows:—
  - (1) “The expressing of liquids from yarns by pressing them between plates arranged and worked substantially as herein-before described.
  - (2) The combination of a plate and a roller, arranged substantially as herein-before described, for expressing liquids from yarns.
  - (3) The combination of a pair of plates for expressing liquids from yarns with endless chains for placing the yarns between the plates and removing them thence, substantially as herein-before described.
  - (4) The arrangement of a pair of plates for expressing liquids from yarns, wherein a horizontal movement of one plate is made to admit of the yarns being conveniently laid on the lower plate, substantially as herein-before described.
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- - JOHNSTON FOR DYEING, ETC., YARNS. 231
  - (5) The combination of apparatus for saturating yarns and expressing liquid therefrom, herein-before described with reference to Figures 3 to 6 of the accompanying drawings.
  - (6) The combination of apparatus for saturating yarns, wherein, in a nearly semi-cylindrical vessel, a wheel with radial arms fitted for carrying rods which hold the hanks in radial positions is made to rotate with alternate short back-ward and longer forward movements, substantially as herein-before described.
  - (7) The imparting to yarn saturating or washing apparatus the alternate short backward and longer forward movements derived from a crank or eccentric pin on a pinion which is made to roll at a uniform rate around a fixed wheel, substantially as herein-before described.
  - (8) The combination of apparatus for saturating yarns, herein-before described with reference to Figures 7 and 8 of the accompanying drawings.
  - (9) The combination of apparatus for saturating yarns, herein-before described with reference to Figures 12 to 14 of the accompanying drawings.
  - (10) The arranging of apparatus for saturating yarns, so as to lower the yarns and hold them in the dyeing or other liquid, and alternately therewith raise them out of the liquid and change their positions by turning the rollers carrying them, substantially in the manner herein-before described.
  - (11) The arranging or combining together of parts of apparatus for washing yarns, substantially in the manner herein-before described with reference to Figures 10 and 11 of the accompanying drawings.”
  - A.D. 1877, March 2nd.-No. 849.
  - Johnston, Francis. "Improvements in Dyeing, Bleaching, or Printing of Cotton or other Yarns other than from the Hank or Chain, and in Apparatus for Effecting the same.” ( This invention received provisional protection only.)
  - “This invention relates to an improved apparatus for a more economical and efficient mode of dyeing, printing, and bleaching of cotton or other yarns preparatory to weaving.
  - "Instead of dyeing, printing, and bleaching of cotton or
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  - other yarns in the hank or chain the yarns are wound on to a yarn beam or beams, technically called ‘warper’s beam,’ or équivalent or équivalents ; the said yarn (or ‘warper's') beam or beams, or équivalent or équivalents, are placed on suitable bearers or équivalents; the said yarns are then wound on to another beam or beams, or équivalent or équivalents, at the same time passing over or under or under and over suitable rollers or équivalents placed into a vat or vats, or équivalent or équivalents, containing dyeing, printing, or bleaching liquid, and between squeezing rollers or équivalents placed in the said vat or vats or équivalents, or at any other convenient part of the said vat or vats, or équivalent or équivalents, or at any convenient part of the said apparatus, and each thread of the yarns when dried passes through guides or équivalents, then passing between suitable rollers or équivalents, if neces-sary, then on to the winding-on or ‘warper's' beam or beams, or équivalent or équivalents. Now if a darker shade is required the process is repeated, after which the yarns are ready for sizing or other processes necessary preparatory to weaving; and further, if necessary, I connect an apparatus for regu-lating the tension of the yarns during the process of dyeing, printing, and bleaching, or any other process necessary before sizing such yarns, which I accomplish by fixing a small friction pulley or équivalent on the end of the axle of the winding-on shaft or at any other convenient part of the winding-on apparatus, and another on the end of the squeezing roller or rollers, or équivalent or équivalents, or placed at any other part or parts of the apparatus driven by the winding-on shaft or équivalent by means of a strap, band, or any other équivalent or équivalents thereof.”
  - A.D. 1877, March 3rd—No. 854.
  - TRACY, JOHN H ART. "Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Plaiting or Folding Fabrics.” ( This invention received provisional protection only.)
  - “Machines constructed according to this invention are fitted with the following principal working or operating parts for effecting the plaiting or folding of fabrics, viz., a box or hollow table heated, by preference, by gas jets; secondly, a
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  - presser plate, the under surface of which is somewhat rough, for the purpose of serving as a feed appliance, such plate rising and falling on the material passing under it, and on or over the aforesaid box or hollow table; thirdly, a back folding knife, which has a downward, a backward receding, and a forward slanting rising motion; and, fourthly, a front folding knife, which has an oscillating back and forward motion and up and down motion against the back folding knife.
  - “The material to be folded or plaited passes over the front knife, over the back edge of it, round the front edge of the back knife, and between the presser plate and the box or table, passing off straight from the latter, and not as now usually done in some plaiting machines dropping down through a hole in the table, whereby through the weight of the fabric the just formed pleats are partly opened. The aforesaid operating parts of the machine are worked by suitable cam or eccentric appliances, which I place above the aforesaid operating parts, so that the plaited material can freely pass off in a horizontal direction, being supported to any required distance by a table or plate in continuation of the hot box.
  - “The width of the plates or folds may be regulated by adjusting the stroke of the presser plate and front knife as required.
  - “The back knife may be worked by bell-crank levers actuated by cams. The presser plate may be similarly actuated, and from cams on the same shaft. The front knife may be actuated from another cam shaft, which is driven by bevil gearing from the main shaft.
  - “The action of the operating parts of the machine is as follows:—The back knife goes down on the material, the front knife recedes, rises and then advances, carrying the material against and over the back knife, forming a pleat. The back knife then recedes from under the front knife and rises forward in a slanting direction; the first knife is then made to drop and press the fabric on to the table. The presser plate then rises, thus releasing the fabric beneath it; it then goes forward, and is then pressed down on the pleated
  - Q
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  - fabric again. The front knife is then withdrawn again, and the presser plate moves back, carrying the pleated fabric with it; this presser plate thus serves as a feed appliance.”
  - A.D. 1877, Mardi 3rd-No. 859.
  - Wilson, John, and Cochrane, William. "Improvements in Hot Pressing Textile Fabrics, and in the Machinery or Apparatus Employed therefor.”
  - . The following is the provisional spécification of the patent ; the complété spécification refers to two sheets of drawings accompanying ; it is published at 6d.
  - “This invention, which relates to improvements in hot pressing textile fabrics, has for its object to render hot pressing a continuons operation, and to diminish the labour and time at présent occupied in hot pressing by stationary hydraulic presses.
  - “The machinery constituting the invention consists of a framing in which is carried the cylinder or drum, by the aid of which and the other parts herein-after descrided the hot pressing is effected.
  - “The cylinder or drum is rotated by means of a spur wheel at one end driven by a spur pinion actuated by a belt or otherwise, and the cylinder or drum is heated either by a stationary fire, but preferably by the burning of a mixture of air and gas within it, or it may be otherwise heated with or by a blast of heated air. The framing is provided with any required number of hydraulic cylinders, by preference four, which are placed therein équidistant and vertically to the axis of the cylinder or drum.
  - “The plunger or ram in each cylinder act upon a slide carried in the framing and so shaped as to hold several small rollers which, by the action of the hydraulic rams, are forced with any required degree of pressure against the cylinder or drum. In this manner pressure is produced round the whole surface of the cylinder or drum, and as the hydraulic cylinders are opposite one another and of equal bore the pressure is balanced at all points. Two webs of paper are passed in between the cylinder or drum and the small pressure rollers which surround it. These may either be in the form of
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  - endless belts or of sufficient length to correspond without break to the length of fabric to be hot pressed. The fabric to be hot pressed is passed in between the webs of paper and continuously carried through the machine with them until sufficiently hot pressed.
  - "Under a modified form of the machine, the main cylinder or drum may be dispensed with and a succession of heated rollers pressed together, arranged either horizontally or other-wise substituted. Through these sets of rollers the webs of paper and cloth to be finished are led.”
  - The claims of the patentées as set forth in the complété spécification are as follows:
  - " First. Of a large central roller or cylinder surrounded with smaller rollers or cylinders.
  - “Or, Second. Of a pair or sériés of pairs of parallel sets of rollers or cylinders, the rollers in each case being heated and forced together with the degree of pressure requisite for the hot pressing or finishing operations, and between which rollers the cloth to be hot pressed or finished is continuously passed, being laid within two endless sheets of presssing paper or their équivalent, substantially as herein-before described and shewn upon the two accompanying sheets of drawings.”
  - A.D. 1877, Mardi 10th.-No. 964.
  - Byers, Archibald Stewart. " Improvements in Scouring, Bleaching, and Dyeing Yarns, and in the Machinery or Appa-ratus employed therefor.” ( This invention receivedprovisional protection only.)
  - " This invention has reference to the scouring or washing, bleaching, and dyeing of woollen, cotton, linen, or other yarns or threads in hanks, linked together as a ‘ chain,’ or in long lengths or webs ; and to a new or improved general construction or arrangement of machine or mechanism for so doing, in a quicker and better manner, with less strain and wear or fatigue to the fibre or texture, which is of great importance in the said treatment of some of the finer and softer classes of these yarns. And the nature of the invention, or construction of the machine, or arrangement of mechanism and mode of working the same and of treating the yarn therein consist all
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- - 236 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - as follows :—In this machine, as in others of the same class, the liquid or dye box or cistern is made of strong wood, slate, or métal lined or not, as required, to resist the action of the liquids employed, and made of about the usual size in width and depth (as three feet by four feet respectively), open at the top, and set or fixed on longitudinal scantling or transverse bearers as a sole above the floor.
  - " By these improvements, however, the yarn guiding and drawing rollers are mounted longitudinally in bush bearings within and above the cistern, having the yarn traversed over them in a séries of spiral coils transversely, so that the boxes and rollers do not require to be so long as heretofore (three feet or so being found sufficient) ; but for the convenience of making and to give stability and steadiness when at work they are made duplex, or of sufficient length to make two cisterns, with a division end in the centre of them, each cistern having its own set of rollers driven separately, as a double machine, convenient for putting the yarns through them consecutively to repeat the same treatment, or as a first and second further or different sequential treatment, before removal for finishing by other machines or processes. Three cast-iron or other frames are secured, one to each outer and central dividing end of the cistern, and projecting up from the middle, stayed at the top by a tie bar, and fitted with central bush bearings and slots above for carrying the journals of the shafts of the large main driving or drawing rollers just a little above the top of the cistern, with those of the loose pressing rollers resting and rolling above the main rollers by their own weight, or with weighted levers fitted and resting on their bushes.
  - “Each of the main rollers is preferably driven separately by a fast and loose pulley mounted on the outer end of its shaft, through an open or cross band or belt passed from a pulley on any adjacent motive-power transmitting shaft or engine ; each being thus quite self-contained, and fitted with a belt-shifting fork lever. Guide rollers are fitted to revolve loosely along near the bottom and two sides of each cistern in bush bearings secured to its inside ends, with a similar roller some little distance higher in the centre between the former, made
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- - B VERS: BLEACHING, ETC., YARNS. 237 movable by its bushes and levers to give any desired stretch to the coils of yarn.
  - " The long chain of yarn (in warp, or attached together by loose loops of twine when in hanks) is fed in, preferably, at the adjacent ends of each machine through a newor improved frame of undulating tension pins or ‘ pace ’ rollers, over and under as many of these pins or rollers as will give the desired stretch or tension to the yarn in passing into and through the machine, from which it passes through a usual porcelain guide eye,also mounted atthis end soas to lead the yarn in between the main driving roller and the loose pressing roller above it, down and round the small guide roller at the bottom and off side of the cistern, and up over the lower middle guide roller, down and under the guide roller at the bottom and near side of the cistern, then up over the main driving roller, and again through between it and the pressing roller above ; and so on for as many times or coils, spirally, as will suffice for the par-ticular kind of yarn and work in hand (from eight to twelve times, answering for the size of machine described), each turn or coil being kept separate by a longitudinal bar fixed below one or both sides of the main roller, with a regular divided line of separating pins or rollers projecting out through the line or plane of the yarn. In passing between the lower side rollers and main roller, the yarn is finally lead off over the upper outer end of the top roller, through, below a small india-rubber covered pressing roller, carried on loose lever arms oscillating on the upper stay,or sliding without levers in guides on the end frame or other équivalent, to slightly press the liquid out of the yarn before leaving the machine through its leading-off porcelain eye mounted at that end, assisted by a small drawing-off winch. Each cistern is fitted with the usual inlet and discharge liquid taps and pipes, or couplings and hose ; and also with heating rose steam pipe along the bottom inside, with controlling tap or valve outside.
  - " For carrying the chain of hanks of yarn from the delivery end of one machine and cistern to the inlet end of the other, when this is desired, an endless travelling web of strong blanket cloth or other équivalent is mounted on two end and
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - intermediate guide rollers, carried in a portable rectangular, inclined, or horizontal frame set or fitted on the floor at the side of the machine, where it will receive the yarn from the delivery end or winch of the first machine loosely on the top of its back or lower end, and convey or carry it to the other or upper end, where it will be fed in through the improved tension frame of undulating pins or rollers and inlet porcelain eye ; then round the rollers and through the cistern of the second machine, all otherwise in an undulating or spiral coil, substantially as described in reference to the first machine, and from which it is led off at the outer end into removing vessels, to be further treated or finished.
  - " The endless carrying web or blanket is driven by a belt or band passed over a pulley on the end of one of its driving rollers, from a pulley on one of the spindles of the main rollers, or on an axis driven by it ; and while the chain of hanks is being traversed over the top of this travelling web, the attendants get time to shift or turn the hanks or their twine or other cord attachment to a fresh place, when this is considered necessary or advisable to prevent injurious mark-ings across the hanks.”
  - A. D. 1877, March 13th.-No. 1005.
  - Sumner, William. "Improvements in Apparatus for Drying Yarn, Woven Fabrics, and other Materials.” (A communication from Tulpin Brothers, of Rouen.)
  - “This improved apparatus may be used for drying warp yarns after they have been sized in the ordinary sizing machine ; or for drying woven fabrics or paper, or any other substance or material, and it consists of any convenient number of steam chests placed either horizontally, vertically, or diagonally, between which the yarn or other material is caused to travel slowly, being guided over rollers placed near the ends of the chests, the spaces between the chests forming any number of compartments, according to the nature of the material to be dried and the degree of drying required.
  - “The chests are all supplied with steam from a main pipe, and another pipe is provided to carry off the water of condensation; a safety Valve is also applied to the supply
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  - pipe. A current of air is forced or drawn through the spaces between the steam chests to evaporate and carry off the moisture, and this current of air is produced by a fan, or by a steam jet or other équivalent means.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification; the complété spécification has one sheet of drawings and is published at 6d. The claim is worded as follows:—
  - “The improved drying apparatus described, consisting of any convenient number of steam chests surrounded by a box, through which currents of air are forced or drawn by a fan or other équivalent.”
  - A.D. 1877, March 14th.-No. 1015.
  - Jamieson, Edward, and Collins, Henry. " Improve-ments in and Apparatus for Shrinking Textile Fabrics.”
  - “The object of this invention is the more effectuai shrinking of woollen, cotton, linen, and other textile fabrics, whereby the same shall be less liable to shrink after being made up into garments than when treated in the ordinary manner.
  - " Now this invention consists in submitting such fabrics in the piece to the action of steam in such a manner that the whole length of the piece shall be equally acted upon by the steam, for which purpose we arrange an enclosed chamber with a sériés of parallel laths or rods at the upper part, and over and between which laths or rods the fabric is suspended loosely, so that when steam is admitted to such chamber, either from any convenient steam supply or from a boiler placed within the steam chamber, and heated by gas or otherwise, the steam finds ready and equal access to all parts of the piece.
  - " It will thus be apparent that in accordance with this invention the whole piece, being suspended loosely in the steam chamber, is free to shrink to any desired extent under the direct action of the steam.
  - “Upon removing such fabric from the steam chamber we at once roll it together whilst in its heated state, and thus permit it to dry itself, after which it will be found to be per-manently and effectually shrunk.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification, the complété
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  - spécification is illustrated by a sheet of drawings, and is published at 6d. The claims are—
  - " ist. The method of shrinking textile fabrics in the piece, as herein-before described and illustrated in the accompanying drawing.
  - " 2nd. The general construction, combination, and arrangement of apparatus for shrinking textile fabrics in the piece, as herein-before described and illustrated on the accompanying drawing.”
  - A.D. 1877, Mardi 16th.-No. 1056.
  - JACKSON, William, of Urmston, near Manchester. "Im-provements in treating Fabrics Printed with Aniline Colours.”
  - “When fabrics have been printed with certain aniline colours, and particularly with aniline blacks, it frequently if not always happens that the colours fade after a few days’ expo-sure to the atmosphère. Now, my invention consists in so treating fabrics printed with aniline colours, that the colours shall be made fast on the fabrics, and that colours that have been allowed to fade by exposure shall, to a great extent, be restored.
  - " in performing my invention immediately, or soon after the fabrics have been printed with the aniline colours in the ordinary manner, they are passed through a solution of carbonate of soda, or the ordinary soda of commerce, com-bined with chloride of sodium, or the common sait of commerce, in the proportion of six ounces of soda and one ounce of sait to one gallon of water, the fabrics are then dried, and the aniline colours are by this means effectually fastened on the fabrics.
  - “When fabrics printed with aniline colours have been allowed to fade by exposure to the atmosphère, they may be restored by passing the printed fabrics through a solution of the above description.
  - “ My invention may be modified by mixing the soda and sait with the starch or other ingrédients employed for finishing the fabrics printed with aniline colours ; or the fabrics may be printed and finished in the ordinary manner, and then passed through the solution above described to fasten or restore the aniline colours.
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- - WOODCOCK: HAWKING MACHINES. 241
  - "Having thus stated the nature of my invention and described the manner of carrying the same into practical operation, I wish it to be understood that I do not intend to limit myself to the details or proportions given, and I claim the improved mode of treating fabrics printed with aniline colours, whereby the colours are fastened or restored, as described.”
  - A.D. 1877, March 16th.—No. 1066.
  - Smith, Samuel Milne, Smith, Charles Telford, and Binns, William. "Improvements in Finishing ‘Moreens’ and Corded Fabrics.”
  - “This invention relates to a method of finishing corded fabrics in such manner that a definite pattern or design may be produced on the watered surface, in addition to the ordinary or indefinite watered pattern always produced, by pressure upon two corded fabrics placed face to face.
  - “Our improvements consist in having a raised pattern woven upon one piece and pressing the woven piece and an ordinary plain piece together, face to face in the usual manner, the resuit being that both of the pièces bear a distinct and similar impression of the pattern in addition to the ordinary watered impression.
  - “Having now described the nature and particulars of this our invention, and the manner in which the same is to be put into practice, we would have it understood that what we consider to be new, and therefore claim as our invention, is the employment in the process of finishing fabrics of two pièces, one being plain and the other having a raised woven pattern, as and for the purpose herein described.”
  - A.D. 1877, March 19th.-No. 1096.
  - WOODCOCK, Exley, and Woodcock, John William. “ Improvements in ‘Hawking Machines’ for Indigo Dyeing.”
  - “This invention has reference to a patent granted to Oldroyd, Woodcock, and Coulter, No. 3223, A.D. 1870. In the spécification of this patent mention is made of bands, cords, or tapes passing through grates and over and around rollers for the purpose of guiding the fabric into the liquor and preventing such fabric adhering to and passing around
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  - the nipping or squeezing rollers, the tendency of the fabric being to do so. In practice it is found that these bands, cords, or tapes are objectionable, not only in conséquence of the frequent breakages of the cords, which require replacing, but more especially as regards the marks or impressions they leave on the piece or fabric; when dyed the fabric is also eut or "chaved." Now, our invention is intended to dispense with these bands, cords, or tapes, and remove these defects; and the improvements consist in the use or employment of one or more rollers revolving in the same direction as the squeezing rollers, and in close proximity thereto; also of a scraper or other suitable instrument working in contact with the additional rollers, so that the fabric is guided into the liquor and effectually prevented lapping round the squeezing rollers. The squeezing rollers are brought together by springs, and we so arrange the additional rollers and scraper that they are supported by and attached to the same frame-work which supports the springs and squeezing rollers; therefore when an uneven part of the fabric is passing through the rollers the springs allow of their being pushed apart, the additional rollers and scrapers also being moved away, so that they all maintain the same relative position to each other; or instead of using another roller we may apply the scrapers direct to the squeezing rollers.”
  - The above is the provisional spécification ; the complété spécification is accompanied by one sheet of drawings and is published price 6d. Claim is for the roller and scraper.
  - 6. British and Foreign Patents, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, October 2nd to October 20th, 1877, inclusive.
  - Production of Colouring matters.
  - 2602. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, Londen, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “An improved
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PATENTS. 243
  - manufacture of red colour."—A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.
  - 3438. William Ford Stanley, of Great Turnstile, Holborn, London, for the invention of "Improvements in colours.”— Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3698. John Peter Griess, of Burton-on-Trent, Chemist, for an invention of “Improvements in obtaining colouring matters suitable for dyeing and printing.”—Dated 4th October, 1877.— Notice to proceed has been given.
  - 2614. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in the manufacture of violet colour.”—A communication to him from abroad by Johann Zeltner, of Nuremberg, Bavaria.
  - 3731. Heinrich Caro, Chemist to the Badische Aniline and Soda Works, of Mannheim, in the empire of Germany, for an invention of “Improvements in the production of coloring matters suitable for dyeing and printing.”—Dated 8th October, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3737. REINHOLD Hoffmann, of Marienberg-bei-Bensheim, in the empire of Germany, Chemist, for an invention of “Improvements in the production of colouring matters.”—Dated 9th October, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3751. Heinrich Caro, Chemist to the Badische Aniline and Soda Works, of Mannheim, in the empire of Germany, for an invention of “Improvements in the production of colouring matters suitable for dyeing and printing.”—Dated 9th October, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - Dyeing and Printing Colours, Mordanting, Preparing, Singeing, Bleaching.
  - 1648. George Cantrell Gibbs, of Brentford, in the county of Middlesex, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for dyeing and colouring felt, silk, and other textile or porous fabrics.”—Dated 27th April, 1877.—Sealed October 2oth, 1877.
  - 2197. Henry Dewhurst, of Huddersfield, in the county of York, Woollen Printer, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in mordanting or preparing woven or felted fabrics for printing.”
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- - 244 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - 3617. John IMRAY, of 20, Southampton Buildings, in the county of Middlesex, for the invention of "Improvements in the bleaching and cleansing of textile vegetable materials."—A communication to him from abroad by Paul Bayle, Merchant, and Rinaldo Pontiggia, Chemist, both of Paris, France.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3742. Thomas Holliday, of the firm of Read, Holliday, and Sons, of Huddersfield, in the county of York, Manufacturing Chemists, for an invention of “Improvements in dyeing textile fabrics black or grey colours with aniline.”—A communication to him from abroad by William Jules Samuel Grawitz, of 1, Boulevard Henry IV., Paris, in the republic of France.—Dated 9th October, 1877.—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2692. John Lightfoot, of Lowerhouse, near Burnley, in the county of Lancaster, Chemist, for an invention of “Improvements in printing and dyeing textile fabrics and yarns.”—Dated i2th October, 1870.—The ^100 stamp duty has been paid.
  - 2787. James Worrall, of Manchester, in the county of Lancaster, Dyer, for an invention of “Improved apparatus for singeing fabrics.”—Dated 22nd October, 1870.—The £10o stamp duty has been paid.
  - 3632. Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an invention of “Improvements in dyeing threads, yarns, and fabrics aniline black.” —A communication to him from abroad by William Jules Samuel Grawitz, of Paris, France.—Dated 2ist October, 1874. —The 50 stamp duty has been paid.
  - 43,208. A. F. Armand, of Morlanwelz-Mons, for “A machine for heating, boiling, bucking, and washing linen, &c.”—Dated 29th September, 1876.—Belgian patent.
  - 116,602. Kinsbourg and Robert, sen., of Paris, for “Obtaining so-called ‘indestructible aniline blue’ by the previous sizing of cotton or other vegetable substances for black aniline dyes.”— Dated 22nd January, 1877.—French patent.
  - 101. C. D. Brochocki and Co., of Paris, for “A decolouring agent called ‘Eau de javelle.’”—1 year.—Dated nth June, 1877.
  - Yarn and Wool Treatments.
  - 2208. André' Prosper Rochette, of Petit-Quevilly, près Rouen, in the republic of France, has given notice to proceed in respect
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- - BRITISH AND FOREIGN PATENTS. 245
  - of the invention of " Improvements in washing wool, and in solutions employed for this purpose."
  - 3427. John Collins, of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, Engineer, for the invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for washing, scouring, and dyeing yarns."—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3603. John Crawford Munn, of the firm of Munn and Hughes, of the city of Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “Improvements in dyeing yarns for warps."—Dated 2oth October, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 2772. John McNaught and William McNaught, junior, both of St. George’s Foundry, Rochdale, in the county of Lancaster, Engineers, for an invention of “ Improvements in machinery or apparatus for washing, opening, and drying wool and other fibrous materials, and washing yarns.”—Dated 2ist October, 1870.—The £10o stamp duty has been paid.
  - Finishing Operations, Enlarging, Plaiting, Tentering, Fold-ing, Mangling, Stretching, Spreading, Beetling, etc.
  - 1386. Fernand Dehaître, of the firm Pierron et Dehaître, of Boulevard Saint Denis, 1, at Paris, Mechanicians, for an invention of “An improved machinery or apparatus for enlarging fabrics of all kinds.”—Dated 9th April, 1877.—Sealed.
  - 1476. Newton Wilson, of High Holborn, in the county of Middle-sex, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for plaiting fabrics.”— Dated i6th April, 1877.—Sealed October 13th, 1877.
  - 2134. William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “An improved cloth-stretching or tentering machine.”—A communication to him from abroad by Claude Garnier, of Lyons, France, Cloth Dresser.
  - 2261. Ferdinand Rath, of Goldsmith Street, in the city of London, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for plaiting or folding woven or other fabrics.”
  - 3419. John Fisher, Manager of the Dundee Calendering Company, Dundee, in the county of Forfar, North Britain, has given
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  - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - notice to proceed in respect of the invention of "Improvements in mangling, calendering, or finishing linen, and other fabrics.”
  - 3451. BARKLEY Charles Wilson, of the firm of Wilson, Collett, and Company, of the city of London, Lace manufacturers, for the invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for plaiting fabrics.”—Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 3628. William Edward Newton, of the office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the county of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for the invention of “Improvements in machinery or apparatus for stretching fabrics.”—A communication to him from abroad by Alfred François Lacassaigne, of Paris, in the republic of France. —Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 2610. William Birch, of Salford, in the county of Lancaster, Machine Maker, for an invention of "Improved self-acting machinery for opening, smoothing, spreading, and guiding calico, cloth, and other fabrics for the use of bleachers, dyers, calico printers, and others.”—Dated ist October, 1870.—The £10o stamp duty has been paid.
  - 3430. Foster Connor, of Belfast, in the county of Antrim, in Ireland, for an invention of “Improvements in machinery for beetling fabrics, yarns, and fibrous substances.”—Dated 7th October, 1874.—The -50 stamp duty has been paid.
  - 32. P. Magner, of London, for “Improvements in the treatment of vegetable fibres for giving them a silky appearance and preparing them for dyeing.”—3 years.—Dated 3rd March, 1877.—Bavarian patent.
  - 190,786. Jas. Short, of East New Brunswick, N.J., for “Finishing woven fabrics.”—Application filed 17th October, 1876.—United States patent.
  - 190,548. C. C. Butterworth, of Philadelphia, Pa., assigner to himself and J. Butterworth, of the same place, for “Drying-cylinders.”—Application filed 7th April, 1877.—United States patent.
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- - THE TEXTILE COLOURIST.
  - No. 24.] DECEMBER, 1877. [Vol. IV.
  - I. Note upon the Adultération of Ground Madder and Préparations of Madder, such as Flowers of Madder and Garancine*
  - BY M. CH. BENNER.
  - THE adultération of madder by mixing it with some inert powder or other incorporated with an extract of dyewood or powerful astringent has been practised from time immémorial.
  - The spent tan of the leather works properly dried and ground is particularly well adapted for this kind of fraud. According to circumstances there is added to it extract of chestnut, dry extract of pine bark, peachwood, or logwood, and sometimes in particular cases, a mixture of the three extracts in varying proportions are added to the spent tan.
  - These frauds were extensively practised about the years 1858 to 1862, and were principally used to increase the strength of certain qualities of madder and garancines which were for exportation.
  - The Avignon Chamber of Commerce was annoyed at the existence of this state of things, and in 1859 it offered a prize of 10,000 francs for the discovery of an easy and rapid method of detecting the adultération of madder and the products made from it.
  - From the compétition for the prize there was one process,
  - * Read at the Industrial Society, Rouen, August 3rd, 1877, from the Bulletin of the Society, v., 446,
  - R
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  - that up to a certain point answered the end sought, though it did not gain the prize. This process consisted in the use of white blotting or filtering paper, which being eut into slips, was dipped into a solution of bichloride of tin at 2° B., drained, and then placed upon a piece of glass. Another slip of paper was steeped in a solution of sulphate of iron, drained, and then placed side by side with the other dipped in the bichloride of tin. A portion of the paper while still môist is dusted with the powders to be tested ; to do this evenly a pencil is employed, with which the powder is taken up and shaken off again. Upon another portion of the paper a sample of the same merchandise known to be quite free from adultération is applied in like manner, and upon a third portion is dusted some powder which the operator has himself prepared, and containing known quantities of the different adultérants likely to have been employed ; by thus operating it is possible to judge by a single trial of the purity or the greater or less degree of the adultération.
  - The action is allowed to go on for fifteen or twenty minutes. At the end of this time the under part of the glass plate is gently heated until the paper is quite dry. The powders are now shaken off the papers, and the different coloured stains produced by contact of the materials are noted.
  - Pure madder, flowers of madder, or garancine do not give any suspicions stains to these test papers ; but if there has been any, even a very small addition of any extracts, dye-wood, or astringent matter, one or other of the papers will shew the adultération, and from the number and extent of the coloured stains the amount of adultération can be roughly estimated.
  - One adultérant, however, is difficult to detect by this process, it is the green tannin from the bark of résinons woods, such as that of the pine. • It can be made évident in part by moistening the test paper with alcohol after it has been dried, and allowing it to dry again spontaneously. It will be detected by the sulphate of iron paper.
  - Since the period above referred to a better System of test-ing was worked out by three members of the Society of
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- - ADULTERATION OF GARANCINE. 249
  - Emulation in Rouen, and was described in the Bulletins of this Society for the years 1863-64.
  - Five grammes of the sample to be tested are weighed out, and 65 grammes of warm distilled water added, and afterwards 35 grammes of commercial alcohol; the mixture is stirred and left for fifteen minutes, then filtered, the filtered liquid being received in a porcelain dish. In this liquid slips of bibulous papef are dipped, so as to be impregnated as uniformly as possible with the liquid, and then they are dried in the air. It is upon these carefully dried papers that the tests are made with solutions of the following salts.
  - In making these experiments there will naturally be taken for comparison a sample of a pure colouring matter, which enables the observer to judge more certainly of the différence of the reactions which may take place:—
  - (1) Acetate of copper made by mixing 10 grammes sul-phate of copper, 10 grammes acetate of lead, and 100 grammes distilled water.
  - (2) Acid chloride of tin prepared with 20 grammes proto-chloride of tin, 5 grammes hydrochloric acid, and 100 grammes of distilled water.
  - (3) Nitrate of silver, a ten per cent, solution,
  - (4) Protosulphate of iron, a ten per cent, solution.
  - (5) Carbonate of soda, a ten per cent, solution.
  - The reagent is applied to the paper by a pencil prepared by making a small roll of a bit of white calico. A couple of marks are made upon the paper steeped in the solution, and they are left to dry during three-quarters of an hour in the shade.
  - At the end of this time the papers are compared and the purity of the samples estimated, which is easy to do from the différences observable between the effects produced upon the papers from adulterated and pure qualities.
  - In order to more certainly detect the green tannin matters which may have been added to a madder dérivative, and to operate upon solutions not so much coloured with the natural brown colouring matters of madder, the infusion may be subjected to fermentation ; a process which does interfère
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  - with the success of the trial. For this purpose 100 grammes of the madder to be tried are mixed with 375 grammes of water at 100° F. and 5 grammes of beer yeast, and the mixture left for a night in a warm place ; in the morning, 500 grammes of water at 120° F. and 200 grammes of alcohol are added and left to digest for half an hour, the liquid filtered, and the white bibulous paper soaked in the solution, which after being dried is treated with the reagents as above.
  - This second method acts perfectly well as a control upon the simpler process.
  - A third manner of testing the purity of these matters is as follows :—A slip of the bibulous paper is suspended by a pin to a cross support, and the end allowed to dip in the liquor which has been used to wet the previous test slips, and left in that position all night. The capillary attraction of the unsized paper causes the liquor to be drawn up, and the oxidation effected by the air causes the paper to assume a spécial colour, according to the nature of the foreign substance which has been added to the garancine ; in this way by repeating the trials once or twice the appearance of the paper will give the information sought, which may be con-firmed in an indisputable manner by the reagents.
  - Inert matters which may have been added are estimated by the quantitative dyeing test in the usual way.
  - As a supplément to this paper of M. Benner’s, we may transcribe from the same journal an account of a curious collection of adulterated samples of garancine which was exhibited recently at the Horticultural Exhibition at Amsterdam. These were nearly all contributed by M. Benner, and are described by M. Dépierre, along with a large and interest-ing collection of madder products, of which an account is given further on. This séries contains the following examples :—
  - No. 1. Garancine adulterated with 10 per cent, mahogany wood.
  - » 2. » „ „ 9 „ saw-dust.
  - » 3- » » „ 10 „ Brazil wood.
  - » 4. „ „ „ 50 „ spent garancine.
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  - No. 5. Garancine adulterated with 12 percent, cocoahusks.
  - 23 6. 22 27 55 10 55 yellow ochre.
  - 22 7- 22 27 55 10 55 sandal wood.
  - 2 8. 27 23 55 10 55 bran.
  - 27 9- 27 27 55 10 55 logwood.
  - 22 10. 27 27 55 10 55 red ochre.
  - 27 11. 27 22 55 10 55 ground brick.
  - 23 12. 5? 27 55 10 55 sapan wood.
  - 27 13. 22 22 55 10 55 yellow sand.
  - 27 14. 22 2 55 8 55 almond shells.
  - 27 15. 23 22 55 12 55 yellow clay.
  - 27 16. 27 2 55 1 55 logwood extract.
  - b 18. 27 55 55 10 55 dry pine extract.
  - 22 21. 27 55 55 8 55 chestnut extract.
  - 27 22. 27 55 55 5° 55 dyeing residues.
  - 27 25. 22 55 55 10 55 elm bark.
  - 27 26. 22 55 55 10 55 of spent tan cal-
  - cined with addition of 50 per cent. of sour tan from
  - the pit.
  - „ 27. Sample of spent madder dried and pressed for purposes of adultération.
  - „ 28. Compound powder for adulterating garancine. This powder contained—
  - 100 parts spent tan,
  - 5 „ extract of logwood,
  - i „ „ of peachwood,
  - 5 „ „ of chestnut.
  - There were also samples of various other substances used for the purposes of sophistication. The dates of the samples in this collection range from 1840 to 1863.
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  - M. J. DEPIERRE has given an interesting account of a large collection of madder samples which was got together by
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- - 252 THE TEXTILE CO LO URL ST.
  - some members of the Industrial Society of Rouen, and exhibited at the Horticultural Exhibition at Amsterdam this year. He gives a complété catalogue of them to the number of two hundred and thirty-four samples. We abstract some points of general interest from his report. In an album con-taining about thirty specimens of dried madder plants there were a number collected by the celebrated Linnaeus, and endorsed by him with the name in French written “Garence.” The collection of garancine dates from 1840, commencing with a sample of Lagier’s make, one of the earliest manu-facturers, and including numerous authentic specimens of all the best-known makes down to 1876. All known varieties of madder and flowers of madder, with some other products of historical interest, were to be found it this exhibit. We may enumerate a sample of colorine of Girardin and Grelley, dating 1840, which was probably the first extract of madder ever used for printing; an essence of madder, dated 1853, having fifty times the dyeing power of madder ; Kopp’s purpurine and green and yellow alizarine, dated 1859; a great variety of extracts of madder ; and a collection of various coloured madder lakes, of the manufacture of Courtois and Co.; crystallized and amorphous alizarine; and among the rarer madder products may be mentioned rubian, xantho-purpurine, oxyalizarine, hydrate of purpurine, Rosenstiehl's pseudo-purpurine, oxalic acid from madder, madder alcohol, madder gum, madder sugar, and madder camphor, as well as pectic acid from madder. The collection of adulterated garancines has been mentioned in the preceding article.
  - The whole collection (excepting the album) is, we under-stand, to remain permanently in the Muséum of Products belonging to the Industrial Society of Rouen. The commission of the Amsterdam Exhibition thought so highly of this collection as to award to it their highest recompense— the large gold medal. When we read of this and similar efforts made by the Society of Rouen and its elder sister the Society of Mulhouse, in connection with the trades which have confered prosperity upon those towns, we cannot help a feeling of regret, and indeed something approaching to shame,
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  - 253
  - that Manchester, which is a far more important centre of the same industries, should have no such society and no such collections.
  - ------•------
  - j. Note zipon the Future of Madder.* BY M. J. DEPIERRE.
  - If there is an agricultural product which more than another deserves the attention of not only the cultivator, but also the scientific man and the manufacturer, it is certainly madder.
  - The growth of the plant employs immense tracts of land, and its applications as a colouring matter are the basis of a large trade. Very few substances have given occasion to such numerous and remarkable investigations, but apart from its scientific bearings, it is very important to enquire whether the plant, which has been so eminently valuable, is destined to disappear from cultivation, or whether by the adoption of new methods or improvements it may yet be able to struggle against its newly-born and powerful rival, artificial alizarine.
  - It may be asked at the outset whether it is possible to obtain from alizarine the colours with which the manufacturer has hitherto been furnished by madder, garancine, and other like products.
  - At the présent time the answer is in the négative ; for though reds, pinks, lilacs, etc., can be, and are now produced, some other colours, such as the shades of chocolaté (pucey maroon, grenat), have not been worked, although it is known that with a mixture of purpurine and alizarine the latter colours can be easily obtained, but purpurine is not yet a commercial article, notwithstanding many attempts to manufacture it. The problem of its production may, however, be considered as solved, and within no very distant period purpurine will be an article of consumption.
  - * Bull. de la Soc. Ind. de Rouen, v., 442. Read August 3rd, 1877.
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  - It is not necessary to speak of the fastness of alizarine colours, for practical men know that they are very fast, and in some cases superior to madder colours. There is no question now about the high value of the colouring matter, for in addition to numerous improvements in its manufacture, the methods of its application upon cloth have been perfected, and its employment continues to spread.
  - The importance of the manufacture of artificial colouring matters is shewn by the following figures, which are for the production in 1875 :—
  - Germany produced value of........... 30,500,000 francs.
  - England „ „ 9,000,000 „
  - France „ „ 7,000,000 „
  - Switzerland „ „ 7,000,000 „ making a total of fifty-three millions. In 1862, some years before artificial alizarine was known, the total value of the artificial colouring matters produced was twelve millions ; a great part of the différence is due to anthracene and artificial alizarine. Thus in 1875 Germany alone produced artificial alizarine to the value of fifteen millions of francs. There are fifteen manufactories—twelve in Germany, two in Switzerland, one in England, and one in France—the whole daily production of which may be estimated at 3,500 kilogrammes, an annual turn out of about 1,000 to 1,100 tons. This production will no doubt be further augmented, especially if, as it is probable, artificial alizarine should entirely supplant madder.
  - The production of madder in Europe may be estimated at about 48,000,000 kilogrammes, which containing say i per cent, of alizarine, is equal to about 480 tons of the colouring principle.
  - Of this quantity France grows from 20,000,000 to 25,000,000 kilogrammes. To replace the whole quantity it would require an annual production of 4,800,000 kilogrammes of artificial alizarine paste containing 10 per cent, of dry matter. Suppo-sing that anthracene yields as an average 50 per cent, of its weight of dry alizarine, the annual requirements of this article would amount to about 1,000 tons ; this quantity correspond-
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  - ing to the distillation of more than 1,000,000 tons of coal. The manufacture of coal gas in France alone consumes nearly 700,000 tons, and in England nearly 2,000,000 tons. There consequently exists the means of furnishing the raw material for a considérable extension of the manufacture.
  - In 1876, Germany alone supplied nearly 4,000,000 kilogrammes of 10 per cent, alizarine paste, and each year shews a considérable increase.
  - Within the last three or four years, considérable quantities of madder were used for the préparation of extracts, but at the présent time these products have suffered a considérable réduction in value from the compétition of artificial alizarine and diminished consumption ; thus, in another way decreasing the demand for the primary material.
  - Can anything be done to change this situation ? Can it be expected that artificial alizarine will décliné from its position in course of time? To the last question a négative response may be made, for alizarine has established itself firmly in manufactures, and if madder growers do not make vigorous efforts the struggle will end in their discomfiture.
  - At the présent date (May, 1877) alizarine of 10 per cent, costs on an average 5 francs the kilogramme. For madder to compete with alizarine it is necessary that garancine should be sold at a price not exceeding i franc 60 cents the kilogramme ; to make garancine at this price, Palud’s madder should not cost more than 30 to 35 francs the 100 kilogrammes.
  - Our colleague, M. Leenhardt, member of the Chamber of Commerce of Avignon, reports from an investigation made in 1875, that if Palud madder could be sold at about 50 francs the 100 kilogrammes, the grower could still make its cultivation remunerative ; but we have seen that to compete successfully with the artificial product it must be sold at about 30 francs the 100 kilogrammes, and in this différence lies the whole question.
  - We will only briefly point out what are the conditions under which compétition is possible. To those who are interested in this serious question we would recommend the
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- - 256 THE TEXTILE COLOURIST. study of M. Leenhardt’s remarks upon it, and we may say with him that there is no chance of a successful struggle except under the following conditions :—
  - (1) Sélection of seeds and choice of soit It is known that some soil is more suited than others to the growth of madder, other conditions of care and costs being equal.
  - (2) The prudent use of manure and the more extended application of fertilising agents.
  - (3) Better methods of converting the madder into garancine and other products.
  - (4) Utilizing more completely the residues of the washing waters, etc.
  - (5) More rapid processes of manufacture. By the présent methods there is considérable loss which could be avoided.
  - (6) Immédiate grinding of the roots. The roots generally deteriorate by storing, while the powder of the same roots increase in value.
  - (7) Lastly, an intelligent application of mechanical and Chemical aids which are available.
  - By these means alone can the future prospects of madder be saved from great danger, but it will always require constant and earnest efforts to enable the natural product to struggle without disadvantage against the artificial 011e.
  - 4. Note on the Steaming ApparaUts of M. D. Sijferlen.
  - IN the Bulletin of the Industrial Society of Mulhouse for November, 1877, M. Sifferlen, manager of an important print-works in Moscow, describes some modifications introduced by him into steaming arrangements. These improvements date from 1872, in which year the author deposited a sealed description of them, illustrated by drawings, in the archives of the Mulhouse Society. He has recently asked that this description should be opened, and submitted to the examination of the proper sections. This has been done, and all the
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- - SIFFERLEN^S STEAMING APPARATUS. 257 documents and drawings published along with a report by M. Prud’homme.
  - The first is a letter from M. Sifferlen to the President of the Society, in which he States the utility of his improvements as follows :—
  - (i) The dispensing with greys and other accessories used in the ordinary methods of steaming by suspending the pièces, fold by fold, from separated points, so as to leave a space between each fold.
  - (2) To prevent condensation of steam upon the métal in contact with the pièces, I heat the hook or point carriers by a tube through which steam is passed.
  - (3) Stains by drops of water from the upper part of the steaming box are prevented by a double cover heated by steam.
  - (4) Lastly, to avoid the loss of time in unhooking the steamed goods, I have invented an arrangement by which the whole of the pièces are unhooked instantaneously.
  - The next document is an explanation of the arrangement, referring to the drawings, which may be condensed a follows:— The roof of the steaming box is fiat, and essentially a steam chest, through which a small current of steam is kept passing. The steam is introduced into the box itself by a large pipe at the bottom bored with holes, above which is a wooden floor perforated in all directions. To secure an equal distribution of the steam, each side of the box is provided with three open-ings, which are connected by pipes leading into one blow-off pipe. This appeared necessary to obtain a regular displacement of the steam and an equable amount of steaming ; the pièces not changing their position, as in the ordinary arrangements during the steaming, rendered this précaution more important.
  - A carriage bears a frame or square formed by two iron pipes, tinned 011 the outsides, and joined by two iron crossbars. Upon these pipes are the rings carrying the points or hooks, of which there are about four hundred upon each pipe. At one of the extremities a lever is placed, which is part of the unhooking arrangements.
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  - The hooking-on is done in the same way as in the arrangement known, in making up, as the rectometer, with this différence, that two boys bring up the rings and arrange the folds as a third workman hooks on the cloth. For 1,000 métrés of cloth this operation requires thirty-five to forty minutes.
  - The hooking being finished, the four sides are covered with wrapping, which is fixed to the points by a brush ; then above and below the pièces are covered with cloth stitched on a wooden frame. If the pièces are not completely surrounded they will not be evenly steamed.
  - To prevent condensation of steam upon the ring points, the tubes which carry them are heated by steam before the wagon is run into the steaming box. This is easily done by connecting them for a few minutes with a steam pipe.
  - When the pièces are steamed and the wagon run out, the coverings are removed, and then by a movement of the levers which turn the carrying tubes of the ring points partly round inwards the pièces all fall at once to the ground.
  - While one lot of pièces is being steamed another lot is being prepared on another wagon, so that no time is lost.
  - The explanation seems complicated, but the resuit is that double the amount of work can be got through in a day than was possible with the old apparatus.
  - The third document is a report by M. Prud’homme upon M. Sifferlen’s communication, which we reproduce with slight abridgment.
  - " The steaming apparatus most generally employed at présent* consists of a vertical vat, cylindrical or rectangular, in wood, masonry, or métal. The steam is admitted by a sort of watering-pot rose between double bottoms, covered over by a diaphragm of wrappering cloth. These vats are provided with a fiat cover, or an angle cover, to lead off the water condensed. The vat is worked from the top ; the pièces are not thrown in any way, as that would lead to not
  - * That is in France, and principally in Alsace. In England such a steaming arrangement could hardly be found.—Ed.
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  - only marking off, but to an irregular action of the steam. The most ordinary method consists in rolling them up with a grey piece, so as to prevent chance of marking off. The roll thus obtained is hung on an angular roller fixed on the upper part of the vat, which is connected with a movement outside, by which the roller can be turned round, and change the position of the pièces.
  - " Occassionally for certain articles the goods to be steamed are hooked upon a spiral frame, such as is used in indigo dyeing, or are suspended vertically in alternate folds to the opposite sides of a rectangular frame. It has been recently proposed to roll the pièces round a cylinder of wire gauze.
  - " It can be seen at a glance this method of working from the top requires a considérable amount of time and labour. In M. Sifferlen’s apparatus the pièces are introduced by a wagon, the entrance is at one of the vertical sides of the box, and consists of a two-leaved door, which is secured in its place by proper means. The general arrangement is not new ; it is described in Persoz (Edit. 1846) as having origi-nated in England. The System of suspending the pièces consists in hooking them on rings which slide upon an iron tube and capable of turning with it. To prevent condensation upon the metallic parts of the apparatus they, being hollow, are warmed by passing steam through them before going into the steaming box. The use of greys is unnecessary, it suffices to surround the goods with wrapping. The point upon which the goods are hooked by the selvage is horizontal, and fixed to a vertical piece which is part of the ring. These hooking rings slide, but cannot turn round upon the bar or tube, so that if a motion of turning is given to the supporting tube all the rings turn at the same time, the points corne down and the goods fall off them by their own weight. This ingenious arrangement is one of the most interesting in connection with the apparatus.
  - “According to information communicated by M. Sifferlen, he can steam 20 pièces of 45 mètres at one time ; in an ordinary steaming vat with a square section of 1 m. 60 about, there can be steamed 6 pièces each of 100 métrés, which
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  - comparing the section is about the same resuit. As to the manipulations preceding the steaming, it takes thirty to thirty-five minutes in M. Sifferlen’s arrangement to hook on 900 metres ; the rolling-on of 600 metres by the old process takes at least twenty minutes.
  - " The kind of steaming box described by M. Sifferlen is very little known in this district.”
  - Bismarck Brown on Wool, Light Shade.—One-half per cent, of the weight of the wool of good Bismarck brown is required to give a dark shade, and less for lighter colours ; the neces-sary quantity is dissolved in warm water and filtered, then added to the dye water, which is heated to about 170° F., and contains about i 1b. glauber salts (sulphate of soda) to 10 1b. of wool to be dyed; the wool is entered and the liquor slowly brought up to the boil.
  - lodine or Methyl Green for Printing on Cotton.—A thicken-ing is made from starch along with a little tragacanth, and a standard liquor made by dissolving the green in water along with about twice ics weight of oxalic acid, and adding four times its weight of tannin, with a little acetic acid. The strength of the standard and the proportion to be added to the thickening dépend entirely upon the quality of the green and the shade of colour required ; fix by steaming.
  - Mordant for Alkali Bine on Cotton.—One pound of olive oil mixed with 10 oz. of strong sulphuric acid, stir well up for some time, and add one pound methylated spirit. Dilute with hot water, and add 3 oz. of bichloride of tin. In mor-danting mix this compound with the requisite amount of water at about 100° F., and work the cotton in for one hour ; the above quantifies being adapted for 20 Ibs. cotton yarn. Dye as usual.
  - Change of Cotton into GLicose and Dextrine.—Kosmann, in studying the action of oxidizing agents upon glycérine and
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  - other organic matters, has found that pure cotton in contact with aqueous solution of permanganate of potash is partially transformed into glucose and dextrine ; bichromate of potash alone or mixed with acetic acid has a similar action. By leaving cotton in contact with iron and water for thirty-one days, this observer found that a portion of the cellulose was changed into glucose and dextrine, besides which there was a certain amount of a gummy matter formed, which did not become blue with iodine, but was changed into glucose by the action of boiling sulphuric acid. Solution of bleaching powder, acting upon cotton until it was dissolved, yielded glucose, dextrine, and formic acid combined with lime.—Bull, de la Soc. Chem., October §th, 1877.
  - Prussian Blue on Wool and Silk.—In a description of Bang’s French patent it is said the aim of the process is to use up almost completely the total quantity of cyanogen contained in the prussiate in the formation of the blue colour, and thus avoid the dangerous émanations of prussic-acid vapour. For this purpose the patentée uses a mixture of red prussiate and per-salt of iron, équivalent to équivalent, or in various proportions according to the shade of colour required. It is therefore, he says, in reality a ferricyanide of peroxide of iron which he employs ; the sait is perfectly soluble, fixes gradually upon the wool or silk, and is changed by the heat of dyeing into an insoluble colour ; at the same time the yield of colour is nearly double of that obtained from prussiate used in the ordinary way.—Mon. de la Teinture, October gth, 1877.
  - Colouring Matter from Tar.—A German manufacturing company (Chemische fabrik echter farben Actien Gesselschaft) has patented in France a new colouring matter obtained by separating from tar the heavy oils, and especially those which have a yellowish and turbid appearance, for these contain the colouring matter in question. Caustic potash or other alkali is used to isolate it, and then the oils are combined with potash and quick-lime, and the dry mass strongly pressed to separate the insoluble oleate of lime. The liquid, which is a mixture of oil and alkali, is concentrated and exposed to the
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  - air supported on cloths to oxidize it, or until it becomes distinctly blue. The colouring matter is afterwards extracted and purified by repeated solution in acids and précipitation by alkalies ; the product is a violet colour, but is a base which can be modified by suitable reagents so as to yield many kinds of colours.—Mon. de la Teinture, October ^th, 1877.
  - Albumin of Commerce.—Under this title Messrs. Charles T. Kingzett, F.C.S., and M. Zingler communicated a paper to the recent Pharmaceutical Conférence describing their patent for preparing blood albumen, the spécification of which appeared in a late number of the Textile Colourist. The paper is printed in the Pharmaceutical Journal of September 29th, 1877, P- 253, and commences as follows :—“As is well known, albumin is largely employed for fixing colours on cotton goods, such colours for instance, as madder red and indigo blue, which are almost the only fast colours possessed by dyers. For fixing these and other colours egg albumin is well adapted,” etc. This is an extremely bad shot on the part of the learned authors of the paper, for madder red and indigo blue are precisely the colours for which albumen is never used, and never has been used.
  - 5. British and Foreign Patents, from the Commissioners of Patents Journal, October goth, 1877, to November 2grd, 1877, inclusive.
  - Colouring Matters.
  - 3731. Heinrich Caro, Chemist to the Badische Aniline and Soda Works, of Mannheim, in the empire of Germany, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of "Improvements in the production of colouring matters suitable for dyeing and printing."
  - 3737. Reinhold Hoffmann, of Marienberg-bei-Bensheim, in the empire of Germany, Chemist, has given notice to proceed in
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  - respect of the invention of " Improvements in the production of colouring matters.”
  - .3742. Thomas Holliday, of the firm of Read, Holliday, and Sons, of Huddersfield, in the county of York, Manufacturing Chemists, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in dyeing textile fibres black or grey colours with aniline.”—A communication to him from abroad by William Jules Samuel Grawitz, of 1, Boulevard Henry IV., Paris, in the republic of France.
  - 3751. HEINRICH Caro, Chemist to the Badische Aniline and Soda Works, of Mannheim, in the empire of Germany, has given notice to proceed in respect of the invention of “Improvements in the production of colouring matters suitable for dyeing and printing.”
  - 3757. MAXIMILIAN Zingler, of 19, Buckland Crescent, Belsize Park, in the county of Middlesex, for an invention of " Improvements in treating aniline and other dyes to préparé them for use in dyeing, printing, and colouring.”—Dated 3oth October, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 117,768. Mouzin, of Tergnier, for “Obtaining red and black colours from the raw black ashes or red ashes of alum-works.”— Dated 4th April, 1877.—French patent.
  - 1. J. Zeltner, of Nürnberg, for " Obtaining violet ultramarine.”— Dated 17th September, 1877. German patent.
  - Dyeing, Printing, Singeing, Drying.
  - 4101. Georges Chalamel, of the firm Alfred Chalamel et Ce., of Puteaux (Seine), Manufacturer, for an invention of “An im-proved apparatus for dyeing, with preserved parts, wool and other fibrous substances.”—Dated 5th November, 1877.— Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 1900. P. Barthel, of Frankfort-on-the-Maine, for A. A. Plantrou, jnr., of Rheims, for “Scouring and cleaning textiles.”—Dated i8th October, 1877.—German patent.
  - 117,632 David, for “A machine for embossing and printing ribbon and plain velvet stuffs in varions colours at once.”—Dated 24th March, 1877.—French patent.
  - 117,762. Vigne', sen. and jun., for “Obtaining embossed velvet with designs of various colours.”—Dated 4th April, 1877.— French patent.
  - S
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  - 117,838. WINTER, for "Improvements in producing photographie pictures on tissues.”—Dated 31st March, 1877.—French patent.
  - 193,158. William J. S. Grawitz, of Paris, France, for " Dyeing yarns and fabrics in aniline-black."—Patented in England, 2ist October, 1874, for fourteen years.—Application filed 13th March, 1877.—United States patent.
  - 3636. Samuel Knowles, of Tottington, near Bury, in the county of Lancaster, Bleacher and Calico Printer, and James Kay, of Bury aforesaid, Engineer, for an invention of “Improvements in apparatus for drying yarns, woven fabrics, paper, and other materials."—Dated 22nd October, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - 3812. William Sumner, of Salford, in the county of Lancaster, and Eric Hugo Waldenstrom, of the se me place, Engineers, for an invention of " Improvements in the manufacture of copper singe plates.”—Dated 4th November, 1874.—This patent has become void.
  - Wool Treatments.
  - 2208. André Prosper Rochette, of Petit-Quevilly, près Rouen, in the republic of France, for an invention of " Improvements in washing wool, and in solutions employed for this purpose.”— Dated 6th June, 1877.—Sealed November 2nd, 1877.
  - 4227. Walter Alfred Barlow, of 6, St. Paul’s Churchyard, London, Patent Agent and Engineer, for an invention of “ Improvements in means and apparatus for removing or destroying vegetable matters from or contained in wool, woollen rags, or woollen cloth.”—A communication to him from abroad by C. F. Gademann, Manufacturer, of Biebrich-on-the-Rhine.”—Dated i2th November, 1877. ,
  - 4095. John Clough, of the Manchester Road, Bradford, in the county of York, for an invention of " Improvements in apparatus employed in in the washing and cleansing of wool and other fibres.”—Dated 3oth November, 1874.—The 50 stamp duty has been paid.
  - 117,608. Cazanave, for " Burring wool and removing ligneous substances therefrom.”—Dated 19th March, 1877.—French patent.
  - 117,726. Jourdan, of Balan, for “Cleansing wool by means of anhydrous gas.”—Dated 29th March, 1877.—French patent.
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  - 2723. C. L. Schultze, of Berlin, for "Obtaining greenish blue on wool."—Dated 2nd October, 1877.—German patent.
  - Yarn Treatments.
  - 4149. Andrew Mungall, Manager, Dalmarnock Dye Works, Glasgow, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for the invention of " Improvements in the separating or splitting of warp yarn into single chains or webs after dyeing, washing, or bleach-ing, and in the machinery or apparatus employed therefor.”— Provisional protection has been granted.
  - 4377. Thomas Paterson Miller, of the Cambuslang Dye Works, in the county of Lanark, North Britain, for an invention of “Improvements in apparatus for dyeing yarn or thread.”— Dated 2ist November, 1877.
  - 1847. O. Greiner, of Berlin, for “A wringing machine for yarn in skeins."—Dated 24th September, 1877.—German patent.
  - 869. C. G. Haubold, jr., of Chemnitz, for “Machines for dyeing and impregnating yarn in skeins.”—Dated 17th September, 1877.—German patent.
  - Finishing Operations.
  - 1994. William Walton URQUHART and Joseph Lindsay, both of Dundee, in the county of Forfar, North Britain, Engineers, for an invention of " Improvements in machinery or apparatus for treating or finishing woven fabrics.”—Dated 22nd May, 1877.— Sealed November i6th, 1877.
  - 2239. Gustave Hertzog, of Reims, France, Mechanican, for an invention of " Improvements in tenter-hooks or grippers for self-acting or other stretching machines for textile fabrics.”— Dated 8th June, 1877.—Sealed November 22nd, 1877.
  - 4368. William Birch, of Salford, in the county of Lancaster, Machinist, for an invention of " Improvements in machinery for guiding, opening, and stretching fabrics during bleaching, printing, or other manipulations.”—Dated 2ist November, 1877.
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